1HZ install into a 1978 FJ40

[crushers]

next is the reassembley of the door guts.
because the fiberglass doors are much thicker than steel count on at least 6-10 hours for each door of test running the internals to get then to work satisfactory. this is tedious work and if you don't have the patience then go for a walk during the process. the fitment is precise or you can run into bindage, locks that won't unlock, windows that stick but once everything is proper then it works like the steel doors did. i find the windows are still a tad tight on all the doors i have installed over the years. it is just the nature of the beast ... a small price to pay for a door that sounds like steel, feels like steel, stronger than steel and will never rust.
the inner panels will be held on by a highend double faced tape.

 

[crushers]

the inner panel installed and waiting for the pull straps, i didn't want to use the cheap aftermarket knock offs so factory new were on order. the cheap ones tear pretty quick so it comes down to a "pay me now or pay me later" choice. since this truck is going to be 5000 km from here best to try and build it to last.

back to the wiring, to my readers, the wiring on this truck is a nightmare. everything is so tight and once the dash is attached then you don't want to have to go back inside for any reason. install, test fit, reinstall, test fit... extremely time consuming. this truck so far has acumulated 95 hours of wiring, e/lockers, primary water seperator, secondary water seperator, ait filter, 4wd indicator, 4 wd actuator, VSV for the t/case, all new battery cables, dual batteries, isolator, e/locker switches, e/locker indicator lights, removign the hoods from the dash lights, the pyro, boost and oil pressure gauges, complete kill systems for parking for extended periods, 3 outlet power source dash, 3 outlet power source inside the tuffy box, 5 interior LED lights, extentions on some factory wiring, water bottle washer, rebuilding the rear harness, tagging the ends for the next bloke that might need to know what goes where, creating the different harnesses, locating and securing the harness, the list goes on and on.
when you look at the pics you (including me) will go "that doesn't look so hard". it isn't hard, it is time consuming.

when i finally finished the wiring and the testing of all the different peices of the puzzle and found them to work flawless it was a HUGE relief to have that part of the build behind me.

 

[crushers]

opening up the dash pod to remove the hoods and to clean.
when drilling out the spot welds be careful, there is a circit board in behind so if you go through then you will need a new pod. slow and careful.
you can see the drill bit and the location of the spot welds in the last pic

 

[crushers]

some more shots of removing the hoods.
drill one almost out, drill the second the same and take the pliers and CAREFULL twist them off.

easy does it, this makes the dash lights bright, so bright that you might even use the dimmer now.

i installed red condoms on the lights to keep the glare down but if the customer wants to it is now an easy job to pop the condoms off and have very bright dash lights...

 

[crushers]

the three pieces to the dash pod case...

 

[crushers]

the parts cleaned
the red condoms

 

[crushers]

a few shots of the wiring
the "complete shut off" relay. with a flip of a switch there is NO drain on the batteries so long term parking will not be a problem. the only down side is the radio will need to have the presets reset after each long term shut down.

 

[crushers]

the wiring for the gauges completed
the 80A braker for the glow system, you don't want this rig burning to the ground.

 

[crushers]

the glove box tray, alloy of course...

 

[crushers]

the isolator
there was not much room left under the hood for the isolator but this spot was perfect. tight but a nice spot close to where the original wires to the alternator ran, close to the battery #2 all we needed was a mount to be fabricated.

 

[crushers]

new battery cables from 1 gauge wire and soder on ends.
the location of the mount for the isolator.

 

[crushers]

location of 80A relay
the only real way to seal the wirng and other items coming through the fireway was silicone sealant...

 

[crushers]

wiring and more wiring

 

[crushers]

on the t/case instead of runing a bunch of adapters i decided to tap the outlet fittings and run a one step brass reducer (which i have to go get yet, these are just a test fitting)

that is it for now guys

thanks for following along.

<just before calling it a day, i hit the key just to see and it turned over.... now i want it back together so i can take the baby for its first run down the road...>

 

[deaddrift]

I may not understand all the pretty rainbow spaghetti, but I sure understood the part where you said "95 hours of wiring" and

HOLY SH...

I mean HOLY F....


HOLY MACKEREL!!!

I never saw anything like this. I am speechless and, well -- no, I guess I'm really speechless. Top drawer.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

That simply looks amazing Wayne!

Question about removing the light hoods and the red condom.....

Is the condom needed because there's now a weird glare from the unshielded light, or is it more to lower the light level overall? Would drilling some additional holes or cutting slots in the light hoods let more light out while avoiding the glare? I put the LED's into Dad's gauge cluster, but I still might want a bit more light, but the glare (especially from the LEDs) without the hoods would be a bit of a concern.

Ever tried that, or seen it done?

Care to talk more about the battery cables and solder on ends? How do they hold up compared to crimped connecters? Those look real good, and avoiding buying an uber-expensive cable crimper sounds real good to me right now.

Dan

 

[crushers]

first the red condoms were to tie all the lighting together in color, nothing else. the owner might want to remove them (very easy to do)
your dimmer switch will go almost dark so the glare is not an issue at all. it is one of the cheapest, easiest mods you can do to your dash... why Toyota put the hoods on at all is beyond me.

the solder ends are very strong and do not need crimping. i had a crimped end come loose on the ford and left me stranded... solder or nothing now.

 

[crushers]

installing the weather stripping.
since the fiberglass doors do not have the slots cut into them for the pins or the clips the installer must silicone them in place.
i used the 83-84 outter rubber and the 78 inner felt.

 

[crushers]

the interior lighting (same on opposite sides) including the trunk...
all controlled by a switch on the dash.

 

[crushers]

when installing the rubber exterior rubber you do not want to have silicone on the glass or the paint so a strip of tape on the paint and a strip of tape on the glass ABOVE where you want to protect it. then roll down the window a bit till the tape is where you want it. install the rubber. when set wind up the window and remove the tape.
done.