1993 Specific year concerns

[toyotaspeed90]

Just wondering, from the owners...

Been doing a little research/reading as I have a possible trade/sale of another vehicle for a 1993 that needs some work, but is running driving.

1993 Seems to be the first year of the FZ motor - there concerns specific to it being it's first production year?

I was doing some research elsewhere - and in some ways the 1993 was grouped with the 1991-1992 with respect to braking and handling, and updates really taking place in 1995.

Basically what I'm wondering is - is 1993 an "odd" year of these vehicles where they have a 'little of this' and a 'little of that'? (This concept isn't new to me at all - I've had a lot of Toyotas, especially first Gen MR2's.... where 1987 was a transition year where things started to change but the major changes didn't take place until 1998, yet all still in the same "generation" of first gen MR2's... and I've had 2 1987's that were both great vehicles for me).

Anything particular to this year to look out for?

The rig will need a HG - and I'm already pricing timing chain and water pump alongside of it.... have been told it does run and drive, but hasn't seen much use in a while.

 

[Dazrin]

The one '93 specific issue I have run into was an ECU issue. The early ones have an ECU that is prone to a specific (code 84, 84, 85?) failure and needs to be replaced to correct it when the issue shows up. A new ECU, if you can find one, runs for $1,600 or so. Or you can get one out of a later model with the updated firmware, there is a specific part number to look for that will fix this. I found one at a local junkyard to fix mine for about $150 and saw some on ebay for $150-$250.

The brakes were updated for 93 (with the axles) but I don't know if there were other changes for 95 that improve braking/handling. The 100 series brake pad mod will work with the 93-94 years to improve brake performance too.

Hopefully the guru will show up with his list of 93 specific issues since he has one. Anything I may have stated incorrectly will certainly be trumped by anything Dan has to say.

 

[BlueCruiser84]

As stated some folks have had issues with the ECU. If that happens then one from a 1994 will work.

93s and 94s CAN have semi float rear axles with drum brakes. Dunno if that is better/worse...

Some 93s will have the AC condenser up by the battery rather than dangling down behind the bumper. I forget what this means.

Different dash than 95+.

OBD I so no ultraguage/scanguage capability - I think.

I think you can find a break down in the FAQ or maybe on Slees website.

 

[ToothDr]

Sometime late in 1993 model year Toyota switched from R12 to 134a. Condenser for R12 is located in the engine bay near the battery. For R 134a it's moved behind the fender. Best thing about the 93s is that they have the largest starter offered in any 80 series in the U.S.

 

[zona]

The '93 has acorn shaped nuts, hey, so do I!! Go figure. The '93 has the desirable black fan clutch chingadera. Less smog BS components. Handling and braking are no different if you have the disc brakes all around. The biggest difference in any vehicle is the driver

Zona

 

[Timpanogos Slim]

AC dryer by the battery is desirable if you get an off-road bumper.

93/94 oxygen sensors are unique to those two years and damn expensive BUT check with the dealer to see if there is a recall for yours.

The dash bezel is so long that most of them are cracked behind the steering wheel.

the 95-97 rigs with obd2 have better mpg and you can plug in an ultragauge or scangauge, which is nice, but there's nothing really wrong with 93/94.

 

[Rifleman]

Here's a link to a little web site that may answer most of your questions about the 1993 cruiser. ExpeditionLandCruiserFZJ80FAQ

 

[waterweber]

Biggest risk is that you will rule! 93-94 are the best LC years. NO question.

 

[toyotaspeed90]

Biggest risk is that you will rule! 93-94 are the best LC years. NO question.

We'll see..... I do have an FJ40. The year of it, well, really more depends on the part you're looking/pointing at.

I'll check but I assume it has disc brakes, it's 3x factory locked.... unless that is one of those Toyota factories "install until you run out". I made mention of MR2's and this was a common thing for rear swaybar tabs - 1985 had a rear swaybar, 1986 did not, but the tabs to install came on the 1986 models, and 1987 could have 1 on either side, or both (depending on supplies at the factory).

