1HZ install into a 1978 FJ40

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installing the 2 way gang plug into the tuffy box.
also ran the ground and the power to the box for when the stereo is installed...

this way he can charge his toys while under lock and key when he is out of the vehicle.
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you need to bend the shifter when coupling a Tuffy console with aH55F shifter.
be careful since the shifter is a two piece unit and heat will seperate the two pieces.
personally, i think they should re-evaluate the design when it comes to the 40 series.
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The shifter on the H55 which comes from the factory for the 40 series comes out the same location and has the same shifter as the H41 and H42 gear box. From inside the cab, the you can't tell the difference between a 5 speed equipped 40 and a 4 speed equipped one. The shifter you have there is from a 60 or 70 series.

Later on, if you find a top-loader from a 40 series with a 5 speed, you can put that in, and it will clear the Tuffy really well without bending. It will also clear the handbrake, as the hole will be about 2.5" further forward.

Cheers,

Josh
 
that is true what you are saying but to be honest i like the location of the shifters from the 60 and 70 series. you do not have to reach for the shifter like you do with the 40. i have owned both and prefer this style.
i still do not like the design of the tuffy console. i have heard others that share the same view but each to their own.
since i had to bend the shifter roughly 3 inches forward then this knob sits roughly where the shifter knob from the 42 sereis would. just clearing the box. the gasser i built a while back had the stock shifter as well and what i found with it, the shifter knob actually sat lower so you had to reach slightly down for 2nd/4th/ reverse. this one is up nice and high for easy shifting.

thanks for posting.
 
Agreed that the tuffy console is a POS in a 40. I have been redesigning one in solidworks for months now.....got to finish that. The tuffy leaves a LOT of room underneath it that's wasted, plus the shifter interference....not just from the knob, but it also crushes any "normal" sized drink sitting in the holders.
The trick I'm having is designing one box that will work with factory seat rails and aftermarket seats. I raised and pushed my seats back a bit, so I want to be able to work with that too.

? for you. On your window weatherstripping, if you weren't using fiberglass doors, would those strips need to be in place with the glass down, or out completely?
 
with steel doors it is easier to install with the windows down and out of the way.

tuffy, the more i looked at this one the more ideas popped into my head. i agree the space underneath is a real waste. the angle of the front makes storage space a waste, most stereos run at a max of 23 degree and the mount is 60-70 degree so discs can skip or not work at all.

if i had a bender then i would design one that was functional, especially now with the little remotes that the stereos come with... you could mount the deck flat on the bottom with full storage up top. there is so many options that could be implimented...
cheers and thanks for following along.
 
Sorry Wayne, I misread your post. I thought you meant the shifter should be re-thought when it came to the 40 series:doh:. Now I'm with you. I'll go back to lurking mode, as there is less chance of me making a fool of myself.

Cheers,

Josh
 
Josh,
nobody is a fool here. i welcome the comments being made.
cheers buddy
 
Hi Wayne, you should think about soldering all connections and heat shrinking them, just crimping leaves the possibility for something to come loose. Or atleast heat shrinkable silicone impregnated crimpable connectors. Soldering gives a better contact connection as well.

Just a suggestion.

Nice build.

Louis
 
all connections that had a chance of movement were soldered. there is feet of shrink wrap used in this build.
the crimped connections were double checked for tight. if they are not coming loose under my test... well... they are not coming loose at all.

the connections that are crimped are also accessable from the exterior of the dash. everything tucked up behind the dash and inaccessable were soldered.

a lot of time was invested in the wiring. i will be surprised if anything comes loose unless you have a young radio installer that cuts or messes extremely aggressively behind the dash.

thanks for the advice, i will give it a one more once over before i ship to make sure.

thanks for the compliments guys.
 
I remember seeing the start of this truck in your shop when I came and got a windshield from you, after reviewing your right up, I'm in awe! Amazing work Wayne, I will continue to send people your way when I get asked about my truck.

How much does a rig like this cost to build, ball park?
 
I would think about the same price as a ball park...
 
Wayne, very clean build. Incredible.

I searched all through this build, but couldn't find much into on the hidden "drop box". Are these pre-made boxes? Or are you just using a lid, and making the box part? Where oh where does one find these? Marine application?
 
Eric,
thanks for the compliment.
as for cost, seriously, all BS aside, if a person has to ask... they can not afford it.

I remember seeing the start of this truck in your shop when I came and got a windshield from you, after reviewing your right up, I'm in awe! Amazing work Wayne, I will continue to send people your way when I get asked about my truck.

How much does a rig like this cost to build, ball park?
 
the drop box is a custom job from Gozzard industries. he builds them to spec, not cheap but you can jack the truck off the ground on them.
thanks for the compliment.
cheers
 

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