2007 GX 470 200k - original transmission fluid (1 Viewer)

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Jun 6, 2020
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Location
Birmingham, AL
I have owned this vehicle for 15 years transmission is working perfectly; however wondering if I should do a drain and refill of transmission fluid. I know not to flush a transmission with high mileage but Im wondering is it worth it to have someone simply drain and refill or just let sleeping dogs lie. Car runs great and just spent 2k on AC repair so would like to keep it a while longer. Thanks
 
I would 100% not flush it. But a fluid exchange should be nice for it.

I know it's double for you, but I was at like 110k miles on original fluid and was wondering if I should exchange it or leave it alone. I did an exchange and it helped it shift just a bit more smoothly than it had before.
 
ATF is not a lifetime fluid regardless of what Toyota Lexus claims. I just did a 4quart exchange via the trans cooler lines at 150k. ATF had never been changed and was very black, basically looked like used motor oil. GX470 still shifts great. I plan to do a full exchange at 155k. I'd definitely do it if I were you
 
There are lots of competing theories on this. Some folks say it's best to leave a sleeping dog lie on a high-mileage transmission, others say change it. I changed mine at 135K or so and the fluid wasn't totally cooked and it's been fine since. It's probably a bit of a dice roll. In my opinion, if the transmission fails right after a fluid change it was going to fail anyway (given that the friction clutch particles in the fluid are keeping it from slipping), but you would have to then replace it sooner than if you had not changed the fluid.

Another option would be to extract a small sample of fluid and send it to Blackstone for an analysis, prior to changing. If the fluid is terrible and contaminated with metals/clutch material, keep it in and start saving for a reman A750F. If it's not loaded up with junk and is maybe a bit worn, change it.
 
When i bought my 06 the trans fluid was original at 236k. I have slowly but surely been replacing the fluid via drain and fills with Valvoline MaxxLife. It stays cooler according to the ScanGuage and performace is great. I see no reason to not start drain and fills at regular short intervals until you start seeing clean fluid on your drains. Once you do you can extend that interval.
 
I also used Valvoline Max Life in mine and my friend's Tundra. It's 1/4 the cost of Toyota WS, is designed for high-mileage transmissions, and has been a great fluid (also full synthetic which WS is not) - so another vote from me as well.
 
I am thinking I am going to have to do this sooner than later. I think I saw some dirt in the fluid? Some shifts are also not the smoothest it has ever been. Not sure, but I will update once it is done and tell everyone how it feels after.
 
I don't trust myself or have the setup to do partial drain and refills so I would have to take it to a shop and have them pump out the old and put in the new. If that is my only option am I better of just leaving it alone?
 
The partial drain/fills are easy - just remove the drain plug, let the ~4 quarts drain back in, and refill ~4 quarts into the plug at the back of a transmission. You can do it in your driveway without jacking up the GX. However it's not my favorite way to do it as 1) you co-mingle fresh new fluid with old fluid and 2) the pan isn't dropped and junk isn't cleaned out of it. It's like taking a shower and putting dirty clothes back on. But I think it's still better than leaving old fluid in there.

The better way is a full fluid exchange with a pan drop, which is only slightly more difficult (albeit messy). This is done from from the trans cooler in front of the radiator, along with a pan drop/clean and filter change. However I would absolutely not give this to just any shop - they need to understand how to do it properly (drop pan, clean pan, replace filter, refill pan, start engine and pump out 2 quarts from cooler while a helper runs the trans thru all gears, stop engine, add 2 quarts back in, and repeat til clean fluid comes out of the trans cooler). If you don't have a shop willing to take the time to do it right, find a friend willing to help you. It's maybe 2-3 hours of work and requires zero special tools.

As far as the overall yes/no - up to you. Only bad things can happen by running your trans on old fluid. If the trans is already past the point of no return then you'll need a new one anyway - depends on your desire the keep the rig and ability to have $4-5K set aside for a reman Toyota trans and replacement. The Blackstone test would help give you some certainty on how the trans is doing overall.
 
I would change the fluid. It’s very rare for a transmission to stop working after service. Prolonging the life of the transmission either way. Spend the money and have it done at the dealer or a well known import shop if needed. Don’t trust those jiffy lube masters!
 
