1995 kzj78 code 32 (1 Viewer)

[Lomoski]

Hello friends,

My truck has been sitting for about 18 months, but it was run for a half hour every month. I have been driving it as my daily for about a month now. I have been having some black smoke, well, it barfs black smoke on cold startup sometimes and my fuel economy has gone through the roof. 12L/100 to 17 L/100 city. I have newish injectors, have run a bottle of diesel purge closed loop through the fuel system, have a lubricity additive in, newish fuel filter, newish air filter, fuel control spill valve is slightly backed off, butterfly valve is removed and egr is deleted/blocked.

I have no idea what code 32 is referencing. Any and all help is appreciated!

 

[Tigris]

I don't have the codes reference handy (but I know it's here on the forum somewhere).

To me this sounds like either an injector issue, an MAP sensor/filter issue, or an ECU issue. I am leaning towards the injectors though.

My KZJ78 stays parked in the garage for months at a time with only sporadic starts whenever the wife's gives in to my nagging over the phone lol. But it will still start at the first turn of a crank and with minimal puff to no smoke at that.

You mentioned that your injectors are fairly new, were they new OE ones? Aftermarket? Or recently rebuilt? The reason is because on these injectors the opening pressures is calibrated with shims and the aftermarket injectors may not necessarily open at the correct pressure range. The other injector factor could be the needle/orifice may be out of size effecting the spray pattern, which would contribute to early and incorrect fuel dosing/atomizing, and the milage will subsequently tank.

I have little confidence in my MAP sensor/filter suggestion but I did hear stories that made me think of it. As for the ECU, those are notorious for having incorrectly formulated electrolytic capacitors sourced by Denso (among many others OE suppliers in the 1990s) that caused the premature failure of the caps leading to ECU anomalies. Now since the ECU is in charge of many things on the drivetrain including control over the injection pump, it might be a culprit. Worth pulling out that ECU for a quick peak under the lid.

The first thing to do I think is to figure out the fault code and go from there.

Keep us posted and good luck!

 

[Lomoski]

I don't have the codes reference handy (but I know it's here on the forum somewhere).

To me this sounds like either an injector issue, an MAP sensor/filter issue, or an ECU issue. I am leaning towards the injectors though.

My KZJ78 stays parked in the garage for months at a time with only sporadic starts whenever the wife's gives in to my nagging over the phone lol. But it will still start at the first turn of a crank and with minimal puff to no smoke at that.

You mentioned that your injectors are fairly new, were they new OE ones? Aftermarket? Or recently rebuilt? The reason is because on these injectors the opening pressures is calibrated with shims and the aftermarket injectors may not necessarily open at the correct pressure range. The other injector factor could be the needle/orifice may be out of size effecting the spray pattern, which would contribute to early and incorrect fuel dosing/atomizing, and the milage will subsequently tank.

I have little confidence in my MAP sensor/filter suggestion but I did hear stories that made me think of it. As for the ECU, those are notorious for having incorrectly formulated electrolytic capacitors sourced by Denso (among many others OE suppliers in the 1990s) that caused the premature failure of the caps leading to ECU anomalies. Now since the ECU is in charge of many things on the drivetrain including control over the injection pump, it might be a culprit. Worth pulling out that ECU for a quick peak under the lid.

The first thing to do I think is to figure out the fault code and go from there.

Keep us posted and good luck!

Thanks for the response. So a bit more information, the injectors were OEM new numbers matching. I'm getting a pop tester to see if they are within spec. I had my ecu rebuilt by gtsportscoupe maybe four years ago so I'm thinking that should be ok.

I checked the codes and I believe a 32 is corrective resistors, which I believe has something to do with my injection pump. So I'll start looking into those. Hopefully someone has a fix!

Thanks again for your response!

 

[Tigris]

@Lomoski

You are welcome. Now if @GTSSportCoupe was who rebuilt your ECU then it was done right. He was the one who inspired me to start rebuilding these ECUs and he certainly among those who know what they are doing.

