2004 Land Cruiser Gauge Cluster FIXED! How-To (2 Viewers)

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MA:263115.0001
ly same as 6S except for the shaft is in other direction.

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All right, finally an update to my story. LX470 use another type of stepper motor :(. It's actually based on the 6S, but has another attachment on top of it which seems to supply the power to the LED embedded in the needle.

Edit 1: Correction, it's not based on 6S actually. The base model is exactly same as 6S except for the shaft is in other direction.

 
So my stepper motors finally arrived and i stripped down the dash to find i have the wrong ones [6s] Mine has the Lexus style ones pictured above with the illuminated needle . So I've put it back together and now the needle on the oil pressure gauge doesnt light up .it was really stiff so I must of bust it getting it off. So now has anyone got the correct stepper motors and a illuminated needle please?
 
Anyone find a good source for the Lexus stepper motors? Looks like I’m gonna be needing some.
 
Anyone know if there’s a trick to getting these out? I can pull the panel about 4” out from the dash, enough to get my arm back there. I can feel clips holding the wiring pigtail to the back of the panel, but I can’t get either side to release.

EDIT - Answered my own question - you have to back the gold retaining bolts out *really far*
 
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I finally replaced the stepper motors for my speedometer and tach. I am hoping that the smaller gauges will keep holding. It is not a difficult job, but it took me a few hours, and it looks pretty bad when you have the parts spread all over your workbench... but when all is said and done it is worth doing. Assuming you can find the stepper motors, good luck to all the LX guys looking for them.
 
As a follow up to replacing the stepper motors. I marked the needle position, and made sure to install with exactness, but after I started driving it I found that the speedo was off by 2 mph. It would seem that not all motors are identical in where the stop is vs how they respond when being given the signal to move. It is probably just a slight variance depending on who manufactures the motor.

Interesting side note, my original was off by 2 mph, so when I put on larger tires no correction was needed. Now with the new stepper motor it is off by 2 mph the other way, so it is now probably correct to factory specs. This is just one of the things that makes me think my Cruiser was a Friday vehicle.
 
I would bet it would fix your tach problem and the fluttering.
I am so happy to have found this post. I would like to replace all six steppers. The ebay listing says that the 6G part is not compatible with my 2005 LC. It seems like a decent number have had luck with these stepper motors for their LC's. Would it be safe to assume ebay is wrong?
 
I am so happy to have found this post. I would like to replace all six steppers. The ebay listing says that the 6G part is not compatible with my 2005 LC. It seems like a decent number have had luck with these stepper motors for their LC's. Would it be safe to assume ebay is wrong?
That’s usually a safe assumption.
 
Landcruiser Instrument cluster

Ok seem to have fixed my series 100 cluster. Started with intermittent fault in speedo, agents wanted to replace entire cluster. Sent to electronics whiz kids checked all connections, can back regular intermittent fault in speedo and clicking noise, sent in again, now other gauges misbehaving, back again, came back no fuel, no tachometer no speedo no cruise control, no range indicator. About now decide these guys don’t know what they are doing. Options send to specialist speedo repair, might or might not fix, seem to be good ones in States and Aus, not sure here in NZ, new cluster at mega bucks or try it myself with help from very clever electronics friend. Result everything working.

Faults exist in the male female connections at the back of the panel, almost impossible to access. These connectors simply don’t pull together close enough with existing bolts and the length of thread designed to prevent over tightening and also to separate connectors when unwound. Replacing these bolts tacks balls. And you could do a lot of damage if you get it wrong. The bolts are retained with star type washers which you can’t get at as they are recessed in the plastic housing. Maybe the plastic housing could be modified to provide access didn’t try that. I positioned the head of the bolt over a small piece of pipe which was supported on my vice and used a centre punch and decent sized hammer to force the bolt back out through the star washer which will get destroyed in the process. You will need someone to support the cluster while you are giving your centre punch some seriously hard hits. You have to try to avoid the shock going into the electronic board. Once you get these out you can replace them with threaded engineers screws which will give you a lot more pull on the connectors when you do them up. BUT undoing them will not separate the plugs and you cant get you hand or anything else in there to do it so you get around this by unscrewing the screw a few turns (leave the panel fixed to the dash at this stage, and then pushing the head of the screw away from you to start to separate the plug, repeat a couple of times and then free the panel fixings from the dash surround. Keep unscrewing and pushing now pulling the cluster toward you. Found it better to use overly long threaded screws as you can use the length to completely separate the plugs by pushing on them. Plenty of room for the additional length to continue out through the plug. Just suffer the frustration of endlessly unscrewing these things. OK that takes care of the bad connector issues.

Now I had problems with the stepper motors, These are cheap and can be obtained via web searched BUT the ones I found don’t have the fine small spring coils behind the needle as were fitted in my truck so despite having replacements on order we repaired the stepper motors on the speedo, fuel gauge and tachometer. Some of these might have suffered damage by my getting the bolts out as the wires in them and connections are so fine and poorly designed. You obviously need to remove the stepper motors from the board, watch DIY BRI care repair videos. Not as easy as it looks but hey you need a really good solder sucker, a very fine soldering tip and a soldering iron you can regulate the heat to a moderate level.

These motors have few small clips and you can open them quite easily with a bit of care and there is not a lot inside.

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The problem is a very poor design. The pins which you had removed the solder from pierce the small plastic pieces that the two coils are wound around and are not secure within this plastic. Any movement breaks the fine copper wire of the coil to the pin. The coils and pins disconnect from the holder easily and are able to be resoldered if you are that good. Thats all there is to it. Oh yea and the tricky bit of reassembly without the bits dislodging from where they need to be. Because the motors in the LC have a spring fitted behind the needle and so far the replacement ones found don’t I am assuming that the coils and pins from new ones might be able to be installed in your originals, just swap them over.

Thanks to all those who offered suggestions. Hope this can be of some help to any who have similar problems. Despite the Toyota service agents shrugging their shoulders and posing mystified looks, including their auto electrician, this is such a poor design that my problem cannot have been a one off situation. This has to be a fairly common issue with those motors.



Cheers merry Christmas Warren
 
Does anyone know if there's a stepper motor for the Oil Pressure gauge on the cluster?

Mine seems to be broken.
 
and D Childs, my 2005 LC has fine springs soldered onto pins behind the needle which others, possibly earlier and as depicted on ebay dont. We managed to resolder the connections of coils to pins, not ewntirely satisfactorily, still an intermittent fault in one guage, but hope to seap over the coils from the ebay replacement when they arrive
cheers Warren
 

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