1997 Restoration
- Thread starter truthdetector
- Start date
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^^^^^
Yup, linex, raptor, camo rattle can are not the right product for this whatsoever.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Galvanizing should only be like 500 bucks. It's dipped in acid which removes all leftover surface rust. Then dipped in the tank for Galvanizing.
I would, without any doubt whatsoever, coat it in 646 while you have the body off.
When you say it, it just sounds so dirty!
truthdetector
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #47
Hi @Mixelplix.
I'm going to go to my local Sherwin Williams to inquire. Given that we will be de-scaling, wire wheeling and sanding...
1) Would you spray a rust converter into the nooks and crannys and then re-sand?
2) What primer would you use under the 646?
You'll want to specify the Macropoxy 646-100 Fast Cure Epoxy.
This can be a direct to metal product that "Can be applied directly to marginally prepared steel surfaces" (directly from the application sheet.)
Get the data sheets here:
Macropoxy 646-100 Data Sheets
truthdetector
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #50
Have you started a thread?
Not for this cruiser yet, but I should (will). Like you, I pulled the gas tank. Realized in hindsight, that I didn't really need to. Ah well.
truthdetector
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #52
It's a pain, but I definitely needed to do it because the straps and bolts were shot. Plus, it will let the painter get to that part of the underbody.
If I had a vehicle with the body off the frame AND had a local shop that could galvanize it for $500, I would absolutely do it.
POR-15, epoxies, and urethane modified alkyds are great, but nothing would compare to an acid bath and full galvanized dip. Finish with a black epoxy primer for looks.
truthdetector
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #54
Decided to go with the Macropoxy. Expensive, but sounds like it's going to be worth it.
It's good stuff.
It's going to be much thicker and take a bit more doing than good ol' laytex or oil paint.
Don't thin it unless you have the correct thinner listed on the can or the spec sheet from Sherwin.
If you've not used 2 part before you'll want to know you should mix smaller batches at a time.
Your brushes and what not will become hard junk before long so have extras. Enjoy the buzz if the door/windows are are closed.
I think you will be happy wit it's long term durability.
It's going to be much thicker and take a bit more doing than good ol' laytex or oil paint.
Don't thin it unless you have the correct thinner listed on the can or the spec sheet from Sherwin.
If you've not used 2 part before you'll want to know you should mix smaller batches at a time.
Your brushes and what not will become hard junk before long so have extras. Enjoy the buzz if the door/windows are are closed.
I think you will be happy wit it's long term durability.
truthdetector
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #56
Thank you. I got a small (half-gallon I think) mixing bucket and three brushes. Not going to thin it. Plan is do a small batch at first to get to know it. Plenty of ventilation and a respirator will be involved.
Might be a couple of weeks before I have pics because there are a lot of broken bolts that need to be drilled out of the frame and then I'm going to spray the Eastwood internal frame coating wherever I can reach with it. Also need to clean and prep the axle housings since they too will be getting the 646. I'm guessing/hoping that 2 gallons of product will provide two coats on the frame and both axles.
Try "Atlas Springs" They are out of California. I am going with them and returning my 60 to factory height. I'm removing the previous owners older OME shocks and springs 2 inch lift.
I’d paint your LC dark forest green.
truthdetector
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #59
Got almost all of the broken bolts extracted from the frame, but have a few critical ones that are giving us grief.
Three of the four rear sway-bar bracket bolt holes have snapped-off bolts in them and they are eating up drill bits. I ordered a couple of carbide bits to go after them again, but am worried that even if the bolts come out, the threads are going to be too messed up to be able to properly torque down those brackets.
We have a few ideas - would appreciate some opinions:
1) drill out larger and install helicoils
2) create access holes in the side of the frame to be able to install a new nut in each
3) weld the brackets to the frame
Welding would be strongest, but would that limit options *if* I decide to lift the truck in the future, or is the option for a longer sway bar link vs. the extended bracket sufficient?
Three of the four rear sway-bar bracket bolt holes have snapped-off bolts in them and they are eating up drill bits. I ordered a couple of carbide bits to go after them again, but am worried that even if the bolts come out, the threads are going to be too messed up to be able to properly torque down those brackets.
We have a few ideas - would appreciate some opinions:
1) drill out larger and install helicoils
2) create access holes in the side of the frame to be able to install a new nut in each
3) weld the brackets to the frame
Welding would be strongest, but would that limit options *if* I decide to lift the truck in the future, or is the option for a longer sway bar link vs. the extended bracket sufficient?
ppc
M Go Blue
The best solution at this point is to weld nuts to the broken bolts. The heat generated by welding, passed through the bolt, will breakdown the rust bond between the broken bolt and the original nut integrated into the frame.
