Builds 1994 HZJ73 Wine Red Flex Dream (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Fishbulb
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Glad it worked out! Looks great.
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- #143
How would caster shims factor into this?
Hello,
That is a good question.
In a nutshell, if the ground clearance, camber, caster and steering axis inclination are within specification after the displacement forward, there is no need for shims. Otherwise, correction is necessary.
The FSM supplies procedure and guidelines to follow regarding caster. Shims may or may not be necessary. In fact, shims are the last resource in the manual.
The manual is your friend.
Juan
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- Thread starter
- #145
I needed 4 degree shims to correct the caster. I’m assuming I’ll probably still need them after moving the axle forward. If so, I don’t think there would be and room in them to drill the holes in the shims further back.
Maybe I’m overthinking this…
Maybe I’m overthinking this…
Aren't you going to need to get a longer driveshaft if you move the axle? I keep seeing people say this axle move is fairly simple but it would change the whole geometry of the chassis unless I'm mistaken... Everything that's connected to the axle would need to be checked. I guess if you flip the springs around in the front they should line up with the axle move. Seems like a rabbit hole for what gains? Personally I'm happy with 255/85r16 and this seems like it would present way more potential issues than its worth for someone like me.
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- #147
I’m starting to lean towards this reasoning unless I can get some further clarification. My Cruiser finally drives phenomenally and I don’t want to ruin that.
If the driveshaft is angled enough away from being 180 degrees flat, then one inch of axle movement will just flatten the angle from whatever it is. I guess you wouldn't need a new, longer driveshaft.
With that said, you would want to for sure refer to the chassis manual that would have the proper driveline specs to make sure the axle movement doesn't push the cruiser out of spec. The wedge would "correct" the angle of the point where the driveshaft meets the differential, so if you flatten that angle by moving the axle, you may find that the angle is over-corrected with shims.
FJBen
SILVER Star
I don’t think you are going to feel anything with that small change of 1” forward. These are race tractors, not race cars. Leaf spring and crossover steering with bigger tires is vague.
Now anytime you change geometry of steering (drag link to tie rod) there will be some change in steering. You would be moving your tie rod closer to the drag link/pitman arm. As long as they don’t hit, you won’t feel much difference as your camber/caster hasn’t changed nor has the draglink angle relative to level from what it was. I’m pretty positive you will have more negative consequences from lifting geometry wise compare to just moving axle 1” forward.
TLDR: you will be fine. Worst case you’ve just put another hole in the perch and you can move the axle back to stock.
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- #150
I haven't posted in awhile.... I'm still alive and still lurking daily. I just have nothing to update on as I am currently out of state in California for work for a couple months. I'm making a few extra quid at the moment and I am getting the parts itch. Been looking at some Dobinson's reservoir shocks lately. We shall see..... I may have another work trip to the opposite coast right after this assignment.
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- #152
You just need to drill some holes in the middle if you want to use all 6 mounting points. It’s plenty strong enough for a bike rack.
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- #153
I installed a Dobinsons steering damper today. I really enjoy the feel of this over the OME one I had.
I took the wheels off last night to make sure my wheel spacer bolts were still tight. While doing so I decided I would check to make sure my front hubs are still working before an off road trip that I had planned… nope, front left ehub does not want to work. I said effff it and efffff them and ordered Radd Cruisers manual hub conversion kit and some gold Aisin manual hubs (from Cruiser Outfitters).
I took the wheels off last night to make sure my wheel spacer bolts were still tight. While doing so I decided I would check to make sure my front hubs are still working before an off road trip that I had planned… nope, front left ehub does not want to work. I said effff it and efffff them and ordered Radd Cruisers manual hub conversion kit and some gold Aisin manual hubs (from Cruiser Outfitters).
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- #154
I picked up some VERY beefy bolt-on rock sliders today that I snagged from a member. I’ll need to remove the resonator and add a flex pipe before I can do a true test fit though. Just a couple projects on the back burner for now 
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- #157
I ended up ordering Dobinsons MRR for the front
I figured with the extra weight of the front bumper, winch and now the rock sliders probably needed some extra and/or adjustable shocks. I’ll have to wait a bit to order a set for the rear.
Right now it has Rancho all around and an unknown set of parabolic leaf springs.
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- #158
It only took a few months for your prediction to materialize! I’ll spare everyone my tears and a whole new thread of self loathing.You‘ll be back and the title of the thread will be “I should have converted to manual hubs when I had the chance….”
And it will be some first world problem story of woe….
But, to each their own electric locking hubs story of education.
I ended up ordering Dobinsons MRR for the front
I’ll have to wait a bit to order a set for the rear.
Right now it has Rancho all around and an unknown set of parabolic leaf springs.
What would you guess the lift to be?
Reason I ask is because I recall you mentioning a 4* correction wedge in front to improve steering and I'm trying to get a sense of what is required for correction for 2" vs 4"
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- #160
I really have no clue, but it looks pretty tall… taller than most lifted 73’s. I would say it’s probably a 3 inch lift or so instead of the usual 2 inch. Those shims and an adjustment of the toe after install was night and day.
