Build 1996 HZJ75 Land Cruiser Pickup

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Depending on which printing, it was either one book or two. Maybe a printing limitation or maybe for practicality. 🤷‍♂️

I have both the 1 book and the 2 book versions. The 1 book is much older....I think 1990 version. The 2 book version is a new copy I got from @joekatana awhile back when it was still in print.

Anyways, that new oil pan is a beauty.
 
Anyways, that new oil pan is a beauty.
Thanks! It is actually the original pan. I had it powder coated after I welded on the -10AN turbo drain fitting.
 
I made a little bit of progress tonight - Got the water pump installed with the new turbo H2O hardline. Plus some random PC’d brackets.

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Ok, 1HZ engine experts (@joekatana, @orangefj45, @Onur, @cruiseroutfit, @c2dfj45, @mudandrock), I need some feedback.

I installed the timing belt today (I think correctly).
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I followed the FSM to a Tee. One of the first steps for disassembly is to turn the crankshaft until the No. 1 and No. 2 camshaft gear grooves were at the BDC marks, which I did.

Upon reassembly, before I put the timing belt on, I confirmed that both cam gears were dead-nuts on the BDC marks. I was very careful that they hadn't moved while I had been monkeying around with H20 hardlines.

Anyway, after installing the timing belt, the FSM recommends "turn the crankshaft pulley clockwise and check that each pulley aligns with the TDC marks."

I turned the crank probably 3/4 revolution before the No. 1 camshaft gear was at TDC mark. However, the No. 2 injection pump and crankshaft was off. This is what it looked like.

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I decided to spin it one more full revolution and try to get the crank shaft pulley and No. 2 IP gear aligned at TDC, then remove the timing belt and adjust the No. 1 gear. To my surprise, this is the status after a full revolution.

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Everything is right on the money!!!

Am I good? Do you just have to turn the motor a full revolution before everything aligns? Was it 1/2 revolution off the first time?

Before I began disassembly, was it possible for the No. 1 and No. 2 cam gears to be at the BDC marks, but the No. 1 cylinder not be at BDC?

Thanks for the help.
 
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Looks so easy to do with the motor out, not that it is difficult to do with it installed.

I am no expert but I pretty much followed the same steps you did when I replaced the timing belt on the PZJ70 after installing a rebuilt IP pump using the steps in RM172E. One full revolution was all it took for me and was good to go.
 
Looks so easy to do with the motor out, not that it is difficult to do with it installed.

I am no expert but I pretty much followed the same steps you did when I replaced the timing belt on the PZJ70 after installing a rebuilt IP pump using the steps in RM172E. One full revolution was all it took for me and was good to go.
Thanks! I may spin it again and double-check it.
 
One of the more difficult-to-locate pieces of the turbo-1HZ puzzle arrived yesterday.

Boost compensator.
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If you're shopping for the compensator, you will also need:

  • O-Ring for governor adjusting shaft, Toyota PN: 22193-54770
  • Gasket for governor cover, Toyota PN: 22774-54270
  • Screw plug, Toyota PN: 22129-55110
  • Washer, Toyota PN: 90201-12109
 
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I spun the engine over one more time to double-check timing. All timing marks were right on the money, so I decided to proceed with reassembly.

I then spent the majority of the day cleaning engine components and prepping gasket surfaces. I managed to get the timing cover and valve cover installed.
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I added reinforced silicone caps to the H20 lines (until a turbo gets installed).
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What is the part number for these clips on the valve cover breather hose? Hose is getting replaced BTW.
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After spending more time working on the truck, I have my suspicions about the displayed mileage. Supposedly it had 36,000 kms, which is approximately 22,000 miles. That’s nothing.

But why did the speedo cable break on the way home from LA? Seems odd for a 22k miles truck.

(I am not actually doing 200 km/h in this photo).
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Why does it have tap water in the coolant system? It’s a lot of work to drain the Toyota Red coolant and add tap water. Why would you pull the factory coolant with only 22k miles on the truck? That doesn’t make sense.

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Why was the radiator in such bad shape? And why were all the coolant hoses "crunchy"?
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Why is the transmission leaking gear oil? At 22,000 miles it should just be getting broken in.
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Here is a photo of the hood release cable. Why is it already frayed with only 22k miles?
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Overall the truck is in great shape. But some of these details just don't add up. I don’t know the full history (especially coming from the Middle East). Were used parts swapped into the truck after the repaint? Did it get a gauge cluster swap/rollback? Does it really have 22,000 miles? Who knows. I’m just going to take care of it the best I can now that I own it.

It's the Middle East... you could have gotten snookered. Alternatively, the government use trucks sit out in the heat ALL the time. It may not have many miles, but rubber and plastic and other items become brittle. Seals that don't get used much get old and often fail once brought back into regular use. Either way... rolling as you are is the best call.

Do you have compression numbers on the cylinders?
 
Fell behind on this... love how much you've done. Can't wait to see it rolling.

After this and @jomelo's FTE thread I've got a hunger for diesel... maybe my 3F will peter out sooner than I think. Hmmm...
 
It's the Middle East... you could have gotten snookered. Alternatively, the government use trucks sit out in the heat ALL the time. It may not have many miles, but rubber and plastic and other items become brittle. Seals that don't get used much get old and often fail once brought back into regular use. Either way... rolling as you are is the best call.

Do you have compression numbers on the cylinders?
Agreed, very hard to say due to the region. Overall, it is in good shape and I’m pleased with the condition. No compression numbers, but the engine oil lab report from Blackstone was outstanding. Maybe I’ll do a compression test after I get it back together.

I need a compression tester kit and the appropriate SST adapter port.
…maybe my 3F will peter out sooner than I think.
Fat chance. The 3F is too dumb to die. :rofl:
 
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Any 12mm adapter works on 1HZ and 1HDT for compression tests. Snapon, Mac, Harbor Freight and many others. It is just a standard 12mm down the glow plug hole.

FT/FTE you need the SST.

Cheers
 
Any 12mm adapter works on 1HZ and 1HDT for compression tests. Snapon, Mac, Harbor Freight and many others. It is just a standard 12mm down the glow plug hole.

FT/FTE you need the SST.

Cheers
Good intel. Thank you.

M12x1.25 glow plug adapter?
 
Do you still have the other copy? I have a KZJ71 but the body is the same as LJ7x, which the RM183E covers.
If you’re asking me if I still have a second copy, yes I do. Send me a PM.
 
At the advice of @AlbertoSD, I decided to add an EGT, H2O, and boost gauge to the truck. H2O temp is good to know for obvious reasons. And the boost gauge is worthless until I turbo, but it will be pre-wired and ready to swap over. Until then it will just display zero.

Normally you wouldn’t install an EGT gauge on a naturally aspirated diesel. But because I eventually want to turbo, it will be good to know what the EGTs were prior to turbo as a baseline comparison.

I modified the exhaust heat shield and mocked up the probe to make re-installation a cinch once the motor goes back in.

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