Builds 1FZFE overhaul

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New Radiator.

As soon as i got the truck running, i had to shut it down because the radiator was leaking like crazy.

It was my bonehead move to leave the radiator sitting out for the last part of summer all the way until a few weeks ago. Let's just say that the sun can kill em'. :bang:

Here's the old. :doh:

And here's what's going in. Koyo C1917 ..... $286 to my door.
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Followed your build from the beginning. Awesome. I put a C1917 in my 94 and it fit like a glove. I did have some trouble with the fan shroud not clearing the lower coolant hose and prematurely freaked out, said f-it and cut a big piece off the shroud....then realized I had been hung up on a nut or something stupid. Now I've got a nice 3" slice out of the shroud. Seems to run fine, but sure its not as efficient. I'm sure you'll be fine though since you've learned jedi mind trick patience on this project. :beer:
 
Followed your build from the beginning. Awesome. I put a C1917 in my 94 and it fit like a glove. I did have some trouble with the fan shroud not clearing the lower coolant hose and prematurely freaked out, said f-it and cut a big piece off the shroud....then realized I had been hung up on a nut or something stupid. Now I've got a nice 3" slice out of the shroud. Seems to run fine, but sure its not as efficient. I'm sure you'll be fine though since you've learned jedi mind trick patience on this project. :beer:

You know, same thing happened to me... as i was putting the shroud in it was not going all the way down on the PS.... I was getting worried and a little frustrated. Then i looked real close and realized that since i reused the stock hose clamps, the clamp ends were sticking up and that was hitting the shroud, so i turned them to the bottom side and it fit like a glove.
 
so ,guys, help me out, I dont wanna remove the whole engine only because of a stupid plug freeze
does it exist on the front of engine? I see "concretejungle", has done an awesome job, and I think u learned every detail in ur engine, Help me out man
sometimes is leaking like running water, sometimes not, I cant understand why, so maybe someone has any pictures of the engine front,(windshield part)
 
Well, Are you driving it yet ?

Yep! Well, kind of illegally because i haven't taken it in for inspection so i can renew the tag... but it's runs good and drives good and the insurance is paid up. :hillbilly:

Inspection and then new exhaust is in order next. I think some time down the road there will be a Phase III and that will mean all new gaskets in the windows. I think right now the windshield, back glass, sliding rear glasses and all door windows leak. :censor:
 
New Radiator.

As soon as i got the truck running, i had to shut it down because the radiator was leaking like crazy.

It was my bonehead move to leave the radiator sitting out for the last part of summer all the way until a few weeks ago. Let's just say that the sun can kill em'. :bang:

Here's the old. :doh:

And here's what's going in. Koyo C1917

Hat's off to you Alex! Congrats on your engine build. Is that Koyo made in japan?
 
Thanks!

It says that it is.... so i hope so.
 
so ,guys, help me out, I dont wanna remove the whole engine only because of a stupid plug freeze
does it exist on the front of engine? I see "concretejungle", has done an awesome job, and I think u learned every detail in ur engine, Help me out man
sometimes is leaking like running water, sometimes not, I cant understand why, so maybe someone has any pictures of the engine front,(windshield part)

Dude, you need to start your own thread out of respect for CJ. Coolant leak from the rear of the engine (near firewall) could be from heater hoses, pesky heater hose, head gasket failure at #6 cylinder that I can think of. Usually the head gasket failure is diagnosed off other signs than coolant leaking out of the block. Post up your own thread and do a search. I'm sure you'll get some good feedback.

-Hijack off-
 
i'm going to try to do a follow-up post and add up all my receipts so that i can have a gut check and everyone else can see just how much money it cost to do this.

Also, for a data point, i decided after years of thinking about it, to switch to green antifreeze. I know you can't mix the two and considering that the system is completely flushed, i put green coolant in. The main reason is you can get it anywhere and if i'm going to be taking this rig out into the bush i know there aren't a lot of toyota dealerships.
 
Alex, you are spot on re the coolant issue. I spent a fair bit getting the ztoyota red coolant but recently needed more than anticipated and had to make a special trip. Had i gone green, I could have got it locally and much cheaper. I'll be flushing and changing to green coolant/antifreeze shortly.

Hope you're close to downing tools for a well deserved break.
 
Tallying up more receipts. These do not count the ones from the beginning of the thread.

*Napa--Silicone Heater Hose.............................$30.15
*10 AN Flare Cap (for the oil plug i welded on the pan for the turbo)... $5.95
*Napa--More silicone heater hose and hose clamps.......................... $21.00
*O'reilly-- Hoses........................................................................... $1.39
*O'reilly--- more hose................................................................... $1.69
*O'reilly -- even more hose........................................................... $3.29
* Sparkplugs.com -- Denso Iridium plugs (IK16)............................. $69.89
* Toyota thermostat gaskets (16119-66020,16346-66020)............... $10.96
* Toyota thermostat (90916-03117)............................................... $19.15
*Toyota Power Steering Pump (44320-60182)................................. $260.50
*Toyota Gasket (44327-30030) ..................................................... $2.05
*Toyota Valve Shims (2 of them 13753-66140)............................... $19.96
*Toyota Valve Shim (13752-66240)............................................... $7.48
*Toyota Valve Shim (3 of them 13753-66220)................................ $22.44
*Toyota Gasket (15758-66010)..................................................... $2.17
*Toyota Studs for exhaust manifold (7 of them 90116-10169).......... $7.63
*Toyota nutz for the manifold studs (13 of em' 90179-10128)........... $14.82
*Toyota intake studs (2 of em' 90126-08008)................................. $1.50
*Toyota intake nutz (2 of em' 90179-08040)................................... $1.94
*Toyota Vent Hose (12261-66021)................................................. $12.89
*Toyota Vent Hose (12262-66021)................................................. $15.33
*Toyota PCV Grommet (90480-18001)........................................... $5.31
*Toyota Oil Pump Gasket (15188-66020)....................................... $4.23
*Toyota EGR Valve Gasket (25627-66010)..................................... $2.99
*Toyota EGR Inlet Gasket (25628-66010)....................................... $3.77
*Toyota Gasket (90430-27001)...................................................... $2.80
*Toyota FIPG black (00295-00103)................................................. $12.66
*Automotive Fasteners oil pump cover screws (0370846)................. $1.28
*Toyota Rotor Assy (19102-61240)................................................. $7.08
*Toyota Cap Assy (19101-66010)................................................... $12.20
*Toyota timing chain (13506-66010)............................................... $66.79
*Toyota Chain tensioner (13540-66011).......................................... $20.34
*Toyota Chain Damper (13561-66010) ........................................... $64.87
*Toyota Slipper (13559-66011)...................................................... $24.71
*Summit alum male weld in bung AN-10 (SUM-220062).................... $5.95
*Toyota bearing 3 of em' (11710-66031-03).................................... $54.78
*Toyota bearing (13041-66031-03)................................................. $11.47
*Toyota bearing (11701-66031-04)................................................. $18.26
*Toyota bearing 3 of em' (13041-66031-04).................................... $34.41
*Toyota insulator a.k.a motor mount (12361-66030)........................ $73.18

Total for this tally: $795.84
:crybaby::o:doh::censor::bang:
 
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so it looks like i spent about $3,000.

If you add the cash price for machine work at $550, plus the radiator, plus the first order, plus the parts washer, plus the injector cleaning, plus fluids, plus paint, plus ....... you get the picture. :meh:
 
so it looks like i spent about $3,000.

If you add the cash price for machine work at $550, plus the radiator, plus the first order, plus the parts washer, plus the injector cleaning, plus fluids, plus paint, plus ....... you get the picture. :meh:

Great work and information! Any idea how many hours you invested?
 
It's always the many little costs here and there that seem to blow the budget to pieces.

You're a brave man for having the courage to add it all up. Ignorance is bliss in my world.
 
Great work and information! Any idea how many hours you invested?

no way i could count my time up. Mostly because i wasn't on any time schedule and learning as i went, it took FOREVER!! Even if you got to count the few times i installed and had to remove a part because something was wrong, so then do it again.... Did that a lot. Also, had a friend help me on things like setting the crank and main/rod bearings so took time to wait for his availability. Add in i don't have a garage so i was at the mercy of the weather. Plus, keep in mind i had to wait for main bearings to come from Japan on the slow boat and the machine shop took about 6 weeks for a turnaround. So with all that said, don't look at my thread for a realistic time schedule.
 
I guess i found one of the small bugs the other day....

Was at the gym and came out to find a small puddle of coolant on the ground :bang: Popped the hood and found the ends of the heater control valve just rotten away and leaking.

This little guy is stupid expensive IMHO. My local Toyota dealership wanted $104... supported a dealer that supports one of our clubs and he gave me the same thing for $61 :grinpimp:

I also have a pic showing how i just bypassed the dang thing for a few days.

Few pics of the old and new here.

I also decided to order the hose that has the 90 degree bend to it. I was having a hard time finding he right hose to fit.... found plenty that i could make fit, but nothing that was right.

Now with the exhaust done and having driven it 165 miles; it drives NICE!! Never has driven this good. I'm pretty exciting. I think i'm going to get another hundred miles on it or so before i take a short wheeling trip.
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Concretejungle,

When you did the bypass, what was the net effect? If you turned on the fans, did it just blow hot?

I recently found a coolant leak coming from the right side tube of valve. The hose seems to be intact, and the screw-strap is on there securely, so I'm kinda scratching my noggin to explain why it's leaking. Oh, mine is the newer plastic version (one on the left in your side-by-side comparison photo), not the metal-based one.
 
It's been a while and i didn't go up an re-read my thread. I didn't bypass anything really; I just ran a hose down as one piece instead of having a small hose attached to a hard pipe, then attach another hose to the bottom of the hard pipe to the block... i just went one hose from the top all the way down to the block.
 
Since you bypassed the heater valve for your short term fix, coolant was always flowing through the heater cores. So yes, it would always blow hot if you turned the blowers on in the cab.
 

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