Just found this thread, I’m in Melbourne Australia and I currently just finished swapping out a A343f auto from a 97 1fz 80 series with a 6r80 kit from a company called PDI in Perth Australia. Honestly one of the best things I’ve done to the car
1FZ trans swaps 6R80 10R80 and more
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Bonjour,
grâce à votre discussion, j'ai pu assembler une 8hp70 en 2024.
Tout fonctionne parfaitement !
Cependant, je recherche une adaptation pour installer le levier de vitesses de la BMW F31, imprimable en 3D.
Quelqu'un aurait-il déjà partagé une solution ?
grâce à votre discussion, j'ai pu assembler une 8hp70 en 2024.
Tout fonctionne parfaitement !
Cependant, je recherche une adaptation pour installer le levier de vitesses de la BMW F31, imprimable en 3D.
Quelqu'un aurait-il déjà partagé une solution ?
Possibly @OutlawMike if he’s willing to share or maybe sell you one
Hello,
Congratulations on your swap. Drove my rig today and it totally changes the characteristics of the J80. I developed a 3D printed bezel and bracket assembly to position a BMW shifter under the stock Toyota J80 shifter console. You can find pictures of that assembly in this thread. Some pictures below of that assembly also.
I put a good bit of engineering into that design, using a portable CMM from work and 3D scans. The BMW shifter only fits inside of the bezel in a very narrow window.
I sell the set for $175 US. You will also need to modify the stock shifter plate to remove some brackets and the shifter pivot assembly. I do not share or sell the STL files, as once they are in the wild, they are out of my control.
Let me know if you are interested.
Thanks,
Mike
Merci beaucoup OutlawMike , mais malheureusement mon shifter n'est pas ce modèle.
Je possède le levier f10 première génération pour le moment.
I searched the forum to see if you had posted on this topic, but could not find any mention of the Axis adapter from 8HP to HF2a. This adapter seems shorter than the two posted in this thread (yours & 880's). Any reason you decided to design and manufacture your own vs. using the Axis parts?
Toyota HF2A to Jeep 23 Spline
Axis Industries is Committed to Engineering, and Manufacturing the Highest Quality, American Made Off-Road Product. Cummins Swap, Jeep, Ram
edited to add: it looks like the final Domiworks adapter brought to market ended up much thinner at 37mm:
Toyota HF2AV Transfer Case Adapter kit - BMW 8HP AWD
Toyota HF2A/HF2AV Transfer Case Adapter kit - BMW 8HP AWD Adapter kit to adapter the Toyota HF2A/HF2AV Transfer case to a BMW 8HP AWD Transmission. Fits all F- and G-series AWD transmissions. This kit is compatible with the Transfer Case HF2A/HF2AV from Land Cruiser 80-series 1990-1998. The...
www.domi-works.com
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The axis adapter also requires their tail shaft adapter. Stacking parts instead of one piece and the assembly does not include the stock trans mount geometry, which I wanted.I searched the forum to see if you had posted on this topic, but could not find any mention of the Axis adapter from 8HP to HF2a. This adapter seems shorter than the two posted in this thread (yours & 880's). Any reason you decided to design and manufacture your own vs. using the Axis parts?
Toyota HF2A to Jeep 23 Spline
Axis Industries is Committed to Engineering, and Manufacturing the Highest Quality, American Made Off-Road Product. Cummins Swap, Jeep, Ramwww.axisindustriesusa.com
edited to add: it looks like the final Domiworks adapter brought to market ended up much thinner at 37mm:
Toyota HF2AV Transfer Case Adapter kit - BMW 8HP AWD
Toyota HF2A/HF2AV Transfer Case Adapter kit - BMW 8HP AWD Adapter kit to adapter the Toyota HF2A/HF2AV Transfer case to a BMW 8HP AWD Transmission. Fits all F- and G-series AWD transmissions. This kit is compatible with the Transfer Case HF2A/HF2AV from Land Cruiser 80-series 1990-1998. The...
Thanks, I definitely skimmed over that reading the description.
Auto Trans
- 8HP70 Eco Diesel (with our tail shaft housing)
- 8HP70 Hemi (with our tail shaft housing)
I also noticed I linked the incorrect Domiworks adapter. I linked the one for the BMW trans, not the dodge trans. Dodge transmission adapter below. It looks like they make very nice parts.
Toyota HF2AV Transfer Case Adapter kit - Dodge 8HP AWD 23 Spline
Toyota HF2AV Transfer Case Adapter kit - Dodge 8HP AWD 23 Spline Adapter kit to adapter the Toyota HF2AV Transfer case to a Dodge 8HP AWD Transmission with the 23 spline output axle. Fits Dodge 8HP70 with the smaller output axle with 23 teeth spline. Transfer case adapter measures 126mm...
www.domi-works.com
The BMW transmissions have an integrated tail shaft housing cast into the case. Daniel wanted an option for J80 swaps in Europe that used the BMW variants. There are no Dodge pickups over there. He had to design a really thin adapter and leave it to the installer to figure out a transmission mount.Thanks, I definitely skimmed over that reading the description.
Auto Trans
- 8HP70 Eco Diesel (with our tail shaft housing)
- 8HP70 Hemi (with our tail shaft housing)
I also noticed I linked the incorrect Domiworks adapter. I linked the one for the BMW trans, not the dodge trans. Dodge transmission adapter below. It looks like they make very nice parts.
Toyota HF2AV Transfer Case Adapter kit - Dodge 8HP AWD 23 Spline
Toyota HF2AV Transfer Case Adapter kit - Dodge 8HP AWD 23 Spline Adapter kit to adapter the Toyota HF2AV Transfer case to a Dodge 8HP AWD Transmission with the 23 spline output axle. Fits Dodge 8HP70 with the smaller output axle with 23 teeth spline. Transfer case adapter measures 126mm...
Well, good news. I finally got off my butt and figured out how to trick the PCU into not throwing codes and turning on the check engine light, now that the stock transmission is no longer present. So far with four test drives, no DTC's are being set. This will work for both auto and manual transmission swaps.
With this bit of wiring trickery, the PCU "thinks" the stock transmission is still there and that the transmission and transfer case are both in Neutral.
This does not appear to affect engine performance or drivability. The PCU is not smart enough to wonder why the engine is under load and throttling up and down while the transmission and transfer case are in Neutral.
Error Codes Seen:
After the transmission swap to the ZF 8HP75 I had five DTC's stored in the PCU:
P0710 Transmission Fluid Temperature
P0753 Solenoid A
P0758 Solenoid B
P0773 Solenoid E & F
P1780 P/N Position Switch Malfunction
Solenoid Error Codes:
The solenoid error codes can be easily addressed by putting a 12 Ohm power resistor on the lines for the three solenoids. A power resistor should be used in case the PCU tries to turn on one of the solenoids, but I am pretty sure that it will not given the state the PCU thinks the transmission is in. But, to be safe I used power resistors and mounted them on an aluminum plate for heat sinking, just in case. If I get really motivated I could hook up thermocouples to each of them and see if they ever get hot, but, not a big priority for me.
The power resistors I used are readily available at Digikey for $5.15 each. Three are required.
Bourns PWR220T-20-12R0F Power Resistor
The three solenoid lines are on Connector A on the PCU harness. There are four connectors that plug into the PCU (A, B, C, and D). They are also named E4, E5, E6, and E7.
The pin numbers are 8, 9, and 10 on Connector A.
I connected the power resistors to extended wires for the three pins on the harness connector and also soldered on ground wires that combined into one larger wire. I then mounted them on a 1/4" thick piece of aluminum sheet. It does not matter what side of the power resistor you attach the wire from the ECU or which is ground. I used the same color/stripe wire that is in the ECU harness. I have a bunch of Toyota wire in my stash from Toyota Sienna minivan harnesses at PnP.
You want to cut the wires at the PCU connector with enough length so that you can connect the wire extensions. You will attach the wire extensions to the wire that goes into the PCU connector, not the side that goes into the harness bundle. That side is left cut and open in the harness, as, it does not go anywhere since the stock transmission is gone.
For the ground side of the power resistors I combined all three into 1 larger wire and ran that to the ground lug in the passenger footwell.
Under the dash in the passenger side footwell, there are two M6 threaded studs sticking out through the sheetmetal. These studs are 70 mm center to center. I drilled two holes in the aluminum sheet 70 mm apart, mounted the three power resistors in between them with M3 screws into tapped holes in the 1/4" sheet. I did add a few washers on the studs first to raise the heatsink plate up a bit and then attached it with two nuts.
That takes care of the solenoid error codes. The PCU sees the correct resistance and if it does push power to one or more of them, the aluminum plate will handle dumping the heat.
Next I will talk about the transmission fluid temperature fix / trickery.
With this bit of wiring trickery, the PCU "thinks" the stock transmission is still there and that the transmission and transfer case are both in Neutral.
This does not appear to affect engine performance or drivability. The PCU is not smart enough to wonder why the engine is under load and throttling up and down while the transmission and transfer case are in Neutral.
