200 Series Reliability (2 Viewers)

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Was the radiator weakness addressed in later model years?
The consensus is that it's an age thing (heat/cooling cycles) as mileage doesn't seem to be as correlated. I don't think we'll see later models (2014+) have issues until later, however I would expect them to experience the failure as the 2016+ models have the same design issue.
 
100 series had exact same weakness on its radiator...and identical in that it was the part label shape that created the crease that crack. Incredibly dumb that they keep making them with the same weakened structure... But oh well. My 100’s R blew on a similar timeline.
 
fwiw in my first 3 years with my 100, I have needed to replace the starter (contacts probably but went ahead with whole starter while we were in there), Steering Rack and AC compressor. This seems reasonable to me for a 18-20 year old vehicle.

None of your repairs left you stranded so I would say, if it gets you there and Back- its reliable
 
Was the radiator weakness addressed in later model years?
There’s an updated part number which I think started sometime after 2016. I have it in my truck now. I doubt it will solve the issue as Toyota is on their 5th generation of radiator part # for the 200 - I expect to have to replace mine again in another 75k miles.

Thankfully if you keep the occasional eye on the radiator it seems to give ample warning. The starter concerns me more - enough so that if I stop on a remote trail I won’t shut the engine off unless I plan to stay in that spot a while.
 
Just my experience:

2013 LC. Purchased new. Now has 270,000 miles.

The only repair item I have done so far was to address a coolant leak in the valley seal/gasket at 255,000 miles. I'm planning on "proactively" replacing some key items (starter, water pump, etc.) at 300K.

Reliability for me has been beyond measure. Haven't done any hard core wheeling with it, but I've pulled RVs, tractors, hay, sod and mulch by the pallets, and Lord knows what all else. Not to mention hauling my family to both coasts and beyond a couple of times.

Plan on keeping this one until 350-400K miles and then get another one. And I'll hang it to this fella and continue to have fun with it.

Joined MUD in 2010, posted only 172 times, bought a new LC and put 270k miles on it in 5 years and went 250k miles without a repair.

This is what I call the "silent majority".
 
There’s an updated part number which I think started sometime after 2016. I have it in my truck now. I doubt it will solve the issue as Toyota is on their 5th generation of radiator part # for the 200 - I expect to have to replace mine again in another 75k miles.

Thankfully if you keep the occasional eye on the radiator it seems to give ample warning. The starter concerns me more - enough so that if I stop on a remote trail I won’t shut the engine off unless I plan to stay in that spot a while.

Re: radiator, what give of warning signs are you looking for? The infamous hairline crack? I should take a pic of my radiator again and post it.

How about the starter, anything we should be on the look out for?

I have 99,450 miles on my 09 LX570. Wondering if I should have the radiator and starter replaced proactively. So far, I had to have the water pump replaced at 92k miles. No issues with the truck not starting, except of the rare odd loud "screech" noise I hear when starting, which oddly enough has not happened since I had an oil change with OW/20.
 
Re: radiator, what give of warning signs are you looking for? The infamous hairline crack? I should take a pic of my radiator again and post it.

How about the starter, anything we should be on the look out for?

I have 99,450 miles on my 09 LX570. Wondering if I should have the radiator and starter replaced proactively. So far, I had to have the water pump replaced at 92k miles. No issues with the truck not starting, except of the rare odd loud "screech" noise I hear when starting, which oddly enough has not happened since I had an oil change with OW/20.


Post photos of the radiator. Members pointed mine pretty quickly of a hair line crack. I went ahead and had upper hose, lower rose with clamps, idler pulley, tensioner, water pump, serpentine belt replaced. It was only 3 hours of labor.

Does anyone know how many hours labor is for replacement of starter.
 
Does anyone else with an LX hear a whoosh sound after shutting down from the front right area underneath the hood? It sounds “normal” just curious what it is.
 
Re: radiator, what give of warning signs are you looking for? The infamous hairline crack? I should take a pic of my radiator again and post it.

How about the starter, anything we should be on the look out for?

I have 99,450 miles on my 09 LX570. Wondering if I should have the radiator and starter replaced proactively. So far, I had to have the water pump replaced at 92k miles. No issues with the truck not starting, except of the rare odd loud "screech" noise I hear when starting, which oddly enough has not happened since I had an oil change with OW/20.

