1HD-T Starter Motor (1 Viewer)

[Douglas S]

For anyone curious, the changeover is simple to do.

The main power cables are fairly straightforward. Bat + directly to the post on the starter.

The issue is that the factory starter relay (that activates the starter solenoid) is controlled by both the ignition switch and the voltage converter timer. Power comes in to the relay coil from ignition switch (crank position) and is grounded through the voltage converter timer. Once the voltage converter relay is removed the voltage converter timer will no longer ground the starter relay coil and the starter solenoid with not get power when the key is in the crank position.

My fix for this was to disassemble the connector that controls the starter relay coil and remove the ground wire and extend it to ground on the starter relay mounting bolt. At this point the starter will operate as it did before the conversion.

 

[FJRanger]

For anyone curious, the changeover is simple to do.

The main power cables are fairly straightforward. Bat + directly to the post on the starter.

The issue is that the factory starter relay (that activates the starter solenoid) is controlled by both the ignition switch and the voltage converter timer. Power comes in to the relay coil from ignition switch (crank position) and is grounded through the voltage converter timer. Once the voltage converter relay is removed the voltage converter timer will no longer ground the starter relay coil and the starter solenoid with not get power when the key is in the crank position.

My fix for this was to disassemble the connector that controls the starter relay coil and remove the ground wire and extend it to ground on the starter relay mounting bolt. At this point the starter will operate as it did before the conversion.

Thanks! Waiting for my starter now. It shipped on the 24th and when it gets here I'll be following suit.

 

[Douglas S]

 

[IanB]

Well, that sounded like it cranked over just a quickly as my 24V starter, is it more noticeable when it's cold (like -20C and worse)? Or do you just not deal with "cold" starts anymore now that you have a webasto?

 

[Douglas S]

Well, that sounded like it cranked over just a quickly as my 24V starter, is it more noticeable when it's cold (like -20C and worse)? Or do you just not deal with "cold" starts anymore now that you have a webasto?

Hard to say, I didn't start it at all this winter (actually didn't even have it plated). I pretty much always use the Webasto on cold starts, but I'm going to see how it starts without it next winter.

 

[wrongway around]

I've had mine for a few years. Definitly wouldn't want it if i lived in the -20 climate . But -5ish pretty much the same. I did it to free up a battery for camping, no regrets. I have had to jump it with the extra battery after being left in the extreme cold for a couple of days .

 

[B Point]

For anyone curious, the changeover is simple to do.

The main power cables are fairly straightforward. Bat + directly to the post on the starter.

The issue is that the factory starter relay (that activates the starter solenoid) is controlled by both the ignition switch and the voltage converter timer. Power comes in to the relay coil from ignition switch (crank position) and is grounded through the voltage converter timer. Once the voltage converter relay is removed the voltage converter timer will no longer ground the starter relay coil and the starter solenoid with not get power when the key is in the crank position.

My fix for this was to disassemble the connector that controls the starter relay coil and remove the ground wire and extend it to ground on the starter relay mounting bolt. At this point the starter will operate as it did before the conversion.

Douglas. Did you happen to take a picture of where all this is happening? I can't wrap my head around the 12 volt to 24 volt process. I'd like to just delete it so I can have a 2nd battery for camping and all that. I really don't need the 24 volt flash start... even as impressive as it is.

 

[Douglas S]

Douglas. Did you happen to take a picture of where all this is happening? I can't wrap my head around the 12 volt to 24 volt process. I'd like to just delete it so I can have a 2nd battery for camping and all that. I really don't need the 24 volt flash start... even as impressive as it is.

I didn't, but there are really only two locations that you need to be concerned with. The series-parallel solenoid (located right beside the engine bay fuse box) and the starter relay (mounted to the LHS inner fender near the antenna motor).

The wiring isn't super complex, but some things are tricky. For instance I learned that the same wire that feeds power to the starter relay is also used by the alternator to sense voltage. I had attached this to the starting battery and my alternator voltage was completely unregulated unless the batteries were combined. Moved it over to the other battery and no issues.

 

[B Point]

Thanks for the reply. When or if I get into it I may give you call if you don't mind. Right now I'm debating of leaving what ain't broke alone and contemplating a third battery back where the spare tire used to be. The space is cavernous and could easily have a battery tray of some kind mounted. I'm not too sure about a cable run that long though. Lots of things to research either way. Cheers..

 

[Douglas S]

Thanks for the reply. When or if I get into it I may give you call if you don't mind. Right now I'm debating of leaving what ain't broke alone and contemplating a third battery back where the spare tire used to be. The space is cavernous and could easily have a battery tray of some kind mounted. I'm not too sure about a cable run that long though. Lots of things to research either way. Cheers..

Absolutely. If you have any issues just PM me.

I also considered a rear mount battery, I actually still am considering it. the RHS battery tray would be the perfect location for an A/W intercooler.

 

[wrongway around]

I actually have a third battery on top of my cruisin off road transfercase skid plate.

 

[veiloctane]

For anyone curious, the changeover is simple to do.

The main power cables are fairly straightforward. Bat + directly to the post on the starter.

The issue is that the factory starter relay (that activates the starter solenoid) is controlled by both the ignition switch and the voltage converter timer. Power comes in to the relay coil from ignition switch (crank position) and is grounded through the voltage converter timer. Once the voltage converter relay is removed the voltage converter timer will no longer ground the starter relay coil and the starter solenoid with not get power when the key is in the crank position.

My fix for this was to disassemble the connector that controls the starter relay coil and remove the ground wire and extend it to ground on the starter relay mounting bolt. At this point the starter will operate as it did before the conversion.

I am trying to to put this into a picture in my head on how this was wired up? would it be possible for someone to post or make a wire diagram so I can have a visual on how to do this.

 

[Youngster]

Does anyone have a step by step to this for beginners? I maybe be experiencing the same problem. Hopefully this will fix it. I will be checking my fuses and my batteries later today. But long story short my 1hdt has been running top notch for the past 3 years had no issues whatsoever and yesterday I went out to start to go to work and truck would not turn over. All the light come on and it does crank and crank but does not turn over completely.