Oklahoma
2004 Land Cruiser Gauge Cluster FIXED! How-To (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter dchilds
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Interesting.
I have no evidence, but I can't seem to get past the idea that capacitors are the most likely component to fail at this age. Particularly in the heat here in AZ. In other 'old Japanese car' circles, it is common practice to replace them using the highest heat rated components available for things like Bose amps, Climate Control units, etc. This has outlasted OEM for me - 7 years vs 15 and counting as an example.
I did a quick/ugly merge of @Myers photos (attached) to look for swolen caps and try and figure out which caps are in the 'CA6' tach circuit. I can't tell which caps are in what circuit but I see: 16V 100uF caps, 35V 100uF caps, 16V 47uF caps and 16v UD series 220uF caps. A quick Google shows all of these are available and worth $20ish?
I'd love to be able to ID caps by circuit and function, and test. Which, I think you'd need to desolder to be able to do. At that point, it might be worth just replacing them all.
Anyone know more about this than me? Or perhaps had their board worked on by Tanin noticed if their caps have been reworked?
I can't solder for sh!t, or I'd be tempted to give this a try.
I have no evidence, but I can't seem to get past the idea that capacitors are the most likely component to fail at this age. Particularly in the heat here in AZ. In other 'old Japanese car' circles, it is common practice to replace them using the highest heat rated components available for things like Bose amps, Climate Control units, etc. This has outlasted OEM for me - 7 years vs 15 and counting as an example.
I did a quick/ugly merge of @Myers photos (attached) to look for swolen caps and try and figure out which caps are in the 'CA6' tach circuit. I can't tell which caps are in what circuit but I see: 16V 100uF caps, 35V 100uF caps, 16V 47uF caps and 16v UD series 220uF caps. A quick Google shows all of these are available and worth $20ish?
I'd love to be able to ID caps by circuit and function, and test. Which, I think you'd need to desolder to be able to do. At that point, it might be worth just replacing them all.
Anyone know more about this than me? Or perhaps had their board worked on by Tanin noticed if their caps have been reworked?
I can't solder for sh!t, or I'd be tempted to give this a try.
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Nice photo splice there MJK... I’m with you as well in the camp that it has to be one of those little ticket item Like a resistor or capacitor or something. I’ve been very tempted to just send mine in to Tanin but mine really only acts up maybe 25% of the time which is just enough to make it really annoying yet still not quite enough to warrant sending it in.... Also I’m under the understanding it will take about a month round trip to get it done and it would be pretty inconvenient to try and work around not having my rig for that amount of time.
Mine have a cross on them too and they haven’t been touched. (See my first picture on previous page).
AFei sorry if I missed it but but did you end up sending yours in to Tanin and if so did it resolve the issues?
So I guess it's normal, since it didn't pop out...
No I didn't send it for repair. Just trying to live with it for now.
Whoa!... seems like a bit more than the going rate to me... I’ll use Strava before I pay that price, isn’t anew cluster from Lexus $1000 ?
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
I got the sense through the quoting process that they were not all that interested in the business, which I suppose is better to know up front.
If we can't find a fix, I'll live with it or try to buy a new one from Toyota. The P/N for my cluster is 83800-6D661. Prices from Toyota are all over the place if you can find a place that doesn't show it as NLA. I'm not sure what to do at this point. There seem to be no 'good' options.
I wonder if I could swap in a Land Cruiser one. At least that could be rebuilt.
If we can't find a fix, I'll live with it or try to buy a new one from Toyota. The P/N for my cluster is 83800-6D661. Prices from Toyota are all over the place if you can find a place that doesn't show it as NLA. I'm not sure what to do at this point. There seem to be no 'good' options.
I wonder if I could swap in a Land Cruiser one. At least that could be rebuilt.
Do you have this covered?... I wouldn’t have the slightest idea of what to order but let me know
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
MJK and I may discuss it offline. I'd imagine it will depend on if he wants me performing solder work on his cluster.
