1999 100 series pre-purchase questions

[brian]

i know next to nothing about the 100 series.
one has shown up as a trade in at the local dealership...all i know about it so far, it's green, tan/brown leather with 188K on the clock for $8K....which in todays world seem pretty reasonable.
do these have any known issues with electrical gremlins?
what is the timing belt interval on early v8s?
i have not even seen it in person yet.....friend of a friend put me on to it.
might go look at it tomorrow, not even entirely sure i want it.

 

[GTV]

Click the FAQ thread at the top of the 100 Series forum page.

If it’s only $8k and in PA it’s probably a rust bucket.

 

[whitec13]

Click the FAQ thread at the top of the 100 Series forum page.

If it’s only $8k and in PA it’s probably a rust bucket.

This^ plus the Slee pre purchase inspection FAQ, which I think is pinned in the same thread as above.

 

[brian]

that slee thing is nothing more than the1st day of 1st grade car buying class.....not what im looking for here.

 

[AlpineAccess]

that slee thing is nothing more than the1st day of 1st grade car buying class.....not what im looking for here.

All 2UZs are 90k TB interval. Would test drive it. If the Slee guide is first grade for you then you sound like you'll find any issues. They aren't complicated.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

That slee thing has lots of good info, including known issues and areas to check, I'd maybe give it a re-read. Say you know next to nothing, you're going to get the basics. As for your questions - no systemic electrical issues on '99, of course depends on how it's been cared for. Some posts here about water intrusion behind the dash due to poor windshield install or sunroof drains, but that's not just that MY. Alpine answered your TB question.

 

[brian]

Click the FAQ thread at the top of the 100 Series forum page.

If it’s only $8k and in PA it’s probably a rust bucket.

rust really isnt that scary

 

[brian]

All 2UZs are 90k TB interval. Would test drive it. If the Slee guide is first grade for you then you sound like you'll find any issues. They aren't complicated.

mechanical stuff is easy....i struggle with electrical issues.

 

[suprarx7nut]

The 99 100 LC is unlikely to have any specific "gotchas". The electrics are very basic and robust. It's no Mercedes/BMW, lol. Rust issues are generally the biggest thing to watch. If that doesn't scare you, then you should be fine.

 

[medtro]

 

[jLB]

Based on location, age and price, I’d be concerned about structural rust, but…

rust really isnt that scary

I’ll go slightly against the flow here.

I’d be checking:

-The electronic boosted master cylinder, as it can be a bit of a spendy repair.

-Leaky steering rack, can get mildly expensive, but a little weepy is not uncommon.

-OE CV-axles and drive plates in decent condition, as replacing it all can get a little spendy.

-Timing belt change interval is 90k mi or 7 years, if I remember correctly. It can be a little involved or spendy if it’s not current.

-Functional sun/moon roof. You could always MacGyver a way to seal it up and ignore it, but fixing it is somewhat labor intensive (or expensive if someone else does it). It’s much easier to clear the drains with a functional sun/moon roof. Clogged drains lead to water down the A pillar, and weird electrical issues.

-If the windshield has had a half-assed replacement. If so, that can lead to water leaks, water in the dash area tends to cause weird electrical issues.

-EFI relay/Immobilizer/under hood fuse box issues.

-Hack job electrical additions.

-Any major oil leaks at valve cover, or main seals.

-Ball joints, TRE, suspension bushings, steering bushings, front diff bushings, engine mounts, etc.


I hope that’s not too general and/or elementary for your tastes 😁

 

[OwnerCS]

Is this an LX or LC?

 

[Africaster]

Wish I’d known to check (and how to/what specifically) the following before buying my LC:
1. AHC system
2. Brake system
3. Steering rack
4. Telescoping and Up/down steering wheel functionality
5. Stereo
6. Back hatch door rust

$8k sounds like a bloody good price! Good luck

 

[87warrior]

If there aren't any holes in the frame $8k is solid price.

Things I wish I had known when I bought my 99 7 years ago:
- Get more than one key. Make sure one is a master key, especially if it is an early 100
- Seat motors are a pain when they quit working
- The sunroof sucks
- Brake booster is expensive
- Timing belt and starter are not nearly as scary as the forum makes them out to be
- The thing hanging off the frame is normal

 

[brian]

Its a lc not lx.
No frame or body rust. Clear coat just starting to fail in a few areas.
But the sunroof is crudely chaulked shut, also has crap around all of the roof rack mounts. Tires are about bald.
I went to look at it when the lot was closed...but saw enough to not want it...still not sure if i like the 100 series or not.