I flushed in mine around 150k and didn't have any problems (now at ~177k). I monitored the temperatures using a Scangauge before and after... Before the flush, I would regularly hit 215+ degrees on mountain climbs. After the flush, I barely hit 200 unless it's very, very hot outside. Like @Gxunit201, my oil fluid was black and cooked.

+1 for Vavoline Maxx Life

I used this method: GX470 Trans Fluid Drain & Fill Tips/Write-up - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/gx470-trans-fluid-drain-fill-tips-write-up.1263824/#post-14573870

If you're apprehensive about it, I suggest following @Rednexus 's advice and send off a sample to Blackstone Labs.
 
I did the method Red mentioned above when I upgraded my transmission cooler. Super easy, but yes, it can be messy.
 
I did the full exchange (around 16 qts) via the cooler lines as well with Amsoil at 180k. Didn't drop the pan, as there seemed to be conflicting messages regarding doing that or not. Trans shifted much smoother after for sure. No issues since and have put 10k more miles on her. Would definitely recommend doing it! Helps to have another person (wife helped me) to start and stop the vehicle.
 
I'm also on the drain and refill bandwagon. I also own an 80 series and it's standard practice for those. I use an IR thermometer to get my
temps. per FSM. Valvoline Maxlife ATF also, No regrets, Good luck.
 
The partial drain/fills are easy - just remove the drain plug, let the ~4 quarts drain back in, and refill ~4 quarts into the plug at the back of a transmission. You can do it in your driveway without jacking up the GX. However it's not my favorite way to do it as 1) you co-mingle fresh new fluid with old fluid and 2) the pan isn't dropped and junk isn't cleaned out of it. It's like taking a shower and putting dirty clothes back on. But I think it's still better than leaving old fluid in there.

The better way is a full fluid exchange with a pan drop, which is only slightly more difficult (albeit messy). This is done from from the trans cooler in front of the radiator, along with a pan drop/clean and filter change. However I would absolutely not give this to just any shop - they need to understand how to do it properly (drop pan, clean pan, replace filter, refill pan, start engine and pump out 2 quarts from cooler while a helper runs the trans thru all gears, stop engine, add 2 quarts back in, and repeat til clean fluid comes out of the trans cooler). If you don't have a shop willing to take the time to do it right, find a friend willing to help you. It's maybe 2-3 hours of work and requires zero special tools.

As far as the overall yes/no - up to you. Only bad things can happen by running your trans on old fluid. If the trans is already past the point of no return then you'll need a new one anyway - depends on your desire the keep the rig and ability to have $4-5K set aside for a reman Toyota trans and replacement. The Blackstone test would help give you some certainty on how the trans is doing overall.
What do you do when 1 or more of those rusty 6mm bolts Breaks off. Little Job Turns into a Big Job. Refill thru the Cooler and that will never Happen. Still spray the Bolts on Pan with Fluid Film.
 
What do you do when 1 or more of those rusty 6mm bolts Breaks off. Little Job Turns into a Big Job. Refill thru the Cooler and that will never Happen. Still spray the Bolts on Pan with Fluid Film.
I've pulled the pans on my A750F and on a friend's A340F and didn't have any bolts break off on either. I'm halfway between the Rust Belt and the South, so neither rig was particularly rusty. Both pans had quite a bit of gunk in the bottom. Putting in new fluid without dropping the pan will result in some contamination of the new fluid.
 
I've never personally touched the pan for fear of running into issues or the job taking longer than expected on a daily needed vehicle. Just did a half system drain and fill through the cooler only up front. Then did that one more time about a year and 10k miles later. Plan to eventually get there and do the full pan drop and filter change down the road when the car can be down for a few days and a couple of other things can be done.

For someone with limited space, time, and tools an exchange through the cooler can be an easy to refresh the fluid. As good as a full pan drop and filter change, definitely not but certainly better than 200K+ mile fluid IMO
 
I've pulled the pans on my A750F and on a friend's A340F and didn't have any bolts break off on either. I'm halfway between the Rust Belt and the South, so neither rig was particularly rusty. Both pans had quite a bit of gunk in the bottom. Putting in new fluid without dropping the pan will result in some contamination of the new fluid.
How are you Emptying the Torque Converter to Avoid Contamination? Dilution>Flush all Day
 
200K Miles - likely Original Oil - 3 Qts pumped out by Tranny

Replaced Same Amount.

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