Since your injectors were new OE matching units, then the chances of having a fault in the injectors just got slimmer. Of course the shims might be out of spec for your engine's current cylinder pressures. Pop testing them is a great idea for anyone, I would though recommend that you try to find a good quality oil filled pressure gauge to replace the one that comes with the generic pop tester (assuming it's what you are buying, as most people do, myself included).

The corrective resistor is certainly a suspect, since it is a common target for modifications or alterations that aims to circumvent the fuel cut off at max boost. A multimeter reading across the resistor along with a thorough cleaning of the connector are very good things to do. The FSM publishes values for the acceptable impedance of the resistor.

Good luck!

 

[Lomoski]

@Lomoski

You are welcome. Now if @GTSSportCoupe was who rebuilt your ECU then it was done right. He was the one who inspired me to start rebuilding these ECUs and he certainly among those who know what they are doing.

Since your injectors were new OE matching units, then the chances of having a fault in the injectors just got slimmer. Of course the shims might be out of spec for your engine's current cylinder pressures. Pop testing them is a great idea for anyone, I would though recommend that you try to find a good quality oil filled pressure gauge to replace the one that comes with the generic pop tester (assuming it's what you are buying, as most people do, myself included).

The corrective resistor is certainly a suspect, since it is a common target for modifications or alterations that aims to circumvent the fuel cut off at max boost. A multimeter reading across the resistor along with a thorough cleaning of the connector are very good things to do. The FSM publishes values for the acceptable impedance of the resistor.

Good luck!

Thanks so much! Do you know which FSM the corrective resistors is covered in? I've collected a few over the years on a hard drive now. I'll clean them this weekend and throw a multimeter on them.

I had Gtssportscoupe rebuild my ecu as almost one of the first upgrades I did to the wagon. He had said it was in terrible shape as well, I never would have thought to check that without this board.

I've cleared the codes, going to drive it for a few days and check the codes again.

I really appreciate your help.

 

[Tigris]

Thanks @Lomoski

I went and found this engine FSM that came in handy a few times since it is in English, but some of the pages seem missing or badly scanned.

Starting on page 114, you'll find some diagnostic procedures for the code 32. The good book did talk about the correction resistor(s) being likely at fault and how they needed to be checked with a multimeter, but I didn't find details on the expected readings, i.e. impedance, and found only whether it shows open circuit or not. Maybe the relevant information is in another section, or the wiring diagram manuals.

Interestingly, there is also relevant info on how to check for code 32 on the ECU terminals. Now I know your ECU was repaired correctly (because your truck ran fine afterwards. ECUs don't lie) but there is the possibility that a new fault has occurred in the ECU triggering code 32. The FSM does show a relatively simple diagnostic procedure to verify that on page 115 I believe. (I would recommend using the multimeter on the identified pins on the inside of the ECU, after verifying which lines correspond to the pins identified, the point being is that you will be able to keep the ECU plugged into it's three connectors (and through that, to the harness leading to the injection pump) while you get a careful reading with your multimeter. I hope that makes sense.

 

[Lomoski]

Thanks @Lomoski

I went and found this engine FSM that came in handy a few times since it is in English, but some of the pages seem missing or badly scanned.

Starting on page 114, you'll find some diagnostic procedures for the code 32. The good book did talk about the correction resistor(s) being likely at fault and how they needed to be checked with a multimeter, but I didn't find details on the expected readings, i.e. impedance, and found only whether it shows open circuit or not. Maybe the relevant information is in another section, or the wiring diagram manuals.

Interestingly, there is also relevant info on how to check for code 32 on the ECU terminals. Now I know your ECU was repaired correctly (because your truck ran fine afterwards. ECUs don't lie) but there is the possibility that a new fault has occurred in the ECU triggering code 32. The FSM does show a relatively simple diagnostic procedure to verify that on page 115 I believe. (I would recommend using the multimeter on the identified pins on the inside of the ECU, after verifying which lines correspond to the pins identified, the point being is that you will be able to keep the ECU plugged into it's three connectors (and through that, to the harness leading to the injection pump) while you get a careful reading with your multimeter. I hope that makes sense.

Thanks for that! Spent a few hours reading through that manual last night. Tons of great information in there. I also went down a seperate rabbit hole of adjusting the resistors. I believe that the grey resistor can be swapped with a 1k5 0.5w film resistor. Going to track those down and give that a try! Thanks again!

