Build 1995 80 Series Land Cruiser Build Thread - "Red"

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

The rims I have run most are simple, inexpensive, not the cheapest, steel wheels and they always delivered bang for the buck. They can also be beaten back into shape if necessary. If you don't slam boulders then the Expensive, pretty rims make more sense. I've run my stock 80 rims for one year on Boulder strewn "trails" here in the sierra's and they have taken the beating well. I like black wheels but with chunks of aluminum missing already I see no sense in painting my stockers. My next rims will be basic steelies for cheap functionality.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for your added input locks. I have always run fairly simple rims on my vehicles but I am a huge fan of black on black. I discussed with a mechanical engineer at work today the principles behind forging versus casting etc. I need to do more research and define the elusive term "value" when it comes to wheels. This even extends into the tire selection to go on said rim. Again, I'd love for people to chime in with their opinions and scientific knowledge about rim construction and choice. I'm looking at all you crazy engineers and mad scientists out there.
 
Last edited:
image.webp
Radiator is out. What a pita!!!!
 
Replaced the oil pump cover o-ring tonight. I used a lubricant designed for rubber o-rings called molykote 55 from Dow Corning. It is a thick white paste. It helped it stay in place while installing the cover and is designed to make it expand slightly for a better seal. I ended up using the OEM screws because I didn't like the thread engagement of the torx screws I removed that the PO was using. I put a dab of blue loctite on the screws. Everyone seemed to have differing opinions on which fasteners to use etc. but I'm very ready to have this truck back together and running again. If I have to go back in to this area again I will replace with torx fasteners. I'm going to order a set of good torx/allen replacements in case that happens.
After that I was able to reinstall the harmonic pulley. I installed the new water pump and attached its pulley. Everything has been torqued to FSM specs.
Left to do: Torque the crank shaft bolt, install the belts, install the new radiator, install the new fan clutch, refill fluids, and fire it up.
 
Last edited:
image.webp
New radiator is back in. Wrapped it all up last night. Put new belts on, filled everything back up, and needed a new battery! Doh! So I went and tested my battery this morning. Turns out it was bad so I bought a fairly cheap battery to keep me going until I get a dual battery setup in a couple years. I started the truck up and man does the new fan blow some air!!! I let the truck run and come up to temperature and everything looks great. Nothing is leaking. I'll monitor my oil, atf, and coolant levels closely for the next couple of weeks to ensure everything is ok.
I saved my company a bit of money with an idea I had so I'm getting an appreciation bonus soon. That's going to an OME lift so that's where I'm heading next.

image.webp
 
I've driven the truck for a couple days now and there are no leaks!!!! I had to add a little oil to take into account the filter but other than that everything has been running great.
Working with Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters I ordered parts for an OME suspension lift, front axle rebuild/refresh, and a complete brake job. I've also been researching child car seats so I can have one permanently placed in the 80. It's been a busy week!
I'm hoping to have the lift done by the end of February and I'll get to the rest at some point. Work is going to get busy for the next couple of months but we'll see!
After reading threads and talking to people I've discovered opinions about lifts and wheels are as varied as it comes. You really have to talk to people with real experience and then decide for yourself...
 
Great build

My car seat recommendation: Chico Nextfit. I run 2 in my 80 and 2 more in my wife's Subaru Legacy. Greats seats for my 3 & 1.5 year olds. They'll grow with them until they're 6-8yrs old depending on how big/tall my kiddos get at that age. My "slim" niece fit in one until she was 9.

image.webp
 
For more info on car seats, the Car Seats for the Littles Facebook page is THE place to go as far as I'm concerned. It's the best place for knowledgable professional advice about car seats safety and what seat fits in what vehicles.
 
Great build

My car seat recommendation: Chico Nextfit. I run 2 in my 80 and 2 more in my wife's Subaru Legacy. Greats seats for my 3 & 1.5 year olds. They'll grow with them until they're 6-8yrs old depending on how big/tall my kiddos get at that age. My "slim" niece fit in one until she was 9.

Thanks Rambler. You seem to have a snow problem in that photo though! My Dad is in Littleton so I'm keenly aware of your issues. Go Broncos!
 
You know you're excited when you keep checking the tracking number on your shipment just to see where it is and to keep up with it's progress. I'm not even sure where Earth City MO is. It's like Christmas in February. If it was only this easy to add two and a half inches to everything...
@cruiseroutfit
 
LOL. If you feel the need to repeat all the gasket and seal work you just did, let me know, I'll bring you my truck...You can also install a lift on it too.

