Sorry, I worded my last post strangely. There are things missing in the single volume that the 2 volume contains.
Build 1996 HZJ75 Land Cruiser Pickup
- Thread starter Will Van
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- #182
10-4. I’m still looking for a 2-volume anyway. Thanks!
I need to see a picture of a '94 2-volume, I'm starting to think they're an urban legend.
That surprising, recently I aquired a big load of toyota manuals, all came from a toyota workshop, no 2 volume one for the 70 series.
But there are several supplements, maybe in later reprints those were included in the main book, thats how it became 2 volumes?
Here is the pic of the last supplement (and a list of the previous and all other related) that I am aware of still being paper based:
- Thread starter
- #185
Great intel. Thank you!
Is this the urban legend you speak of? Two volume Repair Manual for Chassis & Body RM183E-1 and RM183E-2:
I have a 2005 edition (38th printing), first printing 08 March 1990. I don't know how many other editions or printings are out there. Hope this adds some clarification, or perhaps it only instills more confusion
Depending on which printing, it was either one book or two. Maybe a printing limitation or maybe for practicality. 
- Thread starter
- #188
1HZ assembly question - I have the oil pan, block oil pan surface, and rear main seal retainer cleaned and prepped for install. But I can’t clean and prep the rear main seal retainer block surface because it’s mounted on the engine stand.
Can I install the oil pan first, and then the rear main seal retainer?
Or does the rear main retainer and seal need or be installed before the oil pan?
Edit: I will, of course, install the rear main seal into the retainer while I have it out on the bench.
Edit Again: Spoke to @AlbertoSD - I need to install the rear main seal retainer before the oil pan. Probably going to put the engine back on the cherry picker and do the rear main seal and pilot bearing at the same time. Thanks Alberto!
Can I install the oil pan first, and then the rear main seal retainer?
Or does the rear main retainer and seal need or be installed before the oil pan?
Edit: I will, of course, install the rear main seal into the retainer while I have it out on the bench.
Edit Again: Spoke to @AlbertoSD - I need to install the rear main seal retainer before the oil pan. Probably going to put the engine back on the cherry picker and do the rear main seal and pilot bearing at the same time. Thanks Alberto!
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I'll quit side tracking Will's thread and just say that I've seen '95 and '96 2-volume manuals, and have not had "eyes on" a '94 2-volume. I think there is more detail out there pertaining to body and interior stuff that is not contained in my hard copy.
That is one clean oil pan! I wish I had some sage wisdom for you, but you're in waay deeper than I have been.
That is one clean oil pan! I wish I had some sage wisdom for you, but you're in waay deeper than I have been.
- Thread starter
- #191
Hell yeah!
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- #192
Rear main seal and oil pan installed.
- Thread starter
- #193
I made a little more progress yesterday. Hopefully this afternoon I can pull cam gear No. 1 and finish installing the water pump, cam seal, and new turbo water hardline that goes behind the seal retainer.
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- Thread starter
- #194
I got the No. 1 cam gear and cam seal retainer off. Then removed the water pump.
It’s honestly not as corroded as I would have expected. No real deep pitting anywhere. If they were running tap water through it, they didn’t run it for very long.
It’s honestly not as corroded as I would have expected. No real deep pitting anywhere. If they were running tap water through it, they didn’t run it for very long.
- Thread starter
- #195
I mocked up the new water pump and combination turbo H2O/vacuum hardline. This is the hardline that several people have mentioned you can use from the HDJ78/79 trucks if you’re going turbo. PN: 44777-60351
Builds - HDJ77 Build for Midwest Overlanding - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/hdj77-build-for-midwest-overlanding.963621/page-3#post-11106236
1HDT/1HZT Pic request - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1hdt-1hzt-pic-request.1257519/#post-13943231
Unfortunately it doesn’t quite fit. One of the hardlines interferes with the head casting.
The 1HD-FT head casting is slightly different.
I might just kiss the 1HZ head with a grinding burr and see if I can get the HDJ78 hardline to fit. Or just bend the hardline.
Builds - HDJ77 Build for Midwest Overlanding - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/hdj77-build-for-midwest-overlanding.963621/page-3#post-11106236
1HDT/1HZT Pic request - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1hdt-1hzt-pic-request.1257519/#post-13943231
Unfortunately it doesn’t quite fit. One of the hardlines interferes with the head casting.
The 1HD-FT head casting is slightly different.
I might just kiss the 1HZ head with a grinding burr and see if I can get the HDJ78 hardline to fit. Or just bend the hardline.
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I can't quite tell from the pictures, is the hardline that may get bent attached to the mount bracket immediately to the left ? If it is loose there, I would say a slight adjustment to the hose would be a piece of cake. If it's soldered or whatever at that bracket, you might not get any movement.
- Thread starter
- #197
Rebuilt H55F w/ 4:1 t-case is back from Valley Hybrids!
- Thread starter
- #198
In order to resolve the vacuum/H2O line issues on the water pump, I decided to just relocate the vacuum canister.
The routing from the pump, and then to the brake booster, is better this way anyway. Instead of wrapping all the way around the engine bay (red line), it just goes from vacuum pump to the canister on the driver’s side fender, to the brake booster (blue line).
It will work even better with the 80 series dual-diaphragm booster, because the port is on the opposite side.
I’ll need to grab some 9mm reinforced vacuum hose. And I’ll need to extend the wires for the low vacuum sensor. Either way, I think it looks pretty good there.
The turbo H2O and vacuum hardlines are different diameters (10mm turbo H2O vs 9mm vacuum). So the single turbo H2O line (for the crossover hardline on the water pump) will be here next week. Toyota PN: 16028-17010.
Hopefully I will finish the water pump and timing belt job next week. Then put the engine back in the chassis.
The routing from the pump, and then to the brake booster, is better this way anyway. Instead of wrapping all the way around the engine bay (red line), it just goes from vacuum pump to the canister on the driver’s side fender, to the brake booster (blue line).
It will work even better with the 80 series dual-diaphragm booster, because the port is on the opposite side.
I’ll need to grab some 9mm reinforced vacuum hose. And I’ll need to extend the wires for the low vacuum sensor. Either way, I think it looks pretty good there.
The turbo H2O and vacuum hardlines are different diameters (10mm turbo H2O vs 9mm vacuum). So the single turbo H2O line (for the crossover hardline on the water pump) will be here next week. Toyota PN: 16028-17010.
Hopefully I will finish the water pump and timing belt job next week. Then put the engine back in the chassis.
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- Thread starter
- #200
PM sent.