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
I need to measure dimensions to confirm, but they look like they could be the below:
(location references are from the @Myers photo splice)
C1, C20, C?6 (next to C16), C53, C7, C96
QTY 8: “Y1P 100 35V”
100uF 35V, appears to be Panasonic
Could be EEE-FP1V101AP
$0.73/ea @Mouser
C4, C5
QTY 2: “Y1P 220 35V”
220uF 35V, appears to be Panasonic
Could be EEE-FP1V221AP
$0.73/ea @Mouser
C43, C88, C12
QTY 3: “Y1P 47 16V”
47uf 35V, appears to be Panasonic
Could be EEE-FP1C470AP
$0.41/ea @Mouser
C16, C199, C70, C98
QTY 4: “¨48Y 100 16v”
100uF 16V, appears to be Panasonic
Could be EEE-FP1C101AP
$0.48/ea @Mouser
C29
QTY 1: “w1P 10 16v”
10uF 16V, appears to be Panasonic
Could be EEE-FP1C100AR
$0.42/ea @Mouser
C10
QTY1: “x4 220C UD”
Appears to be a Nichicon UD Series 220uF 16V
Could be UUD1C221MCL1GS
$.43/ea @Mouser
Any/all feedback appreciated, as I do not do this professionally and did not sleep in a Holiday Inn last night.
(location references are from the @Myers photo splice)
C1, C20, C?6 (next to C16), C53, C7, C96
QTY 8: “Y1P 100 35V”
100uF 35V, appears to be Panasonic
Could be EEE-FP1V101AP
$0.73/ea @Mouser
C4, C5
QTY 2: “Y1P 220 35V”
220uF 35V, appears to be Panasonic
Could be EEE-FP1V221AP
$0.73/ea @Mouser
C43, C88, C12
QTY 3: “Y1P 47 16V”
47uf 35V, appears to be Panasonic
Could be EEE-FP1C470AP
$0.41/ea @Mouser
C16, C199, C70, C98
QTY 4: “¨48Y 100 16v”
100uF 16V, appears to be Panasonic
Could be EEE-FP1C101AP
$0.48/ea @Mouser
C29
QTY 1: “w1P 10 16v”
10uF 16V, appears to be Panasonic
Could be EEE-FP1C100AR
$0.42/ea @Mouser
C10
QTY1: “x4 220C UD”
Appears to be a Nichicon UD Series 220uF 16V
Could be UUD1C221MCL1GS
$.43/ea @Mouser
Any/all feedback appreciated, as I do not do this professionally and did not sleep in a Holiday Inn last night.
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ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
But did you sleep in a Holiday Inn Express last night?
Hello all, new to the forum looking for a solution to my gauge problems. I have a 2003 HDJ100R landcruiser and my tacho and oil pressure gauges have been playing up for some time. This forum thread is the only place I have found any decent info about troubles with these gauges. My tacho sometimes works sometimes not and as I've recently discovered the oil gauge is affected as well. Sometimes when I start up the gauges are both working ok and then when the engine has warmed up a little the gauges begin reading lower than they should be. Sometimes the tacho wont work but the oil works and each time I start the the motor it's different. It definitely seems heat is having an affect somewhere as part of the trouble. I first noticed improvements when I replaced the batteries and began thinking of connections so cleaned the battery terminals, upgraded the body earth, cleaned the alternator connectors, removed and replaced the dash, removed and replaced the fuses. And then I found this thread, so I'm wondering how you guys are progressing with your trouble shooting. Have you located a spot that could be causing this. Has anyone had these troubles and fixed them. I've asked on our landcruiser forum but no answers there as yet.
Thanks for your interest and help
Noel,
Thanks for your interest and help
Noel,
can anyone please tell where are the leds lights for my gxr 2003..? i ordered t5 from ebay but was surprised to see there were no bulbs inside the speedometer maybe it have leds? my oil gauge bulb and alternator gauge bulb are not working and for fuel and temprature also the bulbs are so fade..encircled gauge lights not working rest all so dim.. please help
