- Thread starter
- #41
Sprayed the front of the wheels. Let them sit for an hour to flag off. Moved everything outside to bake in the hot Texas sun
1998 TLC UZJ100 frame off resto build log (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter rampantwolf
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #42
Did I mention that it was 101F today
- Thread starter
- #43
- Thread starter
- #44
What color should the wheels be?
1. Flat black
2. Semi gloss black
3. Glossy black
4. Bronze
5. Other (your preference)
Btw...they will go on a dark blue 98 LC.
1. Flat black
2. Semi gloss black
3. Glossy black
4. Bronze
5. Other (your preference)
Btw...they will go on a dark blue 98 LC.
- Thread starter
- #46
Thx for the vote.
I like flat black however it’s flat texture is difficult to rinse off?
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- Thread starter
- #47
Painted two do the wheels using POR 15 Brand chassis satin black Top Coat. I’m not having a good experience with it. I can’t seem to get it dialed in. It barely wants to flow out of the 1.8 tip.
If I lay down a wet coat it runs. If I back off just a bit it looks like overspray. When I have to back away from the part to get the inside lays down like rhino-liner. It’s a damned if I do and damned if I don’t situation.
Ibe ordered some of the exclusive POR15 Reducer and will pick it up tomorrow.
As far as toughness, it’s great. While knocking down the texture using 80 grit sandpaper, the Top Coat destroyed the my sand paper quickly. I will give it one more shot on Thursday/Friday before going with the tried and tested Eastwood Chassis Black.
Any suggestions?
If I lay down a wet coat it runs. If I back off just a bit it looks like overspray. When I have to back away from the part to get the inside lays down like rhino-liner. It’s a damned if I do and damned if I don’t situation.
Ibe ordered some of the exclusive POR15 Reducer and will pick it up tomorrow.
As far as toughness, it’s great. While knocking down the texture using 80 grit sandpaper, the Top Coat destroyed the my sand paper quickly. I will give it one more shot on Thursday/Friday before going with the tried and tested Eastwood Chassis Black.
Any suggestions?
- Thread starter
- #48
I haven’t found any answers on the internet so I’m documenting the technical support response from the POR15 customer support about “How to spray POR15 Top Coat” here:
“we’d typically suggest thinning our Top Coat by 10-15% to spray out of a 1.5 to 1.6 size tip. Our products are designed to be applied in THIN covering coats, not heavy. A 1.8 size tip would put down too much product. The pores are a result from having too much paint down, as the product is “off-gassing” from below. You can scuff out those pores or imperfections after a couple days of cure, then apply another coat at 1.5 mils WET. “
“we’d typically suggest thinning our Top Coat by 10-15% to spray out of a 1.5 to 1.6 size tip. Our products are designed to be applied in THIN covering coats, not heavy. A 1.8 size tip would put down too much product. The pores are a result from having too much paint down, as the product is “off-gassing” from below. You can scuff out those pores or imperfections after a couple days of cure, then apply another coat at 1.5 mils WET. “
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- #49
Metal prepping the front differential for epoxy primer
- Thread starter
- #50
Picked up a sweet 3M belt sander today marked down 50% and wow does it work well with 60 grit.
3M 33575-case File Belt Sander (457 Mm 18 In (1 Per Box) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPH5YV5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yJXpBbJ8Z3ACX
3M 33575-case File Belt Sander (457 Mm 18 In (1 Per Box) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPH5YV5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yJXpBbJ8Z3ACX
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- #51
Metal prepping (using Ospho and their instructions) front and rear differentials and getting ready to try some Eastwood 2k Aero-Spray Epoxy Primer out of a rattle can.
Time will tell how this coating will hold up and this thread will document it.
Time will tell how this coating will hold up and this thread will document it.
- Thread starter
- #52
Here is a metal prep product guide/white paper from PPG
- Thread starter
- #53
***important***
Remove the aluminum differential cover from the axle BEFORE spraying Ospho (phosphoric acid) on the diff. That goes for any dissimilar metals.
Any chemists in our forum that can shed some light on this?
