2006 Transmission Fluid Service

[jerryb]

i looked up the parts before to give it a shot. There's something about the tube as it travels up the side. It seemed doable.
where does the guide penetrate?
CYLINDER BLOCK | LAND CRUISER 100 UZJ100 UZJ100L-GNAEKA | Toyota | Genuine Parts Catalogs | PartSouq Auto Parts Around the World

 

[gatormark91]

Changing tranny fluid is sooooo overrated. Toyota figured that out as well and did away with the dipstick. Just drive them. That is what Toyota made them for.

Not correct. The fluid has stabilizers and cleaners in it that break down over time. Eventually, you'll get deposits, and the deposits on the TC lockup clutch will cause odd lockup behavior and TC shudder. Mine started shuddering badly at around 240K. The solution is a full swap to new fluid. I swapped all my fluid, and after about a week, the shudder was gone.

I drained my fluid 1 gallon at a time at the cooler, replacing the amount lost, then draining again, until all 16qts fresh fluid was in the trans. Before doing that, I dropped the pan and replaced the filter screen, mostly because I wanted to inspect the magnets in the pan for material. Now they are clean, and I can tell what is going on if I need to drop the pan again.

 

[BullElk]

Why did Toyota delete the dipstick and make obviously difficult to replace tranny fluid?

 

[gatormark91]

Why did Toyota delete the dipstick and make obviously difficult to replace tranny fluid?

Every manufacturer did that.

"Lifetime" fluid is for regular transmission's lifetimes, 150-200K. Run that far, the trans goes, car is 10-12 years old, worth a couple grand, it goes to the junkyard. Cruisers are way outside the curve for longevity.

Toyota WS is not magic juice. It is a lubricant, with additives to maintain it's ability to resist shear and heat degradation, and to keep stuff clean. Those break down, and it gets dirty. There is no lubricating fluid for any vehicle that is expected to last 1/4 or 1/2 of a million miles without having it's additives refreshed.. Not a thing.

Manufacturers want to maintain control of the fluids that go into their 'lifetime" transmissions. So they got rid of the dipstick. They also call their spark plugs "lifetime" as well. No plug keeps its gap or works at its best after 100K miles. Leave plugs in a head for 100k miles, and it will be an unhappy experience removing them. "Lifetime" doesn't mean anything in the real world.

 

[Spike555]

Every manufacturer did that.

"Lifetime" fluid is for regular transmission's lifetimes, 150-200K. Run that far, the trans goes, car is 10-12 years old, worth a couple grand, it goes to the junkyard. Cruisers are way outside the curve for longevity.

Toyota WS is not magic juice. It is a lubricant, with additives to maintain it's ability to resist shear and heat degradation, and to keep stuff clean. Those break down, and it gets dirty. There is no lubricating fluid for any vehicle that is expected to last 1/4 or 1/2 of a million miles without having it's additives refreshed.. Not a thing.

Manufacturers want to maintain control of the fluids that go into their 'lifetime" transmissions. So they got rid of the dipstick. They also call their spark plugs "lifetime" as well. No plug keeps its gap or works at its best after 100K miles. Leave plugs in a head for 100k miles, and it will be an unhappy experience removing them. "Lifetime" doesn't mean anything in the real world.

I agree on everything except the spark plugs, I just did plugs on my wifes Sedona, 183,000 miles on the factory Iridium NGK plugs, two were fouled, the rest were fine.
She was complaining of a sometimes rough idle. The book says leave the plugs alone until you get a MIL.
MPG never changed. Fired right up. Ran great. Except the sometimes hiccup at cold idle.
The plugs came right out no problem. MIL came on the day before I did the tune up.
Also, at work, we run spark plugs until we get a MIL, then our mechaninc changes that plug and that plug only and put that thing back on the road.

 

[Robinson13]

I can see pushing the plugs past 100,000 miles on something like a V6 stuffed in there sideways. Especially the rear bank. But the Cruiser’s are so easy to change, other that the cost of the good plugs. I’d rather not get a miss fire code out in the middle of no where.
I change mine at timing belt time, makes turning over the engine much easier!

 

[gatormark91]

I agree on everything except the spark plugs, I just did plugs on my wifes Sedona, 183,000 miles on the factory Iridium NGK plugs, two were fouled, the rest were fine.
She was complaining of a sometimes rough idle. The book says leave the plugs alone until you get a MIL.
MPG never changed. Fired right up. Ran great. Except the sometimes hiccup at cold idle.
The plugs came right out no problem. MIL came on the day before I did the tune up.
Also, at work, we run spark plugs until we get a MIL, then our mechaninc changes that plug and that plug only and put that thing back on the road.

