2000 LX470 - sitting 5 years - In Georgia USA. I need some help. How to check if engine is seized?

[Trunk Monkey]

No ABS codes tied to the seats, you're fine to unplug/plug them with the battery connected. Be a really good time to put some sound deadening material all over too, esp. the cargo area. For the batting, look up automotive jute backing. OEM is probably available too.

 

[Super77]

No ABS codes tied to the seats, you're fine to unplug/plug them with the battery connected. Be a really good time to put some sound deadening material all over too, esp. the cargo area. For the batting, look up automotive jute backing. OEM is probably available too.

Was thinking the OP may eventually get to the seat belts, which, if mold is an issue, are probably a horror show. Unplugging the pretensioner squib would throw a code, no?

I’m honestly kind of jealous looking at this project. Landing a nice rig for a fair price is one thing, but getting one cheap enough to just renew everything and knowing that you’re not over investing really makes it feel special.

 

[Zuberg]

Nice work - totally worth the work to get it looking fresh again. Any quality carpet or rug store will be able to sell you jute underlayment. I used that in prior vehicles with solid results. On my 100 I've been using this (which is shockingly cheaper than quality jute from my local carpet stores these days....):

Under Carpet Lite™ Sound Absorption & Insulation - 70" x 24" (11.6 sq. ft.)

Under Carpet Lite is a superior sound decoupling material for those hard to cover areas like door liners, rear decks, headliners and more.

www.designengineering.com

Made in USA and when you call the company a stateside employee answers! Highly recommend them. Underlayment works great on the roof as well - just get some 3m spray adhesive.

For the center console metal bits, clean prime and rattlecan. For whatever reason they came bare metal from Mr. T and every one of those brackets in every truck probably has some level of rust at this point.

 

[MissTake]

You’ll get ABS codes if you disconnect any of the system before disconnecting the battery, but in an early truck like yours the codes in an otherwise functional can be DIY cleared with a paper clip and a couple of wires at the engine bay diagnostic port.

No ABS codes tied to the seats, you're fine to unplug/plug them with the battery connected. Be a really good time to put some sound deadening material all over too, esp. the cargo area. For the batting, look up automotive jute backing. OEM is probably available too.

Copy that. I was hoping i didn't some how confuse the (ECU?) of the vehicle. I've seen people saying you disconnect and wait 30 minutes, then other camps that just say fully D/C before you do. I mean whatever is done is done now. Will update post for the record though.

Was thinking the OP may eventually get to the seat belts, which, if mold is an issue, are probably a horror show. Unplugging the pretensioner squib would throw a code, no?

I’m honestly kind of jealous looking at this project. Landing a nice rig for a fair price is one thing, but getting one cheap enough to just renew everything and knowing that you’re not over investing really makes it feel special.

Seatbelts are definitely not supposed to be feces brown, I made a clean spot and figured that out. I thought they were like medium brown as a color, but nope. (you can see it in the pics) I plan to extend all the way powerwash with simple green and a APC cleaner. Dont be too jealous and keep an eye on this thread.. who knows how far i'll get. And I cant really haggle on here as everyone knows the history -- lol. But hopefully i'll get it all going. Should I be disconnecting the squib to pull all the way out, shut door, and power wash them?

Nice work - totally worth the work to get it looking fresh again. Any quality carpet or rug store will be able to sell you jute underlayment. I used that in prior vehicles with solid results. On my 100 I've been using this (which is shockingly cheaper than quality jute from my local carpet stores these days....):

Under Carpet Lite™ Sound Absorption & Insulation - 70" x 24" (11.6 sq. ft.)

Under Carpet Lite is a superior sound decoupling material for those hard to cover areas like door liners, rear decks, headliners and more.

www.designengineering.com

Made in USA and when you call the company a stateside employee answers! Highly recommend them. Underlayment works great on the roof as well - just get some 3m spray adhesive.

For the center console metal bits, clean prime and rattlecan. For whatever reason they came bare metal from Mr. T and every one of those brackets in every truck probably has some level of rust at this point.

Thank you for this. I figure since its all at this stage, might as well. Just trying to at least get carpet done while I can still air dry stuff outside. Its going to start raining again soon. When you say clean prime and rattlecan, is that a product? Clean Prime? Sorry for the basic questions, im figuring this all out as I go along.

 

[Zuberg]

I was a bit hasty in my response. Clean the metal, prime it, then paint it. I think I did a quick pass with the wire wheel, coat of phosphoric acid to convert the rust. Then paint.

I know a lot of folks have success with the power washer on the seatbelts. A more gentle approach is to soak the belts in some cleaner - I use LA awesome cleaner diluted in hot water. After they soak a bit, use a steam cleaner to wash all the crud out. Remove the top belt holder from the B and C pillars and you can get most of the belt into the bucket.

 

[Super77]

I was a bit hasty in my response. Clean the metal, prime it, then paint it. I think I did a quick pass with the wire wheel, coat of phosphoric acid to convert the rust. Then paint.

I know a lot of folks have success with the power washer on the seatbelts. A more gentle approach is to soak the belts in some cleaner - I use LA awesome cleaner diluted in hot water. After they soak a bit, use a steam cleaner to wash all the crud out. Remove the top belt holder from the B and C pillars and you can get most of the belt into the bucket.

+1 on seatbelts. Don’t power wash them. Mine cleaned up nice with a couple of successive soaks in dish detergent water and a pass with a soft bristled brush.

 

[MissTake]

Copy that. Im going to try to tackle seatbelts today. I've cleaned the carpet about 4 times with extractor, shes never going to be perfect so calling it quits on that. Going to do floor matts anyway. Turned dark brown water to light brown. The headliner out of everything is pristine compared, no mold grew on it or anything. I've been using chlorine dioxide bio-bombs on this thing from time to time. I plan to put all the cleaned trim and carpet back in, do a final one, then reassemble.

Anyone know what the holes that fill with water are, in the rear cargo area? If you open the tailgate and look directly left to the wheel well, or right, there are two holes about the size of an orange/apple (when the carpet is removed/if the wheel well trim is removed theres a gigantic white thing thats right above it, i assume rear AC related or something, its one hell of a unit) the right hole is filled with water that I have noticed. Its rained a few times, my third break light was busted so I just stuffed some plastic in the hole for the time being until I order a new one, i see that comes up a lot. The sunroof doesn't work, it didn't work in my 4runner either so I'm just going to seal it shut and enjoy the view.

Does anyone know what that is called so I can research why its filling with water? I haven't run the vehicle since my last post. Ill take pix later if my words don't word well enough, thanks again everyone for all the help.

 

[jestlurnin]

Post up some pictures of what you are referencing.

 

[MissTake]

Post up some pictures of what you are referencing.

Here it is, circled in blue.

 

[MissTake]

Update:

Did the first ever oil change i've done in my life.

Firstly, drove it around a few laps in the neighborhood to get engine to temperature. Got a fleeting CEL I guess haven't really 'driven' it that far outside of cutting off and on in my drive way and doing little laps in my yard just to enjoy the thing, lol.

Secondly, did oil change per youtube videos and research. I put in 7 quarts of 5w-30 synthetic. Fun fact, being underneath a car held up by a Daytona Floor jack and jack stands is completely terrifying. Drained oil, replaced with Toyota blueish washer, i was about to put the plug in with the new washer because it didn't look like there was a washer there, however after i poked with a screwdriver the old black/orange washer came off., used a M1209a oil filter. It was definitely larger than the previous one.

Thirdly, engine now has a very exciting vibration in drive modes D/R. and CEL / With both VCS lights on. Sort of a bummer but Im imagining that the cars been sitting for so long, doesn't a computer reset until you get miles on the clock to recycle the Codes? The dipstick is impossible to read. It seemed like it was in the middle of M/F after the change. Turned engine on for 30 secs, gave it a rev, checked for leaks, then drove it around for like maybe 200 yards total, just driving around my yard doing laps.

I torqued the drain bolt to hand tight then a tad more with the wrench. I did the oil filter by hand and a rag, the skid plate was on so I did it as tight as i could but not all of my power. Hands only had so many angles. So hand tight plus?

