- Thread starter
- #241
Took my 3 boy over to a friends place to help him get ready for winter - he heats his house with a wood stove, so the boys and I went to help with the firewood on his property.
Builds 2002 HZJ76 Build (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Rigster
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #242
On our final trip around the Sandon area we decided to try to get to Idaho Peak. It is a lookout tower above Sandon that has been a tourist attraction, but with the flooding they had a couple of years ago washed out the road near town not allowing people to get to the top.
We managed to make it up there with our ATV's.
So you understand the map, you can access one of two parking areas, and from there, it is a hike along the ridge to a lookout tower on Idaho Peak. I am not sure why it is called Idaho Peak, I am pretty sure you cannot see Idaho from there.
Here is a picture of the lookout tower from the parking area.
Closeup of the tower
Parking area:
The next day, we packed everything up and headed back home! Next year we are planning to camp in a couple of new areas in order to access trails we have not been on yet!
We managed to make it up there with our ATV's.
So you understand the map, you can access one of two parking areas, and from there, it is a hike along the ridge to a lookout tower on Idaho Peak. I am not sure why it is called Idaho Peak, I am pretty sure you cannot see Idaho from there.
Here is a picture of the lookout tower from the parking area.
Closeup of the tower
Parking area:
The next day, we packed everything up and headed back home! Next year we are planning to camp in a couple of new areas in order to access trails we have not been on yet!
- Thread starter
- #243
Nothing major going on, and now that winter has come with a sudden vengeance (we got a foot and a half of snow in a couple of days) I was getting the plow on the quad and pushing snow a fair bit.
After not finding anything to my liking as far as LED floods that would fit the signal recesses in the ARB bumper, I decided to finally fill the holes with the provided signal lights and wire them in. Total job, about an hour, and that was with fiddling a bit looking where to access the existing signal wires. I finally decided to pop the covers off the front signals and discovered a large gap where I could easily feed the wires and connect within the front signal housing.
There is a fairly large gap area down towards the bottom corner where I fed the wiring:
Wired it in and the signals are now working in the bumper...
With the colder weather, I am also noticing that I am getting air into the fuel... and the likely culprit is the fuel filter housing with the primer pump. The original with the heater attachment is no longer available, so I settled for the new replacement without the heater as there is no other choice. I did hit Dave Stedman up to see what he could find and if there was anyone selling reseal kits for the older ones. He found NADA....
So I now have one of these on the way in case anyone else comes across this issue on their machine:
After not finding anything to my liking as far as LED floods that would fit the signal recesses in the ARB bumper, I decided to finally fill the holes with the provided signal lights and wire them in. Total job, about an hour, and that was with fiddling a bit looking where to access the existing signal wires. I finally decided to pop the covers off the front signals and discovered a large gap where I could easily feed the wires and connect within the front signal housing.
There is a fairly large gap area down towards the bottom corner where I fed the wiring:
Wired it in and the signals are now working in the bumper...
With the colder weather, I am also noticing that I am getting air into the fuel... and the likely culprit is the fuel filter housing with the primer pump. The original with the heater attachment is no longer available, so I settled for the new replacement without the heater as there is no other choice. I did hit Dave Stedman up to see what he could find and if there was anyone selling reseal kits for the older ones. He found NADA....
So I now have one of these on the way in case anyone else comes across this issue on their machine:
I don't know if the 76 has the same plugs on the front turn signals, but I picked up a couple of sets of these to hook up my bumper turn signals:
They are the same as the plug on the turn signal harness, so I can just make a short adapter harness with a male plug at one end, a female plug at the other and a pigtail that goes to the bumper light.
They are the same as the plug on the turn signal harness, so I can just make a short adapter harness with a male plug at one end, a female plug at the other and a pigtail that goes to the bumper light.
Great write up on the install. Did mine when I got the bumper on and did nearly the same though I think I ran mine through the rubber grommet.Nothing major going on, and now that winter has come with a sudden vengeance (we got a foot and a half of snow in a couple of days) I was getting the plow on the quad and pushing snow a fair bit.
