2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement (4 Viewers)

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I’m sure it’s fine. If it was me, I’d probably swap it out and keep the aftermarket one as a spare. Then again, I’m sure there are tons of Toyotas rolling with aftermarket radiators that are fine. I’ve used lots of aftermarket parts on other vehicles over the years, and most were fine. I just don’t want to chance getting stranded in the middle of nowhere and OEM parts give me peace of mind.
 
I’m sure it’s fine. If it was me, I’d probably swap it out and keep the aftermarket one as a spare. Then again, I’m sure there are tons of Toyotas rolling with aftermarket radiators that are fine. I’ve used lots of aftermarket parts on other vehicles over the years, and most were fine. I just don’t want to chance getting stranded in the middle of nowhere and OEM parts give me peace of mind.
One of the big selling points for me when I bought my used LX was that the dealer had replaced the radiator with OEM less than 1 year prior to my purchase. Well it was leaking when I got it home but I didn’t notice it until just after the 1-year warranty.
Tossed an aftermarket Koyo in there and it’s been fine so far.
 
Can you post a pic. Is the rad cap oem?

PXL_20210502_160730472.jpg
PXL_20210501_213813425.jpg
PXL_20210501_213806577.jpg


The cap looks OEM. As you can see the radiator itself is unmarked where there would be the sticker and no raised or embossed letters on the unit itself either.

The failure mode documented in this thread is likely unique to the original OEM unit. Unlikely yours will fail in the same way.

Which is what would concern me long term. A low quality radiator might just let go entirely, and probably isn’t built to toyota OEM standards so who knows how far it will go anyway.

For me picking a mileage number and having a new OEM unit installed before then would be my strategy.. if 50k is yours that sounds reasonable.

I think that's what I'll do. I'm not overtly concerned about it right now but I'll keep an eye on it. I'm hoping it'll last another 50k miles which would bring it right up to the big 120k mi maintenance and change it to OEM. If it's still good by then at least I'll have a spare radiator.

A Toyota dealer installed an aftermarket radiator?

Looks like it. Peculiar to say the least.
 
FWIW, I had a dealer replace my rad as part of an accident repair through insurance. The invoice and part number was OEM but the actual rad was not. Kind pissed about that but didn’t notice until I was doing some hose replacements. The aftermarket rad was leaking at the bottom after only 25k miles. The leak is in the AL core, not the plastic. I have just replaced it with OEM.

Given the mild PITA it is to replace (tranny cooler being the part that is a little painful if you loose tranny fluid), I’d keep the non OEM in there until it leaks and just keep an eye on it with an OEM one on the shelf ready to go.
 
Toyota corporate would very much frown on this. Dealers have been scolded for buying Denso, Aisin, parts to save money and make more on customers. I can't even imagine what they'd say having a dealer buying and installing an OE radiator.
 
It’s complicated bu
Toyota corporate would very much frown on this. Dealers have been scolded for buying Denso, Aisin, parts to save money and make more on customers. I can't even imagine what they'd say having a dealer buying and installing an OE radiator.
It’s complicated by the fact that the body shop was the repair which is a separate ownership from the Toyota dealer next door who did the engine work for the body shop. It’s also 2 years later. I may call the body shop and at least yell at them on the phone. They did work with me to get the TJM bumper rather than OEM as part of the repair. I may just let it go.
 
A Toyota dealer installed an aftermarket radiator?
I believe it. The dealer here in Lansing uses aftermarket all the time. The Carquest parts truck comes and goes frequently. I caught them having installed Carquest shocks on my 80 and they used all aftermarket filters on my 200. A friend had aftermarket parts on his 4.7 Tundra for the timing belt work. I of course no longer use that dealer. Some dealers will do anything to increase profit and it’s an EXTREMELY rare customer who will notice.
 
View attachment 2662935View attachment 2662936View attachment 2662937

The cap looks OEM. As you can see the radiator itself is unmarked where there would be the sticker and no raised or embossed letters on the unit itself either.



I think that's what I'll do. I'm not overtly concerned about it right now but I'll keep an eye on it. I'm hoping it'll last another 50k miles which would bring it right up to the big 120k mi maintenance and change it to OEM. If it's still good by then at least I'll have a spare radiator.



Looks like it. Peculiar to say the least.
That is not the new version. It will likely have the same issues as the old one. Should be good for 50-80K at least though.
 
After careful consideration, I choose to repair the leak in my top radiator tank yesterday. The logic was actually simple considering that my LX570 is 12 years old, has 155k on the clock, and was driven only 5k miles last year. I know my decision is not consistent with others on this thread. Please no cancel culture.

Logic? I keep up on the vehicle maintenance and have been periodically monitoring for the inevitable leak for years (and it just started leaking). I can continue to monitor the repair in the same manner. If the repair does not work or subsequently fails, I'll replace the radiator.

I selected a repair method that was previously mentioned in this thread as being a potential. The repair is not a patch. It is literally welding of the engineered polymer used on the radiators. There are several videos available that demonstrate the repair method. This is the one that convinced me to give it a shot (starting a 1:42):

Polyvance Plastic Radiator Repair

I practiced on a plastic bucket to gain some experience. While the plastic on the bucket had a different melting temperature, the practice provided me the confidence to proceed. I followed the process used on the video (including the heat gun pre-heat). It went well; the only things I questioned was when to stop welding. Pleased to share it was a success. It's not pretty, but it is functional. The post maintenance test run was signed off as satisfactory. Here's the before and after:
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This was my first time working with a Polyvance product and frankly, I'm impressed. They've got a bunch of other products available for other applications (dashboards, bumpers, broken tabs, etc) that I'll certainly consider the next time I have a plastic related issue. The key is making sure you use the correct welding rod for the material being repaired.

