- Thread starter
- #201
1998 TLC UZJ100 frame off resto build log
- Thread starter rampantwolf
- Start date
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- #202
2K Topcoat Black - SprayMax
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- #203
The TSP was applied with a power washer
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- #204
This isn’t some trailer queen. I’ve still got to do some body work and new paint eventually but at least I’m starting from a solid foundation.
Nicely done Mate!
Love it, I’ve got mine almost down to bare metal, little more to do, after I will wash and then use por 15 metal prep. 2 coats of por15 after that then prime and top coat.First I stripped the frame down to bare metal and power washed its using TSP soap. Then etched it with phosphoric acid containing zinc phosphate in it for anodic protection. Then I drag lined the frame rails and body seams with Eastwood frame coating paint. This also contains zinc phosphate. On the bare metal that was exposed I used 2k Spray Max Epoxy primer in black and gray alternating layers for color indication if I get deep scratches or chips that need to be addressed after overlanding. This was followed by a final top coat of SprayMax 2K gloss black paint for easy cleaning.
Eastwood Black Internal Frame Coating Aerosol and Nozzle Kit
Internal Frame Coating destroys rust hiding inside the chassis, so it does not rust its way through. You spend time and money restoring a chassis, but what about all that rust inside the frame? Use our Internal Frame Coating to make your chassis rust freewww.eastwood.com
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- #207
I tested POR-15 metal prep then a coat of POR-15 on direct metal and I couldn’t get it to stick. I think their metal prep is for their DTM top coat only. Not sure but I would test it first. Also be aware that POR-15 is some seriously nasty stuff if you accidentally breath it in, especially so if spraying rather than rolling. IMHO POR-15 is great for rusted areas that still has a rusted surface that is rough. Another consideration is that POR-15 isn’t UV stable and therefore needs a top coat to protect it. With that said I love POR-15
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- #208
2k Epoxy primer will be the best sealant to bare metal. Some try DTM chassis paint but IMHO epoxy can’t be beat. I mean it’s an adhesive basically. It does require a top coat since epoxy isn’t UV stable. That brings up the cost over DTM.
- Thread starter
- #209
Ok got the car on the road this week. I got a bit of a tranny clunk. Searched the forums and found some suggestions.
She’s got a bit of a rake to her. May need to go down to a medium spring or wait until I add more stuff to her like the fridge freezer and RTT.
She’s got a bit of a rake to her. May need to go down to a medium spring or wait until I add more stuff to her like the fridge freezer and RTT.
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- #211
Thank you brother. Very much appreciated. I’m going to check it now and let you know.
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- #212
I’ll be around today trying to solve my vacuum leaks and hopefully recharge the AC. It’s getting hot out there. Stop by if you are in the area.
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- #213
Thank you for dropping that bezel off. It looks identical to what I have except that mine is a one piece that fits from top to bottom of the dash controls. What year was that suppose to fit? Maybe the years after the facelift?
I thought it was good for 1998-2000. This is what I dropped off: Beat-Sonic Double-DIN Dash Kit for Landcruiser & Lexus Vehicles (SLA-100FB) - https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-109881-Beat-Sonic-Double-DIN-Dash-Kit-for-Landcruiser-Lexus-Vehicles-SLA-100FB.html
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- #215
I know there was a change of the climate control and dash at some point. I think it was 2003. I wonder if that is what if so for. Maybe one of the members can post up their 2003-2007 AC control dash?
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- #216
How to change the clock spring on a 1998 Land Cruiser?
I haven’t found any useful write ups on the inter webs so here goes.
You will need:
a 19mm socket
a T30 Torx
a Philips screwdriver
Slide hammer or pulley puller
1. Disconnect the battery. We will be working around the airbag and you don’t want an accidental discharge. Some say to wait some time after disconnecting.
2. Straighten out the front wheels so that you line up your steering wheel in the normal driving position. IOW the front wheels are positioned straight ahead.
3. Remove the two small plastic access port covers located on left and right side of the steering wheel column plastic. One is where the windshield wiper lever is and the other is a blank. They pop out if you pry them a little.
4. Use your T30 Torx driver to unscrew the two retaining bolts holding the airbag and horn. Don’t bother trying to remove them. They have a plastic clip to hold them in place.
5. The airbag and horn should pull right out.
6. Disconnect the airbag/horn
7. Use your 19mm to remove the steering wheel but.
8. My steering wheel was on there pretty tight and took several slide hammer blows to pop the wheel off.
9. Unscrew the three Philips screws holding the steering wheel column plastic. Don’t bother removing the bottom part. It’s kind of stuck in the steering wheel tilt lever.
10. The clock spring is a black plastic housing that contains a wound up ribbon cable that allows you to turn your steering wheel left or right 2.5 turns and still maintain an electrical connection to your steering wheel controls, horn and airbag. Admittedly I let my little girl play in the car when the steering wheel column was disconnected and the wheel spun freely. Turning the wheel in either direction past the 2.5 turns will snap your clock spring.
11. Remove the clock spring and its 4 Phillips screws.
12. To install the new clock spring you will need to follow the directions printed on the clock spring. There is an alignment triangle/arrow to align. To align it properly gently turn the clock spring until you feel some slight resistance in the left direction. Then unwind the clock spring in the right direction 2.5 turns. Your alignment marks should be more or less lined up at this point.
13. Install the new clock spring.
14. The rest of the assembly steps are just the reverse of assembly.
Here are the same steps with pictures:
1. Disconnect the battery. We will be working around the airbag and you don’t want an accidental discharge. Some say to wait some time after disconnecting.
2. Straighten out the front wheels so that you line up your steering wheel in the normal driving position. IOW the front wheels are positioned straight ahead.