 

[Lomoski]

I found this in another thread regarding the resistors and what their factory values are. This is not my information, I just found it very interesting and could be helpful to other people who are having the code 32 come up. I believe there is also Toyota part numbers out there for each individual resistor which is probably real expensive, I'll just make my own. But I'll see if I can find those part numbers as well for anyone else.

 

[Tigris]

Awesome work!

Yeah I can see how this would be real handy for folks interested in defeating the fuel cutoff. I knew that people been rigging some over the shelf discreet resistors (like your typical carbon composition color band, through-hole resistors) in series with the factory resistors to increase the value and fool the ECU into not triggering limp mode. But these you found are more appropriate as they are automotive-grade purpose built for an injection pump. The selection seems comprehensive too

I think replacing the "resistor" element out of the OE one with a similar value element from one of these would work just as good as a new OEM part and be a heck a lot cheaper.

Let us know what you end up doing.

Cheers!

 

[Lomoski]

Awesome work!

Yeah I can see how this would be real handy for folks interested in defeating the fuel cutoff. I knew that people been rigging some over the shelf discreet resistors (like your typical carbon composition color band, through-hole resistors) in series with the factory resistors to increase the value and fool the ECU into not triggering limp mode. But these you found are more appropriate as they are automotive-grade purpose built for an injection pump. The selection seems comprehensive too

I think replacing the "resistor" element out of the OE one with a similar value element from one of these would work just as good as a new OEM part and be a heck a lot cheaper.

Let us know what you end up doing.

Cheers!

I do have one question, is it worth going "up" one size etc in resistors? Or just stick to the factory matching one that my pump was initially "tuned" for all those years and kms ago.

Really appreciate you taking the time to respond and help me figure this out.

 

[Tigris]

I do have one question, is it worth going "up" one size etc in resistors? Or just stick to the factory matching one that my pump was initially "tuned" for all those years and kms ago.

Really appreciate you taking the time to respond and help me figure this out.

Well, I am not the one to answer that with confidence, but I do see your logic here.

Speculation: People been changing the value of the resistor to accommodate for the extra air mass they gain by intercooling, streamlining intake, or upgrading the compressor, as that would yield them more fuel post max boost. So it makes sense to raise the resistance if you are running substantially higher mass of air through the engine. That being said, diesels love to run lean and people tend to "tune" them incorrectly using gasoline engine logic. A diesel is most efficient when it gets the air it needs for the fuel it has.

I think no matter what you do, go conservative. Maybe someone else with more knowledge can chime in? curious to hear if someone had some positive outcome from changing the value to accommodate for the current state of their engine.

 

[Lomoski]

So just an update.

I pulled my resistors, of course the lettering is gone. But, I bench tested them and they were within 1ohm of a factory value. 620 ohm for the grey which corresponds to #12 at 619 ohm. Tested with a calibrated Fluke meter so I'm fairly confident in them. I also cleared the codes and there are no more codes after a couple big highway runs. However, Still barfs smoke on startup for a couple minutes then goes to white smoke as expected for winter. I cleaned the MAP sensor and filter for good measure. I have a pop tester and will test injectors over the christmas holidays at my folks on the island. Will also replace fuel and air filter at the same time. I have also ordered a new coolant temp sensor for the ecu as it only happens when it's below freezing, so thinking there may be a correlation there. Glow system is working great with new glow plugs. I'm hoping a mouse didn't get a wire while my wagon was parked as well. Highway is 12-13l/100 and city is closer to 18. Which is baaaad for me. Thanks everyone! I'll keep updating as I go deeper. I am going to do the resistor mod, but once I sort out my smoking on startup issue. Neighbors might think I'm a coal roller soon and I'm not sure that is the look I want in a National Park!

 

[Lomoski]

So another update on the resistors. I ended up going to 1k5 and so far it seems fine. Lower egts and more turbo down low. When I was looking through the Denso IP manual they showed a chart with all the different resistors and corresponding CA. By going from a 619ohm to a 1k5 ohm I've advanced the timing by two degrees. So not as much as I thought it would. Nice to have a correlation. I've attached the chart. Will update again when I get the smoking issue on below freezing starts figured out.