After not finding anything to my liking as far as LED floods that would fit the signal recesses in the ARB bumper, I decided to finally fill the holes with the provided signal lights and wire them in. Total job, about an hour, and that was with fiddling a bit looking where to access the existing signal wires. I finally decided to pop the covers off the front signals and discovered a large gap where I could easily feed the wires and connect within the front signal housing.
View attachment 3172964
There is a fairly large gap area down towards the bottom corner where I fed the wiring:
View attachment 3172965
View attachment 3172972
View attachment 3172974
Wired it in and the signals are now working in the bumper...
With the colder weather, I am also noticing that I am getting air into the fuel... and the likely culprit is the fuel filter housing with the primer pump. The original with the heater attachment is no longer available, so I settled for the new replacement without the heater as there is no other choice. I did hit Dave Stedman up to see what he could find and if there was anyone selling reseal kits for the older ones. He found NADA....
So I now have one of these on the way in case anyone else comes across this issue on their machine:
View attachment 3172989
The heated primer is still available actually as I just received two in the mail this past week. Part number: 23380-17461
Attachments
- Thread starter
- #246
Ok, it has been a long time coming and I have been a little too busy with life and family to spend much time with the Land Cruiser. However I took today to (I had hoped) to get this air in fuel issue resolved.
So, I had proceeded to hook up clear hose and checked for air coming in from the tank before the fuel filter. That was good, so looks like the issue was isolated to the fuel filter/filter housing area. I inspected the plastic float on the bottom for cracks, and siliconed the 2 wires that go through it for good measure.
I changed the fuel filter and put a new housing on. Interestingly, I noted that when pumping the primer, that was actually pumping air into the system. This was on the brand new OEM primer housing.
Regardless, I pumped and pumped until it was rock hard. Then tried turning the engine over, and continued this method, along with cracking the injector lines, but oddly, nothing. No air, let alone fuel was coming out. I have been a diesel owner and operator for over 30 years, owning GM/Chev/Dodge/VW/Kenworth/Freightliner/International/MACK/Toyota x6/Detroit Diesel and have never had this issue with ANY of them. So I was rather stumped! I was starting to appreciate the frustrations that @JDM Journeys was going through when hunting down air in the system!
Also keep in mind that when I parked the Land Cruiser a couple of weeks ago, it started ok and ran fine, just when working it at above 2000 rpm I would experience slight hesitations. So I proceeded to check the screen at the inlet to the fuel pump under the banjo in case it was gunked up. It was really clear and clean. I proceeded to button that back up. Set the torque wrench to 38ft-lbs and was tightening it when I was thinking it should be clicking already... aaaaand it stripped. OMG!! Can't believe I just did that... not sure if it was the cold, or what, but the torque wrench didn't click... tested it on a lug nut, and it clicked almost right away.... weird.
I really hope this never happens to anyone else, but... if it does, here is how to save yourself about $3000 for a new fuel pump.
Grab a 9.2mm M12x1.5 timesert (don't use helicoils) - I got mine here
You will need a 31/64'' drill bit for a pilot hole
You will need a 17/32'' drill bit for the flange lip on the time sert.
Grab a M14x1.5 tap
You will need some high strength(red) thread locker.
Drill and tap the hole a good 1/2'' down into the pump.
I did it with the screen inside, then would often use a shop vac with a 7/16 hose on the end that I could put over the hole and clean out the shavings. Do this often, do not let them build up as you work.
After it was tapped, I coated the timesert liberally with thread locker and used the old banjo bolt to screw it in. You could also use a M12x1.5 bolt and nut if you are worried about the banjo bolt getting stuck. However, if you tighten it in and let the thread locker cure you should not have any issue getting it out. 24hrs to cure, I left it 48hrs as it is just above freezing in my shop.
Installed timesert:
Sorry for the crappy phone pics...
So I got that all buttoned up again and pressurized, but still not getting any diesel out the injector lines. I even put in a lift pump temporarily to 'push' the fuel through (5-9psi) to the pump. Still NADA!
