This is what I got at the time: Amazon product ASIN B075VN7JHYIt's basically an external projector with transparent screen, and can work independently via OBD or hook up with smartphone as an external display. It does the work. Now I just attach it to OBD instead of smartphone, because it mirrors the phone screen so it has to be always on. Another issue with LC/LX is that the space under the windshield is pretty tight to mount the HUD in front of me. Also you need to get used to the latency of OBD signal. If to buy today, I may just get the most basic HUD showing RPM/Speed/Coolant...
2004 Land Cruiser Gauge Cluster FIXED! How-To (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter dchilds
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Thanks guys.
I was hoping something had changed, and even tried reaching out to an old vendor from another community to see if I could whittle this down to a reasonable price. I guess not.
I'm going to live with it and see if it drives me $500 worth of crazy.
I tore mine down but was intimidated by the desoldering and soldering dchilds outlined.
I started searching for a replacement to see how much before I accidentally broke mine. I've not found one inexpensive. I tied fishing line to my oil pressure arm, fed it down so I can give it a friendly tug on those infrequent cold mornings when it stops. It's so infrequent, I've not thought much about it.
I started searching for a replacement to see how much before I accidentally broke mine. I've not found one inexpensive. I tied fishing line to my oil pressure arm, fed it down so I can give it a friendly tug on those infrequent cold mornings when it stops. It's so infrequent, I've not thought much about it.
I’m with Meyers on this, it just seems to odd that all at once mine started faulting out. It only makes sense that they are all tied to a same resistor or crack in the board or something that is actually causing the actual problem. To me it seems like it is something that regulates the power to them as sometimes mine act as if the power is actually fading prior to the dashboard dance... I would also believe that Tanin already has this figured out as such (I mean good for them right). I would bet if someone had a repaired panel that they can take apart and inspect it can easily be figured out if they have replaced the motors or a resistor of some sort....
Also as food for thought the more I thought of this my issues didn’t start until I had a completely drained battery issue in which I had to jumpstart a few different times, makes me wonder if it could somehow be related...
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
Ok.
If someone wants to build (2) 10ft. extensions to go from rig wiring to dash wiring, that would be great. I don't have the patience to make them myself.
I should be visiting @MJK soon. We can real-time diagnose his wobbly tach needle on a bench. Perhaps if i stop off and borrow a cheap oscope from @jerryb as I pass thru Pensecola on the way, we can make this happen. I do have a EE background.
Maybe a group effort can help get to root cause of these issues.
If it is not the stepper motor itself, I suspect some part of an RC circuit pooped out.
If someone wants to build (2) 10ft. extensions to go from rig wiring to dash wiring, that would be great. I don't have the patience to make them myself.
I should be visiting @MJK soon. We can real-time diagnose his wobbly tach needle on a bench. Perhaps if i stop off and borrow a cheap oscope from @jerryb as I pass thru Pensecola on the way, we can make this happen. I do have a EE background.
Maybe a group effort can help get to root cause of these issues.
If it is not the stepper motor itself, I suspect some part of an RC circuit pooped out.
Ok so maybe a small clue to this issue....”maybe”... so I just went on a 1900 mile trip through Death Valley, Utah and back. While on that trip I had my OBD2 hooked up in case the dash started wigging out and it did quite a few different times during that 1900 mile. I had the obd2 set to show mph, rpm, temp, and charging volts. The one common denominator that I did notice every single time that the dash went haywire was that the charging volts was over 14.30... Whenever it was below 14.30 volts it was flawless yet the minute it went over 14.30 it was prone to going haywire.... every time. I don’t know how it could be related but is it possible that there is a little diode or resistor or something that controls the level of power going into the panel that has gone bad?.. I am definitely electronicly challenged so I really don’t know but this is indeed how it went down every single time.
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
^ nice work !!!!
