80s help with engine swap or rebuild.

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Well, it came to my conclusion after probably 25 hours of total research and talking to as much people as I can that an LS swap would be more ideal for me, but some of the companies can help install, but they are not budget friendly, I prefer to buy a kit and someone could help me install it, but when I tried to contact some of these companies, they don’t really sell the actual kits they just do the install.

I mean, some of the companies you contacted DO sell components for a LS Swap: Torfab and CruiserMatts.

A LS Swap needs, at a minimum:
T-case adapter
Motor Mounts (need to be welded)
Water/Oil Sensor adapters
GM Wiring Harness
Dakota GSS-3000 (for dash gear lights)

Toyota Tach can be easily modified for a V8.

Plenty of companies sell GM Wiring Harnesses that are nearly plug and play.

What is left is integration into the Toyota harness and Transmission Gear Shifting.

Nothing like driving a V8 80 Series. :steer:
 
I mean, some of the companies you contacted DO sell components for a LS Swap: Torfab and CruiserMatts.

A LS Swap needs, at a minimum:
T-case adapter
Motor Mounts (need to be welded)
Water/Oil Sensor adapters
GM Wiring Harness
Dakota GSS-3000 (for dash gear lights)

Toyota Tach can be easily modified for a V8.

Plenty of companies sell GM Wiring Harnesses that are nearly plug and play.

What is left is integration into the Toyota harness and Transmission Gear Shifting.

Nothing like driving a V8 80 Series. :steer:
Yeah I was checking them out but the wire harness and sensors is where I’m not sure where I’ll be able to get them. The 60/62 series is much easier lol
 
Yeah I was checking them out but the wire harness and sensors is where I’m not sure where I’ll be able to get them. The 60/62 series is much easier lol

CruiserMatt sells sensor adapters: Oil and Water. He also sells motor mounts that does the best job of placing an LS motor into a US 80 series.

Marks4WD (out of Australia) sells t-case adapters, mount mounts adapters, sensor adapters and many other things. Example: Transfer Case Adaptor - 6L80E to LandCruiser 80/100

I have used stuff from CruiserMatt and Marks4WD.

I use the GM harness that came with my motor, but many buy a ready made harness. Example: PSI

There are also adapter to connect a AN hose to Toyota steering box, as well as the Toyota fuel line
 
IMO if you have noticeable amount of glitter in the oil/ sump, time to start planning your engine swap or rebuild with intention of pulling the trigger sooner rather than later.

Next oil change, send an oil sample off to Blackstone labs or another oil testing service, this will give an indication of the seriousness of bearing wear.

Also, maybe have a loose plan on how to get a dead cruiser home if your motor gives up. It's running on borrowed time.
 
Hello guys and happy new year

So after doing a lot of research and talking with different and getting really great advice from everyone, I might just rebuild the engine and start restoring everything. a lot of parts have been discontinued, if I did do an LS swap, I think I will do an LQ4 or LQ9 because it’s a little bit cheaper than an LS3. I currently don’t have a space or anywhere to do anything so I’m very limited on what I can swap. a lot of people in my area has frowned upon helping me with the work, especially different shops and I just got fined a $500 fee from my apartment complex because I was rebuilding the knuckles.

The whole point of the swap was for better fuel economy, lighter weight and more power, but typically an adventure and family car. I’ll start sending progress photos in the meantime. I’m currently working on the chassis and rebuilding the suspension, so pretty much the easier stuff.
 
Hello guys and happy new year

So after doing a lot of research and talking with different and getting really great advice from everyone, I might just rebuild the engine and start restoring everything. a lot of parts have been discontinued, if I did do an LS swap, I think I will do an LQ4 or LQ9 because it’s a little bit cheaper than an LS3. I currently don’t have a space or anywhere to do anything so I’m very limited on what I can swap. a lot of people in my area has frowned upon helping me with the work, especially different shops and I just got fined a $500 fee from my apartment complex because I was rebuilding the knuckles.

The whole point of the swap was for better fuel economy, lighter weight and more power, but typically an adventure and family car. I’ll start sending progress photos in the meantime. I’m currently working on the chassis and rebuilding the suspension, so pretty much the easier stuff.
You might be a good candidate for selling your 80 in yiur situation. Use that money plus the 15k for motor swap you set aside and buy a right hand drive diesel import 80.
 
You might be a good candidate for selling your 80 in yiur situation. Use that money plus the 15k for motor swap you set aside and buy a right hand drive diesel import 80.
The beauty about the 80 I got is there’s absolutely zero rust on it and it’s in very good shape, body and interior except those kid puke stains. I got it for a really good deal. The guy was trying to sell it for 15 K but I got it down to 9300 because there were some oil leaks and a good tune up. A diesel? That does sound.
 
So, just to be contrarian and go the other way here—do you know those metal bits came from your engine, or did the mech say Hey, these came from your engine and you need to spend a ton of money? (Can’t tell from your post whether you removed the pan, or he did.) Not saying anything is crooked, that’s high miles. But if the engine is humming along with no apparent problems, I would consider all possibilities. Seal it up, run it around, check again. Keep doing that for a while. Even if they are from your engine—if you’re gonna rebuild or swap anyway, and it’s running fine now, maybe you’re not in the hurry you thought you were. When was the last time the pan was off? Could those bits be from years ago?
 
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So, just to be contrarian and go the other way here—do you know those metal bits came from your engine, or did the mech say Hey, these came from your engine and you need to spend a ton of money? (Can’t tell from your post whether you removed the pan, or he did.) Not saying anything is crooked, that’s high miles. But if the engine is humming along with no apparent problems, I would consider all possibilities. Seal it up, run it around, check again. Keep doing that for a while. Even if they are from your engine—if you’re gonna rebuild or swap anyway, and it’s running fine now, maybe you’re not in the hurry you thought you were. When was the last time the pan was off? Could those bits be from years ago?
The last oil change was when I took the oil pan off, the mechanic told me it was the bearings, but not to really worry about it. There’s no sounds, and it runs pretty good. It loses quite a bit of oil but that’s because I gotta still fix a couple more leaks, I’m gonna be taking off the oil pan again and I’m gonna check it and send you guys a photo once I get back into town. It kinda look like silver glitter, if that makes any sense.
 
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