I used Mobil 1 Synthetic 5x30 Extended performance.

Fourthly, the car was in need of tire air so I addressed that, and curiously enough the AHC system kicked in (Even though the buttons dont seem to do anything in the car, it stays on N). The front moved up some then i believe back down. I was just caught off guard by it. My driveway is sort of slopped a tad so one side of the car was definitely lower than the other side. when I was all done, i removed the floor jacks then tried to ease the car down with the daytona floor jack. The landcruiser won that battle and it sorta came down a bit rougher than i would have liked. Not sure if that rattled anything as far as the VSC lights or Exhaust but will check later. I lifted it just high enough to wiggle under the car so the wheels were up about half an inch from the ground. I floor jacked the center of the skid plate circle, then used the jacks at the areas noted in the manual.

I checked the oil level this morning, checked for leaks. its hard to tell but it seems like it is Full+ ? it smears past the F from taking it out not sure how to pull it out so it doesn't touch the sides. Im reading you should check after running it for a few minutes running -- Again it is very hard to read this. So ill try that again. My initial plan was always to do the fluids then take down to my mechanic to get the full lifetime of repairs needed for this vehicle. A little bummed that the oil change didn't turn out perfectly, the car runs but its definitely shaking like a old v8 muscle car just in drive and brakes applied, i haven't got it up to speed. But it feels like i shouldn't be driving it too much like this. The Knob for H-N-L is visibly vibrating. Wasn't like that before I touched it lol. Live and learn I suppose.

Is it possible that the PO did non synthetic and I just loosened all the sludge and what not that kept the engine from bucking like a bronco? Would over filling be an issue (again not sure how but, obviously im new at all of this) Or would a sudden drop on the tires possible loosen motor mounts/brakets/something to cause the vibration? Is it some how possible that its overfilled? Should I revert to the smaller oil filter?

I'm going to win this battle but could use some advice on life in general, but, the symptoms above mentioned and the order of events. Thank you all.

 

[Batameez]

Sludge being loosened won't cause issues like that. Usually more of an instant oil pressure loss followed by knocking. You probably need new plugs at minimum, and I'm finding that coils are a common failure on the 2UZ at this age. Otherwise, inspect ignition wiring for rodent activity.

 

[Super77]

1) I’ve done more oil changes than I can count, on a dozen different cars. It is very unlikely that your oil change is directly related to the vibration, but you MAY have disturbed something in the process. However if the truck has been sitting unmaintained for 5 years, don’t blame yourself.

2) I don’t know about the oil filter compatibility. I always use OEM Toyota filters purchased from the dealership so I know they’re not counterfeit. When one of the Southwest dealers has their regular 25% off sale, you can buy these for about $5-6 each.

3) folks here may disagree with me, but don’t over index on the whole synthetic vs conventional thing. A lot of this marketing driven. These are Toyota motors, engineered to operate in bad conditions with varying quality resources. I doubt that owners in South America or North Africa give this much thought. What’s more important is regular oil changes with the right weight and volume, and a quality filter. If you’re curious or concerned, you can send a sample to Blackstone Labs and for $45 they’ll give you an analysis for metal particles, coolant, or contaminants that may suggest engine issues. Worth doing the first time you change oil because it helps you baseline your maintenance investments.

4) an oil change is probably the second most elementary maintenance after tire air. Good on you for taking ownership. FWIW I do it with the gravel shield off, since that’s an opportunity to check for leaks and other issues. Your center jack point is ok, but you’re crushing against your gravel shield, not the subframe directly. At a minimum, I’d use a rubber cushion there, but ideally remove the gravel shield before you jack. It’s about a half dozen M8 bolts IIRC. Not difficult. I also pressure wash the bottom of the engine so that gunk is not obscuring my view and leaks have a clean “canvas” to show up on. Mechanics won’t do this. It’s also a pleasure to DIY on a clean surface.

5) with any fluid change, always verify you can add BEFORE you drain. Not as big a deal with engine oil since the cap rarely gets stuck, but if/when you’re doing the transfer case and differentials, crack the fill plugs FIRST.