Ok, by this time I was getting a little frustrated. When that happens I take a break and start over in my thinking. This in turn made me start over in the troubleshooting. I disconnected the return line to the fuel tank and blew some air through it to make sure it was not plugged. That was clear. Then I figured I should check the fuel cutoff solenoid, even though it was working fine when I parked it. Because if fuel can't leave the pump it won't go in either, and it would certainly explain all the wierdness I was experiencing.
Well, lo and behold... solenoid was unresponsive, dead. So now I have one on order:
Here are the other parts you will need (you need 3x90201-12109 washers):
So now waiting for a fuel cutoff solenoid and will resume this fix at that time....
So, I had proceeded to hook up clear hose and checked for air coming in from the tank before the fuel filter. That was good, so looks like the issue was isolated to the fuel filter/filter housing area. I inspected the plastic float on the bottom for cracks, and siliconed the 2 wires that go through it for good measure.
I changed the fuel filter and put a new housing on. Interestingly, I noted that when pumping the primer, that was actually pumping air into the system. This was on the brand new OEM primer housing.
Regardless, I pumped and pumped until it was rock hard. Then tried turning the engine over, and continued this method, along with cracking the injector lines, but oddly, nothing. No air, let alone fuel was coming out. I have been a diesel owner and operator for over 30 years, owning GM/Chev/Dodge/VW/Kenworth/Freightliner/International/MACK/Toyota x6/Detroit Diesel and have never had this issue with ANY of them. So I was rather stumped! I was starting to appreciate the frustrations that @JDM Journeys was going through when hunting down air in the system!
Also keep in mind that when I parked the Land Cruiser a couple of weeks ago, it started ok and ran fine, just when working it at above 2000 rpm I would experience slight hesitations. So I proceeded to check the screen at the inlet to the fuel pump under the banjo in case it was gunked up. It was really clear and clean. I proceeded to button that back up. Set the torque wrench to 38ft-lbs and was tightening it when I was thinking it should be clicking already... aaaaand it stripped. OMG!! Can't believe I just did that... not sure if it was the cold, or what, but the torque wrench didn't click... tested it on a lug nut, and it clicked almost right away.... weird.
I really hope this never happens to anyone else, but... if it does, here is how to save yourself about $3000 for a new fuel pump.
Grab a 9.2mm M12x1.5 timesert (don't use helicoils) - I got mine here
You will need a 31/64'' drill bit for a pilot hole
You will need a 17/32'' drill bit for the flange lip on the time sert.
Grab a M14x1.5 tap
You will need some high strength(red) thread locker.
Drill and tap the hole a good 1/2'' down into the pump.
I did it with the screen inside, then would often use a shop vac with a 7/16 hose on the end that I could put over the hole and clean out the shavings. Do this often, do not let them build up as you work.
After it was tapped, I coated the timesert liberally with thread locker and used the old banjo bolt to screw it in. You could also use a M12x1.5 bolt and nut if you are worried about the banjo bolt getting stuck. However, if you tighten it in and let the thread locker cure you should not have any issue getting it out. 24hrs to cure, I left it 48hrs as it is just above freezing in my shop.
Installed timesert:
Sorry for the crappy phone pics...
So I got that all buttoned up again and pressurized, but still not getting any diesel out the injector lines. I even put in a lift pump temporarily to 'push' the fuel through (5-9psi) to the pump. Still NADA!
Ok, by this time I was getting a little frustrated. When that happens I take a break and start over in my thinking. This in turn made me start over in the troubleshooting. I disconnected the return line to the fuel tank and blew some air through it to make sure it was not plugged. That was clear. Then I figured I should check the fuel cutoff solenoid, even though it was working fine when I parked it. Because if fuel can't leave the pump it won't go in either, and it would certainly explain all the wierdness I was experiencing.
Well, lo and behold... solenoid was unresponsive, dead. So now I have one on order:
Items
| # | Number | Name | Make | Qty | Qty Supplied | Price | Subtotal | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 223906A511 | SOLENOID ASSY, FUEL CUT | Toyota | 1 | 102.48$ |
Here are the other parts you will need (you need 3x90201-12109 washers):
So now waiting for a fuel cutoff solenoid and will resume this fix at that time....
JDM Journeys
Moderator
Goodness me. We are BOTH waiting for F/C solenoids now! I ordered mine when megaZ was having a new years sale. Not shipped yet... 