 

[Tigris]

@Lomoski

Awesome work! I love it when you get empirical results with experimentation. Lower EGTs is certainly an interesting and a welcomed outcome. Question: from your observations so far, do you think the advancement in IP timing is corresponding linearly with the increases in resistance? Or do you think the two don't stay correlated for too long across the range? I'm asking out of curiosity

Good job

 

[Lomoski]

@Lomoski

Awesome work! I love it when you get empirical results with experimentation. Lower EGTs is certainly an interesting and a welcomed outcome. Question: from your observations so far, do you think the advancement in IP timing is corresponding linearly with the increases in resistance? Or do you think the two don't stay correlated for too long across the range? I'm asking out of curiosity

Good job

Good question! I'll try to plot these at some point and see if it's linear and would continue through to higher values. I know some people have gone as high as 2k4 but I'm pretty happy at 1k5 so far. I have 1k8, 2k, 2k2 I can try at some point if I choose as well. But for now I'm quite happy with the improvement. EGT are definitely lower for the same drive hill and I also dropped about 3 to 4L/100 so far for combined. Will need a few more tanks to see if that's a real correlation. I'm rebuilding my injectors this week (got a pop tester), installing the new gauge and ecu water temp sensors as well. I'm going to Dremel out the old resistor and replace it with a 1k5 so it looks stock again with the resistors on the side of the IP. Next will be a water to air intercooler setup and free flowing exhaust before I do too many power adders.

Happy holidays!

 

[Lomoski]

Alright, this should be the final update regarding my black smoke on cold startup and code 32.

I pulled my intake so I could pull and rebuild my injectors and check my valve lash. When I pulled the Intake there was significant soot on the intake of cylinder 2.... Uh oh... So I check the valve and it's tight. Very tight. Not having pots I did it the old fashioned way with a piece of glass and lots of sandpaper and soapy water and polishing off 0.15mm. Valves are all within spec now. They were all tight but that intake 2 was bad. (Head was replaced back in 2019 with a non Toyota replacement).

So now on to the injectors... Pop tested the injectors I bought when I replaced the head. I was under the impression these were new not rebuilt and I suspect they were poorly rebuilt. 1 through 4 respectively. 1900psi, 1000psi, 1500 and 1500. Oh good. Only one is at spec (2000psi) and they are all spraying poorly. So I decide to check my "old injectors" that I kept for spares and they are at 2000 psi but the pintles and cups are worn/leaky. In the end I decided to use the cups and pintles from my "new" injectors in my old holders and springs. Got them all at 2000 psi, good spray pattern with no leaks and good spring "shudder". New washers and crush gasket. Also replaced my ecu coolant sensor and gauge sensor.

Initial impressions are that i have a new truck. It sounds like a proper diesel now, is smoother than its ever been through my ownership and fires up with no black smoke. I always had some diesel popping and poor-ish idle and a slight miss around 3000rpm. I'm glad I did the work as I don't think that valve would have been long for the world. My impressions is it was fuelling cylinder 2 way to early and late causing soot to blow by before the intake valve was closed. And with the other 2 injectors being low pressure as well it was over fuelling probably all the time. So I'm interested to see what my mileage is now with all of this work. I'll update that once I drive home from the island tomorrow. Thanks for following along and if anyone has questions let me know!

 

[Tigris]

Interesting finding on the injectors. That's why I will always do all the work needed on my truck and never outsource anything to anyone who is not a reputable Land Cruiser community recommend business.

Yes please share your findings on the performance/milage when the weather is better again. Cheers!

 

[Lomoski]

Alright! I think this chapter of my kzj78 is closed. It was below freezing this morning when I started the truck. No rolling coal from this guy any more. Fired right up and idled substantially better than it would have. Got 12L/100 driving over four mountain passes home from the Island yesterday.

One final thing I did was clean my fuel tank check valve, it was stuck. I also cleaned and lubed my filler cap as the suction assembly wasn't working anymore. Hopefully that will get rid of the vacuum in the tank after running for any length of time.

Regards and best of luck into 24