Build 1995 80 Series Land Cruiser Build Thread - "Red"

[Phares]

I got a quote today from a "off road" shop today for the front main seal and the oil pump o-ring. 820$ just for labor. So I've got some time off in February so I guess I'll be doing it myself. While I'm in there:

Replace rubber coolant hoses and replace all clamps (Gates 22049, 22050, 22051)
Radiator (16400-66081)
Replace front main seal (90311-52022)
Replace oil pump o-ring (15188-66020)
Replace all belts (99332-10910-83 & 90916-02353-83)
Replace Water Pump (Amazon.com: Aisin WPT-023 Engine Water Pump: Automotive)
Thermostat & Gasket (90916-03117 & 16346-66020)
Oil Pump Cover Screws (15183-66020)(x7)
Fan Clutch (Amazon.com: Aisin FCT-004 Engine Cooling Fan Clutch: Automotive)
Fan Nuts (x4)
Water Pump Pulley Nuts (x4)

 

[GW Nugget]

Go all oem, it's not much more...
Do the water pump also.

 

[Phares]

Ordered everything but the water pump and the radiator today from Toyota. I'll update the parts numbers when I get them. Local dealer wanted 400$ for the radiator and 170$ for the water pump. I'm going to contact Beno or Dan for a quote. The local dealer said they would give me a discount but I figured I'd get a number and bring it to them...A big shout out to our supporting vendors!

 

[GW Nugget]

I got this water pump $68.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007FGUI5O/?tag=ihco-20

 

[Phares]

You just posted go OEM I see it's Aisin, is that the OEM pump?

 

[GW Nugget]

Well, I'm no expert, but it's new & from same manufacturer.
Maybe someone will chime in.

 

[Phares]

I got started with everything tonight since I have to stay up and rotate onto nights. I got the fan and shroud removed, the radiator hoses removed and the radiator drained. I removed the water pump pulley, the harmonic balancer, and all belts. I also drained the oil.
The most glaring issue I've discovered is that my front main seal is installed backwards. So obviously some where along the line it has been changed out. That might explain why it was leaking so badly. I will try to get a picture tomorrow as I have yet to get it out. I wanted to make sure it wasn't me who had everything backwards. Also my fan clutch is made in China and says torq something. That can't be stock right? Also, my oil pump cover has star patterned screws as opposed to JIS type Phillips head screws. I think the PO told me he changed the o-ring but I couldn't be certain. I guess I am now. Anyway though, we are well on our way and so far I have nothing to add to the group knowledge that hasn't already been covered...

 

[Phares]

Here are pictures of the front main seal. I'm having real trouble removing it. Also attached is a picture of the fan clutch. I've ordered the one from Amazon that is recommended. I've also ordered the previously discussed water pump. If it says Aisin, it's OEM. IMO

 

[Phares]

Using an offset screwdriver wrapped in electrical tape I was able to get the old main seal removed. It was in fact installed backwards. I can totally see myself making that mistake so that's all I'm going to say about that...

 

[Phares]

I got the new fan clutch in the mail today. Based on what I've read in the blue hub fan clutch thread I need to split it open, drain it, adjust the engagement point and then refill it with about 7500 cst silicone oil. That will keep me busy for a couple days. As soon as my water pump shows up I can get that swapped out along with the thermostat and the radiator hoses. Replace the front main seal, the oil pump cover o-ring, then pull the radiator with plans to replace that. Refill oil and coolant and fire her off. Progress is being made.

 

[Phares]

New fan clutch versus old fan clutch. In the first picture the new fan clutch is on the left. The camera flipped them in the second picture so the new clutch is on the right. I was amazed at the difference in the thickness of the fan clutches. The new clutch split in preparation for mods...

 

[Phares]

Inside the new clutch...these things are more complicated than I ever imagined as far as how they actually work. The mod itself has been very easy. One banana and three coors lights later....

 

[Phares]

Hanging the new clutch up to drain and the new oil to go in tomorrow night.

 

[Phares]

New water pump versus old water pump. Inside the cavity where the water flows. Words to follow...right now the wife says it's her time. I'll be working on it more tomorrow night. Enjoy the photos for now. (It's now tomorrow night) Unless someone went through extreme lengths to counterfeit the part the water pump off of amazon appears to be an exact replacement to the stock Toyota water pump. There are grind marks on the new water pump where the words Toyota are on the stock pump. If this one fails I will replace it with the actual one from Toyota but I do not doubt its authenticity as of now.

 

[Phares]

Thermostats. You have the OEM thermostat on the right in both photos and the removed unit on the left. It is stamped Germany. I believe it is what one would get from autozone etc. like the fan clutch you immediately notice the difference in size of the components. The OEM unit will flow much more fluid through the central valve than the aftermarket part. I replaced this tonight so the thermostat replacement is fully complete. Along with the other maintenance I am performing I cannot wait to see the improvements to the cooling system when I start Red back up.

 

[Phares]

Adjusting my fan clutch per the "blue fan clutch mod" thread. The adjustment to 95 degrees was minimal at best but I believe the change in viscosity will reap the greatest benefits. If you have over heating problems or are overhauling your cooling system like me I highly recommend this modification be made. To avoid confusion that apparently existed in the clutch mod thread I fully understand that mixing a bottle of 10K and 5K viscosity fluid does not create 15K fluid. There is a link to a formula calculator in the mentioned thread but I just added a 1:1 mixture of both to ball park it at 7500 CST fluid...

 

[Phares]

Tonight I was able to get the thermostat replaced, the fan clutch adjusted, and the new front main seal installed. The YouTube video by Texasknowhow was ridiculously accurate in the recommendation of using a 2" pvc coupling to press the seal in. It was almost as if the engineers designed the main seal around the coupling. Spot on. As soon as I get a torx 25 bit (I think) I'll be able to swap out the oil pump o-ring, replace the water pump, replace the radiator, reinstall the belts, hoses, fluids, and fire her up...
As always your thoughts and recommendations are appreciated....

 

[Phares]

I picked up the radiator this afternoon as well as the last couple of nuts and bolts I would need. Not to get ahead but next on the build is going to be the OME lift and wheels. I was reading @cruiseroutfit 200 Series thread and he mentioned on the desert race trucks they run TRD Rock Warriors. While those don't fit the lug pattern on the 80 Series the Parts guy at the dealership told me there is a 17" rim that is the same thing in the 80 lug pattern. However, the price on those rims and a subsequently necessary part is about $2100 for 5 of them. They do look sweet. My intention is to run 35" tires. I had 33s on my Tacoma and I've always wanted something on 35" wheels so here we go. I've got required reading in @GW Nugget's thread. But I digress. My point is that that price point is pretty high. I can't tell you what makes an expensive rim versus a non-expensive rim. Therefore I have no way to judge "Value". I tried searching "rim" and you can imagine how many threads that pulls up. If anyone is aware of a thread that talks about rim construction etc. or can take me to school on the topic I'd love to discuss it here. More to follow this evening as I continue on the "oil leak hunt turned coolant system refresh" expedition.

 

[jfz80]

I believe the only thing to tout about those wheels is forged construction. Making a stronger aluminum rim.

But let's face it are you tempted to buy em because your hardcore wheeling poses a threat to already strong wheel, or so ya just like the way they look?

And things are always gonna be spendy at the dealership. Those wheels come up on Craig's from time to time at 5-800 a set.

I think they are referred to as the rock warrior wheels. Avail in 5 or six lug with slightly different design in the wheel. The six lugs came on 4runners and FJCs

 

[Phares]

You hit on a great point that is a common pitfall in our addiction. Do we want something because of how it looks or because we actually need it or because all the cool kids are doing it? There is certainly no need for me to have hardcore rims. I do like the way they look. Our decisions are constantly need versus want. After these current upkeep items are done this will be my daily driver so should I get what I want? Just more questions.