1HD-T mild performance build and swap in central Ohio. (1 Viewer)

[TheBussman]

Goals:
Reliable, decent power, decent offroad (for the Midwest) tow 3000lbs well. (somewhat) comfortable, not loud, low smoke.

I haven't done any serious off-road since about 2011, i had a 1988 pickup, locked on 33s. want to get back into it and make a cool project for a company truck. I've learned alot since then working on many different trucks for other people. I've been a diesel enthusiast for a long time too, mostly with Mercedes. I've know about the Toyota diesels for awhile but finally seeing several from customers bringing in their JDM 80s made me want one even more. For me though anything that's going to be driven on the road needs to be LHD its a deal breaker for me. Looked into importing from europe, seen some beat down trucks with rust for big money and lots of risk with the import process so I knew I had to swap myself. Lots of seaching sevral states away for months and then a 1993 factory lockers truck poped up close by. Its been wheeld pretty hard, then drowned and damged the transmision. came with no engine or trans Most importanly though there is almost no rust at all on it. perfect for me really, i wouldn't even have to pull the motor. this is what it looked like back in 2016: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1993-fj80-n-kentucky-area-locked-and-lifted.965342/#post-10933499 Upgrades that came with the truck 4.88 gears, 35" nittos, 3:1 transfercase gears, part time kit, delta arms, dobbinsons 2" lift (i'm told looks taller) costal front bumpter, warn winch. Flares removed and holes welded up, air defector removed, manual cloth seats swapped in, he was already going for that poverty pack look I wanted. However the textured paint doenst look good at all and will need to be redone right if i'm ever going to put company stickers on it paint and bodywork is not my thing, i know sombody that does really good work with textured paint (scopieon liner) but thats the last thing on list.

Right after i bought the truck i bought a engine from great seller chapelgate on here. I knew I wanted a fresh motor anyway so I bought one he had at a discount because of low compression. lots of waiting and plenty of supize fees during the import process and my low compression motor was here.

it was well packed and had everything he said it would. New water pump might be a clue in the low compression story. Turns out the head was badly cracked in many places, two pistons melted and pinching the top ring. No real cyl wall damage though just some aluminum smeared onto the cyl walls.

 

[TheBussman]

Cooling passages gross, performed electrolysis cleaning on it in the ultrasonic tank, worked pretty good and got the rust out. Head passed pressure test somehow, I'm usually one to weld up heads and save them but this one was just too bad, cracks all over it. Oddly enough the local dealer was able to get a brand new one for me. I've seen pistons melted like this before on engines that lost all their coolant, may have been what happened here. Just putting 2 new pistons in, the others all check out. Cyl walls have almost no wear according to bore gauge. FIPG on the oil pan looked pretty fresh and rodbearings looked new aftermarket Tailho. One main had a mark in it but crank is great, gave it a polish anyway. Deck was already a little short, had a 4 notch gasket installed from factory, deck warped a good .002 too so I had to make a small pass on the pistons with the lathe to get the proper protrusion after having the block decked.

Amayama, local dealer supplied most of the parts. Most everything genuine, but Aisin water pump, hkt plugs, NPR rings, taiho bearings.

 

[TheBussman]

Used a ridged platu hone on the bores. ended up .001" larger bore then new well within spec but .0005 thickness in coating will get me back to a new pistons to wall clearance.
pistons getting KG gear kote on the skirts, KG2400 on the bottom and cerkote piston coating on the crown.

lots of scrubbing dirty parts and lots of hours spent blasting most things

piston coating on the head combustion chamber too. we'll see how long it lasts, hoping to squeeze any efficiency I can get out of it.

 

[TheBussman]

accessories getting rebuilt too not just the motor. Kinda felt like a waste, most all of these beaings, seals and o-rings where in get shape. had some pitting on the vaccum pump blades though.

lots of talk about the rod bearings on these. I decided to reuse the rod bearings that came out of the motor, they were in such good shape, then applied KG gear kote to them. we'll see if this is a good idea or not in time.. I'll probibily have the oil tested long term still.

 

[TheBussman]

Injection pump was rough, had water sitting inside it for a time. Replaced almost everything inside. Anything reused soaked in evaporust first even if I couldn't see rust. Inside of the lines and injectors also soaked. injectors also rebuilt (forgot pictures) 2 stage injectors take about 5 times longer to rebuild.... but I got it. Not really understanding the aftermarket fuel pins for these. With the boost comp housing off the pump I can abousole max travel out of the housing with the stock pin (well it looks stock). An aftermarket pin can have a different ramp I guess. I set mine to max fuel at 30PSI i'm sure that will get adjusted again later.