(My solenoid's resin housing crunched when I was undoing the tiny 8mm on top...)
Hope this solves your issue once and for all. We should just move south, buddy. Warm diesel is a happy diesel!
(My solenoid's resin housing crunched when I was undoing the tiny 8mm on top...)Hope this solves your issue once and for all. We should just move south, buddy. Warm diesel is a happy diesel!
- Thread starter
- #248
Yeah, methinks the warmer climate would be very lovely right about now!! If thems folks will have us. Having land cruisers will likely up our chances a fair bit!Goodness me. We are BOTH waiting for F/C solenoids now! I ordered mine when megaZ was having a new years sale. Not shipped yet...
Hope this solves your issue once and for all. We should just move south, buddy. Warm diesel is a happy diesel!
I did not realize you needed a solenoid as well! I ordered mine direct from the middle east/partsouq because I am still waiting for an order from megazip I made on black friday.
Sorry for your problems but 
for sticking with it and also figuring out how to fix a “unfixable “ problem. Hopefully the shutoff valve will fix the problem.
for sticking with it and also figuring out how to fix a “unfixable “ problem. Hopefully the shutoff valve will fix the problem.
- Thread starter
- #250
Thanks. Owning a land cruiser is not for the faint of heart to be sure. Most of us would not be able to afford one of these if we could not do our own maintenance and troubleshooting, especially with the stealerships charging $200/hr and ridiculous pricing on parts.Sorry for your problems but
Eg: For expediency, I did locate a solenoid in Canada, but even with exchange and shipping from overseas it would have been twice as much to purchase locally.
I appreciate the kind words, sir.
Applause. Very well done. 
Thank you for sharing the solution.
I sincerely hope the solenoid will show up quickly and will make your Cruiser cruising happily again. Good luck Ralf
Thank you for sharing the solution.I sincerely hope the solenoid will show up quickly and will make your Cruiser cruising happily again. Good luck Ralf
- Thread starter
- #252
Quick update... I am actually out of town visiting my mom on her birthday, but the solenoid came in and I spent until 11pm Friday night getting that in. I recommend attaching the lead on top FIRST, but leave the nut loose so it can spin, then install the solenoid.
To bleed everything, I yanked all the glows, cracked all injector lines (left them attached but loose) then cranked the engine for about 15 seconds.. fuel was coming out the lines.
Tightened the injector lines again, replaced the glows and it fired right up. Next week I will do some test trips to see if I am still getting any air in the system. Oh, and I also double clamped all hose connectors with the decent worm gear clamps that can get tighter.
Fingers crossed....
To bleed everything, I yanked all the glows, cracked all injector lines (left them attached but loose) then cranked the engine for about 15 seconds.. fuel was coming out the lines.
Tightened the injector lines again, replaced the glows and it fired right up. Next week I will do some test trips to see if I am still getting any air in the system. Oh, and I also double clamped all hose connectors with the decent worm gear clamps that can get tighter.
Fingers crossed....
- Thread starter
- #253
I had some time to play around with the cruiser, it is sure nice to be driving it around again... however, I am STILL getting air from somewhere... sigh
So... with a little frustration, I picked up the good quality diesel fuel rubber hose (15ft = $100). Ordered a new pickup/filter and lines for the tank, as I suspect that if there is a small pinhole in the metal lines, it is likely near the rear as the clamps back there were rusted and fell apart when I was installing the worm gear style ones. I ordered new metal lines for along the frame from the tank to the fuel filter housing way back on black friday and apparently they are due next week. (try not to use megazip)
So today I pulled all the lines from the fuel filter housing to the tank, and started to remove the tank, but decided I will drain it first to make it more manageable. I just need to pick up a couple more jerry cans.
But to be honest I actually prefer to work like this... while you are in there... just do it all and do it right. So at the end of this, I will have all new: pickup and sender in the tank, and all new fuel lines to the filter housing, new filter housing, new water separator, and new rubber fuel lines from the filter housing to the pump. The only original fuel lines will be the injectors and the metal one that runs along firewall up top. And of course, the fuel tank will still be original.