3. Remove the two small plastic access port covers located on left and right side of the steering wheel column plastic. One is where the windshield wiper lever is and the other is a blank. They pop out if you pry them a little.
4. Use your T30 Torx driver to unscrew the two retaining bolts holding the airbag and horn. Don’t bother trying to remove them. They have a plastic clip to hold them in place.
5. The airbag and horn assembly should pull right out.
6. Disconnect the airbag/horn
7. Use your 19mm socket to remove the steering wheel nut.
8. My steering wheel was on there pretty tight and took several slide hammer blows to pop the wheel off.
9. Unscrew the three Philips screws holding the steering wheel column plastic. Don’t bother removing the bottom part. It’s kind of stuck in the steering wheel tilt lever.
10. The clock spring is a black plastic housing that contains a wound up ribbon cable that allows you to turn your steering wheel left or right 2.5 turns and still maintain an electrical connection to your steering wheel controls, horn and airbag. Admittedly I let my little girl play in the car when the steering wheel column was disconnected and the wheel spun freely. Turning the wheel in either direction past the 2.5 turns will snap your clock spring.
I haven’t found any useful write ups on the inter webs so here goes.
You will need:
a 19mm socket
a T30 Torx
a Philips screwdriver
Slide hammer or pulley puller
1. Disconnect the battery. We will be working around the airbag and you don’t want an accidental discharge. Some say to wait some time after disconnecting.
2. Straighten out the front wheels so that you line up your steering wheel in the normal driving position. IOW the front wheels are positioned straight ahead.
3. Remove the two small plastic access port covers located on left and right side of the steering wheel column plastic. One is where the windshield wiper lever is and the other is a blank. They pop out if you pry them a little.
4. Use your T30 Torx driver to unscrew the two retaining bolts holding the airbag and horn. Don’t bother trying to remove them. They have a plastic clip to hold them in place.
5. The airbag and horn should pull right out.
6. Disconnect the airbag/horn
7. Use your 19mm to remove the steering wheel but.
8. My steering wheel was on there pretty tight and took several slide hammer blows to pop the wheel off.
9. Unscrew the three Philips screws holding the steering wheel column plastic. Don’t bother removing the bottom part. It’s kind of stuck in the steering wheel tilt lever.
10. The clock spring is a black plastic housing that contains a wound up ribbon cable that allows you to turn your steering wheel left or right 2.5 turns and still maintain an electrical connection to your steering wheel controls, horn and airbag. Admittedly I let my little girl play in the car when the steering wheel column was disconnected and the wheel spun freely. Turning the wheel in either direction past the 2.5 turns will snap your clock spring.
11. Remove the clock spring and its 4 Phillips screws.
12. To install the new clock spring you will need to follow the directions printed on the clock spring. There is an alignment triangle/arrow to align. To align it properly gently turn the clock spring until you feel some slight resistance in the left direction. Then unwind the clock spring in the right direction 2.5 turns. Your alignment marks should be more or less lined up at this point.
13. Install the new clock spring.
14. The rest of the assembly steps are just the reverse of assembly.
Here are the same steps with pictures:
1. Disconnect the battery. We will be working around the airbag and you don’t want an accidental discharge. Some say to wait some time after disconnecting.
2. Straighten out the front wheels so that you line up your steering wheel in the normal driving position. IOW the front wheels are positioned straight ahead.
3. Remove the two small plastic access port covers located on left and right side of the steering wheel column plastic. One is where the windshield wiper lever is and the other is a blank. They pop out if you pry them a little.
4. Use your T30 Torx driver to unscrew the two retaining bolts holding the airbag and horn. Don’t bother trying to remove them. They have a plastic clip to hold them in place.
5. The airbag and horn assembly should pull right out.
6. Disconnect the airbag/horn
7. Use your 19mm socket to remove the steering wheel nut.
8. My steering wheel was on there pretty tight and took several slide hammer blows to pop the wheel off.
9. Unscrew the three Philips screws holding the steering wheel column plastic. Don’t bother removing the bottom part. It’s kind of stuck in the steering wheel tilt lever.
10. The clock spring is a black plastic housing that contains a wound up ribbon cable that allows you to turn your steering wheel left or right 2.5 turns and still maintain an electrical connection to your steering wheel controls, horn and airbag. Admittedly I let my little girl play in the car when the steering wheel column was disconnected and the wheel spun freely. Turning the wheel in either direction past the 2.5 turns will snap your clock spring.
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- Thread starter
- #217
11. Remove the clock spring and its 4 Phillips screws.
12. To install the new clock spring you will need to follow the directions printed on the clock spring. There is an alignment triangle/arrow to align.
To align it properly gently turn the clock spring until you feel some slight resistance in the left direction. Then unwind the clock spring in the right direction 2.5 turns. Your alignment marks should be more or less lined up at this point.
13. Install the new clock spring.
14. The rest of the assembly steps are just the reverse of assembly.
12. To install the new clock spring you will need to follow the directions printed on the clock spring. There is an alignment triangle/arrow to align.
To align it properly gently turn the clock spring until you feel some slight resistance in the left direction. Then unwind the clock spring in the right direction 2.5 turns. Your alignment marks should be more or less lined up at this point.
13. Install the new clock spring.
14. The rest of the assembly steps are just the reverse of assembly.
- Thread starter
- #218
Here is what a typical clock spring looks like. Kind of a donut shape.
What symptom led you to replace the clock spring?
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- #220
The horn wasn’t working AND I know that my baby girl had been in the cab when I had it off the chassis, spinning the steering wheel freely to her hearts content pretending she was driving.
My 98 doesn’t have all the steering wheel buttons more modern LC’s do. If you find these steering wheel controls non-functioning it is a good chance your clock spring is snapped.
I’ve learned my lesson, if you disconnect the steering column make sure to lock the steering wheel in place first.