 

[TheBussman]

sketchy injection pump test bench in the lathe... I don't need to hit any flow targets or anything. Just need to test that the govener is working properly and isn't going to let the motor run away on me, good enough to let me know that nothing is leaking too. its a pass!

one thing that blows my mind is why doesnt every straight 6 engine use a twin scroll exhaust manifold? it's just so simple and there are real gains to be had. twin scroll gets pretty complicated on 4cyls and other engine types or if you needed to package the turbo to the front or rear of the engine it wouldnt work but it's just right in the middle on the 1HDT. Toyota had it on the 3sgte in 1990 so they did know about it. Cummins and others was using it before that. I bought a Tillux manifold, thing is it fits 1hdt and 1hdft both even though the heads are quite a bit different. The ports don't line up very good at all. this is probibly better to use on a 1hd-ft/fte. i should have went with the DTS manifold, it's also twin scroll and looks like it's a T3 flange but they don't say, also the 2 peice design might be less likely to crack?

 

[TheBussman]

I love Toyota but I've always felt their turbos lacked performance for what they are. (in the 80s and 90s) as I've already said I wanted to use a twinscroll setup. Genuine Holset turbos are a good value. I like not having any coolant going to the turbo, not really needed with a journal bearing on diesel less hoses and a little less heat getting into the cooling system. looking at the numbers HE250 with an 8cm turbine housing should be a good fit for this engine. Its originally used in china spec 5.9l Cummins bus, this is probably the smallest turbo they have ever used on that motor. In USA the newest conventional turbo we got got from Holset was about 2004 but development continued for use in other countries. this is one of their newer designs. Never seen a post about anybody using it before, there is a company in Australia that is recommending a an HE250 with a 7cm open scroll housing for this motor so this one should spool sooner and flow just a bit more then that. I know the 6CM version is a great fit on a 3.0L Mercedes OM606. After modifying the waste-gate bracket it's a good fit into the stock location. used 1/4 copper nickel tubing for the oil line. factory oil drain hose is a direct fit. the the turbine outlet on this is an oddball metric vband that I can't find for sale anywhere. The backplate is removable so i put it on the lathe and machined it into a standard 3.5" vband, also bored it out a little to get some more flow. If this turbo has too much lag i can swap it out with the 6cm version or a different turbo all together.

Motor went together fine. here is final piston protrusion measurement:

 

[TheBussman]

motor together, all the "paint" is KG2400 bake on coating. except for the manifolds and turbine housing are cerakote. KG2400 will blow your mind if you've never used it before. Its impossibly thin, can be used on gasket surfaces, bolt holes, ext no issues.

for the transmission I really wanted to get an H152 as I'm a manual transmission fan, however cost is so much less to go auto, and they are better off-road in some situations. I found a used transmission locally for $150. For torque converters it looks like the gas converter would bolt up and work but its alot smaller i'm sure the stall speed is higher witch i wouldn't want. there is a converter for the Aisin 450-43LE that has all the exact correct specs but i couldnt find anybody that would sell me one without the whole transmission. engine used wholesale automatics billet torque converter. looks like they are modifying a ZF converter to fit the a442F. had to machine the bolt heads down on the flexplate bolts Also got their valve body, replaced all the seals in the transmission. diesel trans throttle cable is also a little longer so had to get a new one. all new izusu solinoids. Landcruiser heaven came though with the bellhosuing and AC parts. almost all the connectors on the transmission harness needed replacement.

 

[TheBussman]

engine and trans together and ready to go into the truck sitting on new rubber. It's alot of weight for a engine hoist but it worked out fine.


wiring a mechanical diesel couldn't be more simple right? This is going to take a little more effort then i thought. 2/3 connectors actually plug in from the 1hdt to 1fzfe however all the circuts are wrong, toyota decided to change almost every circuit around. there are 2 harnesses under the hood, the engine harness and the engine bay harness. 1hdt has some things on the engine harness that the 1fzfe has on the engine bay harness and vice versa. no issue it will be done. i have a few hundred in new connectors and repair wires. best to put new connectors in.

if you compare Mercedes and Toyota most everyone would agree that Toyota= simple and Mercedes=complicated however you couldn't be more wrong if your taking about 80s/90s glow systems. Toyota super glow has: timer, 3 relays, resistor screwed into the intake manifold fuseable link. Mercedes: one controller does everything and even has separate fuses for each glow plug, and a large fuse for the whole thing. It's cheap and all the connectors are available and cheaper then Toyota connectors. I had every intention of using the Toyota system but it would just add so much work and the engine did not come with the timer, they cost alot. The Mercedes glow plugs draw more amps so the Mercedes module should have an easy job on a Toyota. looking in the manual the on times are very close and they both have afterglow, the Toyota temp sensor has the same test specs as Mercedes. (you can even use the older 87-91 glow module that just measures air temp to keep things even more simple.)

