1997 Restoration

[ZetheGSD]

The best solution at this point is to weld nuts to the broken bolts. The heat generated by welding, passed through the bolt, will breakdown the rust bond between the broken bolt and the original nut integrated into the frame.

100000000% agree with this. I just spent a couple days salvaging my muffler assembly as an 02 sensor stud broke off in the cast iron welded adapter in the exhaust tube. No amount of torch heat would get the stud hot enough as the exhaust tube would immediately cool the area too fast to be able to use my stud extractor. After a couple failed attempts, the welded nut backed out the broken stud like I just installed a brand new bolt with antiseize. This is the way.

 

[truthdetector]

Dealing with the broken bolts for the rear stabilizer bar brackets has been postponed. Planning to weld the brackets on later. Current objective is to get the axles and frame re-acquainted so we can then put the body back on in order to have the rig in a condition where it can be safely trailered to a body shop. Once we get the body back on the chassis, we'll begin stripping the interior and engine bay.

Current status: Macropoxy 646 has been applied.

 

[truthdetector]

Making some progress.

Got the axles back under the frame and started to bolt on brackets and new brake lines. Replacing all hard lines except the tiny one on the passenger front and the one that goes across the firewall, both of which are NLA.

De-rusting and re-painting all of the control arms:

Cleaned fuel tank and coated in Macropoxy. Replaced all removable parts including rubber cushions. The OEM cushions are NLA, but I just got a roll of 3" wide rubber and cut to length.

Fully cleaned and applied Macropoxy to the belly. Mounted fuel tank and insulators.

 

[truthdetector]

Got the steering gearbox rebuilt, painted, and installed. The u-joint was rusted on the shaft so bad, I just ended up buying the valve assembly (44120-60180), which comes with the shaft and piston. Also got a new sector shaft.

 

[truthdetector]

All four calipers were in pretty bad shape, so complete rebuild and paint was in order.

 

[truthdetector]

This happened when trying to get the old tie rod ends out. New tie rods on the way.

 

[truthdetector]

In the rear, all new parking brake parts, rebuilt calipers, new wheel bearings, new rotors.

 

[truthdetector]

Interior stripped except the door cards - planning to remove those and the door glass this weekend. Got the rear quarter windows out and found a little rust along the bottom of the driver's side. Other than that, the only other rust in the interior is in the driver foot well under the dead pedal.

The sound deadening pad behind the "subwoofer" is interestingly saggy.

Once the door cards, door glass, and rear hatch glass have been removed, it will be time to trailer it to the body shop for paint!

While it is out for body work and paint, I'll be working on putting the 1FZ back together and re-covering the seats with the LCH premium leather kit.

 

[NKP Garage]

Amazing work! I love your attention to detail!

 

[eyesack]

following

 

[truthdetector]

Been a while since I posted - busy with summer projects, but the LC continues to progress slowly.

Since the rig was sitting, I decided to get the 5 wheels addressed. Powder-coat, new shoes, new lug nuts, and new center caps:

My hopes of trailering the rig somewhere for body and paint prior to installing the drivetrain are officially dashed. Having a really tough time finding someone to take on the project and when I do get some positive response, there is a long lead-time.

No worries - plenty of other work to do. Went ahead and cleaned/painted the engine bay and the focus is now to get the drivetrain in.

Building the engine has been fun and satisfying. Been referencing lots of MUD posts and YouTube videos.

Currently waiting on the valve cover from the powder coater and the injectors from witch hunter.

The valve buckets got mixed up (by me), so the clearances didn't check out when we to got the cams in, so I had to order a few new shims. Upon second installation of the cams with the updated shims, all clearances are now in spec.

 

[jpoole]

Great work on this. What are the chances that you just end up painting it yourself at this point?

 

[truthdetector]

Great work on this. What are the chances that you just end up painting it yourself at this point?

There are a few rust spots and some dings that need to be addressed and I don't have the tools or skills to do it correctly. I have no problem waiting until I find the right people to do a good job - plenty to do in the meantime.

 

[truthdetector]

Got the valve cover back, injectors are on the way. Dry-fit the upper stuff just to get a preview of what it's going to look like.

Got that 90-degree oil filter adapter I learned about from another thread a while ago. Still undecided if I'm going to keep it.

 

[truthdetector]

Injectors are back. They were in pretty good shape before, but even better now.

 

[SpillmanCruiser]

Injectors are back. They were in pretty good shape before, but even better now.

View attachment 3153058

I am so insanely jealous of this whole thread. My 80 has been waiting patiently for this kind of love. I need shop and a retired friend.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

this thread makes me feel a way that only James May can explain...

 

[truthdetector]

Side quests... I had taken the wiper motor cap off to address rust and repaint and couldn't resist tearing the rest of it down so I could clean up the housing, buff the commutator, and re-pack with new grease.

Still need to clean the wiring harness and connector.

 

[truthdetector]

Side quest… currently working on passenger front seat reupholstering. (Land Cruiser Heaven leather kit with new front seat bottoms and front seat heaters)

Two challenges.

1) where exactly to position the backrest heater. I cut out the two areas where there was no heating element, but they didn’t line up with the metal mounting rods in the foam, so I cut one row of conductor out to make it line up. Resistance of the circuit changed (can’t remember the values), so I hope I didn’t do damage to the overall function. I think I’ll get a 12v power supply and test it out before I button it up.

2) power seat control trim plate. I visited every thread on this topic and have been terrified to break the tabs. Ended up cutting the leather around the plate and I could then get access to release the tabs with my finger.

Success!

A keen eye will see that the mounting post for the recline button is broken off because some dumb gorilla threw the seat sideways in the back of his SUV with the controls facing down. Going to try some UV curing glue to see how well it will hold.

 

[truthdetector]

Side quest... did these earlier this year, but I didn't post to this thread. Rear seats with the LCH kit.

Old v. new.

Closer shot to show the texture.

Full leather back on new vs. vinyl on OEM.

No idea why the bottom carpet is a different color, but ¯\_(ツ)_/¯