6) NEVER crawl under a car with a jack alone. Use at least 2 known-reliable jack stands under the frame rails. When possible I additionally place 6x6 lumber blocks under the wheels. Lift only the minimum amount you need to access what you’re working on. Don’t worry about dropping it down when you’re done. I just twist the jack handle and let it fall. The truck bounces WAY harder than that when I take it off road .

7) I have trouble reading the dipstick too. I admit that the first time I changed the oil, I drained/refilled 4 times because the dipstick kept showing overfill. I finally measured out the correct amount per the FSM, ignored the overfill shown on the dipstick, and it settled down to “normal” after a couple of drives. I always let my oil drain overnight, so I may have emptied some galleys that needed time to refill.

Now get going on the transmission, transfer, and differential fluids . Lots of good threads on that here. DIY will save you enough $$ to buy some nice tools!

 

[GTV]

Don’t just put in 7q because that’s the capacity of the system. Put in 5.5-6, run it for a minute, shut it off and check the stick. Add more oil if needed and repeat.

 

[Super77]

Sludge being loosened won't cause issues like that. Usually more of an instant oil pressure loss followed by knocking. You probably need new plugs at minimum, and I'm finding that coils are a common failure on the 2UZ at this age. Otherwise, inspect ignition wiring for rodent activity.

I’ve heard advice for under-maintained motors to first do a “sacrificial” oil change with cheap oil and a detergent additive, drain after ~50 miles, and refill with quality oil. Kinda flushes out the gunk? Anyone tried this?

 

[MissTake]

Sludge being loosened won't cause issues like that. Usually more of an instant oil pressure loss followed by knocking. You probably need new plugs at minimum, and I'm finding that coils are a common failure on the 2UZ at this age. Otherwise, inspect ignition wiring for rodent activity.

1) I’ve done more oil changes than I can count, on a dozen different cars. It is very unlikely that your oil change is directly related to the vibration, but you MAY have disturbed something in the process. However if the truck has been sitting unmaintained for 5 years, don’t blame yourself.

2) I don’t know about the oil filter compatibility. I always use OEM Toyota filters purchased from the dealership so I know they’re not counterfeit. When one of the Southwest dealers has their regular 25% off sale, you can buy these for about $5-6 each.

3) folks here may disagree with me, but don’t over index on the whole synthetic vs conventional thing. A lot of this marketing driven. These are Toyota motors, engineered to operate in bad conditions with varying quality resources. I doubt that owners in South America or North Africa give this much thought. What’s more important is regular oil changes with the right weight and volume, and a quality filter. If you’re curious or concerned, you can send a sample to Blackstone Labs and for $45 they’ll give you an analysis for metal particles, coolant, or contaminants that may suggest engine issues. Worth doing the first time you change oil because it helps you baseline your maintenance investments.

4) an oil change is probably the second most elementary maintenance after tire air. Good on you for taking ownership. FWIW I do it with the gravel shield off, since that’s an opportunity to check for leaks and other issues. I also pressure wash the bottom of the engine so that gunk is not obscuring my view and leaks have a clean “canvas” to show up on. It’s also a pleasure to work on a clean surface. Mechanics won’t do this.

5) with any fluid change, always verify you can add BEFORE you drain. Not as big a deal with engine oil since the cap rarely gets stuck, but if/when you’re doing the transfer case and differentials, crack the fill plugs FIRST.

6) NEVER crawl under a car with a jack alone. Use at least 2 known-reliable jack stands under the frame rails. When possible I additionally place 6x6 lumber blocks under the wheels. Lift only the minimum amount you need to access what you’re working on.

7) I have trouble reading the dipstick too. I admit that the first time I changed the oil, I drained/refilled 4 times because the dipstick kept showing overfill. I finally measured out the correct amount per the FSM, ignored the overfill shown on the dipstick, and it settled down to “normal” after a couple of drives. I always let my oil drain overnight, so I may have emptied some galleys that needed time to refill.

Don’t just put in 7q because that’s the capacity of the system. Put in 5.5-6, run it for a minute, shut it off and check the stick. Add more oil if needed and repeat.