 

[TheBussman]

some of the plans going forward:
plazmaman air to water intercooler on the way, going to use a Bosch waterpump used on many factory air/water applications, universal heat exchanger.
have UTcomp multigage system for EGT, boost, intake temp, air/water intercooler pump control to be installed under the single din radio.
take stock airbox, cut the bottom out of it, weld 4" pipe on the bottom for the outlet, close to the top to reduce the restriction to the turbo inlet. will need to space the airbox out away from the stock position.
I'm going to reuse the gas interment cluster, check engine light will come on as the glow light. I know I can use the alternator and Dakota digital to get the tach working but has anybody ever ran a gas tach with the IP rpm sensor?
truck came without a front driveshaft, I probability don't need it being part time 4x4 but prob going to have a Tacoma shaft cut up to get double carden joint.

I only get to work on this during business hours when there are parts problems or appointment issues with other cars.

 

[bj70bc]

nice work man

 

[s13koop]

Good stuff there
Been eyeing that Tillux mani for my FT for awhile
Did I see a Wholesale Automatics valve body?

 

[TheBussman]

Good stuff there
Been eyeing that Tillux mani for my FT for awhile
Did I see a Wholesale Automatics valve body?

thanks
I think it should be a great fit for a FT. Other then the poor fit on a 1hdt head it seems well made, came with nice hardware.
yea wholesale valve body, hopefully it will help it hold all that torque.

nice work man

thank you

 

[TheBussman]

Using new 3fe throttle cable, 3fe cruise actuator. Will need to replace (inner) cable from cruise to injector pump linkage, it's a little too short, cable is discontinued new, can't find a used one.
already sold the diesel wiring harness as i think it's better to modify the gas harness actually.
all of the gas engine circuits stripped out of the engine wiring harness. will start laying it out soon.

started on exhaust down-pipe. Probably not going to be very popular but I'm using a rawtek/GSI catalytic converter, going to try and keep the smell down. First bend is pretty tight so I made it 3.5" rest of the system is going to be 3"

planning on connecting Dakota digital to the injection pump sensor and seeing if it can convert that into a signal the gas tach can use unless i can find somebody parting out a diesel cluster.

 

[OGBeno]

Using new 3fe throttle cable, 3fe cruise actuator. Will need to replace (inner) cable from cruise to injector pump linkage, it's a little too short, cable is discontinued new, can't find a used one.
already sold the diesel wiring harness as i think it's better to modify the gas harness actually.
all of the gas engine circuits stripped out of the engine wiring harness. will start laying it out soon.

started on exhaust down-pipe. Probably not going to be very popular but I'm using a rawtek/GSI catalytic converter, going to try and keep the smell down. First bend is pretty tight so I made it 3.5" rest of the system is going to be 3"

planning on connecting Dakota digital to the injection pump sensor and seeing if it can convert that into a signal the gas tach can use unless i can find somebody parting out a diesel cluster.

View attachment 3750763

View attachment 3750764

I’ve got your CC bits. Drop me a line.

 

[lelandEOD]

I have a spare diesel tach without the faceplate too.

 

[TheBussman]

Throttle cable on the way from Beno, talking with a few members about getting a real diesel tach to swap into instead of using a converter.

what's up with the vacuum reservoirs? looks like RHD japan trucks got them but other markets with LHD diesels didn't? should be fine without it? there isn't much room for one unless i delete the ABS.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

I will have an extra diesel gauge cluster if interested. MPH too.

 

[OGBeno]

Throttle cable on the way from Beno, talking with a few members about getting a real diesel tach to swap into instead of using a converter.

what's up with the vacuum reservoirs? looks like RHD japan trucks got them but other markets with LHD diesels didn't? should be fine without it? there isn't much room for one unless i delete the ABS.

All Toyota diesels from this time period had vacuum reservoirs.

 

[Ragnaroek]

what's up with the vacuum reservoirs? looks like RHD japan trucks got them but other markets with LHD diesels didn't? should be fine without it? there isn't much room for one unless i delete the ABS.

Like @OGBeno said, all of the diesels had them. But they're only about the size of a coffee cup and fit between the ABS unit and the firewall. There's also a vacuum switch in the reservoir that triggers the brake warning light in the dash in case of a leak.

I can take some pictures tomorrow if needed.