Here is what I think happened. Please correct me if I’m wrong.
I think I just created a galvanic cell between the dissimilar aluminum and iron, both at different anodic potentials, in a phosphoric/zinc electrolyte. In effect I electroplated the steel with aluminum, phosphor, zinc or all three, not sure.
The steel is now coated in a white powder. I’m guessing that plated aluminum turned to aluminum oxide within minutes of being exposed to the air.
Big whoops guys. Learning from the school of hardnocks...is well...hard. At least now you can save your self the trouble of having to abrade off all that white powder.
Remove the aluminum differential cover from the axle BEFORE spraying Ospho (phosphoric acid) on the diff. That goes for any dissimilar metals.
Any chemists in our forum that can shed some light on this?
Here is what I think happened. Please correct me if I’m wrong.
I think I just created a galvanic cell between the dissimilar aluminum and iron, both at different anodic potentials, in a phosphoric/zinc electrolyte. In effect I electroplated the steel with aluminum, phosphor, zinc or all three, not sure.
The steel is now coated in a white powder. I’m guessing that plated aluminum turned to aluminum oxide within minutes of being exposed to the air.
Big whoops guys. Learning from the school of hardnocks...is well...hard. At least now you can save your self the trouble of having to abrade off all that white powder.
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- Thread starter
- #54
Two coats (two cans at ~$20/ea) Eastwood Aero-Spray Epoxy Primer are on both the front and rear axel.
- Thread starter
- #55
Eastwood Aero-Spray Epoxy Primer Application Review
I’ve got to hand it to Eastwood. This product flows nicely and dries quick. Back of the Can says it contains a ceramic. I suppose that is for additional hardness and scratch resilience.
The rattle can contains a two part primer with a separate built in container for the catalyst. Instructions recommends shaking the resin for at least two minutes before breaking the internal catalyst container.
The catalyst seal is broken by removing the red button from the lid, turning the Can upside down with the Can lid attached. You attach the red button to a push plunger on the bottom and press firmly. Once depressed the resin and catalyst is shaken together for two minutes. You now have 48 hours to spray before the epoxy pot life is reached.
The trigger has an outlet that rotates for both vertical and horizontal fan patterns. The tip atomization is great. There is a volume adjustment on the trigger knob too. What a pleasant surprise.
I’ve got to hand it to Eastwood. This product flows nicely and dries quick. Back of the Can says it contains a ceramic. I suppose that is for additional hardness and scratch resilience.
The rattle can contains a two part primer with a separate built in container for the catalyst. Instructions recommends shaking the resin for at least two minutes before breaking the internal catalyst container.
The catalyst seal is broken by removing the red button from the lid, turning the Can upside down with the Can lid attached. You attach the red button to a push plunger on the bottom and press firmly. Once depressed the resin and catalyst is shaken together for two minutes. You now have 48 hours to spray before the epoxy pot life is reached.
The trigger has an outlet that rotates for both vertical and horizontal fan patterns. The tip atomization is great. There is a volume adjustment on the trigger knob too. What a pleasant surprise.
- Thread starter
- #56
Decided to re-spray 4 cans of Eastwood Internal Chassis spray again just in case the paint stripper got in there earlier. Got every nook and cranny. The grey you see in the image is the second coat of 2k Epoxy primer. It was abraded with 400 grit before applying the internal chassis paint.
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- #57
Hit the hubcaps and inside and back of wheels with a coat of Eastwood 2k ceramic gloss black ceramic paint. Then we got rained out. Will have to finish the front side of the wheels after the rains pass then end of next week. I have to say that I tried 3 different black chassis paints until finally find this awesome paint. It is so nice to shoot. A beautiful finish. It contains ceramic nano particles for durability. Now here is the kicker, the cherry on top of this tasty desert, this paint comes in 2-part rattle cans that will let me do touch ups easily after rough riding the trails.
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- #58
Update: we have had some flooding here in Texas. It’s been dry and ~80F today.
Decided to finish the Eastwood 2k Chassis black (gloss) on all 6 wheels and the frame.
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- #59
Before...
...and after
...and after
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- #60
