2002 land cruiser- HVAC controls not responsive-SOLVED (6 Viewers)

[red66toy]

Hey all,
Hoping you can all help diagnose a issue with my HVAC controls not working. This 100 series is new to me, well any land cruiser newer than 1988 is new to me. So today I noticed there was some condensation on the interior windows, I went outside to start the cruiser up and run the interior heat and AC to dry it all out. Well I turned on the cruiser, I hit the defrost button and heard a sound for maybe a second and then nothing. I can hit all the buttons on the climate control screen and they all respond to my touch, but nothing happens functionally when I select them. They don't stay highlighted. So the blower motor wont turn on at all or the AC wont activate. Radio and NAV still seem to work fine.
I searched the archives and couldn't find anything on this issue (but mud search function is not the best). I checked the fuses, all look good. Blower motor (according to maintenance records) is only a few years old.
Would appreciate any help. Cheers.

 

[red66toy]

Ok, I tried to run the diagnostic check with the computer and nothing happens. I hold down the two buttons as indicated by the FSM and turn the ignition on. All that happens is the nav turns on as normal. Not diagnostic mode. So it seems the buttons have no functionality themselves?! Any ideas on how to proceed?
The "CIG" fuse was fine as well.

 

[red66toy]

Anyone by chance know where the front AC amplifier is? I see diagrams for the rear one but nothing for the front one.

 

[gt7058a]

It’s behind the nav unit

The nav delete thread has some discussion of it.

Pre-03 nav delete how-to

10-1-2022 edit: I relinked some deprecated pics and I'm self-hosting the spreadsheet. Here is the link to my spreadsheet in PDF and XLSX formats. Another update: print your own radio bezel. I modeled it in CAD and it's a free download. Thanks to redjet for his original spreadsheet which mine...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[gt7058a]

This thread, post #8, provides a description of what to check

Check connection of the air conditioner-- NAV Unit

I have a 2004 Land Cruiser, with Navigation-- and I get this message when I try to use the heat. The outside temp no longer displays, and I can't use the climate control. All other function on the navigation unit, to include radio, etc. work fine. Thanks for any help you can offer. I have...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[red66toy]

This thread, post #8, provides a description of what to check

Check connection of the air conditioner-- NAV Unit

I have a 2004 Land Cruiser, with Navigation-- and I get this message when I try to use the heat. The outside temp no longer displays, and I can't use the climate control. All other function on the navigation unit, to include radio, etc. work fine. Thanks for any help you can offer. I have...

forum.ih8mud.com

Thank you!!! I was beginning to suspect this. The FSM has no indication that is where it actually is which is a bit nuts. I’ll start digging deeper and report back.

 

[gt7058a]

Post 29 here goes into repair caused by pin 60 issue. symptoms sound similar to your issue, but it’s a 2003+

2003 Climate Control problem

did you try holding the info button in and turning on and off the headlights three times with car running? it will tell you if something is unplugged or not.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[red66toy]

Ok so I am still learning about this modern cruiser and didn’t know there were other fuses for the HVAC system under the hood! I found that the AC fuse was blown. I replaced it and everything works again. So half the problem is solved. Now I need to find out why the fuse blew.....

 

[red66toy]

Figured it out! I found that the AC compressor clutch trigger wire had pressed against the pulley and worn threw the insulation which would result in an instant short as soon as you hit the AC button. I moved a protective sheath over the damaged wire and zip-tied it out of the way. Everything works perfect now!

 

[pdx470]

Figured it out! I found that the AC compressor clutch trigger wire had pressed against the pulled and worn threw the insulation which would result in an instant short as soon as you hit the AC button. I moved a protective sheath over the damaged wire and zip-tied it out of the way. Everything works perfect now!

Thanks for your post. Greetings from PDX.
I have a 2005 LX470 with slightly different problem (see part of my recent post below) but from a distance my wire looks the same as yours. If you ask me, one heck of an engineering design. A very curious routing for wiring and I wonder what the grooved/slot like piece of metal is for that sits parallel to (and above in your picture) the belt and over which the wire runs. From above, that wire appears to be fixed without any slack.

A couple of questions:

1. For troubleshooting and repair, did you access the wire from above or below?
2. How much of the wire was exposed?
3. What type of protective sheath did you use for repair?
4. Where did you place your zip tie?

I take it that since your last post, your AC fuse has not blown again?

Thanks.

_______________________________________

2005 LX470. 105,000. Garaged, pampered.
Air conditioner main fuse (#43, 15 amp) keeps blowing.
First occurrence after sitting undriven for about 6 weeks and I put on a high quality battery trickle charger (that I have used many times before) for about 6 hours because I was concerned that my battery was probably at least partially drained after sitting that long.
After I first replaced the fuse, everything on that fuse circuit worked properly, then a day later the fuse blew again after I started the engine and pushed one of the ac control buttons because the AC was set to MAX COLD when I started it.
No evidence of any water leaks and no history of any electrical or AC problems.

