1st time DIY - Front End Rebuild

[Broski]

The rotor doesn't look warped to me. it looks like something metallic is hitting half of the breaking surface area or the brake pad is contaminated, impregnated with something. Maybe the caliper isn't pressing the pad evenly to the surface, or the caliper isn't bolted on straight(not sure how it can't be unless something is bent) but that rotor looks like grinding is happening. I can see the snap ring comes off, the cv joint is further back in the knuckle and able to touch things while spinning on turns (BIG MAYBE HERE), but the snap ring is to keep that cv join flexing right a the right spot as where the center of the axle pivots, i don't know where the grinding would come from. but that rotor isn't right, maybe it is just the pictures. but take a look at your pads for sure.

I don't think the rotor looks warped either, looks like there is a issue with the pad like you said. I thinking there multiple issue going on.

 

[clx16]

Lets say the spindle is much worse than it looks in the picture. the groove is deep enough that it allows the hub to ride off center. that would tilt the rotor which is bolted to the hub, and the brake caliper is going to be in alignment with back of the spindle which isn't holding the hub center like it should. The caliper will be in the correct position. but the hub, rotor, tire/wheel will all be tilting in a the top.. I am not sure how bad it would have to be for that to happen, but if it is off, then would it cause the axle shaft to bind in the flange ever so slightly and cause it to un-evenly press on the snap-ring, popping it off? Just guessing here. stack up enough guesses and you can call it a theory or something...

 

[clx16]

can you take a look on the inside of your caliper to see if it is showing that it has been rubbing your rotor on the outside half of the disc?

 

[Broski]

can you take a look on the inside of your caliper to see if it is showing that it has been rubbing your rotor on the outside half of the disc?

View attachment 2639813

OK good eye clx16, looking at the bottom of this picture there no doubt in my mind that the rotor is the cause of the grinding.

 

[clx16]

@KO KO before you started jumping back in to this, did you grab the tire at 3 and 9 o'clock and try to see if there is play in the hub? and then do the same at 12 and 6 o'clock positions? I am thinking those nuts you used on the bearings may have striped their threads and hoped, giving instant play in those bearings. The pictures where i can see the threads where you are holding the nuts, i can't tell but they look like they are rounded off. I would bet a 5 dollar bill that hub was loose before you started working on it again.

here is one example of how you can make sure that your hub bearings are seated upon reassembly.

 

[KO KO]

Fed & watered & ready to continue. Definitely something strange happening with the rotors.



Here are pics from the initial build. No clue why I took these of the PS but none from the DS. The one with the front of the rotor isn’t the best (will need to zoom in) but it is clear there is no color change in the metal. The wear on the spindle is evident.

 

[clx16]

Ok good you found the issues. Loose bearings at least, maybe need new spindles, and it would be a good idea to put new rotors on.

I would replace those nuts with spindles and when you get it all back together drive around a little then come back and check for play. I do that for a few days until i get bored of it haha. Not needed to tighten again but it makes me feel good to keep checking for a while.

 

[ppc]

In my opinion in the picture below the wheel bearing is not properly packed with grease. There should be enough grease in the bearing where you can't see the ends of the rollers in the bearing. The picture of the hub with bearings removed also seems lacking grease unless it has been wiped clean. Sufficient grease between the hub bearings will keep any water contamination from happening. Grease is cheap compared to parts so use plenty of it. The video in post 46 clearly shows that the inner bearing is completely FUBAR most likely from the hub not seated fully nor the proper tightening of the spindle nuts. The groves on the thrust washer confirm that. Again put grease on those parts.

 

[Broski]

I agree with ppc those bearing don't have enough grease. google search how to hand pack a bearing

 

[KO KO]

That image was taken during re-tear down for the purposes. We wiped everything clean for easier grip for removal.

The post after my original posting of the picture shows the spindle after I have removed the hub.

Completed disassembly last night. Got tired & will reassemble today. Feeling better about how to set bearings properly after getting the DS on nice last night.

 

[masong]

Rotors will look that way from contacting the brake caliper body(usually accompanied by spongy brake pedal) due to loose/misadjusted wheel bearings. Nothing looks terrible here to me, more grease sure, but it isn't the cause. Hub spindle does show some hints wear but hard to say from pics. I bet it will be fine with the cleaned up Spindle nuts and new keyed washer.

 

[KO KO]

Loose bearings was definitely the issue on the PS. Everything has been reassembled & I feel good about it. Test drive felt & sounded good. No change in wheel play after a romp around the neighborhood & quick drive on the freeway.

I have a couple loose ends:

How do I get the front tie rod end off on the DS? The steering dampener seems to be keeping it from coming off.

Also, I did not mention this at the beginning because I thought I could drill them back out easily, but apparently not... I had a oil seal retainer bolt break off during the initial disassembly of the rebuild, two actually. All of them had rust & I replaced them today (the repair of the rebuild). Not sure what to do about this. Can I have the hole re-machined (not sure where to gonfor that anyways)? Just hunt around for a new knuckle housing (haven’t found any online yet)?

 

[masong]

Loose bearings was definitely the issue on the PS. Everything has been reassembled & I feel good about it. Test drive felt & sounded good. No change in wheel play after a romp around the neighborhood & quick drive on the freeway.

I have a couple loose ends:

How do I get the front tie rod end off on the DS? The steering dampener seems to be keeping it from coming off.

Also, I did not mention this at the beginning because I thought I could drill them back out easily, but apparently not... I had a oil seal retainer bolt break off during the initial disassembly of the rebuild, two actually. All of them had rust & I replaced them today (the repair of the rebuild). Not sure what to do about this. Can I have the hole re-machined (not sure where to gonfor that anyways)? Just hunt around for a new knuckle housing (haven’t found any

Assuming you are referring to the bolts that hold the felt/rubber/metal rings to the backside of the knuckle itself? If I remember correctly those are 8mm x 1.25 bolts, and there’s probably 10 on each knuckle?
Depending on the location of bolt that your a working on, it’s probably easiest to have the knuckle completely off the axle for the broken bolt extraction.
Broken bolts are tough, but once the head has popped off the tension on the threads is often released. This means that sometimes you can easily get the stud to turn if you can grasp the remaining bits that are proud of the hole. Otherwise the technique is to center punch the broken bolt(to give you a solid and centered place to start drilling) and drill down the center line of the bolt(or as close as possible) at this point a “screw extractor” is your next step, reverse drill bits are also handy. They will often catch the bolt and back it out for you. For that matter, I think several of the knuckle gasket bolts are through-bored into the knuckle, you may also catch them with a normal drill bit and run them thru the knuckle housing, removing them from inside the knuckle.
Good luck. It’s not as hard as it sounds, and a great skill to have.

Screw extractors are also often referred to as “easy outs”.

 

[KO KO]

I held off on mentioning it at the start as I had thought it was going to be fairly easy to remove them. The method is quite straightforward. Them bolt shafts on the back of the knuckle housing are quite small. The drill tip does not like to stay centered. We were working on it for 2 hours. We broke 3 bits, 2 extractors, and incurred one puncture wound from said broken bits. Puncture wound prompted retiring for the night. The knuckle housing isn’t flat enough for us to use the drill press either (tried this unsuccessfully).

 

[KO KO]

The oil retainer bolt holes do not go all the through. I myself kept thinking that too, but it’s the bolts facing outward that have bored-through holes. Having said that, it does seem like there’s enough room to re-bore the holes & maybe go all the way through?

I just don’t have the tools for that & would need a decent referral before I’d be willing to take it to a shop.