Error Codes Seen:
After the transmission swap to the ZF 8HP75 I had five DTC's stored in the PCU:
P0710 Transmission Fluid Temperature
P0753 Solenoid A
P0758 Solenoid B
P0773 Solenoid E & F
P1780 P/N Position Switch Malfunction
Solenoid Error Codes:
The solenoid error codes can be easily addressed by putting a 12 Ohm power resistor on the lines for the three solenoids. A power resistor should be used in case the PCU tries to turn on one of the solenoids, but I am pretty sure that it will not given the state the PCU thinks the transmission is in. But, to be safe I used power resistors and mounted them on an aluminum plate for heat sinking, just in case. If I get really motivated I could hook up thermocouples to each of them and see if they ever get hot, but, not a big priority for me.
The power resistors I used are readily available at Digikey for $5.15 each. Three are required.
Bourns PWR220T-20-12R0F Power Resistor
The three solenoid lines are on Connector A on the PCU harness. There are four connectors that plug into the PCU (A, B, C, and D). They are also named E4, E5, E6, and E7.
The pin numbers are 8, 9, and 10 on Connector A.
I connected the power resistors to extended wires for the three pins on the harness connector and also soldered on ground wires that combined into one larger wire. I then mounted them on a 1/4" thick piece of aluminum sheet. It does not matter what side of the power resistor you attach the wire from the ECU or which is ground. I used the same color/stripe wire that is in the ECU harness. I have a bunch of Toyota wire in my stash from Toyota Sienna minivan harnesses at PnP.
You want to cut the wires at the PCU connector with enough length so that you can connect the wire extensions. You will attach the wire extensions to the wire that goes into the PCU connector, not the side that goes into the harness bundle. That side is left cut and open in the harness, as, it does not go anywhere since the stock transmission is gone.
For the ground side of the power resistors I combined all three into 1 larger wire and ran that to the ground lug in the passenger footwell.
Under the dash in the passenger side footwell, there are two M6 threaded studs sticking out through the sheetmetal. These studs are 70 mm center to center. I drilled two holes in the aluminum sheet 70 mm apart, mounted the three power resistors in between them with M3 screws into tapped holes in the 1/4" sheet. I did add a few washers on the studs first to raise the heatsink plate up a bit and then attached it with two nuts.
That takes care of the solenoid error codes. The PCU sees the correct resistance and if it does push power to one or more of them, the aluminum plate will handle dumping the heat.
Next I will talk about the transmission fluid temperature fix / trickery.
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Transmission Fluid Temperature Error Code:
This is a very easy fix. It is addressed by cutting the transmission fluid temp sensor line at the PCU connector, connecting it to a 1.5k Ohm thru hole resistor, and then connecting the other end of the resistor to the same ground in the harness as shown on the wiring diagram.
First I had to figure out what resistor size was needed to simulate the stock fluid temp sensor at a normal fluid temp, once warmed up. I had the stock sensor from my original transmission, so, I put together a calibration curve for it by using boiling water, ice water, hot tap water, and cold tap water. That gave me four points. Normal operating temp is around 85 C, so, I went with a 1.5k Ohm resistor.
The resistor I used was a thru hole, 1.5k Ohm, 2W resistor from lab stock at work. You can also get one from Digikey for $0.27 each.
1.5k Ohm, 2W thru hole resistor at Digikey
The transmission fluid temp sensor input to the PCU is on connector "C", Pin #12. The ground for this sensor, along with the Engine Coolant and EGR Gas Temp are all hooked up to E2 on the Throttle Position Sensor, which is present in the harness on the same connector "C", pin #9 (very convenient). I have no idea why this is, but, the engineers did it for a reason and I made it the same.
Cut the wires for Pin #9 and Pin #12 in connector "C", leaving enough wire to make your new connection. Connect one end of the resistor to the R-W wire from Pin #12 in the PCU connector. It does not matter which end of the resistor. The other end of the resistor is spliced into the wire that goes into Pin #9 in the same connector "C". You want to reconnect the two ends of the wire you just cut with a wire extension from the resistor. I attached a short length of wire to the resistor and then jumped that over to the wires for Pin #9. Make sure you cover everything with shrink wrap or electrical tape.
That is it for the temp sensor. Not a lot of work, once you know the resistor value.
Next I will talk about how to set the transmission and transfer case state so that the PCU does not send a code for the Neutral Safety Switch.
