Builds 2002 HZJ76 Build

[JDM Journeys]

I only read these posts for the comedy. Well.. mostly.

My Pajero evolution had very very large subordinal orbital space bubbles, and on more than one occasion I looked out the window and cut across the bridge of my nose inadvertently. I guess I'm a bit of an ass-tronaut.

I've had good luck with goof off as well, but sometimes there's no replacement for elbow grease. Too bad you couldn't buy that in a bottle?

 

[Rigster]

I only read these posts for the comedy. Well.. mostly.

My Pajero evolution had very very large subordinal orbital space bubbles, and on more than one occasion I looked out the window and cut across the bridge of my nose inadvertently. I guess I'm a bit of an ass-tronaut.

I've had good luck with goof off as well, but sometimes there's no replacement for elbow grease. Too bad you couldn't buy that in a bottle?

Lol... well, at least I have not done the nose bash but perhaps I just managed to remove them in time to avoid that!

I am glad you appreciate the humor I try to inject into an otherwise boring build thread, Phil. I like to keep it somewhat entertaining to read, whenever possible.

 

[Rigster]

Well I have been just loving the ride in the cruiser this last couple of weeks, then today I noticed a rattle under the driver's side. Quite noisy. My first thought of course is, "what did I do last on the cruiser?"

I was concerned that the clutch job I just did was somehow making noise?
Fortunately when I got home and had a closer look, I noticed that the first exhaust hanger below the driver's seat (right hand drive) had broke.

Not a big deal, thank goodness, so I threw a clamp on it until I have time to pick up a new one, or if the metal isn't too far gone, I may just weld it up again.

 

[Rigster]

Got started on the rear brake job today... started with checking the parts I had preordered last year. Had everything but the calipers I ordered last week, or so I thought. The bearing and seal kit for the rear hubs did NOT include axle seals. Rather than get toooo frustrated, I realized this is a first world problem, and ordered those as well.

I already got the calipers and discs off in my previous inspection to see what damages I was dealing with. So I wire wheeled the POR-15 off that I had previously put on, and removed all the nuts. Now everyone's FAVORITE! The dreaded cone washers.

I preheated one with a mag torch, if you do not have one of these, a propane torch will work just as well, it will just take longer. I found that 1.5 - 2 mins heating the cone washer where it meets the flange (not the STUD - you are not removing this) worked best.

Then I used a 4lb hand sledge and a drift. I had to make a m10x1.25 nut for the studs as I could not find an old one anywhere. After heating, I put the nut on the stud. What worked for me - 2 solid whacks on the stud, then one against the flange on either side of the cone washer. An average of 6 whacks a washer.

Then I moved to heat 2 at a time, then 3.

First side took me about 35 mins (from the time I started heating the first stud). Once I had the first side done, the second side was 2 groups of 3 and I had it done in 20 mins. You DO need to whack it harder than you think. Hence the nut on the end of the studs to protect them from flaring.

Tomorrow I will get started on removing the hubs and replacing bearings/races/seals, and of course do the emergency brake refresh while the hub is off as it is so much easier.

Oh the fun and festivities!! I am missing driving this beast around... although the TDI gets over twice the mileage so that is a plus.

 

[coldtaco]

Don’t ever hit the flange, it deforms it and makes it harder to remove the cone washers. I have always been able to remove the cone washers with a big hammer and a brass drift. Some took a bit more effort to remove this way but eventually they all come loose. Then I put a little bit of anti-sieze on them when installing.

 

[Rigster]

Don’t ever hit the flange, it deforms it and makes it harder to remove the cone washers. I have always been able to remove the cone washers with a big hammer and a brass drift. Some took a bit more effort to remove this way but eventually they all come loose. Then I put a little bit of anti-sieze on them when installing.

Interesting, I have never heard of the flange deforming. Thanks for the info. And yep, I picked up some anti-sieze already because I couldn't find my little tub of moly-slip. It must still be in a box in my shed. I also put a dab of medium thread locker on the studs for insurance when using anti-sieze lube on the cone washers.

 

[jayp2]

Interesting, I have never heard of the flange deforming. Thanks for the info. And yep, I picked up some anti-sieze already because I couldn't find my little tub of moly-slip. It must still be in a box in my shed. I also put a dab of medium thread locker on the studs for insurance when using anti-sieze lube on the cone washers.

I apply anti seize to the inside diameter and outside diameter of the little bastard cone washers

And when using new ones I am especially careful about working up to torque value (25ft lbs iirc) on those wee little M8's and go up in increments.

Having on hand new nuts, cone washers and studs is cheap insurance......I replaced everything except the studs this time

Witness marks with a bright pen/marker are also cheap insurance on stuff like this that allow a quick and easy visual verification of changes
Something like this usually does the trick

Amazon product ASIN B000GOYAPQ

 

[coldtaco]

I’m not home so I can’t take a picture of the flanges on mine, but you definitely can see the abuse from former work

 

[Rigster]

I’m not home so I can’t take a picture of the flanges on mine, but you definitely can see the abuse from former work

No worries bud, I appreciate the info. I have filed it away for future reference.

Have one side done already, at least the bearings, races and seal. New emergency brake refresh. Still have to put on the caliper and pads. The other side I will do tomorrow. Then I'll post a few pics, so it did happen.

Cleaned up the cone washers, added anti-sieze and 1 drop of blue thread locker on the studs for insurance.

 

[jayp2]

I’m not home so I can’t take a picture of the flanges on mine, but you definitely can see the abuse from former work

When I had mine apart this weekend I noticed that the area radially outside of each of the holes for the studs where the cone washers seat is surprisingly thin

Pounding on those thin spots with a steel hammer is probably a "Bad Idea ™" and isnt going to accomplish much imho

Better off screwing 2 M8 bolts in the end of the axle flange to help put outward pressude on the flange to separate it from the hub body.....those two studs that seat into the hub body are notorious for rusting and are also candidates for anti sieze lube.

