200 Series Tire and Wheel Size Database (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter MScruiser
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255 
They drive great. I don’t have much experience with wide tires but, given the experience that I have (3 different heights of 255mm wide tires sprinkled with some 285 experience), I think that an increase in height is less impactful than an increase in width and a change in tread type. Don’t quote me on this!
Anyway, yeah, they feel fast and nimble. I think suspension does a lot more to handling than tire width, but I pedal to the metal on 50 up to South Lake Tahoe all the time.
@TeCKis300, you have me scared. Are you commenting on the novelty of my setup or the proximity of my spare to the panhard bar?
Anyway, yeah, they feel fast and nimble. I think suspension does a lot more to handling than tire width, but I pedal to the metal on 50 up to South Lake Tahoe all the time.
@TeCKis300, you have me scared. Are you commenting on the novelty of my setup or the proximity of my spare to the panhard bar?
Sorry and the response was mostly in jest. If it works for you and is what you like, rock on. It'll work fine.
If you're looking for more nuance and detail, happy to go there too.
Okay, glad you aren't too alarmed by the clearance. And yes, I'm eager to hear what you think! Bear in mind this is my first experience with a 200 series, and also bear in mind I absolutely agonized over wheel and tire selection for months, and still excited to agonize some more!
Edit:
Some further opinions on the setup include:
1) The wheel width (8.5") is arguably too wide for the tire (255mm aka 10"). I don't intend to wheel hard or deflate to anywhere less than 18 psi. Hearsay tells me that I won't have an issue. If I break a bead on the trail, I'll let ya'll know!
2) Even with 0 offset and a narrow tire, I still am slightly rubbing the KDSS bolt.
3) From a looks perspective, I really don't like the amount that the tires stick out from the body. I'd much prefer a 10-20mm offset wheel. Bulging tires make the rig look so much fatter and lower than it should, in my opinion. For me, slightly wider than perfectly flush is what I want. Not sure if I'll ever get that given #2 listed above.
4) The 200 series has SO much stock bumper on the front and rear--my approach and departure angles are real crap compared to my V8 4Runner's body. I'll have to live with that for a while, because aftermarket bumpers are out of my budget (and I really like the stock look).
Connor
Edit:
Some further opinions on the setup include:
1) The wheel width (8.5") is arguably too wide for the tire (255mm aka 10"). I don't intend to wheel hard or deflate to anywhere less than 18 psi. Hearsay tells me that I won't have an issue. If I break a bead on the trail, I'll let ya'll know!
2) Even with 0 offset and a narrow tire, I still am slightly rubbing the KDSS bolt.
3) From a looks perspective, I really don't like the amount that the tires stick out from the body. I'd much prefer a 10-20mm offset wheel. Bulging tires make the rig look so much fatter and lower than it should, in my opinion. For me, slightly wider than perfectly flush is what I want. Not sure if I'll ever get that given #2 listed above.
4) The 200 series has SO much stock bumper on the front and rear--my approach and departure angles are real crap compared to my V8 4Runner's body. I'll have to live with that for a while, because aftermarket bumpers are out of my budget (and I really like the stock look).
Connor
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Here's some other considerations and trade space
- Impact to suspension geometry, particularly scrub radios. This has implications to cornering traction and steering stability / feedback / fatigue
- Offset creating addition loads on the steering rack and potential concerns for long term durability. In lesser cars more extreme offsets is what breaks tie rod ends but fortunately the 200-series is robust
- Watch those fenders, both front and rear, if you're really off-roading I've had to roll my fenders to makes sure I can stuff tires all around. Even with narrows, your outside sidewall is 1/2" further out. You may want reduce travel with lowered bump stops.
- You'll likely need a body mount chop to ensure enough safe clearance under all conditions
What year?
I’m not seeing the same
Spreadsheet that was here before? User error?
Spreadsheet that was here before? User error?
FJRanger
SILVER Star
I reshared the link a few pages back.
2013
All good ideas, and ones I've come across before thanks to this forum (a fantastic resource).
1) Scrub ratios compromising handling - I don't feel any difference in handling. Rips mountain roads great.
2) 0 offset wheels compromising steering components - agree, but not too concerned about this one. Have you ever heard of someone breaking a tie rod on a 200 series? I'd be curious to know how often this happens (not doubting that it does).