Good Job on knocking that stuff out. I'm hoping to have a dry truck soon too.
 
@stevezero it's amazing how much better I feel driving the truck around town. I was embarrassed before because I was dropping several ounces of oil every time I stopped at a light or parked. You could track me when the ground was wet. Changing the front main seal was actually really easy. I did a lot of while you're in there maintenance and that dragged it out a bit. Bring your truck on by. We'll knock it out! You bring the beer.
 
image.webp
UPS showed up today. Lift install is scheduled for Saturday. Axles and brakes to come in a couple of weeks depending on schedule. Here is what you see:
Front coils 2850J
Rear coils 2863
Nitrocharger Sport Shocks
Caster correction plate kit (not in photo)
OME SD24 Steering Damper
OEM Front Discs
Front and Rear Brake Pads
Knuckle Rebuild Kit w/ Timken Bearings
Preload Scale
54mm Socket

My build plans were taken into account when selecting the coils. We only took into account my plans over the next 18 months to minimize the need to replace components and balance that with ride quality in the interim. It is a balance to be sure. We only looked at the next 18 months because the reality is a lot of things change in our lives. I have no intention of selling the 80. But you still need to take into account that that event may occur. Thanks to Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters for lending me his advice and experience. I can't say enough about the customer service.
It's going to be a busy weekend.
 
With the help of some neighbors and a member of the local land cruiser club I was able to get the lift installed in 5 1/2 hours today. Then I spent the next 3 hours fighting with the Slee caster correction plates. I didn't get the PS arm reinstalled. I was only able to get the front bolt back through. I believe my front axle rotated CCW as you look at it from the PS. What a PITA. In the morning I'm going to remove the front wheels and try to completely unload the front axle. I'm pretty sure this is what the instructions intended but they are somewhat vague. I searched and read a couple threads that seem to have had the same issue.
As installed I got about 4" to the fender lip of lift in the front a 3 1/2" in the rear. We will see how she settles. The truck looks amazing but I definitely need bigger wheels. The stock tires look tiny! As bumpers etc get added that lift will drop of course. But so far so good!
If anyone happens to have any advice for the correction plates please let me know. I followed the directions as written but may have not followed them correctly as it turns out.
Also, with the grinding my hair did not catch fire. Small successes.
 
Are you mounting the two front bolts (@the axle) first and then the frame connection?
 
Are you mounting the two front bolts (@the axle) first and then the frame connection?

Yes I was. I went out this morning and got the wheels off, disconnected the sway bar and the brake line. This completly unloaded the front end. This is what the instructions say but they also say removal of the wheels is not necessary. This may be true but I'm not sure how unless you're on a lift.
As it is completely unloading the front end allowed me to install the caster correction plates using straps and some interesting gymnastics. It took me an additional 2 1/2 hours this morning. I was working alone today. All told I imagine you could do it in 3 hours or less if you have some extra bodies. Big bodies and strong too would help.
I love the way she sits now. I definitely need bigger wheels! I'm going to get some extended brake lines. They aren't tight but just enough to make me nervous.
Lessons learned:
Get two spring compressors. The OME springs I installed were incredibly stiff compared to the ones I removed.
The lift setup I installed required the Slee sway bar drop blocks. They will need to be ordered seperately. The caster correction plates specifically tell you that you will need them but as mentioned they are sold seperately.
SLEEs instructions on their website for the lift is spot on. The caster correction plates instructions leaves something to be desired. As soon as I'm up to it I'll take some pictures and talk about how I installed the plates.
Without a lift I'm not sure how you could do this job alone. The shocks took two people to remove themselves. Bring a friend at least.
You need (2) 27mm open ended wrenches for the the slee caster correction plates. Sockets will not work.
You will also need but not limited to 22 and 24mm wrenches. I'm listing these because not everyone has those that size. Also get some serious tie down straps to move the axle around as necessary.
I used an air powered cutting disc and an electric disc grinder to make the cuts in the front axle for the correction kit. I also had to dremel out the DS front top hole very slightly to get the new bolt through. I've read about this issue elsewhere. It was extremly minimal buy necessary. You might be able to hammer it through.
Get a clear face shield and wear a hoodie so you don't need to stress about getting sprayed with sparks and your hair catching fire. Seriously, it happens. No one deserves that.
Tomorrow I'm taking it for an alignment and to get the plates welded up. Without further ado here is the photo:
image.webp
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom