midknightc3
SILVER Star
I have enjoyed my time in the slow lane for the last 13 years or so, but nearly getting run over by semi's any time I venture out onto I40 is wearing thin. My 2F head has been done twice and I think someone screwed it up along the way as I'm burning oil and don't feel like I am getting nearly the HP (skimpy as it may be normally) that others seem to from their 2F's with a Sniper setup (and definitely not the MPG). I have been toying with the concept of a 1HD-T, but that is of course quite pricy and more complicated given parts aren't always available here. Chevy of course is the simplest/cheapest for getting good MPG and HP, but I love the manners of my inline engines off road.
While I was in talking to a shop in town I would trust with any such swap, the owner mentioned he has two 1FZ-FE's (one long and one short block) sitting on a shelf and he wants them gone. This seems to make the idea of a 1FZ swap that much more appealing, and potentially competitive price wise with a Chevy. As it turns out, the long block is actually out of a friend of mines truck, so I know it's a 1996 1FZ-FE. Mechanic is certain he can dredge up the wiring harness as well as computer to go with it. I have spent lots of time reading through numerous threads and learned lots from the likes of @dogfishlake @Tapage @elripster @Zoverlander and many others, however some key questions often wind up unanswered as the swap never happens or the person gets busy swapping and stops posting. I currently have a good, tight H55F behind my 2F with a good t-case, making it far more desirable to me than trying to source an H150/H151 (and yes, I'm dead set on staying manual, I just enjoy them more).
Flywheel (FZJ70) : 13405-66020
Clutch Disc : 31250-36343
Clutch Cover (PP) : 31210-36330
Slave Cylinder : 31470-60171
Pilot bearing : 90363-15017
Release Fork : 31204-36110
T/O Bearing : 31230-60130
You can substitute with Aisin and such parts elsewhere online.
Furthermore, our latest iteration from The FJ Co utilizes OBD1 Computers intended for M/T applications (non-US). We then attach a H55F using the above mentioned parts, as well as a brand new OEM split case. For the VSS we utilize a 83181-20040 80 series sensor. Correct me if I'm wrong, but with an H55F, I wouldn't be able to use this VSS, right?
Thanks for any and all input on this!
Clark White
While I was in talking to a shop in town I would trust with any such swap, the owner mentioned he has two 1FZ-FE's (one long and one short block) sitting on a shelf and he wants them gone. This seems to make the idea of a 1FZ swap that much more appealing, and potentially competitive price wise with a Chevy. As it turns out, the long block is actually out of a friend of mines truck, so I know it's a 1996 1FZ-FE. Mechanic is certain he can dredge up the wiring harness as well as computer to go with it. I have spent lots of time reading through numerous threads and learned lots from the likes of @dogfishlake @Tapage @elripster @Zoverlander and many others, however some key questions often wind up unanswered as the swap never happens or the person gets busy swapping and stops posting. I currently have a good, tight H55F behind my 2F with a good t-case, making it far more desirable to me than trying to source an H150/H151 (and yes, I'm dead set on staying manual, I just enjoy them more).
- The FJ Co reported they had an adapter bell housing for this, but it isn't listed on their website and they state they won't sell anything not listed. I sent an inquiry, but don't have much hope of a positive response. It has been reported elsewhere that 31111-60230 is a bell housing that will work, though possibly with some additional drilling/tapping. Can anyone confirm/deny/expand on this?
- On the subject of H55F vs H150 (I would prefer the lower gears of the H150) I see much discussion about the H150 being a stouter transmission. This may be factually true, but is the H55F TOO weak, or just not as strong as an H150 yet will hold up just fine for a moderate driver running 255/85 R16's? Seems that if the FJ Co is putting the H55F behind their $250k builds, they have determined this is a plenty stout tranny?
- For the computer, it sounds easy enough to trick the AT computers into thinking the tranny is in neutral and then they work just fine with a manual gear box. Would there be anything to be gained by forking out the moula for an MT computer out of Australia, or just stick with the AT computer sitting on my mechanics shelf?
- Speaking of HP, it seems that if the 2F puts out 134HP and was just acceptable, the 212HP of a 1FZ-FE would be plenty. The long block available would receive a complete teardown and rebuild, bringing the possibility of some gains from that (sorry, I'm just a shade tree mechanic and don't know exactly what gains, that's why I'd have the shop do all this). My guy seems to think maybe 250HP would be pretty reasonable to expect?
- I've heard of putting turbo's on these engines, but my main goal is reliability in the back country with comfort on the highway. I WANT more HP of course, but would a turbo further reduce MPG or would it potentially increase power enough that I'm staying off the gas at 70MPH and therefore actually increase MPG? What sort of MPG does a 1FZ powered FJ60 get, anyway?
Flywheel (FZJ70) : 13405-66020
Clutch Disc : 31250-36343
Clutch Cover (PP) : 31210-36330
Slave Cylinder : 31470-60171
Pilot bearing : 90363-15017
Release Fork : 31204-36110
T/O Bearing : 31230-60130
You can substitute with Aisin and such parts elsewhere online.
Furthermore, our latest iteration from The FJ Co utilizes OBD1 Computers intended for M/T applications (non-US). We then attach a H55F using the above mentioned parts, as well as a brand new OEM split case. For the VSS we utilize a 83181-20040 80 series sensor. Correct me if I'm wrong, but with an H55F, I wouldn't be able to use this VSS, right?
Thanks for any and all input on this!
Clark White