Builds 1FZ-FE TRD S/C Rebuild (2 Viewers)

[thetoyotaman]

First start. 20 minutes at 2000 rpm for cam break-in. Tried to load a video, but that didn’t work.

 

[thetoyotaman]

It’s alive! Took a maiden voyage down to the gas station to put some premium in it.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Looking at the Snow Performance Stage 1 Methanol injection kit it comes with 2 nozzles. Looking at the chart below they recommend a 175 ml/min one. Closest in kit is 225. Anyone running the 225 with success?

 

[cruiserdan]

I run a 14 GPH, 45 degree stainless steel oil-fired boiler nozzle with a 90 PSI Flojet demand pump.
I've only had it for ~22 years so I can't comment on long-term operation.

 

[thetoyotaman]

The Snow kit is set to turn on at a preset boost level. They recommend half of total boost. When does yours kick in @cruiserdan?
Reached out to tech support and looks like I found the older instructions. So, they recommended I start with the 4 GPH nozzle first and step down to the 3 if needed.

 

[george_tlc]

It’s alive! Took a maiden voyage down to the gas station to put some premium in it.

My OCD requires you to move the rubber sleeve a little bit towards the radiator.

Thank you.

cheers,
george.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Was it glued originally?

 

[george_tlc]

Was it glued originally?

Don't know, may just be a friction fit. I just know that it normally rests against the flat part of the valve cover to protect the hose from potentially rubbing. See if it sits in place when you move it.

I'm sure Cdan or Beno can provide exact specifications of how it is retained on the hose and the force (in Newtons) that is required for it to slip/move

cheers,
george.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Fixed.

 

[cruiserdan]

The Snow kit is set to turn on at a preset boost level. They recommend half of total boost. When does yours kick in @cruiserdan?
Reached out to tech support and looks like I found the older instructions. So, they recommended I start with the 4 GPH nozzle first and step down to the 3 if needed.

Mine is a 2-stage activation. Injection comes on when RPM is above 3,100 and boost pressure is over ~3.5 PSI. Gotta have both before it kicks in.

50/50 methanol and distilled water at 14 gallons per hour.

 

[cruiserdan]

Pay extremely close attention to knock. If you hear it, back off the throttle immediately.

Do not ever advance the base Timing past 3 degrees BTDC. ALWAYS run premium fuel and buy pure gas whenever you can.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Have you had pinging over 3° running methanol? I’ve read some people on mud doing that without issue even with regular gas.

 

[cruiserdan]

Have you had pinging over 3° running methanol? I’ve read some people on mud doing that without issue even with regular gas.

Yes, I have ...

DO NOT EVER RUN REGULAR GAS.

You have spent way too much to risk damaging the engine.

My recommendation, your call.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Good to hear your experience. I filled it up with premium. What’s the rationale on the rpm the juice kicks in?

 

[thetoyotaman]

The stage 1 system uses an adjustable vacuum switch to set boost level it comes in at with a recommended setting of half total boost. If this isn’t enough control an optional computer can be added to add the rpm kick in.
Cam timing might be tricky as my experience with cam grinds has always required advancing timing over stock and as @cruiserdan says, you don’t want any knocking. Gonna keep this overly conservative until everything is installed.

 

[cruiserdan]

What’s the rationale on the rpm the juice kicks in?

That was the recommendation from Kennedy's Dynotune in Tonawanda New York. They made the kits Photoman and I modified to work on the 1FZ. The original application was for a 5.0 Mustang. They originally recommended 3,500 rpm but we got better knock control by dropping to 3,100. We also played around with multiple nozzle flow rates, settling on 14 GPH.