Builds 1994 HZJ73 Wine Red Flex Dream (7 Viewers)
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- #62
After a quick tire rotation… BOTH THE DEATH WOBBLE AND THE DEATH SHAKE ARE GONE!! I hope this isn’t too good to be true!! All the stars have aligned!
Dumb question…. but by changing the caster does that change the toe???
RoverDude,
Do you have the part number for your seat covers? On specter offroad website they dont list the HZJ73 as one of the trucks the covers fits but I would think this one below would fit. Is this the one you bought?
Do you have the part number for your seat covers? On specter offroad website they dont list the HZJ73 as one of the trucks the covers fits but I would think this one below would fit. Is this the one you bought?
| 309-7030-FG | FRONT GRAY BJ74 SLIP COVERS - Fits 8/86--BJ73/FJ73/BJ74/LX - set includes 2 front bucket seat slip covers. Headrest covers order #309-7025 On Sale - Everyone gets the Discounted Price on this part. |
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- #66
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- #67
Another successful camping trip in the Ocala National Forest. The weather is finally starting to cool down in FL and it’s just so refreshing to have some brisk temperatures.
The caster shims have made a world of a difference. I wish I would have sorted that much sooner.
The caster shims have made a world of a difference. I wish I would have sorted that much sooner.
This is EXACTLY what my 40 needs - can you tell me where you got your shims, shackles and bolts? I am at -3 caster, so I figure I need to go with a set of 4 degree shims to get back to +1.
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- #70
I got the shims and extended center bolts from Valley Hybrids (they aren't listed on their website so call or email them) and the extended U-bolts were from Cruiser Teq.
Amazing 73 dude!
Can you give me the specs on the Nomad wheels & tires you have? I'm new to 73's and am looking @ nomad. I wasn't sure what backspacing etc I would need. It looks like you didn't need spacers? What's the lift on your suspension?
Cheers!
Can you give me the specs on the Nomad wheels & tires you have? I'm new to 73's and am looking @ nomad. I wasn't sure what backspacing etc I would need. It looks like you didn't need spacers? What's the lift on your suspension?
Cheers!
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- #74
I hope you got it sorted and can take advantage of Frontrunner's sales this month!One more question: What roof rack is that? Looks sharp on the 73
*EDIT: I just found you called it out earlier, Frontrunner roof rack
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- #75
I commissioned some work…
New rotors, brake pads, bearings and swivel seals along with some other smalls jobs.
I’ll be picking it up today and taking it on a camping/off road trip this weekend.
I’m really hoping she brakes better now!
New rotors, brake pads, bearings and swivel seals along with some other smalls jobs.
I’ll be picking it up today and taking it on a camping/off road trip this weekend.
I’m really hoping she brakes better now!
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- #77
I did not. I suppose may be I should have....
Why?
Roverdude has the nomad wheels which I read with normal studs does not allow for many threads engaged by lugnut. Others have suggested longer studs to remedy. I am looking at these wheels also, since you are the man OGBeno, any suggestions on sourcing these extended studs when I order the Nomads?
Thanks,
Sean
Sorry for stepping back a bit, but I was catching up on your thread and I wanted to clear something up:
Yes... it most certainly does. Think of it this way:
Let's say that you have zero degrees of caster right now - rather, the kingpin axis points directly downward from the axle/wheel/tire's center of rotation - and let's say that your tires are slightly toed-in at the front; let's call it 1/4" of toe-in. Now, do something extreme: rotate the axle 180°, so the pinion is not just pointing a bit more up or down, but pointing forward. It's ridiculous to imagine, but this is 180° of either positive or negative caster (and it really isn't either one, but bear with me)...and guess what's happened to you toe-in? Answer: it's now reversed. You have 1/4" of toe out. You changed the caster, and with it, the toe.
Now, let's step back to reality. You actually have a couple of degrees of positive caster on your front axle, which creates something of a self-righting torque in your steering; it's the opposite of a negative-caster shopping trolley, which - as we all know from childhood - simply cannot steer itself. If you change that caster, you change the toe measurement as well... it's just not by very much. The question is whether or not "not by very much" is important. Short answer to that pondering: yes, it's important. I've had as little as 1/32" - 0.8mm - be the difference between a good, solid return-to-center and overly-twitchy steering, or between "this feels okay" and "there's a huge dead spot in the steering."
This being said: in most cases - lookin' at you, solid front axles! - toe isn't that sensitive, but caster changes can and do impact it. I've anecdotally found it to be increasingly vital as the wheelbase shortens. Also, the toe setting is the last thing to adjust when making changes in the front end; I like to measure it off the brake rotors with two 36" levels, each of which is marked with a center point, and 1/4" increments to show me where to put the tape in order to mimic actual rolling tire diameters. Works pretty well.
Okay, derail concluded...and thanks for the info on the Frontrunner rack/sale. My bank account hates you, but thanks all the same.
Yes... it most certainly does. Think of it this way:
Let's say that you have zero degrees of caster right now - rather, the kingpin axis points directly downward from the axle/wheel/tire's center of rotation - and let's say that your tires are slightly toed-in at the front; let's call it 1/4" of toe-in. Now, do something extreme: rotate the axle 180°, so the pinion is not just pointing a bit more up or down, but pointing forward. It's ridiculous to imagine, but this is 180° of either positive or negative caster (and it really isn't either one, but bear with me)...and guess what's happened to you toe-in? Answer: it's now reversed. You have 1/4" of toe out. You changed the caster, and with it, the toe.
Now, let's step back to reality. You actually have a couple of degrees of positive caster on your front axle, which creates something of a self-righting torque in your steering; it's the opposite of a negative-caster shopping trolley, which - as we all know from childhood - simply cannot steer itself. If you change that caster, you change the toe measurement as well... it's just not by very much. The question is whether or not "not by very much" is important. Short answer to that pondering: yes, it's important. I've had as little as 1/32" - 0.8mm - be the difference between a good, solid return-to-center and overly-twitchy steering, or between "this feels okay" and "there's a huge dead spot in the steering."
This being said: in most cases - lookin' at you, solid front axles! - toe isn't that sensitive, but caster changes can and do impact it. I've anecdotally found it to be increasingly vital as the wheelbase shortens. Also, the toe setting is the last thing to adjust when making changes in the front end; I like to measure it off the brake rotors with two 36" levels, each of which is marked with a center point, and 1/4" increments to show me where to put the tape in order to mimic actual rolling tire diameters. Works pretty well.
Okay, derail concluded...and thanks for the info on the Frontrunner rack/sale. My bank account hates you, but thanks all the same.