Yep the hairline radiator crack. There's a 200 series radiator PSA thread that has lots of photos of it. Clean off the top of your radiator around the raised portion and if you see any evidence of a mark eminating from the edge then it's starting and the days are numbered.

I don't think the starter typically gives a warning. For some people they've noticed that it might click but not start once, then work for for a bit, then it's just dead. Others haven't heard a click, it just goes dead on its own without warning. If yours ever fails to start when you push the start button, take note and plan to replace it ASAP. I understand it's a PITA to reach and the dealer probably charges a lot for labor. Whether you want to replace it proactively depends on how much of a hassle having your vehicle towed will be when it eventually goes. If you live in the city like me it's probably not a big deal but if you're on a trail and it goes what's your plan?

If the screech on startup is coming from the engine bay it's probably a weak tensioner or idler pulley.
 
the starters typically fail at the solenoid. there is a bypass to get you home if it dies out in the wilderness, or if you don't want to put it on a tow truck.
I believe there is a thread on the starter replacement and emergency jump procedure. takes two people to get the truck started this way, one to hold a jumper on the starter motor, and one to push the start button on the dash.

Kurt @cruiseroutfitters replaced their starter with an updated model number. Much smaller unit, easier to get in between the engine block and frame rail.
 
the starters typically fail at the solenoid. there is a bypass to get you home if it dies out in the wilderness, or if you don't want to put it on a tow truck.
I believe there is a thread on the starter replacement and emergency jump procedure. takes two people to get the truck started this way, one to hold a jumper on the starter motor, and one to push the start button on the dash.

Kurt @cruiseroutfitters replaced their starter with an updated model number. Much smaller unit, easier to get in between the engine block and frame rail.

3 people in my case, one on the button, one on the jumper cables at the battery and me underneath making contact. I could have shielded the long screw-driver I used and eliminated the battery guy :D



Funny the 200 Series starter motor came up several times on our CruiserFest trail ride this week. Several 200 owners had experienced the dead starter... this after we repaired a HZJ73 starter by shimming the super worn contacts with a dime, all in a remote desert hours from parts. The 200 doesn't leave this option. I may fix my old starter and carry it a a spare, having now done a couple swaps, I would begrudgingly do one in the field. :D


On the subject of 200 reliability, my similar thread here:
The things that fail and how they changed 100 vs. 200
 
3 people in my case, one on the button, one on the jumper cables at the battery and me underneath making contact. I could have shielded the long screw-driver I used and eliminated the battery guy :D



Funny the 200 Series starter motor came up several times on our CruiserFest trail ride this week. Several 200 owners had experienced the dead starter... this after we repaired a HZJ73 starter by shimming the super worn contacts with a dime, all in a remote desert hours from parts. The 200 doesn't leave this option. I may fix my old starter and carry it a a spare, having now done a couple swaps, I would begrudgingly do one in the field. :D


On the subject of 200 reliability, my similar thread here:
The things that fail and how they changed 100 vs. 200

Unfortunate Toyota can’t get these right. It was an issue on the 100, though gave you a significant warning before complete failure. Moreover, they seemed to fix the issue on 2004+ models. My cruiser and 4Runner V8 both have over 200k and crank just As strong as when they were new.

It doesn’t appear to be a heat thing either, since they are in similar locations.
 
When I replaced mine, the vent tube was full of carbon. Seems like a cycles/ wear item
 
Unfortunate Toyota can’t get these right. It was an issue on the 100, though gave you a significant warning before complete failure. Moreover, they seemed to fix the issue on 2004+ models. My cruiser and 4Runner V8 both have over 200k and crank just As strong as when they were new.

It doesn’t appear to be a heat thing either, since they are in similar locations.


The 100 starter is in a cooler spot theoretically (intake valley vs under the exhaust manifolds. That said the heat shield over the 200 might negate the issue. The 100 however is fully field serviceable (imo), replaceable contacts and in a place you *can* get to relatively easy on the side of the road. The 200 is not only sealed but twice as hard to remove and requires some serious effort. Fwiw, my 100 had 238k on the original starter when I sold it, still running on that one. I need to pull apart my old starter and see what the actual failure mode is, contacts, plunger, armature, etc.
 

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