2006 LX470 Issues...should I keep it?? (1 Viewer)

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Greetings, new member here, long time lurker. I have an 06 LX470 with 250k, got it about 2 years ago with little over 200k (one owner, complete service record, no rust visible). I got it because I heard excellent things about Land Cruisers, especially people saying how bulletproof they are. This has not been my experience at all with this truck!! Every 4 months, or so, it has something major go out on it. Here is a list in order:

AHC computer got corrupted, replaced with factory new one.

Nakamichi amp and speakers blew out, replaced all speakers with aftermarket, amp replaced.

ATRAC system went bad and the vehicle could not stay aligned, system was reset and vehicle re aligned.

Rear AHC sensor went bad and was replaced.

And just recently the power steering pump failed, leaked into the alternator, some sort of valve, and killed the battery. Also, the sunroof glass molding warped and the thing leaks like it's not even there. All of these issues are currently being repaired.

Oh yeah, and my center locking diff won't engage. Not fixing this right now since the above stuff is costing a pretty penny.

Every time I fix something I hope that it is the last thing I need to fix something for a long while. I realize this is an old truck, but I keep hearing how much people love theirs and keep them for decades. I have been wanting to do upgrades, but funds keep getting dumped into repairs instead. The engine and tranny run like new. I feel that those are those are the only components of the vehicle that are good. I have been debating whether or not to get rid of this truck and get a newer one (i.e. 200 series) but even the 2008's go for high 20's with well over 100k, plus I may be inheriting a whole new set of problems. I love my truck, and I want to do upgrades already not huge repairs!!

I know this is a loaded question, but else could realistically go wrong next with my 06 LX? Keep in mind, that all standard maintenance is up to date, to include the timing belt.

Sorry for the venting, just really frustrated. Thanks in advance.
 
That sucks.

I've owned a couple of Cruisers now: 60 briefly, an 80 for 13 years, and now a 100.

Taken all together the vehicles were "bulletproof". I only had the 60 for about a year and a half but they were trouble free miles on a vehicles with over 200K.

My wife would have a different take on the 80 than me, it had all the issues the were known issues. It ate brakes for breakfast, I felt like I was always repacking the front axle bearings, it demolished 2 head gaskets, and exploded a rear locker (which was my fault). The truck NEVER left us stranded though on several 1000 + mile trips.

To keep this relevant to you, I haven't had the 100 long but the whole reason I got it is because currently it's the best of the breed. I can't tell you how many reviews, by Cruiserheads and non-alike that talk over and over again about GENERALLY how bulletproof they are. The 200 is showing itself to be another stalwart, but I think my point is two-fold:

1. My 80 had about 250k miles on it when I sold it and part of the reason I sold it is what you're talking about. It became more maintenance than fun and I knew I needed a platform change anyways (more power, better brakes, etc.).
Others can chime in but in my experience even the legendary Toyota parts start needing some attention above 200K, which is crazy because most vehicles don't wear as well.

2. I understand your frustration and make no mistake these trucks are NOT cheap to work on. I feel like some buyers come in with a Jeep mentality and underestimate how expensive they can be to work on when something does go wrong.

My final point is that I guess if you're asking if you should sell or keep, you should ask yourself how long you intend to keep it. Most of us on here I would say are 10-year owners and up. I had my 80 like I said for 13 years, overall I would say it was fairly cheap to own (minus mods of course), but man when something broke it went to Hell. If you're planning on owning it for that long I would just keep plugging away.

Good luck and lucky for you, there's a ton of 100's coming on the market right now that are ripe for the picking.
 
It is fair to say that all LCs are "bulletproof"... but, there are variables to be applied on a truck-by-truck basis.

Five of the key factors that come to mind, which often overlap:

Prior owner(s) use/abuse (grocery getter or offroader?)

Maintenance/repair history and quality (service intervals and OEM components used by competent mechanic)

Environmental factors (i.e. rust from salting or other exposure to saltwater, water immersion, extreme heat)

Overall age and care exercised/given (was it garaged for 10 years, and has it lived an "easy" life? Is the truck "worn out" from a tough life?)