Seems like I got youtubed. i wasn't aware that you put in 5.5 - 6 and check. Ok I can muster up the courage to do this again. @Super77 -- I had 2x 3 ton jackstands and a 3 ton floor jack. I lifted with the floor jack from the gravel shield -- placed the jacks, then settled the floor jack to 'lock' the standing jacks in place. I gave it a bit of floor jacking' just to be tight. Then I slammed into the car a ton myself( I used to be a high school DB) to see if it was good to go. Seemed ok. Just so you know I'm not doing it with the floor jack alone. hehe. You can rest well knowing that. However, yeah, I was thinking of taking a wheel off and wedging it under as well.

I also didn't realize i needed to verify BEFORE I added. I just waited until the oil pan was only dripping like... small dots around the oil plug. It would build up and drip down, maybe 30 seconds or more before a drip. As I was trying to get the plug in, there would be occasional drips.
At this point, im thinking I need to just do the whole thingn all over again, not dump 7 quarts in and see what happens? Or let drip overnight?

@GTV

Ok, thank you for this info. It seemed like there was some variation in what people do on this forum ingeneral. Some are 6.6, others are 7. I saw you can, if you're fast enough, unthread the plug and dump it that way. Or should I just redo the whole thing you think and at least reduce that issue by doing it as you're saying?

@Batameez

The oil pressure is High to medium after the change and after start up. Its been that way since I've owned it. there isn't a drop, however I did see a Rat the other day and had to scare it out by banging on the car and using a leaf blower. Interesting you mention that. Maybe its just a perfect timing for any underlying issues.

So... Try again:

1. Leak out oil / redo with 6 QT's instead of 7?
2. Hope the vibration goes away?
3. Is this ok to drive 3 miles to mechanic with vibration at idle in D/R if it continues / or flat bed?

Thank you again for all of the help.

 

[Batameez]

Honestly the extra quart is the least of the issues. Are you getting a flashing CEL? Any active codes?

 

[Super77]

So... Try again:

1. Leak out oil / redo with 6 QT's instead of 7?
2. Hope the vibration goes away?
3. Is this ok to drive 3 miles to mechanic with vibration at idle in D/R if it continues / or flat bed?

1. If you’re still reading high on the dipstick after running the engine for 15 min, consider draining and “sneaking up” on the refill as mentioned.

2. It’s unlikely to magically go away. Rough idle can correlate to poor ignition, so that would be my trouble shooting path. Plugs or coil packs (or both). Start with plugs - you’ll be removing the coil packs to access them, and you can inspect. Lots of good threads on that topic. User @2001LC is a fountain of knowledge.

3. If you have AAA and can flatbed for free, I’d do it. 3 miles probably won’t hurt but I don’t know the rest of your truck’s state.

 

[MissTake]

Honestly the extra quart is the least of the issues. Are you getting a flashing CEL? Any active codes?

No flashing CEL, before i did oil change i drove it around and it popped up after 15 mins or so. ( most its ever been since purchased ) and the CEL popped on. Constant. Then went away as I was getting back home. (Not sure if it matters, but I live in a quite hilly area. Downhill it was on, up hill it went away? could just be random coincidence)

AFTER the oil change I was getting CEL, solid, plus VSC/and the light next to it that says VSC/Off.

1. If you’re still reading high on the dipstick after running the engine for 15 min, consider draining and “sneaking up” on the refill as mentioned.

2. It’s unlikely to magically go away. Rough idle can correlate to poor ignition, so that would be my trouble shooting path. Plugs or coil packs (or both). Start with plugs - you’ll be removing the coil packs to access them, and you can inspect. Lots of good threads on that topic. User @2001LC is a fountain of knowledge.

3. If you have AAA and can flatbed for free, I’d do it. 3 miles probably won’t hurt but I don’t know the rest of your truck’s state.

Ok, thats the path ill go down. Plugs and Coil packs. ... how hard could it be... lol... famous last words. Yeah perhaps it was just how things were going to go regardless of oil change or not. I'm heavily invested after gutting the whole thing and putting it back together and hand cleaning everything. Oh by the way, thank you for the seatbelt suggestion. Super77. I just want to do 1 camping trip, please god. However, for clarification, its not a rough idle as far as once the car is engaged. Before switching to a driving gear /D/R the Idle is buttery smooth, when I put it into drive thats when i get the cabin vibrating and the H-N-L handle vibrating. It all goes away in N. I sanity checked, and i definitely did not empty the differentials. was definitely the oil.

