1998 TLC UZJ100 frame off resto build log (1 Viewer)

[rampantwolf]

There is something oddly satisfying seeing bare clean steel

Today we hit the bubbled paint left from the aircraft stripper with the power washer.

 

[rampantwolf]

Finally found some time to repair the rotisserie and mount the frame

Next is to degrease the bare steel frame, wipe it down with phosphoric acid and a scotchbrite pad, rinse and dry.

I would use Ospho or POR-15 Metal Prep because they contain phosphoric acid and zinc phosphate which creates the cathodic protection for the steel however I haven’t been able to convince my paint supplier to stock either and I need to have this frame done this weekend.

Then shoot the epoxy primer followed by a couple coats of chassis black or TS Tractor and Implemement paint.

I’m kind of leaning to the TS implement paint because it is also offered in rattle cans so it would make it easy to touch up scrapes which are sure to happen in rough terrain.

Any thoughts on SC Implement paint as a top coat? It is also $25/gallon

 

[rampantwolf]

Here is a daylight pic of the rotisserie

 

[rampantwolf]

I let the Ospho sit 24hrs per the manufacturers instruction.

*** important ***
Some epoxy’s aren’t acid tolerant some are. There is a lot of misinformation in the paint forum how Ospho should be used.

Here are some guidelines:
1. Degrease the entire frame and stripnit of paint.
2. Never spray paint ontop of dried Ospho regardless of what the manufacturer says.
3. To rinse the Ospho off the steel you must first re-activate the dried Ospho by resetting the entire surface with Ospho.
4. Rinsing with the garden hose is fine. You will see a lot of the black powdered iron phosphate peel off. That is normal. I don’t recommend power washing the wetted Ospho. It is too aggressive.
5. Let the steel air dry. The frame will look really galvanized/corroded but this is normal.
6. use a clean and dry purple scotchbrite pad to wipe down every surface. Your goal is to get rid of all the iron phosphate which will easily wipe away and turn to a fine dust. Make sure to wear gloves so that you don’t leave your body oil on the cleaned steel.

The frame will now appear galvanized because Ospho contains zinc phosphate making a galvanic cell with the steel. In other words the zinc will oxidize completely before the steel begins to rust (iron oxide). Once the zinc is depleted the steel will rust again. So this metal prep step buys you enough time to lay the epoxy primer down on rust free steel.

The zinc phosphate will continue to protect the frame after it has been sealed with the epoxy.

Also need to thank MrFireman164 (YouTube channel) for posting up several real world tests of different applications of Ospho:

 

[rampantwolf]

Here is a Sherwin-Williams comparison of several different types of epoxies in case you are interested:

https://protective.sherwin-williams.com/pdf/epoxy_coating_comparison_chart.pdf

 

[rampantwolf]

If you wonder if you were able to rinse off the Ospho completely, which is (phosphoric acid and zinc phosphate) you can lick the steel for a “taste test”

If the metal taste sour there is still acid on the surface. Clean the spot you licked with brake cleaner. Haha.

It’s safe as you regularly injest massive amounts of phosphoric acid when you drink Coca Cola

Having said that, please don’t go licking your frame because your neighbors will think you have gone mad and it may still contain hydrocarbons

 

[rampantwolf]

Something interesting I have noticed is that the phosphoric acid will deteriorate the scotchbrite pad until it feels like gum. Ask me how I know? I stepped on some of it and couldn’t get it off the sole. Next day I found some of this dried gum and it broke down to a powder.

Lesson to be learned, be safe when handling chemicals. Wear gloves and a full face respirator that has filters rated to protect you from organic compounds.

 

[rampantwolf]

First coat of epoxy primer is done

There is always something I forget. Notice pic with missing exhaust hanger. Will metal prep that before laying down second coat of primer.

Second coat of primer will be grey so I can tell where I sprayed. (tomorrow)

Then two top coats of DTM chassis black. (Hopefully tomorrow)

 

[rampantwolf]

View attachment 1728044
Then shoot the epoxy primer followed by a couple coats of chassis black or TS Tractor and Implemement paint.

I’m kind of leaning to the TS implement paint because it is also offered in rattle cans so it would make it easy to touch up scrapes which are sure to happen in rough terrain.

Any thoughts on SC Implement paint as a top coat? It is also $25/gallon

Ok now that I’m getting closer to spraying the top coat I revistes my test spray of the TSC Tractor and Implement paint and it is out of the question. The test piece still hasn’t hardened after several weeks. After a quick google search for reviews on the product, others have found the same issue. I guess it’s true, you get what you pay for.

Kind of feel like I dodged a bullet today

 

[suprarx7nut]

Very cool! Not to often you see a 100 Series frame on a rotisserie!