Mileage (while not the most important factor, all things being equal, a truck with less miles has less time/exposure to more negative factors that could impact reliability and longevity)

This is why the general rule is buy the newest LC you can afford. All things being equal, a newer model year truck is going to be more reliable and have less "issues". Sure, every generation LC has its known vulnerabilities to longevity and reliability. Sure, maybe there are a handful of "lemons" out there that fall short of legendary Land Cruiser reliability. However, I believe most other issues are a mixture of the above listed factors.

Nobody call tell you the right thing to do in your situation - comes down to money, time, intended use, and intended length of ownership. Buying a used truck is always a leap of faith, so we all must educate ourselves as best we can to make the best purchase given our situation.

Merry Christmas.
 
Sell. An 06 with 250k and shop service doesn't even come close to qualifying as bulletproof.
 
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Sounds like there is more going on then just things not working properly due to a lemon LX, which I don't think even exist. Perhaps your LX was flooded or something strange like that causing soooo many uncommon issue at once. That is definitely a rare bird your driving.
 
Thank you for all the replies. I have decided to give her another chance. Especially since a lot have funds have been dumped into it already, albeit not on what I was hoping to put them towards. As soon as I get her back up and running I would be looking to do some upgrades and will certainly posting future threads asking for advice!
 
Glad to see you're going to keep plugging away at it, but keep in mind any older vehicle is going to require some TLC to get it up to par and keep it there. Learning how to do as much work as you can yourself will also help save you a small fortune.
 
Any idea how to make the center locking diff work again? All it does is make a click sound when I push the button.

I don't. Still pretty new to 100's myself. I guarantee someone on here does and there is a good chance there is a thread on it.

Is the clicking electrical or mechanical? That would help determine which way to go in diagnosing the issue.

Good luck!
 
I don't. Still pretty new to 100's myself. I guarantee someone on here does and there is a good chance there is a thread on it.

Is the clicking electrical or mechanical? That would help determine which way to go in diagnosing the issue.

Good luck!

Thanks, it is an electric click, sounds like a relay.
 
Thanks, it is an electric click, sounds like a relay.
Are you sure the cdl isn't engaging? There is a sensor on top that triggers the dash light, it's known to go bad. Cost about $15 and 15 minutes.
 
Are you sure CDL is not engaging? Forget the dash light, do your wheels bind when the CDL switch is pressed and you turn slowly on dry pavement?

Engaging CDL works like this:

1. Pushing the dash button sends power to a relay near the glove box. That’s the click you’re hearing.

2. Relay drives the actuator motor in the diff and moves the locking mechanism into position.

3. At the end of its travel, locking mechanism depresses the detector switch on the diff case.

4. Detector switch illuminates light on dash.

Disengagement is opposite. Fancy wiring turns the actuator motor in the opposite direction until locking mechanism is disengaged, and detector switch is released.

To debug:

- With engine off, key at ON, drivers window down:

- Press CDL switch and listen for motor whirring underneath car. If no sound then your wiring harness may be damaged.

- If you hear motor whirring but the wheels don’t bind, then something internal to the diff ain’t right.

- If wheels bind then either your dash light is out or the detector switch is broken. Either of these are the most likely, and mean your CDL works ok.
 
In addition to the advice @Ayune gave above, take it out in a field or dirt area and do figure 8s after you've engaged the switch.

Sometimes with prolonged inactivity they don't engage easily.
 
Was this a flood vehicle? Sounds like you have a lot of electrical issues.
 
Thank you all for all of the info! To answer some ?'s

I have not tried pushing the diff lock button with the engine off, but ignition to on. I have only pushed the button with the vehicle on, but moving. I heard a click and saw no dash indication, so I figured it wasn't working. This is my 1st 4x4 with a diff lock of any kind so I am not too familiar with them.

The last time I engaged it was a little over a year ago and it worked just fine then. So it has been a while since it was used.

I do not believe it was a flood vehicle; however, when I was getting new speakers installed, I did discover that there was a ton of sand hiding underneath all of the carpeting. So it most likely was taken to the beach with the previous owner on more than one occasion.

When I get her back from the shop I will try pressing the button again in the on position and driving around with it too.

On another note, I am very much enjoying this forum! A lot of very helpful and knowledgeable people here!
 

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