And yes, my truck is quite the mystery bag. Ill flatbed if plugs and coils doesn't resolve anything and possible bleed after eying the dipstick with a electron microscope.

Thank you. Hopefully ill get some video of me crossing a small 2-4 inch pond one day and we can all celebrate. So far just enjoying the learning experience and working on it with my kid. Thats kinda priceless.

 

[Super77]

No flashing CEL, before i did oil change i drove it around and it popped up after 15 mins or so. ( most its ever been since purchased ) and the CEL popped on. Constant. Then went away as I was getting back home.

AFTER the oil change I was getting CEL, solid, plus VSC/and the light next to it that says VSC/Off.



Ok, thats the path ill go down. Plugs and Coil packs. ... how hard could it be... lol... Yeah perhaps it was just how things were going to go regardless of oil change or not. I'm heavily invested after gutting the whole thing and putting it back together. I just want to do 1 camping trip, please god. However, for clarification, its not a rough idle as far as once the car is engaged. Before switching to a driving gear /D/R the Idle is buttery smooth, when I put it into drive thats when i get the cabin vibrating and the H-N-L handle vibrating. It all goes away in N.

Interesting. I missed that.

Baselining an unmaintained 100 includes new plugs tightened properly - so I’d keep that on the to-do list - but what you’re describing sounds more driveline related, or possibly still the engine but only with a load applied. Above my pay grade an armchair diagnostician .

Since a trans drain fill is also on the baselining list, maybe prioritize that since it’s the first driveline component behind the engine. Doing a drain/fill is easy but only removes 1/3 of the ATF. You need to either 1) do a “poor man’s flush,”or 2) do 6 successive “dilution cycles” of drain/fill to change 90+% of it. Avoid the power flush that Iffy Lube markets.

Is the engine smooth when revving? Is it rough right when the trans is engaged or only when you’re moving? Does shifting the transfer case make any difference? All that helps to narrow the root cause.

 

[MissTake]

Interesting. I missed that.

Baselining an unmaintained 100 includes new plugs tightened properly - so I’d keep that on the to-do list - but what you’re describing sounds more driveline related, or possibly still the engine but only with a load applied. Above my pay grade an armchair diagnostician .

Since a trans drain fill is also on the baselining list, maybe prioritize that since it’s the first driveline component behind the engine. Doing a drain/fill is easy but only removes 1/3 of the ATF. You need to either 1) do a “poor man’s flush,”or 2) do 6 successive “dilution cycles” of drain/fill to change 90+% of it. Avoid the power flush that Iffy Lube markets.

Is the engine smooth when revving? Is it rough right when the trans is engaged or only when you’re moving? Does shifting the transfer case make any difference? All that helps to narrow the root cause.

Yes, before i got my hands on it, idle was good, D/R was smooth. Revs rev and no stuttering. There is the "CLUNK" into a gear but that was happening before I did anything, I saw thats a common thing? Looked into greasing videos. even though NOW there is vibrating in D/R, its driving normally, stays at a middle engine temp, and oil goes HIGH then to middle just about, No shunts/stops/weirdness. I had a 2001 audi a6 come to think of it, and when the trans was going, you'd get that ghosting slipping hesitation going through gears, like its holding its breath, however not getting that. Thats as much as I've experienced with my months of ownership.

SO now its, Turn Car on. Buttery smooth. Put car into D... car starts vibrating, stays constant doesn't get worse, just feels like im in a tractor, rpms stay constant, but the car is just shaking. I had a friend with a old datsun he supped up.. Its like a hard vibration of a modded car. Not like a drink would be spilling if it was in the truck. Just noticeable compared to how smooth it was. previously.

Id describe it as a high frequency vibration. If you look at the mirrors (if your'e a fan of jurassic park) its vibrating. Id say left to right. This is full brake + in Drive. I can't really tell if its vibrating whilst moving. But I assume so.