1st time DIY - Front End Rebuild (2 Viewers)

[KO KO]

The hard pull was that a suction issue front he bearing race and spindle? The bearings role smooth and quiet still ?

Can you clarify? Too noob to know what you’re saying. I pulled off the spindle. The starting threads on the spindle seem to have some damage & that’s what’s messing with me getting the adjusting nut on smoothly.

 

[clx16]

Really hard to remove the hub this time compared to last time.

The hard pull was with respect to this statement you made when you pulled the hub off the spindle. looking at the picture of the spindle. it looks like there was likely just fresh grease holding the inner bearing race to the spindle. (i.e. not a real issue). I see you pulled the spindle, but i don't think you really needed to. but since you have just look at that moly grease and see if you see anything shiny in it. in the pictures i don't see anything so it is likely fine (In my opinion). look a the threads on the spindle and see if the nut threads are damaged or the spindle threads are damaged. you might be able to take a very thin file and clean them up a little. the Nut just might need replacing if it is too bad.

Nothing is looking Bad to me, so it has more to do with feel. i would put the spindle back on and the hub back on and spin the hub a little just to see how the bearings feel, it might be easier to not put it on and just turn the bearings with your finger to see if it is smooth or if you feel bumps as it turns. Either option you need to feel it. the bearings are new i think you said earlier so they should still be very smooth.

Now that i have seen your rotor I am wondering if your grinding noise is not in the wheel but your brakes/and brake pads. That does not LOOK normal to me.

fyi, you lost your noob status your first time in the BIRF, you are just a normal mud member now.

 

[clx16]

come to think of it.... you can work that cv joint around a little and make sure it isn't crunching and popping too. if both front wheels are off the ground, someone on the other side can turn the tire and you can watch and feel if that noise is in the axle shaft, with the bearings out of the equation it might help you narrow things down.

 

[KO KO]

Ok, gotchya, I was able to follow along with that. Yes, we’re doing what we can with a file on the threads on the spindle. Taking it off has made that part easier.

Will keep working on the threading & will update in a bit.

Re: the rotor & grinding.
Grinding sound only occured when the snap ring popped off. I see & feel what you are referring to with the uneven rotor wear. Brakes have always been squishy on the truck as far as I can remember.

 

[clx16]

Not sure if you can see just how bad these splines are but they were starting to allow the axle shaft to spin more than the wheel. So check your axle flange for damage too.

 

[KO KO]

come to think of it.... you can work that cv joint around a little and make sure it isn't crunching and popping too. if both front wheels are off the ground, someone on the other side can turn the tire and you can watch and feel if that noise is in the axle shaft, with the bearings out of the equation it might help you narrow things down.

Smooth test.

Looks could be deceiving, could be the pavement or not being jacked perfectly level, but the PS might still have some positive camber, one of the reasons for doing this whole job.

 

[Broski]

How dose the spindle look, you did not show us a picture of the spindle, the bearing should not be spinning on the spindle.
Good work by the way.

 

[clx16]

@Broski 1st time DIY - Front End Rebuild - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1st-time-diy-front-end-rebuild.1246263/post-13776882 take a gander at that. also look at the images were you see the rotor... doesn't look right to me.

 

[KO KO]

Splines look good on the birf & flange.

Got the threads on the spindle dressed up so the adjusting & lock nuts will go on smooth.

Birf & Flange Splines

1997 Toyota Land Cruiser 80 series, "The Bull" gets the condition of the splines inspected for wear for rebuild purposes. Further documentation can be found ...

youtube.com

 

[Broski]

@Broski 1st time DIY - Front End Rebuild - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1st-time-diy-front-end-rebuild.1246263/post-13776882 take a gander at that. also look at the images were you see the rotor... doesn't look right to me.

OK I missed that, I'm seeing wear marks on the spindle, look at the last post.

 

[Broski]

Splines look good on the birf & flange.

Got the threads on the spindle dressed up so the adjusting & lock nuts will go on smooth.

Birf & Flange Splines

1997 Toyota Land Cruiser 80 series, "The Bull" gets the condition of the splines inspected for wear for rebuild purposes. Further documentation can be found ...

youtube.com

View attachment 2639704

Just past the threads, where the bearing rides it looks like a ware spot. you should be able to slide your finger over that and not feel anything. If the bearing is spinning on that it would cause that burnt Grease and the marks on the thrust washer.

It's out of focus but I also see something where the back bearing rides.

 

[clx16]

Those may not be new marks, @KO KO do you remember seeing those wear marks the first time you were in?

I think mine I could see where the bearing race would sit, but wasn't grooved. I can't see from my eyes if it is grooved. I guess if it is grooved enough it could allow the hub to be off center and the rotor might be lose enough to rub on the caliper etc.

 

[KO KO]

Yes, there’s grooves on the spindle from where the bearing rides. The black is just grease from our hands, the spindle itself is smooth, no rough edges from the wear

 

[Broski]

Something not right with that rotor, not saying it can't be done but I don't like to turn rotors, if a rotor get warped it best just to replace it.
When you remove material from the rotor it just heats up faster.

 

[Broski]

I know it's not what you want to hear, but IMHO the spindles and rotors need to be replaced.
When I was going through mine I ended up replacing the spindles, they looked just like yours.
Cruiser outfitters stocks them at a fair price and where I got mine
And of course if you do rotors you need new pads

 

[KO KO]

I had no issues on the DS other than moly grease coming out the from the rear (dust felt seal area) prior to my opening things up myself. My work resulted in the snap ring popping off.

Unfortunately I do not have any pictures of the rotor from my initial rebuild. Neither I nor my buddy remember seeing this & he feels he would have noticed. Perhaps when the snap ring popped off & everything was loose, the brakes then got messed up?

 

[KO KO]

I have no qualms about replacing the spindle & rotor. I’m just wanting a better idea mechanically about what is going on to make sure that this is the root of what happened.

 

[Broski]

Anything is possible, All I know is there should not be those wear marks. Impossible for me to tell just looking at pictures how bad or how usable they are.
For sure it's not a stop you in your tracks situation. Just be prepared for the possibility of having to go back in there

 

[clx16]

The rotor doesn't look warped to me. it looks like something metallic is hitting half of the breaking surface area or the brake pad is contaminated, impregnated with something. Maybe the caliper isn't pressing the pad evenly to the surface, or the caliper isn't bolted on straight(not sure how it can't be unless something is bent) but that rotor looks like grinding is happening. I can see the snap ring comes off, the cv joint is further back in the knuckle and able to touch things while spinning on turns (BIG MAYBE HERE), but the snap ring is to keep that cv join flexing right a the right spot as where the center of the axle pivots, i don't know where the grinding would come from. but that rotor isn't right, maybe it is just the pictures. but take a look at your pads for sure.

 

[Broski]

When working on the front end, everything should be done in pairs to keep things in Harmony.
In other words if you do one side do both.