Thanks... now all we need is to have the lx470 electronics god to see this thread with schematic in hand and consider it his sole mission... I’ve been looking online for a schematic of the instrument panel but have been unsuccessful so far. My dad is an electronics wizard and could actually probably take a pretty educated stab at it but again.... need the schematic 
Most of the failed 15 year old electronics I have dealt with have resulted from capacitor failure. Honda climate control units, GE microwave logic boards, Bose car audio amps, etc. I don't know anything about this cluster, but if Tanin can repair LX clusters but not source new steppers it does make you wonder.
maybe they're keeping it a secret? 14.3 shouldn't be a deal breaker. I would suspect the board. The times I've looked for real schematics I've not found them. Like above, I would look at all the capacitors. I'm no expert though and honestly, 500 to refurb sounds ok to me. I've taken out and reinstalled enough to know that I don't want to spend the time. The LX ones seem to be more finicky also FYI. Do it one too many times and things are going to break.
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
@jerryb! We can champion this stuff ...
Listen, I'm going to be driving from FL to OR (again) within the next 2-3 weeks. @MJK is a great friend of mine, and I'll be stopping off in Tucson to hang out with him for a few days. As an electronics guy, do you (jerryb) happen to own a cheap oscope I can borrow and ship back to you from Tucson to diagnose MJK's cluster? I've done lots of things like this before when I was younger and before I switched from electrons to photons.
If Jerry doesn't have any equipment, maybe someone else has an oscope along the I-10 to I-20 route that can lend me an oscope? I'm not talking about a 4 chan 100GHZ hot rod, more like something in the low MHZ range, dual chan ... analog is fine.
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
Do you mind making a ROM? Perhaps the community can help fund the cost and they be community property which can be passed from user to user for the cost of shipping to help others in diagnosis and fix.
Even though I don't have this cluster issue, I just get bothered by $500 to fix. I'm positive this group can do better.
Even though I don't have this cluster issue, I just get bothered by $500 to fix. I'm positive this group can do better.
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
Rough order of magnitude of cost. Plus/minus 1-2 dB of anticipated cost.
One of the Infiniti clubs where I belong has a guy that repairs and/or sells repaired climate control center digital readouts as a service to club members. Professionally, he is a real estate broker. He repairs and sells climate control units as a courtesy to the club. You can buy one with an exchange or send yours for repair. I bought one from him over 10 years ago.
If we can get someone to repair the clusters or sell with an exchange, there are companies that will reset mileage as a service.
The rarer the car, the more I see owners providing services to other owners.
If we can get someone to repair the clusters or sell with an exchange, there are companies that will reset mileage as a service.
The rarer the car, the more I see owners providing services to other owners.
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
Same thing going on in the Acura/Honda community. I'd love to have something similar here.
Is the mileage really stored in the meter? I would think it's somewhere else. But I don't really know.
On the extensions..
the stock females are 37$ something, cheaper after locating the brand and number on mouser. It's an IDC housing. Rarer, with a completely different part #, first digits being 82824 not 90980.. usually when searching there will be another non IDC that's cheaper provided you can find the datasheet. toyota female #s, two of 82824-60060 and two of 82824-60050
need 4 of them. There are two different part numbers for all 4 females, they alternate, but they are the same physically, I think it's a color difference. I will post a pic.
One toyota original female 37$. Or sourced from used or an individual or junk yard.
7 aftermarket once found, probably 10$ each
Mating male x 4 also probably 7-11 each. PCB mount I bet with no other options. Finding that takes time also. Data sheet from the female will sometimes list the mate. Also anyone that has the combo meter out can examine the male side. sometimes there's number on the backside face (where the pins come out) in very small same color numbers.
connector est 140$
Terminals, if every position is filled, 160 at maybe .6 to .25 $ est 30$
Wire is sort of cheap but shipping is not. 8 rolls off 100' 22 awg TXL $5 each plus shipping, 15$. depends on how long you want the adapter/extensions. I keep 9-11 colors of 22 awg but not enough extra to do that part for free.
est 65$ wire
I would think 6 or 7 feet would be long enough to set it on the passenger seat while connected and or driving/not driving. I dislike delcity for wiring because of their shipping cost. But their product is fantastic. IF you figure 6' or 7' extensions, then the remaining 3 or 4 feet can be the Ys for each wire to examine a signal. DDM or scope etc. Adding to it or making them longer from the beginning isn't a big deal either because the cost per foot is cheap once you have it. recommend 4 different colors, one for each plug the Ys should be a different color per 20 position connector.