I purchased the product via Amazon (Polyvance Plastic Radiator Tank Repair Kit).

The monitoring has commenced. I'll update this post periodically with the results.
 
After careful consideration, I choose to repair the leak in my top radiator tank yesterday. The logic was actually simple considering that my LX570 is 12 years old, has 155k on the clock, and was driven only 5k miles last year. I know my decision is not consistent with others on this thread. Please no cancel culture.

Logic? I keep up on the vehicle maintenance and have been periodically monitoring for the inevitable leak for years (and it just started leaking). I can continue to monitor the repair in the same manner. If the repair does not work or subsequently fails, I'll replace the radiator.

I selected a repair method that was previously mentioned in this thread as being a potential. The repair is not a patch. It is literally welding of the engineered polymer used on the radiators. There are several videos available that demonstrate the repair method. This is the one that convinced me to give it a shot (starting a 1:42):

Polyvance Plastic Radiator Repair

I practiced on a plastic bucket to gain some experience. While the plastic on the bucket had a different melting temperature, the practice provided me the confidence to proceed. I followed the process used on the video (including the heat gun pre-heat). It went well; the only things I questioned was when to stop welding. Pleased to share it was a success. It's not pretty, but it is functional. The post maintenance test run was signed off as satisfactory. Here's the before and after:
zkgU0AAdhKtXJ4tcWVtjaUOXbAfCWQIrp36u9Z0CDubfBjO-ETA41NQy5U58nycwNKwrP8UCb7TZhxDM5NTWHdi8n84GYYKiTEQeXJpo7eOV_h09XauLlnCZqgGeRP2a-WY94sGLeL4nm-c7Ifqk_LgIORs2CGZ9DV_adnP4B4QszRCu58a5RoJ5D5Z_5mDZPaZPc13zBmlgq-58Ao3lX15yLFRj4mrt0UjS6vD8e_VIb9XwDwiZJui75mQFfRgNIyyjrRsZzee9ARIe8GgwpCneEGS77EMIy-u-Bi1pJzFcj7ptn-OiKgEFk4VWdktk4Fp6VnKkLhUoXmNayrSmQIfQYEo9qgVCBB1eQHsp-CBo_gqsYFsMobgOrQLi5yPOj1zu1C3v8ytBsDsgPbBWjH563VFWxzp6E2mna_UJda6PnImZjUAALRfsvlOUzCtze5Pt9kWzG1m5f4mmhnqk5U64tI0VdMvGXkBErjlm8lYyBV5QlDYOJb_sPVMJQDHKGKk83po7rvTunUdYFBnf3j5w9MMMa6XHNb_w4LDRN1lLXUSLyr82-pP6eKS3pPnfnLzp0HQdmYUHb2UbXpa3e5jpBPMPwHBBcGaSdiE0yt9zfaqGHes4F9ShxrM9L2xQYsuwsnfZu_5kHf9G1ZWIxOLe3v0SWjGnNbMDn_YOwLppFn9YP1Fam7BnFtq_PGA0sW7OXnD935VdnMw5bEcyxg08=w1666-h937-no

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This was my first time working with a Polyvance product and frankly, I'm impressed. They've got a bunch of other products available for other applications (dashboards, bumpers, broken tabs, etc) that I'll certainly consider the next time I have a plastic related issue. The key is making sure you use the correct welding rod for the material being repaired.

I purchased the product via Amazon (Polyvance Plastic Radiator Tank Repair Kit).

The monitoring has commenced. I'll update this post periodically with the results.

I was one of the folks advocating the JB Weld + fiberglass method. Although I've used this with great success in other applications, I believe for this radiator, a well executed plastic weld is probably a better choice, especially if the cracking has already begun (weld+fiber might be better/easier as preventative). Either way, thanks very much for sharing! Looks like a great job that should hold up!
 
How long do I have? Yellow marks are from last summer. Crack is definitely spreading. This is on my ‘10. Original radiator. 167k miles. Thanks!

A6186CD2-6CFF-481F-A9C5-DFA6CE73B385.jpeg
 
How long do I have? Yellow marks are from last summer. Crack is definitely spreading. This is on my ‘10. Original radiator. 167k miles. Thanks!

View attachment 2702050
That’s what mine looked like when I glued it. Hasn’t exploded yet. . .
 
How long do I have? Yellow marks are from last summer. Crack is definitely spreading. This is on my ‘10. Original radiator. 167k miles. Thanks!

View attachment 2702050
Hard to say. Could be a ticking time bomb, esp since it's still the original. Mine exploded around 110k IIRC.

At 167k miles, if you are intending on keeping the truck for a long time, I would shop around and replace it for peace of mind. And also gives you a chance to compare prices without having to worry about replacing it last minute.
 
After having my LC200 listed for sale I decided to pull it off the market. So glad I did because just last week the radiator started leaking. I would have felt horrible if this happened to the new owner.

Last year I noticed the notorious hair line crack, but it was still holding together so I patched it up with some stuff I found online. It actually held up for over a year but this summer heat took it's toll on it. I've ordered a new radiator from Toyota and will change it out myself when it comes in.

LC200.jpg


LC200 1.jpg
 
I own a 2008 and my radiator lasted for 184k before I replaced it. It only had the hairline crack before I replaced it. I also replaced the water pump and hoses also.
 
I completed my replacement yesterday. I decided to only replace the radiator at this time. Overall, it wasn't a hard job. I followed instructions from a video I found on youtube and it saved me a lot of time. No need to remove the bumper.
 
I completed my replacement yesterday. I decided to only replace the radiator at this time. Overall, it wasn't a hard job. I followed instructions from a video I found on youtube and it saved me a lot of time. No need to remove the bumper.
Have the link handy?
 

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