Are you mounting the two front bolts (@the axle) first and then the frame connection?
Yes I was. I went out this morning and got the wheels off, disconnected the sway bar and the brake line. This completly unloaded the front end. This is what the instructions say but they also say removal of the wheels is not necessary. This may be true but I'm not sure how unless you're on a lift.
As it is completely unloading the front end allowed me to install the caster correction plates using straps and some interesting gymnastics. It took me an additional 2 1/2 hours this morning. I was working alone today. All told I imagine you could do it in 3 hours or less if you have some extra bodies. Big bodies and strong too would help.
I love the way she sits now. I definitely need bigger wheels! I'm going to get some extended brake lines. They aren't tight but just enough to make me nervous.
Lessons learned:
Get two spring compressors. The OME springs I installed were incredibly stiff compared to the ones I removed.
The lift setup I installed required the Slee sway bar drop blocks. They will need to be ordered seperately. The caster correction plates specifically tell you that you will need them but as mentioned they are sold seperately.
SLEEs instructions on their website for the lift is spot on. The caster correction plates instructions leaves something to be desired. As soon as I'm up to it I'll take some pictures and talk about how I installed the plates.
Without a lift I'm not sure how you could do this job alone. The shocks took two people to remove themselves. Bring a friend at least.
You need (2) 27mm open ended wrenches for the the slee caster correction plates. Sockets will not work.
You will also need but not limited to 22 and 24mm wrenches. I'm listing these because not everyone has those that size. Also get some serious tie down straps to move the axle around as necessary.
I used an air powered cutting disc and an electric disc grinder to make the cuts in the front axle for the correction kit. I also had to dremel out the DS front top hole very slightly to get the new bolt through. I've read about this issue elsewhere. It was extremly minimal buy necessary. You might be able to hammer it through.
Get a clear face shield and wear a hoodie so you don't need to stress about getting sprayed with sparks and your hair catching fire. Seriously, it happens. No one deserves that.
Tomorrow I'm taking it for an alignment and to get the plates welded up. Without further ado here is the photo: