1FZ-FE rebuild: Swap strategy (pros/cons?) (1 Viewer)

[COYS]

Based on a recent conversation I had with a well-reputed Cruiser shop, I am considering swapping out my 250K/23yr old engine with one that they would source and rebuild. I'm only considering this because I trust this shop backed by ih8 references.

I would require that they source an engine same model year ('97) with lesser miles. Should I go this route, it'll save me 2-3 weeks of downtime as the shop itself is in Norcal and I live in LA.

Costs aside, what are some of the technical pros/cons of going this route rather than dropping off my truck and rebuilding the original engine?

Underhood-wise, I've already done quite a bit of preventative maintenance with OEM parts whenever available.

Radiator / hoses / fan & shroud / heater control valve / Wits' End fan clutch / plugs / disti / wiring / accel cable / battery / starter / alternator / belts / phh / valve cover gasket / Wits' End MAF / intake tube / fuel filter / brake booster / master cylinder / power steering pump / water pump / etc

Work to be done would be the obvious stuff like HG, refreshed injectors, all new gaskets including RMS, timing chain cover, upper arch pan, decking the head, servicing anything internal that needs attention. I'd probably ask to do some extra things like new engine wire harness while in there, engine/tranny mounts, etc.

Current symptoms are engine knocking under load and eating about 1 qt of Mobil 1 5w-30 full synth every 1-1,200 miles. Otherwise, smooth, no odd noises. Desired goal is like new engine good for another crazy amount of miles and years of pleasure. Add Wits' End turbo kit once verified all good.

Thank you.

 

[White Stripe]

Sounds like a good route to have another engine rebuilt and ready. If your having the engine rebuilt I would consider having the cylinder head port n polished. It increases power and efficiency of the head and will increase engine power. Refreshed injectors in my opinion is a waste of time. I would get new injectors.

 

[BILT4ME]

In this case, you may consider a NEW short block rather than a rebuilt one just because of less cylinder wear.

If there is cylinder wear, part of the rebuild will be to bore / hone the cylinders to bring everything back in spec or you STILL have the 250K mile engine with piston ring clearances to match.

Get a used head and have it completely rebuilt with all new seals, valves, guides, shims, and possibly have it ported and polished. Reassemble with the goal of doing turbo (keep compression low).

There is something to be said for a heat-cycled block from a used engine, but it still needs to be gone through 100% to verify it's tolerances. You may buy and check a couple of them before you get "the right one".

For what you have described and having seen your methods, install all NEW pumps, idlers, hoses, valves on the new one so it's plug-n-play.

 

[NLXTACY]

Used but good short block is a great contender for going +1 or +2 on the pistons. I wouldn’t care about mileage if it’s getting fully rebuilt. Blocks can be decked, bored and honed.

 

[scottryana]

Cost and time wise a complete new short block is tough to beat.

 

[ewillis]

Agree with Ryan...cost aside, I'd go new short block and additionally new head since I believe they're still available. I'm no metallurgist or engine builder, but I would prefer new over "heat cycled" (used).

 

[COYS]

I believe this is the part number for a new short block with all the bits in it.

Block Assembly Short - Toyota 11400-66041 | Norwalk Toyota Parts

Block Assembly Short 11400-66041

parts.norwalktoyota.com

So the revised strategy would be to buy a new short block, have them build that out as much as possible, drive my truck up and transplant things on my og engine to the new "built" short block?

If I get a new short block, then I'm guessing the Cruiser expertise is less valuable so can go with a local shop to avoid the travel?

Trying to obviously manage costs and save me some time.

 

[jaymar]

For posterity...

Block and head:

What’s the worn-in / heat-cycled argument for used over new?

What’s the cost argument for new over quality rebuild using new oem parts (so far as that’s possible)?

 

[COYS]

Along with the short block, I'd need...

80 Series 1FZ Complete Head Gasket Kit

80 Series 1FZ Complete Head Gasket Kit (HGK-1FZ)

absolute-wits-end.com

1FZ-FE Engine Little Hose Kit

1FZ-FE Engine Little Hose Kit (SHK-1)

absolute-wits-end.com

Rear Main Seal - Toyota (90311-99009)

Injector - Toyota (23209-74080) qty 6

Engine mount front - 12361-17011 qty 2

Engine mount rear - 12371-66030 qty 1

 

[scottryana]

Might as well just LS swap it. You can get an LS for $500.

 

[COYS]

Might as well just LS swap it. You can get an LS for $500.

Not my style.
Adding it up though... tempts me to just sell this old jalopy and pick up a 2020 Tacoma trd pro. Lmao

nah in2deep

 

[White Stripe]

It adds up. Adventure offroad does porting and polishing fyi on 1fz heads. A shop I used to work at charged about 10k to rebuild 1fz motors. Included remove and install labor. Quality of parts definitely affects price.