200 Series Tire and Wheel Size Database (15 Viewers)

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If you can take a picture down the flanks, to give a better sense of poke, we should be able to help you confirm what offset it is. It should also be stamped somewhere on the wheel barrel or hub.

Do you have the model number of the wheel? Is it MRWZMR30578558800 from the screen cap you posted prior? That would be another way to confirm.

Well... they are 0 offset. Shop says it’s a miscommunication, which it may be. Who knows, at this point I am not sure it matters. :censor:

My options are BMC for $300 on the 2nd or spend $600-$750 to change to the 18” wheel which does have the +25mm off set and wait until July 11th to do it.

I don’t mind the ride with the wider stance but I am not to keen on tampering with the “frame.”

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That's a pretty good price for a correctly done Bmc. But Do you have a lot of Confidence in the shop at this point... Bmc done right isn't an issue really. It gets reboxed in. However done wrong the body mount rubber can get melted and then will have to be replaced.
 
That's a pretty good price for a correctly done Bmc. But Do you have a lot of Confidence in the shop at this point... Bmc done right isn't an issue really. It gets reboxed in. However done wrong the body mount rubber can get melted and then will have to be replaced.

Found a local hobbiest from the Tacoma forums that will do it. He has a lot of good recommendations so pretty confident in his abilities. No way I would take it back to the same shop!
 
Here's what I am running:

Wheels: ICON Rebound 17"
Tires: 285/75 R17 BFG A/T KO2
2" Ironman Lift Kit
The front tires were rubbing against the plastic on the front bumper inside the wheel well so the dealership had to trim the plastic.

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Here's what I am running:

Wheels: ICON Rebound 17"
Tires: 285/75 R17 BFG A/T KO2
2" Ironman Lift Kit
The front tires were rubbing against the plastic on the front bumper inside the wheel well so the dealership had to trim the plastic.

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Looks great. Hope you post some more!
 
Well, I got close to getting the Icon Vector 5 in Satin Black but they are out of stock until...September. :/

Anybody have any good alternative suggestions? Looking for (1) an understated look, (2) no fake beadlock, and (3) lightweight.


I am in same boat. Cannot find the ICON Vector 5's.
 
The Vector 5 is awful - looks so hideous that everyone asks about them, horrible offset that tucks 34s perfectly, dangerously low weight limit that only allows for an 11k pound GVRW.... 🤣

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Man that looks soo good. I mean bad.
 
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I am having a helluva time finding a wheel tire combo. I want Nitto G2 in 285/75R17 or even 285/70R18 with the ICON Vector 5, but as noted, those are backordered. Finding a lot of other choices not available also. Trying to search has been a pain, because they want to match to vehicle, not by tire size. It seems +25mm offset seems to work in that size, but finding that offset is scarce. Anyone have a tire and wheel supplier they recommend?
 
Well... they are 0 offset. Shop says it’s a miscommunication, which it may be. Who knows, at this point I am not sure it matters. :censor:

My options are BMC for $300 on the 2nd or spend $600-$750 to change to the 18” wheel which does have the +25mm off set and wait until July 11th to do it.

I don’t mind the ride with the wider stance but I am not to keen on tampering with the “frame.”

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I think that my concern is that with that size tire and the offset, even if you get the body chop, you will experience issues in other, yet to be realized, scenarios. Will the tire fit in the well when fully compressed/articulated? At full lock?

I have the same tire but with a +25 offset. This is how close it is on the rear, where no turning is involved.

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I think that my concern is that with that size tire and the offset, even if you get the body chop, you will experience issues in other, yet to be realized, scenarios. Will the tire fit in the well when fully compressed/articulated? At full lock?

I have the same tire but with a +25 offset. This is how close it is on the rear, where no turning is involved.

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Yeeaahhh.... based on this I did a lot of searching and found a set of ICON wheels that will work with the correct offset. Will have to try and sell the methods to recoup some of the cost but seems better than trying to force them. Appreciate the help!!
 
@mcgaskins Are those Titanium color wheels?
 
Probably need spacers in the 3/4 to 1.25” range. You can run dtracs in 275/65r18 no spacers. I have done that no problem but they are pretty close to the uca.

Think this would work with 275/70R18 on the stock wheel with a 2in BP-51 lift and SPC UCA's without rubs?
 
Think this would work with 275/70R18 on the stock wheel with a 2in BP-51 lift and SPC UCA's without rubs?
My 275/70r18s rubbed the lower control arm (or whatever it is) on full steering lock after the BP51/SPC lift. Put on 1.25" Spidertrax spacer, moving them away for the arm, yet they then rubbed the plastics. Did a little trimming and now ok.
 
My 275/70r18s rubbed the lower control arm (or whatever it is) on full steering lock after the BP51/SPC lift. Put on 1.25" Spidertrax spacer, moving them away for the arm, yet they then rubbed the plastics. Did a little trimming and now ok.

What tires were they? How much trimming did you need to do?
 
What tires were they? How much trimming did you need to do?
Toyo Open Country ATIII, a fairly aggressive tire, but I don't know how close in actual size they are to the Duratrecs.

I removed the small "spoiler" plastic on the front (3-screws) and had to push the front wheel well plastic forward, and reset the screw to keep it that way. That has been a bit of a continual fight as once in a while I hear a rub; need to spend a little more effort there.

For the rear, it was just a matter of trimming the mudflap. I took a utility knife and cut a nice radius out of it where there was evidence of rubbing. Maybe 6-8" That was simple.

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The previous rub, driver's side KDSS arm thing.
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