 

[REZARF]

You're my hero. I would have quite and or sold it all off a LONG time ago... that kind of work is TIME CONSUMING!

It's cool to see what has got to be the first body off frame resto's on 'Mud... 20 year old 100 series now, wow.

 

[rampantwolf]

Sprayed the second coat of epoxy primer this morning. BTW the brand is Lusid Northstar EP210B resin with EX355 catalyst and S065 fast reducer (SDS says its Acetone). Brock over at Lusid was really helpful giving me tech support. This is the first time I’ve used their product but the guys at Fox Automotive in Georgetown, Texas says it works well.

According to the epoxy manufacturer (Lusid.biz) I have 48 hours to spray before having to re-scuf the finish.

I’ve decided to put a coat of semi gloss POR Top coat chassis black which I already have a 1.5 gallons in the shop. It’s not Por-15, it’s their oil based enamel.

The second top coat will be their gloss black POR chassis black. If I’m going to get this thing muddy I want it to come off easily.

Any objections to a glossy chassis? Please tell me now if so. Thx

 

[LEX]

Gloss! Gloss!

 

[rampantwolf]

You're my hero. I would have quite and or sold it all off a LONG time ago... that kind of work is TIME CONSUMING!

It's cool to see what has got to be the first body off frame resto's on 'Mud... 20 year old 100 series now, wow.

Thank you for the kind words REZARF but it is you who have inspired me. I’ve read your build thread several times all the way through

 

[rampantwolf]

Surprised the wifey with tix to Weezer and The Pixies tonight. A bit of tailgating before with Red wine.

 

[rampantwolf]

You didnt think I was not going to update y’all lol

Did get up at 5:30 this morning, metal prepped a bunch of braces, steering knuckles, brake shields, sway bars, pull points, control arms
, and 6x factory wheels (2 spares). Thanks to Patrick, who sanded all six wheels while i metal and paint prepped all steel parts.

Put a coat of epoxy primer on everything except the wheels.

Tomorrow, We are planning on finishing some more epoxy on odd spots and the wheels.

 

[rampantwolf]

My metal prep steps (getting ready for epoxy primer):

***Safety: we will be working with chemicals and you will need to wear a full face resprator, gloves and long sleeve clothing you don’t mind wearing out. The respirator needs new active carbon filters with adding particulate filters (they wear out by becoming saturated with orgánica for being exposed to air—I tape over the cartridges when not used). BTW...I use the 3M black stripe cartridge that is rated for organic chemicals.

1. Degrease the part
2. Use aircraft stripper to strip paint. May take multiple times. Tip: dab a thick amount onto part with a natural fiber paint brush. You aren’t painting here. Dab, dab, dab. No strokes. Lol
3. Power wash part for loose paint from step 2.
4. Spray (soak) part in Ospho. Use a red scotchbrite pad to work the surface rust. You will need to get rid of any rust whit whatever means (media blast, Red or brown 3M roloc disc, phosphoric acid bath or electrolysis). Follow any rust removal work with your soaked red 3M abrasive pad.
5. Let sit (preferably for 24 hrs). I wait until part turns a Death Star Dark gray.
6. When dry—You will need to re-activate the Ospho acid by wetting it with more Ospho. Water won’t do.
7. When the part is fully soaked again—you can rinse it thoroughly with the garden hose.
8. Set it in the Sun to dry.
9. When the part is dry wipe down the dry part with a clean red 3M abrasive pad, careful to knock down all phosphate dust (copper, Iron, zink).
10. This will leave a nice patina. Once the part is smooth and dust free it is ready to hang on a rack— ready for the epoxy primer.

 

[rampantwolf]

MSDS
Ospho contains phosphoric acid and zinc phosphate, water.

Phosphoric acid is used at low levels in food products like Coca Cola. It gives the Cole the tart/crisp taste. It is also used as a fertilizer, etc. Beware, In large and and prolonged doses it can weaken your bones.

Aircraft stripper is really nasty stuff. Thin mechanic gloves will not do. You need to be in a well ventilated area because the stripper is very volatile.

Epoxy primer is also bad stuff and you have to be cautious. I reduce the primer using Acetone (a skin irritant).

When I paint I’m in a full body, white Tyvek paint suit and my full face respirator with active carbon filters. Anything less is irresponsible.

Explosion safety: I do not use fans in the make shift booth Bobby prepared. Fans motors often use slip brushes which can ignite the volatile fumes. I also keep a good cross flow of ventilation. I use the booth to keep the overspray from flying around the neighborhood and landing on my neighbors cars and stuff.

If you take the right safety precautions there is no reason why this isn’t a very efficient method. You have to put your “pro Hat” on though lol

 

[rampantwolf]

Weezer is killing it

 

[rampantwolf]

Shot the wheels with epoxy primer this morning