I wouldn't use cheap wire.
Continuity testing it, making up the wires with Ys and terminals is fairly fast. Still it would take a day make the male female adapters then fit and crimp 160 terminals and solder the Ys in there, 6 hours with beer on the couch. small zip ties or tape. No sheathing, grouped in sets of 20.
shipping est 50$
They would be of like quality and stand up to repeated connect /disconnect for a long time. The adapter part would look like this pic below minus the extra wires and connector coming off to the left. It goes male -female adapter (black shrink wrap) to female.
total est 300$ and 15$ to ship it to someone.
mapping them all, or all occupied positions for my car would be fairly fast. LX I couldn't do all. nor would the other two previous LC versions.
Most are the same but not all, and there will be less wires in the earlier versions of both models. I will find the wiring schematic for MY 2006. It will take a few days.
On the extensions..
the stock females are 37$ something, cheaper after locating the brand and number on mouser. It's an IDC housing. Rarer, with a completely different part #, first digits being 82824 not 90980.. usually when searching there will be another non IDC that's cheaper provided you can find the datasheet. toyota female #s, two of 82824-60060 and two of 82824-60050
need 4 of them. There are two different part numbers for all 4 females, they alternate, but they are the same physically, I think it's a color difference. I will post a pic.
One toyota original female 37$. Or sourced from used or an individual or junk yard.
7 aftermarket once found, probably 10$ each
Mating male x 4 also probably 7-11 each. PCB mount I bet with no other options. Finding that takes time also. Data sheet from the female will sometimes list the mate. Also anyone that has the combo meter out can examine the male side. sometimes there's number on the backside face (where the pins come out) in very small same color numbers.
connector est 140$
Terminals, if every position is filled, 160 at maybe .6 to .25 $ est 30$
Wire is sort of cheap but shipping is not. 8 rolls off 100' 22 awg TXL $5 each plus shipping, 15$. depends on how long you want the adapter/extensions. I keep 9-11 colors of 22 awg but not enough extra to do that part for free.
est 65$ wire
I would think 6 or 7 feet would be long enough to set it on the passenger seat while connected and or driving/not driving. I dislike delcity for wiring because of their shipping cost. But their product is fantastic. IF you figure 6' or 7' extensions, then the remaining 3 or 4 feet can be the Ys for each wire to examine a signal. DDM or scope etc. Adding to it or making them longer from the beginning isn't a big deal either because the cost per foot is cheap once you have it. recommend 4 different colors, one for each plug the Ys should be a different color per 20 position connector.
I wouldn't use cheap wire.
Continuity testing it, making up the wires with Ys and terminals is fairly fast. Still it would take a day make the male female adapters then fit and crimp 160 terminals and solder the Ys in there, 6 hours with beer on the couch. small zip ties or tape. No sheathing, grouped in sets of 20.
shipping est 50$
They would be of like quality and stand up to repeated connect /disconnect for a long time. The adapter part would look like this pic below minus the extra wires and connector coming off to the left. It goes male -female adapter (black shrink wrap) to female.
total est 300$ and 15$ to ship it to someone.
mapping them all, or all occupied positions for my car would be fairly fast. LX I couldn't do all. nor would the other two previous LC versions.
Most are the same but not all, and there will be less wires in the earlier versions of both models. I will find the wiring schematic for MY 2006. It will take a few days.