3) Yes, TBD. I don't wheel this car but I drive it fast off road and definitely don't want to break myself or the car via wheel-fender smash!
4) Also TBD. I feel like this is best practice though. Aside from cost, I don't see why you wouldn't do this mod.
Do you still have your 35"x12.5" setup installed?
Aside from the practical concerns we're discussing here,, some additional thoghts:
I dislike how squatted my car looks with the big tires, zero offset wheels and 2" lift. I'm hoping to get 10-25mm offsets to work (maybe I'll step down to 255/80r17) and install a 1" body lift. Love the car, but would like to take it a step closer to an 80 series than a Highlander in the looks department.
1. This is a nuance that you won't understand until you understand. At which point you can't unsee. In a parking garage, the tires will squeal incessantly in tight turns, and that's a hint. If you're in low traction environments where sliding traction is much lower than static traction, like rain or winter conditions, this will jump out at you the first time you break traction in what would seem to be a very moderate turn. This is just how the geometries pan out, because offsets affects critical dimensions. The front tires are no longer working together to point exactly towards the same place in a turn and will force slip, rolling the tire sidewall over. Tire wear and scrubbed shoulders will also show this in time. What feels like more lively steering now, will be fatiguing to drive on long trips due to bump steer.
2. Agreed.
3. The 200-series has a ton of travel beyond the fenders both front and rear. With big diameter tires, it would be almost 3".
4. Agreed.
Yes, still on 35x12.5s. They're almost worn and time for a new set. Maybe bigger again for the hobby of it.
@TeCKis300 , very helpful, thanks for the insights. I should mention that I've paid close attention to your posts since I started lurking here years ago and owe you a beer for all I've learned from you!
Could you clarify what you mean with #3? Are you saying I'm 3" into the fenders with bigger tires?
I just noticed that you were one of the individuals who just installed a body lift (in the thread that's very hard to find via forum search but I bookmarked it last night). That's exciting! Did you notice a difference in handling?
What offset tire would you recommend for these 255/85r17? Maybe taking into consideration the possibility that I downsize to 255/80r17 (Falken Wildpeaks)?
Could you clarify what you mean with #3? Are you saying I'm 3" into the fenders with bigger tires?
I just noticed that you were one of the individuals who just installed a body lift (in the thread that's very hard to find via forum search but I bookmarked it last night). That's exciting! Did you notice a difference in handling?
What offset tire would you recommend for these 255/85r17? Maybe taking into consideration the possibility that I downsize to 255/80r17 (Falken Wildpeaks)?
3. The uptravel is well beyond the fender lip, and the tread of the tire may go past the fender by 2-3" fully stuffed. I don't have a great picture of it really maxed out, but you get the idea. Solution is ensure the tire will stuff without taking out the fender, cut the fender lip, body lift, limit uptravel, or a combination thereof.
This picture is without the BL, but it worked out great. A mild .75" BL didn't make any different in drivability, which is the best kind of lift IMO.
I would recommend +25 offset for your narrow setup. It'll walk a better balance of trades.
Is this the 35x12.5's on +35mm(60mm wheel with 1" spacer) offset listed in your sig?
Just trying to get an idea of where my 35x11.5's on +35mm methods will end up.
Yessir. This was gently on the factory bump stops. There's likely another 1" of travel if engaging the stop dynamically. My plastic fender liner is modded to lay on top of the fender lip tabs with tabs also pushed up to make room.
11.5s should work for clearance against the metal fender, but watch the uptravel into the liner and possibly into the window fluid reservoir.
You should be good in the rear too. Where I had to roll the fender lips slightly. Again, watch uptravel. It'll like to kiss the mud flap on deep articulated travel.
Sweet. We're going to need more pictures.
If I'm looking at the specs right, that's still a pretty beefy tire at 34.4" x 12.4"?
Watch out for those plastic clips in the fender liner. Though it will self clear if you don't manually clear it
Also watch the UCA when at full compression and lots of steering angle.They lie about the width. They are called a 315/70 but really run more like a 285/80R17.Sweet. We're going to need more pictures.
If I'm looking at the specs right, that's still a pretty beefy tire at 34.4" x 12.4"?
Watch out for those plastic clips in the fender liner. Though it will self clear if you don't manually clear it
This is them face to face with the oem tires