 

[red66toy]

Thanks for your post. Greetings from PDX.
I have a 2005 LX470 with slightly different problem (see part of my recent post below) but from a distance my wire looks the same as yours. If you ask me, one heck of an engineering design. A very curious routing for wiring and I wonder what the grooved/slot like piece of metal is for that sits parallel to (and above in your picture) the belt and over which the wire runs. From above, that wire appears to be fixed without any slack.

A couple of questions:

1. For troubleshooting and repair, did you access the wire from above or below?
2. How much of the wire was exposed?
3. What type of protective sheath did you use for repair?
4. Where did you place your zip tie?

I take it that since your last post, your AC fuse has not blown again?

Thanks.

_______________________________________

2005 LX470. 105,000. Garaged, pampered.
Air conditioner main fuse (#43, 15 amp) keeps blowing.
First occurrence after sitting undriven for about 6 weeks and I put on a high quality battery trickle charger (that I have used many times before) for about 6 hours because I was concerned that my battery was probably at least partially drained after sitting that long.
After I first replaced the fuse, everything on that fuse circuit worked properly, then a day later the fuse blew again after I started the engine and pushed one of the ac control buttons because the AC was set to MAX COLD when I started it.
No evidence of any water leaks and no history of any electrical or AC problems.

Hello,
My fuse would blow mostly after it had been sitting a while as well. To answer your questions:
1. Best access is from above.
2. Only a very small portion of the wire was touching the pulley. 1/16th of an inch, but enough to eat through the insulation.
3. The sheath was factory and already on the wire! I had just ridden up the wire, I slid it back down to cover the damaged portion of wire.
4. I just zip-tied the wire to that metal bracket. It was able to pull the wire back away from the pulley JUST enough to have it not rub. A terrible design over all, not sure why they made the wire ride so close to the pulley. I tried to re-route the factory wire but it wasn't possible. Zip-tie for the win! I'll take a picture later and upload it.
5. The fuse has not blown since. Everything has worked great (knock on wood).

 

[pdx470]

Hello,
My fuse would blow mostly after it had been sitting a while as well. To answer your questions:
1. Best access is from above.
2. Only a very small portion of the wire was touching the pulley. 1/16th of an inch, but enough to eat through the insulation.
3. The sheath was factory and already on the wire! I had just ridden up the wire, I slid it back down to cover the damaged portion of wire.
4. I just zip-tied the wire to that metal bracket. It was able to pull the wire back away from the pulley JUST enough to have it not rub. A terrible design over all, not sure why they made the wire ride so close to the pulley. I tried to re-route the factory wire but it wasn't possible. Zip-tie for the win! I'll take a picture later and upload it.
5. The fuse has not blown since. Everything has worked great (knock on wood).

thanks for info and offer to post a picture of your fix - no rush.

 

[red66toy]

thanks for info and offer to post a picture of your fix - no rush.

Sorry for the mega delay! Here is my fix:

Pointing to the factory sheath pulled over the wire to cover it as the pulley passes by. zip-tie holding it back juuuust enough to clear the pulley. Tight fit for sure!

 

[jerryb]

nm

 

[red66toy]

nm

View attachment 2303656

Interesting that your wire was routed totally different. I tried to change the routing on mine but it was not possible. :/

 

[jerryb]

you'd probably have to take up the bracket to get enough slack to push it behind the tab. Mines never been touched.
see the phillips screw back behind the one wire connector? I believe the wire goes behind that long tab. I don't know why it would be there otherwise. Probably not enough slack to lift off the tab of the fixed connector either, instead of removing the screw.

 

[pdx470]

Sorry for the mega delay! Here is my fix:

Pointing to the factory sheath pulled over the wire to cover it as the pulley passes by. zip-tie holding it back juuuust enough to clear the pulley. Tight fit for sure!

Thanks. Crazy how tight a fit and how many rigs have similar wiring route. Hopefully this will remedy my fuse blowing issue.

 

[Morse_FJ40]

pdx470 did you fix your issue?

 

[Gnarwgn]

Not sure if I have related issues to the above, but its the closest string to the subject I could so giving it a bump for any pointers from those of you who have wrestled this to the ground:

The good news is, heat and a/c work fine. The challenging news is - my directional switch controlling the baffles directing hot/cold air to forward/feet/defrost are suddenly not working. It will blow forward, defrost still seems to work, but no noticeable heat/air of any kind at the foot position. So with the cold weather lately I've been great from the waist up, but freezing my ass off driving around from the waist down.

Any ideas here? I'm wondering if this is a fuse or something. Thanks for any advice.