1FZ-FE Engine Build

[matthewscruiser]

FWIW, I pulled a 300k A343F apart in my son's 2000 LX470. I was disappointed when I opened the overhaul kit and didn't see any bearings, since all 13 are small needle bearings. Despite the very nasty condition of the oil and the fact that every clutch was gone, along with most of the steels, every bearing was pristine. Some of the sprag fingers in one or two clutches had discoloration on them, but no damage. Those transmissions really are very well designed.

Agreed! I’m quite content to run mine after the reseal and solenoid service I completed on it. It’s amazing how few failures I’ve heard of unless they run low on fluid. It will probably outlast the vehicle.

 

[Malleus]

I have heard that at least one Toyota engineer has stated he doesn't know if there's a lifecycle span for the 80 series. I love these trucks.

 

[SNLC]

I’ll add something that I believe is more important than oil choice—oil priming.

Number 1 is make sure you prime the oil pump as described in the FSM during engine assembly.

Then, Prior to engine start, I used a syringe to add oil in both passages behind the oil filter. It didn’t take much, but I think every bit counts.

Then, I filled the oil filter completely and installed. (Place a towel to catch the oil that spills as you install)

Then, I disconnected the fuel pump relay and distributor connector.

I cranked the starter for 10 seconds, let it cool 5 minutes, then repeated until I got oil pressure. I got oil pressure halfway through the 3rd cranking.

I reconnected the distributor and fuel pump relay and started the engine with perfect oil pressure!

All good to do. However, using plenty of engine assembly lube is also important. There is two types we use, bottom end and top end. The top end type is thick and designed to “melt” as the engine gets warm. This allows it to stay lubed until the top end is fully lubed from the engine lubrication system.

Cheers

 

[matthewscruiser]

All good to do. However, using plenty of engine assembly lube is also important. There is two types we use, bottom end and top end. The top end type is thick and designed to “melt” as the engine gets warm. This allows it to stay lubed until the top end is fully lubed from the engine lubrication system.

Cheers

Yes, you’ll see that I used assembly lube on the lifters/cams and I assume Toyota uses it during shortblock assembly. My input was for going the “extra mile” if you want to build oil pressure quickly and guarantee all is well in that arena before letting it run

 

[reklund5]

Excellent point on the oil priming.

I did the same on mine, and have excellent pressure.

I've dropped the oil at 450 miles and 1000 miles and found very minimal amounts of glitter in the oil both times. Nothing to speak of when cutting open the filter, just some light debris in the sump as the oil drains out. It's got me concerned tho- as I went to great lengths during assembly to lube things up thoroughly. I did use new pistons and rings on the old block and crank and rods tho, so I'm hoping it's just a little break in debris I'm seeing...

Time will tell. I'm gonna turbocharge it and run it until the rods come out!

 

[matthewscruiser]

Parts list with costs attached. This list includes my AC system overhaul, transmission reseal/refresh, and some other things that I did at the same time. My list totaled $10,659. I'm sure the build ended up right at $11,000 if you count the things I forgot to add. Ready to go 400k miles with some good maintenance. I'd do this project again.

Funny, my dad drove mine and is now getting me to build a 1FZ for my sister's '95.

 

[tone33]

For EGR plates (to cover port on cylinder and intake until I still my EGR), I got a 6061 1/8" aluminum plate from McMaster Carr. I traced the gaskets and used a jig saw to slowly cut the pieces out. I marked the holes with a center punch and used a friend's drill press to drill the holes out to 5/16" (8mm). I filed and sanded the plates.

To fasten the cylinder head plate, I inserted two zinc plated m8x1.25 studs (14mm depth into head, 16mm thread depth on plate side, with 6mm shoulder in between.). I Installed the OEM gasket, plate, M8 washers, and M8x1.25 flange nuts. The nuts were torqued to 16 ft-lb.

To fasten the intake plate, I just used the existing studs. I installed the OEM gasket, my plate, M8 washers, and M8x1.25 flange nuts torqued to 15 ft-lb.

I did the same thing, except different . I replaced the studs with some leftover toyota bolts on both the engine block and the intake so I dont have studs sticking out to catch and cut up my hands/arms in the future. Yours, however, look a lot better than mine (as does your engine, woo, that's clean!). And I used steel instead of aluminum b/c it's just what I had laying around.

 

[Fj80oregon]

Nice work! Your pricing is very good they must like you! Most people walking into a Toyota dealer are not getting a short block for $3300! Good job on that!

 

[Fj80oregon]

Did you buy all these parts when a dealer was doing 15-20% off?

 

[mudgudgeon]

Nice list.

So all up about $8500 on the engine alone?

 

[matthewscruiser]

I did the same thing, except different . I replaced the studs with some leftover toyota bolts on both the engine block and the intake so I dont have studs sticking out to catch and cut up my hands/arms in the future. Yours, however, look a lot better than mine (as does your engine, woo, that's clean!). And I used steel instead of aluminum b/c it's just what I had laying around.

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Your bolts looked great! I used studs for a little extra clamping force without having to torque the fastener too much.

 

[matthewscruiser]

Nice list.

So all up about $8500 on the engine alone?

I’d say so!

 

[tone33]

Your bolts looked great! I used studs for a little extra clamping force without having to torque the fastener too much.

oh, i also put some FIPG on each, especially since I don't intend to take them off again - just want to get that extra seal.

 

[geologic]

Bingo, homie.

Solid work on the hardware as well. Most people pussy-out on the hardware. The hardware is where the detail lies.

My nephew

 

[LandCruzrNY]

All good to do. However, using plenty of engine assembly lube is also important. There is two types we use, bottom end and top end. The top end type is thick and designed to “melt” as the engine gets warm. This allows it to stay lubed until the top end is fully lubed from the engine lubrication system.

Cheers

Just curious, what different engine assembly lube did you use on the bottom and top ends? I tried Permatex 81950 Ultra Slick Engine Assembly Lube in the past but didn’t care for it.

 

[matthewscruiser]

Just curious, what different engine assembly lube did you use on the bottom and top ends? I tried Permatex 81950 Ultra Slick Engine Assembly Lube in the past but didn’t care for it.

Bottom end was preassembled, I have no idea what the factory uses on the shortblock. Top end was 15w40 T4 and permatex ultra slick on cams/lifters. It’s fine. It’s just important to use some sort of assembly lube.

 

[reklund5]

Just curious, what different engine assembly lube did you use on the bottom and top ends? I tried Permatex 81950 Ultra Slick Engine Assembly Lube in the past but didn’t care for it.

Not to thread hijack- but any thick gooey assembly lube is fine for the rods/mains. A glob of grease in the oil pump cavity per the manual, and motor oil on the pistons/rings before you install them.

In my opinion the most important step is to crank the engine with the starter while the plugs are removed and efi fuse pulled until you see oil pressure on the gauge. Don't fire it until you prime the oiling system!!

 

[rannon]

Installed new oil jet (13516-66011) and oil jet bolt (13516-66011). FSM specifies to torque to 14 ft-lb. I used a small amount of loctite 242 here like the damper because, again, I have trust issues behind the timing cover

Installed used OEM crankshaft rotor, ensuring the flat face goes toward the block. I didn’t see any reason to replace my used one since it fit tight, was straight, and it’s not really a wear item.

Installed new crankshaft timing sprocket (13521-66020) by lining up with the keyway and gently tapping on either side with a brass drift until fully seated. It really doesn’t take much force at all.

On my work table, I placed the new camshaft timing sprocket (13523-66020) inside the new timing chain (13506-66010), aligning the timing mark on the gear with one of the black/“blight” links on the chain. Then, I carefully put two zip ties on the camshaft sprocket to hold the chain in place while I placed the other black link on the crankshaft timing sprocket inline with its timing mark. Then, I added another zip tie around the slipper/damper to try to keep things together—the combination of these three zip ties keeps the chain tight around the crankshaft timing sprocket. It’d be a bad day if the chain jumped a tooth behind the timing cover while assembling the rest of the engine.

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@matthewscruiser your updates here are superb. I am looking at your oil jet and bolt part numbers; they appear to be the same? Does the jet come with a new bolt? Or do you know if the bolt has a separate part number? Your thread here is helping me immensely - thank you!

 

[matthewscruiser]

@matthewscruiser your updates here are superb. I am looking at your oil jet and bolt part numbers; they appear to be the same? Does the jet come with a new bolt? Or do you know if the bolt has a separate part number? Your thread here is helping me immensely - thank you!

Must have been a mistake, thanks for pointing it out. The timing chain oil jet is 13516-66011. The bolt for it is 91511-B0816.

 

[rannon]

Must have been a mistake, thanks for pointing it out. The timing chain oil jet is 13516-66011. The bolt for it is 91511-B0816.

Oh no problem, thanks so much for the reply!