 

[Rigster]

Ok, so brake/bearing seal refresh completed while doing the brakes.

I decided while I was in there to refresh the emergency brake components.

New bearings done and hub and new disk/drum combo

And with the new calipers installed

I have to say that although it is annoying to be basically doing "2 sets of brakes" when doing a complete brake refresh in the rear, the emergency brake system on these 70's are very effective. I can park on a hill with just the emergency brake engaged and it holds the vehicle extremely well. I generally put it in gear as well in that scenario, but I typically find parking spots that I do not have to worry about it.

 

[Rigster]

One thing I found interesting when removing the bearings and races from the hub was the last time this was done, they used TIMKIN bearings stamped with USA on them - the KOYO brand were the ones I was replacing them with. Perhaps they are cheaper than the Japanese ones? Seemed odd. Maybe it is the grass is always greener scenario?

This tool was nice to have when setting the bearing preload of 43ft-lbs. I got it when I ordered some stuff from Online Auto Parts | Supplying Super Cheap Auto Car & 4x4 parts - https://www.onlineautoparts.com.au/ for like $5

 

[Rigster]

Took the Land Cruiser out to visit a friend after work yesterday, and gave it a good run, and checked the brakes, etc. Stops excellent, straight... no pulling to one side or another. It's probably placebo affect, but it seems to be smoother with the new bearings and synthetic grease I used.

I would also like to point out bleeding brakes has never been easier. I swapped the line to the new caliper on each side as quickly as possible, then opened the bleeder screw, waiting a couple of minutes, and when it started coming out, closed it up. Topped up brake fluid and it was good to go. No second person needed, no pumping of brakes. Very little mess.

My emergency brakes I adjusted according to the FSM, and they do grab, but I need to adjust the cable a bit, as I seem to have to really pull it almost straight up if I am parked on a hill to grab well enough. Not leaving a sense of security with me (I can always pop it in gear as well, but... well... I like things to work like they should!) So I will get after seeing what adjustments I can do with the cable to tighten it up a bit next chance I have. The cable is the only thing I did not replace as it looks in really good condition.

 

[mt72]

Took the Land Cruiser out to visit a friend after work yesterday, and gave it a good run, and checked the brakes, etc. Stops excellent, straight... no pulling to one side or another. It's probably placebo affect, but it seems to be smoother with the new bearings and synthetic grease I used.

I would also like to point out bleeding brakes has never been easier. I swapped the line to the new caliper on each side as quickly as possible, then opened the bleeder screw, waiting a couple of minutes, and when it started coming out, closed it up. Topped up brake fluid and it was good to go. No second person needed, no pumping of brakes. Very little mess.

My emergency brakes I adjusted according to the FSM, and they do grab, but I need to adjust the cable a bit, as I seem to have to really pull it almost straight up if I am parked on a hill to grab well enough. Not leaving a sense of security with me (I can always pop it in gear as well, but... well... I like things to work like they should!) So I will get after seeing what adjustments I can do with the cable to tighten it up a bit next chance I have. The cable is the only thing I did not replace as it looks in really good condition.

You need to make a video DYI on that!

 

[Rigster]

You need to make a video DYI on that!

I am guessing on the self-bleeding? Or are you referring to the emergency brake adjustment. Because I did discover from one side to the next, you have to adjust the opposite way... lol.

 

[mt72]

I am guessing on the self-bleeding? Or are you referring to the emergency brake adjustment. Because I did discover from one side to the next, you have to adjust the opposite way... lol.

Sefl Bleeding lol sounds weird

 

[coldtaco]

Took the Land Cruiser out to visit a friend after work yesterday, and gave it a good run, and checked the brakes, etc. Stops excellent, straight... no pulling to one side or another. It's probably placebo affect, but it seems to be smoother with the new bearings and synthetic grease I used.

I would also like to point out bleeding brakes has never been easier. I swapped the line to the new caliper on each side as quickly as possible, then opened the bleeder screw, waiting a couple of minutes, and when it started coming out, closed it up. Topped up brake fluid and it was good to go. No second person needed, no pumping of brakes. Very little mess.

My emergency brakes I adjusted according to the FSM, and they do grab, but I need to adjust the cable a bit, as I seem to have to really pull it almost straight up if I am parked on a hill to grab well enough. Not leaving a sense of security with me (I can always pop it in gear as well, but... well... I like things to work like they should!) So I will get after seeing what adjustments I can do with the cable to tighten it up a bit next chance I have. The cable is the only thing I did not replace as it looks in really good condition.

I adjusted the parking brake cable end at the parking brake handle which made all the difference, seem like a little adjustment goes a long way. I still have to loosen mine up just a little bit more.

 

[Rigster]

Sefl Bleeding lol sounds weird

I can make it quick and painless, lol. Pop the top off the brake reservoir once you make the swap of the line to the new caliper (or you just want to bleed the brakes) open the bleeder valve and let gravity do its thing. Close up the bleeder once fluid is coming out. Top up reservoir and do the other side. Then top up the reservoir for the last time and test.

 

[Rigster]

I adjusted the parking brake cable end at the parking brake handle which made all the difference, seem like a little adjustment goes a long way. I still have to loosen mine up just a little bit more.

Awesome, thanks for this. I was going to start there as this makes the most sense. If it would be at the back, then it would be a PB Blaster fest. I should be able to get out there and adjust sometime tonight/this weekend.

 

[JDM Journeys]

I do self bleeding practically every time I work on my truck. But it has nothing to do with the brakes...

Darren those calipers are pretty fancy looking. Were you tempted for just a moment to paint them red?