2000 LX470 - sitting 5 years - In Georgia USA. I need some help. How to check if engine is seized?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

A little nerdy but I ran this whole thread through my ChatGPT (trained on the FSM and IH8MUD 100-series sources). Here’s a concise set of troubleshooting vectors for where to go next — not a diagnosis. Disclaimer: AI can hallucinate, and I’ve been progressively teaching mine how to navigate ‘Mud.

Your condition — smooth in P/N, strong vibration only in D/R at idle, truck sat 5 years, now CEL + VSC — lines up with patterns seen across other 100-Series cases.

1. Engine running rough under load (most common cause of D-only vibration).

On these trucks, a slightly uneven idle may feel totally smooth in Park but becomes obvious when the torque converter loads the engine. Seen repeatedly here:
  • Vibration in gear, none in Park (engine roughness amplified):
    shtbrwn86

    Thread 'Vibration at idle in gear?'

    Just recently noticed a vibration in my 99 LX when I am in Drive or Reverse. No vibration in Park.

    I can feel it in the steering wheel when I come to a stop most of the time. Sometimes it sits there and it's fine but I would say the majority of the time there is a vibration. The vibration is audible as well (the sound is louder and vibration is greater in reverse.)

    At first I thought it would be the exhaust boom issue, but I have the frame weight still installed. I know there are more things involved in the TSB and not just the frame weight, but if I have that weight then I would have...
This often ends up being ignition (coil/plug), air metering, or a minor fuel issue.

Next step: read the codes. CEL + VSC almost always means “engine problem first, stability system second.”

2. Engine/trans mounts magnifying the roughness.

After long storage, mounts can sag or partially separate. They don’t cause a misfire, but they noticeably amplify any unevenness when in gear.
  • Gear-engaged vibration tracked to mount condition:
    C

    Thread 'Vibration and shake at Idle'

    Hi,

    I have 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser 4.7 V8 with around 61k miles on it, I've recently got it fully serviced.

    But it has developed some problem, as the car is started and left at idle in gear it shakes and vibrates, not too much but is noticeable once at the driver seat. Once the gear is shifted to neutral or parking the vibration disappears. Every time I stop at the traffic lights with foot on brake pedal the car vibrates again i.e when ever stationary and in gear.

    I have changed the Spark plugs and checked all the ignition coils by changing them over for the new ones and it still...
A visual load test (hood open → foot on brake → shift into D) will tell you a lot.

3. Intake/IAC issues from long sitting (5 years).

Gummed throttle body, sticky IAC valve, or varnished injectors can cause an idle that’s “almost good” in Park but unstable once loaded.
  • Idle issues after sitting / IAC behavior in 100-Series:
    lt403

    Thread '2001 470 vibration/groaning while stopped in drive'

    got my car back from the dealer after service and throttle body cleaning. a day or two later my wife told me that she felt a vibration/groaning when the car is in drive and the foot on the brake. it goes away when you release the brake and start to drive. the car rides fine but when you stop, it happens again. took it back to the lexus dealer and they told me i needed new motor and transmission mounts. they put them in ($500 plus) but the problem still exists. i left the car with them and the next day they called me stating that there was a technical service bulliten out dealing with this...
Cleaning the throttle body & IAC is a common fix after long storage.

4. NVH contact points (cover, hoses, exhaust).

100-Series trucks commonly develop idle vibrations in gear from simple contact points — engine cover, intake tube, heat shield, or exhaust rubbing when the engine torques slightly in D/R.

(Not the source threads’ main topic, but repeatedly confirmed in replies within the linked “vibration in gear” threads above.)

Quick check: temporarily remove the engine cover; verify no hoses or shields are touching.

Recommended order:
  1. Pull codes (CEL + VSC is your biggest clue).
  2. Check ignition (coil connections, plugs; swap a suspect coil if misfire code).
  3. Inspect engine/trans mounts under load.
  4. Check for simple vibration transmitters (cover, hoses, exhaust contact).
  5. Clean throttle body + IAC, and continue diluting old fuel.
 
Last edited:
Use a code reader. Check for current and pending DTCs (codes). Parts store will read for free.

But first check fluid levels:

It's not uncommon, a first timer, drains wrong pan.

Check oil after engine warm up on vehicle level. Turn engine off, let sit ~10 minutes. Pull dipstick, wipe and reinsert with word OIL readable while stand at LH fender. After full insertion, pull dipstick out a read level. If over full mark, remove oil filter and drain/pour into clean catch container. Replace oil filter, after lubing its seal. Repeat.

Check Auto transmission (A/T) fluid (ATF) level. In those 100 series, with A/T dipstick.
Get up to operating temp of ~165F. Note: Best to check ATF temp, through tech stream. Engine idling, foot on brake, shift through all gears. Bring up RPM (1,400) with foot on brake while in D and shifting into lower forward gears. This loads A/T, bring up ATF temp. Note: Do not load A/T in R. Alternatively: Drive until ATF #1 to operating temp. Park vehicle on level ground. Shift to park, and while engine idling, check ATF level. Pull dipstick, wipe and reinsert. Once fully inserted, remove and check level. Note: Do not bend dipstick. Guide dipstick in, using both hands.
 