I don't know a single professional mechanic that does that. Maybe that is my experience, but I don't know a single one. Plugs are cheap compared to fixing threads in a head.

 

[Spike555]

I don't know a single professional mechanic that does that. Maybe that is my experience, but I don't know a single one. Plugs are cheap compared to fixing threads in a head.

I agree 100%, he and I just talked about this this morning, he does it this way because he doesn't have the time to do tune ups.
He said we have trucks out there with 250k on the original plugs. If it runs, stops and turns it's on the road. Lol

 

[Spike555]

I can see pushing the plugs past 100,000 miles on something like a V6 stuffed in there sideways. Especially the rear bank. But the Cruiser’s are so easy to change, other that the cost of the good plugs. I’d rather not get a miss fire code out in the middle of no where.
I change mine at timing belt time, makes turning over the engine much easier!

I agree with you that a tune up every 100k on the Cruiser is a easy thing to do.
Her owners manual says not to touch them and you have to remove the intake plenum to get to the rear bank.
Over all it took me just over 2hrs to do it start to finish.
But it defiantly is making me re-think my plug change interval.
The van ran great, no drop in MPG.

 

[NoTempoLimit]

Changing tranny fluid is sooooo overrated. Toyota figured that out as well and did away with the dipstick. Just drive them. That is what Toyota made them for.

(This is going to seem a bit OT but I'll loop back)

I believe BMW figured it out first. Once BMW went to "free maintenance" they solved the cost problem by eliminating maintenance. They claim the transmission (both auto and manual) has "lifetime" fluid (there is actually a badge on the trans that says 'no oil change').

That policy gets them brownie points from the greenies in the government for limiting "oil waste". Side benefit: Transmissions invariably crap out between 124 and 155k miles and the cost for a rebuilt transmission is so high (avg $8k) it practically guarantees the car is taken off the road, creating demand for new cars.

Despite changing the fluid at 83k on the only automatic BMW I have owned, the transmission still failed just over 100k miles due to a "factory defect" part of the "they all do that" type. That failure destroyed the value of that rare well maintained low mileage sport package 3 series wagon.

FORTUNATELY The seller of my newly purchased 100 series LC needed a project car for his son who won't be 16 for another six months. They are going to drop the auto and swap in a manual. I've already fixed -everything- on the engine so once they get the MT in there the car will go -at least- another 100k. Great first car for a kid. Will out-corner most sports cars but not fast enough to get into trouble.

***don't get me started on why they build an engine that can go 400k miles, and pair it with a plastic cooling system and an automatic transmission, neither of which will go 100k without failing***

So now I have a 2006 LC with 122k miles. I have extensive service records. The trans fluid change has not been done yet as far as I can determine (no record of it). I was surprised when I saw that Toyota's maintenance schedule recommends ATF fluid change at 60k miles if you are towing, but there is no reccomendation if you are not towing (my LC does not have a hitch).

Usually maintenance intervals for "normal use" are about double that for "severe use". So I assume that the normal use ATF interval would be around 100 -120k. But there is only an 'inspect' recommendation.

What do you guys think?

 

[BullElk]

My "side benefit" of never changing tranny fluid as long as it looks good, smells good and tastes good is.....zero problems in many many many miles and then some. And alot of that mileage is my daily work in the woods in fairly harsh evironments. Another side benefit is the money and time saved resulting in the same clean fluid.

 

[NoTempoLimit]

My "side benefit" of never changing tranny fluid as long as it looks good, smells good and tastes good is.....zero problems in many many many miles and then some...

How many miles do you have on a LC or LX transmission on the original fluid without a failure?

 

[BullElk]

First of all, I did not buy any of my cruisers or Lexii brand new. However, My 2000 LX has about 260k miles on same fluid, The ‘97 LX has at least 140k miles. One ‘96 LX has at least 100k. The other ‘96 LX has at least 330k miles on same fluid. As of today, Not one second of tranny trouble in any. I do check fluids on a regular basis to assure passage of the taste test.

To add, I’m not sure a lack of tranny trouble has as much to do with not changing fluid when it doesn’t need changing as much as the fact that the trannys are specifically designed to be bombproof.... unlike in all other vehicles.

 

[abuck99]

My "side benefit" of never changing tranny fluid as long as it looks good, smells good and tastes good is.....zero problems in many many many miles and then some. And alot of that mileage is my daily work in the woods in fairly harsh evironments. Another side benefit is the money and time saved resulting in the same clean fluid.

Not sure why you're so invested in arguing for not changing trans fluid. Good for you that you never change it and haven't had any issues or failure- your saving time and money; but your reasoning is purely anecdotal.

There are too many variables in driving behavior, duty cycle: type of use, climate and mileage that dont support a one sided argument.

Post some scientific evidence like an oil analysis taken at various stages of your mileages compared against new fluid to report any changes in fluid chemical properties. If there’s no change in chemical properties over 100-200-300k then your point is useful.

Manufacturers changed the service recommendation to comply with regulatory guidelines- not because its not needed. The system is not closed- dust and moisture enter the transmission through the breather- slowly contaminating the fluid over time. Heat permanently impacts fluid chemical properties.

If people want to change fluid; its ok (and beneficial.)

 

[BullElk]

“Not sure why you're so invested in arguing for not changing trans fluid”.

No arguing here. I simply responded to his question with my experiences and results of not being OCD about tranny fluid maintenance.

“If people want to change fluid; its ok (and beneficial.)”

They sure can and perhaps they will see a benefit. But my experiences suggests I can’t have less tranny trouble than I do right now as long as I keep clean fluid in the tranny, regardless of age. Again, my transmissions may fail today but up until this second things have worked out great without changing the already clean fluid to new clean fluid.

Not to mention, until now, the numerous times I’ve heard about tranny trouble right after changing or flushing. No need here.

 

[NoTempoLimit]

...Not to mention, until now, the numerous times I’ve heard about tranny trouble right after changing or flushing...

With electronically controlled automatic transmissions, the preferred procedure is "drain and fill". This doesn't change all of the fluid at one time. Such a procedure partially replenishes the ATF while not changing its properties suddenly which would cause the transmission electronics to have trouble compensating. This is WELL documented in among BMW auto trans users.

Still, I am curious if anyone can speak with any authority regarding my first question, which I'll re-state:
IF the interval for ATF fluid change is 60k miles IF TOWING, why should the interval if not towing be "never"? Should it not be 120k miles?

 

[BullElk]

Still, I am curious if anyone can speak with any authority regarding my first question, which I'll re-state:
IF the interval for ATF fluid change is 60k miles IF TOWING, why should the interval if not towing be "never"? Should it not be 120k miles?

Of course I have no authority to say but my guess is that if not TOWING then perhaps the fluid never gets hot enough to break down thus never needing to be changed.

 

[Portland Lx 450]

I have a 2003 LC with a 165k on the clock, PO had dealer do full fluid exchange at 70k. My plan is to pull the drain plug, measure how much came out then put back in the same amount of Redline D4 ATF (Full Synthetic) then drive 10 miles then repeat and do the same thing again in 5000 miles and call it good. Good plan or not?


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[NoTempoLimit]

Revisiting from last year... If anyone is afraid to change the fluid in their '06-'07 based on tales they have heard, I can let you know my experince. I had the fluid changed by a transmission shop, doing a "drop pan" procedure, installing new filter and gasket. Here's what I can say:

1. I now have nearly 25k miles from that fluid change, transmission operates normally, never had any issues.

2. When we did the fluid change, more fluid was needed than expected, suggesting that some fluid had been lost due to slow leaks, etc. So if you never change fluid, and never check it, you could end up with a big repair bill.

3. I got my ScanGage working and the fluid does run very cool. I have not yet seen trans fluid temps above 150ºF, but I don't tow and I'm in Maine so hot days are rare. In any case this fluid never seems to get very hot and I'm not sure how the moisture gets taken out of it if it never gets above 100ºC.

4. I forgot to add in post #30 that during my BMW era (they claimed "lifetime fluid" as well) I looked up documents from the transmission manufacturer (ZF) and they said "lifetime fluid" meant 200-250k km which is where I got 124 - 155k miles.

What ZF meant by that: "Since you are going to junk the entire vehicle after 124k miles, and definitely by 155k miles, no need to change the fluid." I believe BMW is now suggesting ATF change at 100k miles. Well out of warranty so they don't have to pay for it.

I'm still not sure what the right fluid change interval should be for the LC with A750 transmission. I know it should not be less than 60k miles, but not sure where to put the "max".

I'm sure at 60k the level should be checked. Perhaps I'll take a fluid sample at 60k and send it in for analysis.

 

[Caaarlo]

I agree. If were to do it again i would just let it run till it was all pumped out and refill with new.

Your video is a nice learning experience for you, but adds air bubbles running pump dry, waste time and money and is cumbersome.

So... bubbles apart, a one-step complete drain is then possibe ? Can you run the engine until almost all of the fluid is out ? (converter, hoses, radiator, all except strainer and pan, which then will have to be unbolted in order to get the remaining 3 liters out).

Then after refilling, the system will have some bubbles. Is this a real problem besides having to shift through all gears to remove/purge all bubbles ?

I find this much easier and cleaner than having to mix old with new fluids in several steps. But I don't know whether it is really possible or not.

TIA.