This is a very easy fix. It is addressed by cutting the transmission fluid temp sensor line at the PCU connector, connecting it to a 1.5k Ohm thru hole resistor, and then connecting the other end of the resistor to the same ground in the harness as shown on the wiring diagram.
First I had to figure out what resistor size was needed to simulate the stock fluid temp sensor at a normal fluid temp, once warmed up. I had the stock sensor from my original transmission, so, I put together a calibration curve for it by using boiling water, ice water, hot tap water, and cold tap water. That gave me four points. Normal operating temp is around 85 C, so, I went with a 1.5k Ohm resistor.
The resistor I used was a thru hole, 1.5k Ohm, 2W resistor from lab stock at work. You can also get one from Digikey for $0.27 each.
1.5k Ohm, 2W thru hole resistor at Digikey
The transmission fluid temp sensor input to the PCU is on connector "C", Pin #12. The ground for this sensor, along with the Engine Coolant and EGR Gas Temp are all hooked up to E2 on the Throttle Position Sensor, which is present in the harness on the same connector "C", pin #9 (very convenient). I have no idea why this is, but, the engineers did it for a reason and I made it the same.
Cut the wires for Pin #9 and Pin #12 in connector "C", leaving enough wire to make your new connection. Connect one end of the resistor to the R-W wire from Pin #12 in the PCU connector. It does not matter which end of the resistor. The other end of the resistor is spliced into the wire that goes into Pin #9 in the same connector "C". You want to reconnect the two ends of the wire you just cut with a wire extension from the resistor. I attached a short length of wire to the resistor and then jumped that over to the wires for Pin #9. Make sure you cover everything with shrink wrap or electrical tape.
That is it for the temp sensor. Not a lot of work, once you know the resistor value.
Next I will talk about how to set the transmission and transfer case state so that the PCU does not send a code for the Neutral Safety Switch.
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The last bit to trick the ECU is to cut 8 wires in the PCU harness, all on connector "D".
Seven of the eight lines that are cut are listed below with their function:
The theory on this is to trick the PCU into thinking the transmission is in Neutral. To do this we need to tell the PCU that the transmission is not in Reverse, Second, or 1st gear by grounding those wires.
For the O/D lockout indicator, I went ahead and grounded it for this testing, which tells the PCU that O/D is not locked out. It may not be necessary, but, since I had already cut the wire, I grounded it.
NSW is the indicator to the PCU that the transmission is in Neutral or Park. When this line is high, or, 12V, the transmission is in Neutral or Park.
The first configuration I tested resulted in a P1780 DTC. I had incorrectly hooked up Pin #D22 to ground, when it should have been power. Power on the NSW line indicates the transmission is in Neutral or Park.
The second configuration I tested with 12V on the NSW pin did not have the P1780 code, but did have a P1700 for an error for the #2 speed sensor. This code was not present in my previous testing. The #2 speed sensor is in the transmission tail extension between the transfer case and the transmission. I looked that up, and for this DTC to set, one of the conditions is for the transfer case to be in High or Low. It does not set if the transfer case is in Neutral. How to tell the PCU that the transfer case is in neutral? The TFN pin does this. The L4 pin tells the PCU if the transfer case is in 4 Low. I grounded that pin also to make sure the PCU did not get a signal about 4 Low at the same time it is receiving a signal that the transfer case is in neutral.
I then cut the wires for TFN and L4. These are pin # D9 and D21. If pin D9 is grounded, then that indicates the transfer case is not in 4L. If Pin #21 is grounded, then that indicates that the transfer case is in Neutral.
This configuration resulted in no DTC's being set. Pin #'s 9, 15, 16, 17, 19, and 21 in connector "D" are connected to ground. Pin #22 in connector "D"" is connected to ignition controlled 12V.
Where to get the 12V? Well, that is the 8th wire to cut. Pin #1 in connector "D" is an ignition controlled 12 V input to the PCU. I cut that wire, extended the B-W wire on pin #22, and spliced the three wires together (both of the B-L Pin #1 wires and the B-W wire from pin #22 in the connector. This sends 12V to Pin #22 when the ignition is on.
For the ground, I made two sets of three for pin #'s 9, 15, 16, 17, 19, and 21. I twisted each set of three and connected each set to a larger AWG black ground wire. This gave me two wires that I then connected together to an even larger ground wire, that I then ran over to the ground lug in the passenger footwell. Six into two, then two into one, and then 1 wire over to the ground lug.
I hope this helps someone. I will keep everyone in the loop if the ECU ends up throwing a code. All good so far.
Thanks,
Mike
Seven of the eight lines that are cut are listed below with their function:
The theory on this is to trick the PCU into thinking the transmission is in Neutral. To do this we need to tell the PCU that the transmission is not in Reverse, Second, or 1st gear by grounding those wires.
For the O/D lockout indicator, I went ahead and grounded it for this testing, which tells the PCU that O/D is not locked out. It may not be necessary, but, since I had already cut the wire, I grounded it.
NSW is the indicator to the PCU that the transmission is in Neutral or Park. When this line is high, or, 12V, the transmission is in Neutral or Park.
The first configuration I tested resulted in a P1780 DTC. I had incorrectly hooked up Pin #D22 to ground, when it should have been power. Power on the NSW line indicates the transmission is in Neutral or Park.
The second configuration I tested with 12V on the NSW pin did not have the P1780 code, but did have a P1700 for an error for the #2 speed sensor. This code was not present in my previous testing. The #2 speed sensor is in the transmission tail extension between the transfer case and the transmission. I looked that up, and for this DTC to set, one of the conditions is for the transfer case to be in High or Low. It does not set if the transfer case is in Neutral. How to tell the PCU that the transfer case is in neutral? The TFN pin does this. The L4 pin tells the PCU if the transfer case is in 4 Low. I grounded that pin also to make sure the PCU did not get a signal about 4 Low at the same time it is receiving a signal that the transfer case is in neutral.
I then cut the wires for TFN and L4. These are pin # D9 and D21. If pin D9 is grounded, then that indicates the transfer case is not in 4L. If Pin #21 is grounded, then that indicates that the transfer case is in Neutral.
This configuration resulted in no DTC's being set. Pin #'s 9, 15, 16, 17, 19, and 21 in connector "D" are connected to ground. Pin #22 in connector "D"" is connected to ignition controlled 12V.
Where to get the 12V? Well, that is the 8th wire to cut. Pin #1 in connector "D" is an ignition controlled 12 V input to the PCU. I cut that wire, extended the B-W wire on pin #22, and spliced the three wires together (both of the B-L Pin #1 wires and the B-W wire from pin #22 in the connector. This sends 12V to Pin #22 when the ignition is on.
For the ground, I made two sets of three for pin #'s 9, 15, 16, 17, 19, and 21. I twisted each set of three and connected each set to a larger AWG black ground wire. This gave me two wires that I then connected together to an even larger ground wire, that I then ran over to the ground lug in the passenger footwell. Six into two, then two into one, and then 1 wire over to the ground lug.
I hope this helps someone. I will keep everyone in the loop if the ECU ends up throwing a code. All good so far.
Thanks,
Mike
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You are a gentleman and a scholar Mike. (I still wanna see video of you driving around in this 8hp 80 though.) I forget but have you figured out any way to have the cruise control work? I think you mentioned it.
Yes, got the cruise working. That is covered in post #172. Just had to hook one wire in the harness up to 12V.
Yes, I have been lagging on getting driving videos up.
Excellent travail !
cela fait plaisir de voir des personnes impliquées dans leur projet.
Pour ma par je ne rencontre pas de problème avec le calculateur d'origine car c'est un 12v 1hdt.
En revanche j'ai un souci de bruit avec le TPS,je vais donc passer en câble blindé pour le RPM et TPS.
Petite question,ou cablé la marche arrière sortie tcu turbolamik au faiceau d'origine?
je l'ai instalé sous le tableau de bord derriere le cache gauche a coté du repose pied.
On the 1FZ PCU there is a Reverse input that I cut and spliced in the Turbolamik Reverse signal. This turns the R light on in the dash also. With the mod described above, the R input to the PCU is now grounded. The Turbolamik Reverse output now just feeds into the harness side of this wire.
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G'day Blown80series, I am from down in Geelong and considering Brian's 6R80 conversion for my old bus.
Keen to pick your brain, if you have some time.
Not sure how I might go about sending you a message on this platform...?
Hope the auto is still ticking along nicely..
Cheers,
Adam
Hi
I didn't want to repost your whole post but just wanted to say all your trans trickery posts starting at post #250 was exactly what I was looking for for my 8HP in an FZJ80.
I was just starting to tackle looking at the wiring diagrams and was doing some digging online when I came across this thread.
This saved me a lot of time.
Now i'm just gonna get some components and maybe 3D print a little enclosure and call this one done.
Thanks
- Thread starter
- #259
FYI Everybody. There is now a controller for the 10R80 and 6R80, as well as 2 companies making adapters for 1FZ to these and stock transfer case. Mine will be installed shortly but won’t be drivable until end of project. If you need any info pm me