A code reader would probably tell you where to start looking. If it's spark plug related, a reader would tell what plugs are misbehaving.
 
ok, going to pick up a code reader then one day when I grow up based on what all is wrong, upgrade to the the Tech Stream. That thread seems a bit, verbose to figure out at the moment. Thank you all. And laughing at "shotgunning parts" @Batameez I get it. I just really thought I some how messed up an oil change... which remains to be seen..
Super77 said:
A little nerdy but I ran this whole thread through my ChatGPT (trained on the FSM and IH8MUD 100-series sources). Here’s a concise set of troubleshooting vectors for where to go next — not a diagnosis. Disclaimer: AI can hallucinate, and I’ve been progressively teaching mine how to navigate ‘Mud.

Your condition — smooth in P/N, strong vibration only in D/R at idle, truck sat 5 years, now CEL + VSC — lines up with patterns seen across other 100-Series cases.

1. Engine running rough under load (most common cause of D-only vibration).

On these trucks, a slightly uneven idle may feel totally smooth in Park but becomes obvious when the torque converter loads the engine. Seen repeatedly here:
  • Vibration in gear, none in Park (engine roughness amplified):
    shtbrwn86

    Thread 'Vibration at idle in gear?'

    Just recently noticed a vibration in my 99 LX when I am in Drive or Reverse. No vibration in Park.

    I can feel it in the steering wheel when I come to a stop most of the time. Sometimes it sits there and it's fine but I would say the majority of the time there is a vibration. The vibration is audible as well (the sound is louder and vibration is greater in reverse.)

    At first I thought it would be the exhaust boom issue, but I have the frame weight still installed. I know there are more things involved in the TSB and not just the frame weight, but if I have that weight then I would have...
This often ends up being ignition (coil/plug), air metering, or a minor fuel issue.

Next step: read the codes. CEL + VSC almost always means “engine problem first, stability system second.”

2. Engine/trans mounts magnifying the roughness.

After long storage, mounts can sag or partially separate. They don’t cause a misfire, but they noticeably amplify any unevenness when in gear.
  • Gear-engaged vibration tracked to mount condition:
    C

    Thread 'Vibration and shake at Idle'

    Hi,

    I have 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser 4.7 V8 with around 61k miles on it, I've recently got it fully serviced.

    But it has developed some problem, as the car is started and left at idle in gear it shakes and vibrates, not too much but is noticeable once at the driver seat. Once the gear is shifted to neutral or parking the vibration disappears. Every time I stop at the traffic lights with foot on brake pedal the car vibrates again i.e when ever stationary and in gear.

    I have changed the Spark plugs and checked all the ignition coils by changing them over for the new ones and it still...
A visual load test (hood open → foot on brake → shift into D) will tell you a lot.

3. Intake/IAC issues from long sitting (5 years).

Gummed throttle body, sticky IAC valve, or varnished injectors can cause an idle that’s “almost good” in Park but unstable once loaded.
  • Idle issues after sitting / IAC behavior in 100-Series:
    lt403

    Thread '2001 470 vibration/groaning while stopped in drive'

    got my car back from the dealer after service and throttle body cleaning. a day or two later my wife told me that she felt a vibration/groaning when the car is in drive and the foot on the brake. it goes away when you release the brake and start to drive. the car rides fine but when you stop, it happens again. took it back to the lexus dealer and they told me i needed new motor and transmission mounts. they put them in ($500 plus) but the problem still exists. i left the car with them and the next day they called me stating that there was a technical service bulliten out dealing with this...
Cleaning the throttle body & IAC is a common fix after long storage.

4. NVH contact points (cover, hoses, exhaust).

100-Series trucks commonly develop idle vibrations in gear from simple contact points — engine cover, intake tube, heat shield, or exhaust rubbing when the engine torques slightly in D/R.

(Not the source threads’ main topic, but repeatedly confirmed in replies within the linked “vibration in gear” threads above.)

Quick check: temporarily remove the engine cover; verify no hoses or shields are touching.

Recommended order:
  1. Pull codes (CEL + VSC is your biggest clue).
  2. Check ignition (coil connections, plugs; swap a suspect coil if misfire code).
  3. Inspect engine/trans mounts under load.
  4. Check for simple vibration transmitters (cover, hoses, exhaust contact).
  5. Clean throttle body + IAC, and continue diluting old fuel.
Click to expand...
2001LC said:
Use a code reader. Check for current and pending DTCs (codes). Parts store will read for free.

But first check fluid levels:

It's not uncommon, a first timer, drains wrong pan.

Check oil after engine warm up on vehicle level. Turn engine off, let sit ~10 minutes. Pull dipstick, wipe and reinsert with word OIL readable while stand at LH fender. After full insertion, pull dipstick out a read level. If over full mark, remove oil filter and drain/pour into clean catch container. Replace oil filter, after lubing its seal. Repeat.

Check Auto transmission (A/T) fluid (ATF) level. In those 100 series, with A/T dipstick.
Get up to operating temp of ~165F. Note: Best to check ATF temp, through tech stream. Engine idling, foot on brake, shift through all gears. Bring up RPM (1,400) with foot on brake while in D and shifting into lower forward gears. This loads A/T, bring up ATF temp. Note: Do not load A/T in R. Alternatively: Drive until ATF #1 to operating temp. Park vehicle on level ground. Shift to park, and while engine idling, check ATF level. Pull dipstick, wipe and reinsert. Once fully inserted, remove and check level. Note: Do not bend dipstick. Guide dipstick in, using both hands.
Click to expand...
I swear i did the only plug in the cetner with the down facing plug. I mean the washer fit on the plug, the stuff smelled like oil and tasted like it. Thank god I was wearing goggles.. Got a little in the corner of my mouth. Had a 10qt oil reservoir thing it filled it up say 70% or so. dark black viscous, slight odor of gasoline. You have me rechecking but.. i believe i did the oil pan. Looked like the same stuff that came out of the oil filter. Cant verify taste though from the filter. heh, learned from that mistake.
89BIGBLUE said:
A code reader would probably tell you where to start looking. If it's spark plug related, a reader would tell what plugs are misbehaving.
Click to expand...
 
Don’t worry, you did the oil. The blue crush washer confirms it. Plus you’d be WAY overfilled if you’d added 7q into a full crankcase.
 
@MissTake I use the same Mobil combo as you did.
209a filter which is a little longer than the regular one.
And 7 qts of 5w-30 Mobil extended mileage even after pouring a little in the filter. (You can't fill the filter with oil since it is mostly on its side.)
I have been using this combo for close to 15 years. :cheers:
 
Hugh Heifer said:
@MissTake I use the same Mobil combo as you did.
209a filter which is a little longer than the regular one.
And 7 qts of 5w-30 Mobil extended mileage even after pouring a little in the filter. (You can't fill the filter with oil since it is mostly on its side.)
I have been using this combo for close to 15 years. :cheers:
Click to expand...

Thank you. Everything i saw was just pouring maybe a tsp in and lubricating the outside ring with finger? I should pour some inside next time?
 
A few pile ons.

Do not "hand tighten" the filter. You will hate yourself later. Make sure you put oil on the gasket (and make sure the old gasket came off with the old filter). Spin the filter on until it makes contact, then turn an additional 1/2 turn. Any more than that and you will be earning new cuss words when you do the next oil change trying to get the filter off.

The engine is designed to hold 7 quarts of oil, put 7 qts of new oil in it. If the dipstick shows high then you have the wrong dipstick, or somehow didn't drain all of the old oil out (unlikely).

As others have said, get the codes before you fire up the parts cannon and drain your bank account. If it runs smooth at when not in gear, its probably not plugs and coils. You definitely should check the plugs on a 2UZ, and make sure they are not loose. I've found loose plugs on 50% of the 2UZs I've helped guys with. If it gets rough when put in gear, my experience is the engine mounts are probably bad. You can't tell without removing them, and at that point you may as well replace them.
 
Bisho said:
A few pile ons.

Do not "hand tighten" the filter. You will hate yourself later. Make sure you put oil on the gasket (and make sure the old gasket came off with the old filter). Spin the filter on until it makes contact, then turn an additional 1/2 turn. Any more than that and you will be earning new cuss words when you do the next oil change trying to get the filter off.

The engine is designed to hold 7 quarts of oil, put 7 qts of new oil in it. If the dipstick shows high then you have the wrong dipstick, or somehow didn't drain all of the old oil out (unlikely).

As others have said, get the codes before you fire up the parts cannon and drain your bank account. If it runs smooth at when not in gear, its probably not plugs and coils. You definitely should check the plugs on a 2UZ, and make sure they are not loose. I've found loose plugs on 50% of the 2UZs I've helped guys with. If it gets rough when put in gear, my experience is the engine mounts are probably bad. You can't tell without removing them, and at that point you may as well replace them.
Click to expand...
Copy that. Should I loosen it before i start getting it to temperature again? Or is it already too late? Do it when it gets cold out here..?

The vehicle was on for say... 30-40 minutes at temp - maybe less time. I called it quits after the vibration started happening. Is it heat that expands it and makes it tight? I've seen people having to basically destroy the thing to get it off. Yes I would like to avoid that.

As far as the dipstick goes, It seems that due to the size/angle of the car I should stand next to the front left side and pull it out that way, not from in front of the vehicle as it does bend awkwardly when trying to take it out and streak the oil as it comes out. I'm 6'1 but its still a weird angle. I believe someone mentioned that here but it seems logical. I've been doing it from the front bumper. I'm pretty tall but yeah its awkward now thinking about it.,
 
Last edited:
I would loosen and reset the filter. As far as the dipstick, I pull it most of the way out, then grab it close to the tube to clear the end cleanly.
 
Counterpoint: after having an oil filter once unscrew itself and spew out half a crankcase of oil, I hand tighten hard like you did. No harm done. Much preferable to wrestle with removing a filter, than losing your oil. With the gravel shield removed, it’s easy to get your hand(s) around the filter.
 
I hand tighten my oils filters. Been doing it since 1993 with no issues. No need to go crazy tight but I give it a good grip and twist!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom