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How would caster shims factor into this?Hello,
Not really.
Disassemble the center pin and U-bolts. Drill the holes in the axle perch. Move the axle forward. Reassemble.
This setup enables you to run 33 in./35 in. tires.
Juan
How would caster shims factor into this?
Aren't you going to need to get a longer driveshaft if you move the axle? I keep seeing people say this axle move is fairly simple but it would change the whole geometry of the chassis unless I'm mistaken... Everything that's connected to the axle would need to be checked. I guess if you flip the springs around in the front they should line up with the axle move. Seems like a rabbit hole for what gains? Personally I'm happy with 255/85r16 and this seems like it would present way more potential issues than its worth for someone like me.I needed 4 degree shims to correct the caster. I’m assuming I’ll probably still need them after moving the axle forward. If so, I don’t think there would be and room in them to drill the holes in the shims further back.
Maybe I’m overthinking this…
I’m starting to lean towards this reasoning unless I can get some further clarification. My Cruiser finally drives phenomenally and I don’t want to ruin that.Aren't you going to need to get a longer driveshaft if you move the axle? I keep seeing people say this axle move is fairly simple but it would change the whole geometry of the chassis unless I'm mistaken... Everything that's connected to the axle would need to be checked. I guess if you flip the springs around in the front they should line up with the axle move. Seems like a rabbit hole for what gains? Personally I'm happy with 255/85r16 and this seems like it would present way more potential issues than its worth for someone like me.
If the driveshaft is angled enough away from being 180 degrees flat, then one inch of axle movement will just flatten the angle from whatever it is. I guess you wouldn't need a new, longer driveshaft.I’m starting to lean towards this reasoning unless I can get some further clarification. My Cruiser finally drives phenomenally and I don’t want to ruin that.
I’m starting to lean towards this reasoning unless I can get some further clarification. My Cruiser finally drives phenomenally and I don’t want to ruin that.
Roverdude,
Do you have a link to the receiver you put on your truck to attach your bike rack to? Is it strong enough to carry a Thule 2 bike rack with two non e bikes?
Sean
I have even more expensive goodies on order now… I have a problem.
I ended up ordering Dobinsons MRR for the front I figured with the extra weight of the front bumper, winch and now the rock sliders probably needed some extra and/or adjustable shocks.Which suspension did you install on the 73?
Dobinson 50mm?
It only took a few months for your prediction to materialize! I’ll spare everyone my tears and a whole new thread of self loathing.You‘ll be back and the title of the thread will be “I should have converted to manual hubs when I had the chance….”
And it will be some first world problem story of woe….
But, to each their own electric locking hubs story of education.
I ended up ordering Dobinsons MRR for the front I figured with the extra weight of the front bumper, winch and now the rock sliders probably needed some extra and/or adjustable shocks.
I’ll have to wait a bit to order a set for the rear.
Right now it has Rancho all around and an unknown set of parabolic leaf springs.
I really have no clue, but it looks pretty tall… taller than most lifted 73’s. I would say it’s probably a 3 inch lift or so instead of the usual 2 inch. Those shims and an adjustment of the toe after install was night and day.What would you guess the lift to be?
Reason I ask is because I recall you mentioning a 4* correction wedge in front to improve steering and I'm trying to get a sense of what is required for correction for 2" vs 4"