1HDT ACSD replacement (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter beanz2
- Start date
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Squash
SILVER Star
Since the blank has been added the Cruise Control has worked flawless and the engine never stumbles...
Has anyone priced a new ACSD?
Has anyone priced a new ACSD?
I believe it's around $400, but you won't see me putting one in again after what just happened to me. It's clearly a manufacturing defect. 
NO, because it's a weak design that always fails with dire consequences. Just look at the pictures people posted of failed ACSDs. You'd think that all came from the same one.
sailor
Jackass of all trades
In the grand scheme $400 isn't that expensive. (viewed in a pile on my coffee table, however it is quite significant!) -so every 100,000K I have to change my t-belt, BEBs and ACSD? I have put on 400 KM in the last 4 months. Seems reasonable...
Ok... I get your point, it is reasonable after all. Any of these things not replaced every 100,000 km = Big Trouble
Now... can anyone comment on this picture? This is a view inside the pump where the ACSD was. Although the ACSD lever obviously snapped (se my post here), I don't see anything wrong in there, no shavings, no metal parts... ??? I'm baffled... (picture was taken using a mirror, with a flashlight next to the camera because the flash was in the way, that's why the color is off)
Now... can anyone comment on this picture? This is a view inside the pump where the ACSD was. Although the ACSD lever obviously snapped (se my post here), I don't see anything wrong in there, no shavings, no metal parts... ??? I'm baffled... (picture was taken using a mirror, with a flashlight next to the camera because the flash was in the way, that's why the color is off)
Oh, and I wanted to add one thing to beans2's first post: The Allen socket screws are 5mm, not 5.5, at least on my truck, and they were indeed a bear to take out, and I almost rounded off the socket of one of them. So I ground concave sides into a larger wrench for better bite and, using a heat gun, heated the aluminum body around the screw and was then able to remove the difficult ones. Here's a picture of it. I used a small bench grinder and a lot of patience to do that
I have another question. When I removed the fuel line from the filter to the pump, I noticed the fuel line was empty (as in dry, no fuel...). Although I did replace the filter, shouldn't the line be full of fuel? Or was the air displaced into the pump from the new fuel filter after I installed it and primed it (insufficiently I gather)? Where does the air from the empty fuel filter escape to when you prime the filter? There was plenty of fuel in the ACSD opening when I removed it, though.
I have another question. When I removed the fuel line from the filter to the pump, I noticed the fuel line was empty (as in dry, no fuel...). Although I did replace the filter, shouldn't the line be full of fuel? Or was the air displaced into the pump from the new fuel filter after I installed it and primed it (insufficiently I gather)? Where does the air from the empty fuel filter escape to when you prime the filter? There was plenty of fuel in the ACSD opening when I removed it, though.
My allen screws were 5.5 mm, and on my friends 81. Hmm???
Well, the FSM says 5 and so were mine, maybe yours were replaced at some point... I will replace mine for sure, the heads are a bit worn, don't want to be facing the same problem should I need to remove them again.
At this point I am debating the wisdom of removing the fuel strainer, as I don't want to drop any shavings into the fuel delivery piston. That would be a disaster.
Anyone here who's removed the strainer can tell me how the thing is made? Maybe there is a lip for the fuel cut solenoid that prevents debris from "falling in" when removing the strainer? I am hoping the metal flakes have not passed through the strainer and entered the plunger and injection lines...
At this point I am debating the wisdom of removing the fuel strainer, as I don't want to drop any shavings into the fuel delivery piston. That would be a disaster.
Anyone here who's removed the strainer can tell me how the thing is made? Maybe there is a lip for the fuel cut solenoid that prevents debris from "falling in" when removing the strainer? I am hoping the metal flakes have not passed through the strainer and entered the plunger and injection lines...
I am in the process of replacing the ACSD preventatively on my 1997 1HDT. No wear or issues at this point with 250k km on motor. The 80 came from a warm climate (Costa Rica) and hence why there is no wear on old part. I am interested in retaining this feature.
Reading the FSM, I am confused on how to adjust it with injection pump still on the motor. FSM shows the pump on a stand with timer measuring device installed.
ACSD has two adjusting screws and from what I understand can also be adjusted by loosening the locking nut on shaft.
Any experienced technicians can offer some advise/direction?
I have an injection timing tool that screws into the center port of pump outlet. Can it be used for adjusting this device?
Yellow shows the two (2) adjusting screws.
Red points to location of locking nut on shaft. Hidden by arm in photo.
Looking from front of engine at ACSD adjusting screws (2).
Reading the FSM, I am confused on how to adjust it with injection pump still on the motor. FSM shows the pump on a stand with timer measuring device installed.
ACSD has two adjusting screws and from what I understand can also be adjusted by loosening the locking nut on shaft.
Any experienced technicians can offer some advise/direction?
I have an injection timing tool that screws into the center port of pump outlet. Can it be used for adjusting this device?
Yellow shows the two (2) adjusting screws.
Red points to location of locking nut on shaft. Hidden by arm in photo.
Looking from front of engine at ACSD adjusting screws (2).
