1HDT BEBs Unique Problem (24 Viewers)

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My 1HDT has about 250k miles on it. I've put about 55k of that on it. In that time I have run 3 sets of BEBs on the truck. Always the same pattern: The bottom halves look fine and the top halves are hammered out a bit.

It took me until I just put the 4th set on to be absolutely sure that the fresh ones are always DEAD silent. But within maybe a thousand miles or so they start to click noticeable. Not a knock, but subtle click in the right rpm range (about 1750-2250). It's worst around 2000rpm, like catching a resonance. After they reach their peak clicking volume at a couple thousand miles, they stay at that volume and never get worse. I had one set in for about 35k miles and it wasn't any louder at the end than after 2000mi.

First set I put on were Taiho STD one-size. I plastigauged those going in (dry with the engine out of the truck) and they were in spec. Several thousand miles after they went in, I had an issue where my injection pump was over fueling slightly and I ended up checking the BEBs and they were now on the wide end of spec. So I swapped them with OEM numbers matched to the crank/cap. Plastigauged those (possibly not with the crank journals SUPER clean of oil, but wiped at least) and they were all in spec.

After that it got another set of OEM matched numbers. I didn't Plasti these. I didn't see the point. Last month I put in a set of ACL Race (STD one-size) and they went from DEAD quiet to just starting to make some light clicking now. So now I'm positive that this is what that clicking is. The last few times I did so much other maintenance at the same time that I couldn't be sure what changed the noise exactly.

So what now? I'm at a bit of a loss here. I am debating getting a set of 0.025mm ACL bearings and Plastigauging them to make sure they're not too tight. I'm not in a position to pull the whole crank to mic the caps with them closed and the bearings in them.

Thoughts? Advice?

Below is a pic of the last set that I took out (OEM crank matched with 15k miles on them,. Cyl 1/2/3 shown, 4/5/6 were the same).

IMG_2044.webp
 
I'm pretty sure the tighter ACL will be too tight by ACL's spec which is tighter then Toyota. but if you had numbers of what your clearances are that would help. what year is your engine? there are 3 piston variations and at least 2 different wrist pin weights, I think these could be factors. what oil do you run? the clicking noise is only when warmed up? have you measured oil pressure with a gauge? there is a oil restrictor between the block and head that could be missing or the oil pressure relief spring could be broken/tired if pressure is low. A new spring is cheap might be a little hard to install with the engine in the truck i haven't tried.

I've got about 15 miles on my build with standard tahilo bearings on a polished crank. I'll be listening for that sound.
 
Yes it's a cavitation/resonance problem that causes the damage and it's probably at that rpm. I think the reason Australia found this problem early and NZ didn't was because Australians spend a long time at constant speed where Kiwi's don't.

Here's a relevant research paper: https://www.tytlabs.co.jp/en/english/review/rev401epdf/e401_036aoyama.pdf Analysis of crankshaft cavitation on a 6 cylinder diesel engine. One of the authors is a Toyota Engineer. Hmmm........

They have a modification to prevent it. But I don't know of anyone else who's tried it.
 
I'm pretty sure the tighter ACL will be too tight by ACL's spec which is tighter then Toyota. but if you had numbers of what your clearances are that would help. what year is your engine? there are 3 piston variations and at least 2 different wrist pin weights, I think these could be factors. what oil do you run? the clicking noise is only when warmed up? have you measured oil pressure with a gauge? there is a oil restrictor between the block and head that could be missing or the oil pressure relief spring could be broken/tired if pressure is low. A new spring is cheap might be a little hard to install with the engine in the truck i haven't tried.

I've got about 15 miles on my build with standard tahilo bearings on a polished crank. I'll be listening for that sound.
Engine is an early one: 1990 (I’d have to look up exactly but it’s early). I know the pistons are an issue and I’m planning on replacing them when I have a need to pop the lid off. But compression numbers are great right now. And I’m wary of just doing a quick piston replacement without honing the cylinders or anything. But I’m starting to consider it. Lol.

I’ve been running Chevron Delo Diesel, usually synth blend.

I have a 14in1 cluster and watch OP constantly (sourced full the OEM location). It’s 60-ish cold and never drops below low 20s at hot idle.
 
Yes it's a cavitation/resonance problem that causes the damage and it's probably at that rpm. I think the reason Australia found this problem early and NZ didn't was because Australians spend a long time at constant speed where Kiwi's don't.

Here's a relevant research paper: https://www.tytlabs.co.jp/en/english/review/rev401epdf/e401_036aoyama.pdf Analysis of crankshaft cavitation on a 6 cylinder diesel engine. One of the authors is a Toyota Engineer. Hmmm........

They have a modification to prevent it. But I don't know of anyone else who's tried it.
I’ll dig into that paper over coffee tomorrow. But other than the 195k mile original BEBs I pulled, I haven’t seen signs of cavitation. That was all on the lower bearings for that.

Resonance I’ll 100% believe. Because it’s really at a certain RPM range that it’s apparent/stressful. Lol. The lengths that I go to be under or over it in RPMs. The new H152 has helped those be at better speeds anyway…
 
Engine is an early one: 1990 (I’d have to look up exactly but it’s early). I know the pistons are an issue and I’m planning on replacing them when I have a need to pop the lid off. But compression numbers are great right now. And I’m wary of just doing a quick piston replacement without honing the cylinders or anything. But I’m starting to consider it. Lol.

I’ve been running Chevron Delo Diesel, usually synth blend.

I have a 14in1 cluster and watch OP constantly (sourced full the OEM location). It’s 60-ish cold and never drops below low 20s at hot idle.
sounds good 15w-40?
I haven't heard the noise in person but it sounds like you can just keep running it those bearings look pretty good from here.
 
sounds good 15w-40?
I haven't heard the noise in person but it sounds like you can just keep running it those bearings look pretty good from here.
Yeah their 15w-40. Occasionally I’ve gone full synth. But she likes the blend better, burns almost nothing on the blend. I also tend to throw in 1qt of Lucas Stabilizer on changes. That quiets her down a bit.

The sound really gets to you after a while. Lol. I do a lot of offroad miles with the windows down. It’s sooooo nice when the bearings are fresh and it’s dead silent. Damn.
 
Yeah their 15w-40. Occasionally I’ve gone full synth. But she likes the blend better, burns almost nothing on the blend. I also tend to throw in 1qt of Lucas Stabilizer on changes. That quiets her down a bit.

The sound really gets to you after a while. Lol. I do a lot of offroad miles with the windows down. It’s sooooo nice when the bearings are fresh and it’s dead silent. Damn.
Might be worth 10w-60 as an experiment to see if it makes the noise go away.
 

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