Can you say SHEESH!?!
So... with a little frustration, I picked up the good quality diesel fuel rubber hose (15ft = $100). Ordered a new pickup/filter and lines for the tank, as I suspect that if there is a small pinhole in the metal lines, it is likely near the rear as the clamps back there were rusted and fell apart when I was installing the worm gear style ones. I ordered new metal lines for along the frame from the tank to the fuel filter housing way back on black friday and apparently they are due next week. (try not to use megazip)
So today I pulled all the lines from the fuel filter housing to the tank, and started to remove the tank, but decided I will drain it first to make it more manageable. I just need to pick up a couple more jerry cans.
But to be honest I actually prefer to work like this... while you are in there... just do it all and do it right. So at the end of this, I will have all new: pickup and sender in the tank, and all new fuel lines to the filter housing, new filter housing, new water separator, and new rubber fuel lines from the filter housing to the pump. The only original fuel lines will be the injectors and the metal one that runs along firewall up top. And of course, the fuel tank will still be original.
Can you say SHEESH!?!
Well done! Big job! Couldn’t agree more. Do it once and do it right. Fingers crossed this solves the issue!
- Thread starter
- #255
No doubt! I cannot see how this would not resolve this. The fuel pump would be the next thing to look at, but it seems to be working fine, there is good power and boost when the fuel is there. So providing the steady supply of un-aerated fuel is the first port of call...
Yeah that’s just it. Doesn’t seem like it but it very well could be something that isn’t visible to the eye which it is or you’d have seen it and fixed it by now. The frustration is real.
JDM Journeys
Moderator
You go buddy! Funny enough we seem to be paralelling through this. I'm getting stumble at start up and white hazy smoke for a minute or so.
I just ordered fuel line. I still have air getting in from somewhere too. My fuel injectors still show bubbles when cracked while running, so I'm getting air ingestion too. I ordered 10mm which should be here Tuesday. Fingers crossed for both of us. I haven't gone back past the filter yet like you're doing, but we shall see.
I just ordered fuel line. I still have air getting in from somewhere too. My fuel injectors still show bubbles when cracked while running, so I'm getting air ingestion too. I ordered 10mm which should be here Tuesday. Fingers crossed for both of us. I haven't gone back past the filter yet like you're doing, but we shall see.
- Thread starter
- #258
What clinched it for me was when during my troubleshooting I connected a temp lift pump to push the fuel to the filter and I used a chunk of clear hose and I could see the air bubbles coming from the tank end. That was when I double clamped everything back to the tank (annnd realized I needed a new solenoid on top of everything else, lol)
When I was STILL getting air in the fuel with my test runs around town, I decided to go full-on medieval and tear it ALL OUT, tank and all and refurbish. Otherwise, you are almost begging to go through all this again with the next little piece of metal line or rubber hose, or pickup filter, or.... or....
- Thread starter
- #259
Ok, so I have everything out from the fuel filter housing back... I decided to also order a new filler spout and gasket as well as the current one is looking pretty nasty. Will take a look inside to see the condition of the internals and whether or not to clean out the inside (besides a rinse). That will likely have to wait until next week.
I also tested the lines I pulled off the frame and they appeared to be ok, they held vacuum:
Before dropping the tank, I decided to empty it so it would be easier and safer to extract. Rather than drain it out the bottom and create a huge mess, I used one of these (holds 9 liters) from amazon for around $100:
End result is what counts
![59064[1].jpeg](data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg xmlns%3D'http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg' width='1399' height='1049' viewBox%3D'0 0 1399 1049'%2F%3E "59064[1].jpeg")
I also tested the lines I pulled off the frame and they appeared to be ok, they held vacuum:
Before dropping the tank, I decided to empty it so it would be easier and safer to extract. Rather than drain it out the bottom and create a huge mess, I used one of these (holds 9 liters) from amazon for around $100:
End result is what counts
@JDM Journeys this makes 3 of us dealing with air getting in somewhere down the lines.
Good luck @Rigster! I’m sure your efforts will not be for not!
Where did you guys order line from?
Good luck @Rigster! I’m sure your efforts will not be for not!
Where did you guys order line from?