 

[FZJ80 in KC]

I've got a 93 as well, but have worked on both styles; will try and document all the differences I know of:

• OBDI
• A442F Transmission (which I like better actually...this is the rumored mini bus tranny)
• Switched from R12 to R134 in 4/1994, and our drier is located behind the battery box rather than hanging low down behind the bumper (love this fact)
• Slightly shorter birfields and "skinnier" drive flanges, so when doing the axle rebuild, if replacing with updated birfs, will need 95-97 part number for drive flanges (thicker)
• Dash is rounded, so switches are different on the interior for CDL and such (rounded style)
• Headliner is older style cloth, rather than the fiberboard stiffened style that the 95-97's have (makes it a little tougher to run wires and such overhead)
• ours do not have the adjustable height for the seatbelts (this one bugs me a bit when wheeling...a little too low for my taste)
• If locked, you'll have the full floating rear axle, with disc brakes all around. Some models (non-locked) have semi floating rear with drums
• We have the ECT (electronically controlled transmission) "power" button on the dash for a little more throttle control. 95-97 have the "power" button down by the shifter.
• 95-97 have a "start in second" button also by their "power" button (I do kinda wish we had that feature)
• Front grill is different
• Exhaust setup is a little different style cats and no resonator (at least not on mine) and only o2 sensors before the cat, none after (OBDI not OBDII)
• 93/94 owners tend to be just slightly cooler than others....documented fact...

Hope this helps...will update if I think of anything else...

***edit***

• 93/94 has smaller digital clock but has stopwatch function (useful when timing yourself on the 1/4 mile)
• no extra pullout cupholder that some of the fancy 95-97's have....may be a deal breaker for some...
• As mentioned earlier, acorn style lugnuts so wheels are slightly different too
• To my knowledge, 93/94 came with thicker OD rear lower control arms (but hollow). 95-97 typically have the thinner OD lower control arms. The more recent thinner arms can however be sleeved for additional strength (which I've had done)

 

[toyotaspeed90]

Well I hope it's R134.... I know R12 is better for AC purposes, but given the mileage on the vehicle, my assumption is that AC has either been "converted" to R134 (and usually that isn't really done accurately since 134 really needs larger components to be as effective) or all of the R12 has leaked.... or both, converted and leaked. 134 would be easier to get ahold of and fix...

that info is great! It also points out that there are no "beware of ______________" being that it's a first year of that engine...

Guess in the next 20 hours or so I'll know if I have it or not, and no longer have my IS300

 

[toyotaspeed90]

Well I got it - pretty clean exterior (needs a wash, though) and nice inside (but needs some 'scrubbing' - as in smells like smoke but otherwise clean).

Super sloppy steering, may need birf servicing or new birfs, there is some clicking.
Runs/drives well, I'm not convinced it has a HG problem - thinking of starting with plugs, wires, cap/rotor, and thinking of desmogging (none here - and have read that #6 on the HG tends to go mostly due to EGR system). It does have a jumpy idle and hesitation off idle.
Lockers don't lock - but heard (it was traded with Tor from TorFab) that these "fail" as freezing the motor when never used - simply pull the motor out, spin it, and problem *should* be resolved.

I'll get some photos up soon

 

[DSRTRDR]

the birfs probably need grease

 

[Mighty690]

Check my '93 HG job documentation. I favor the '93 too: particularly the rip-free cool cloth, manual seats, and the low sweeping airbag-free dash. I've got the original ECU and no issues.
Don't look back.

 

[toyotaspeed90]

Mine is leather with electric seats.

I am intrigued by the "rear heat" hi/lo button, considering I can't find any vents/controls for a rear heater....

It has a low/rough idle.... as the story goes - a customer brought it to TorFab because they believed the headgasket went. Unsure what made them think that. Tor somehow got the vehicle for himself with plans of a swap, 2 years later I now have it. Supposedly sat for 2 years and runs/drives pretty damn well, great oil pressure.

Low/rough idle... but plug wires don't look all that new. Plan (to at least start with - as I've already disassembled the AFM and verified there's nothing going on with the flapper door rubbing/scraping) is to start with plugs, wires, cap, rotor and retime - then verify that the TPS is accurate.... then check for vacuum leaks.

It isn't acting like a BHG....

 

[Mighty690]

If there's a hint of HG suspicion, and being a new 80 Series to you, I'd strongly encourage you to save yourself a lot of time/money and send Blackstone an oil sample.

 

[Mighty690]

From Wholesale Automatic Transmissions webpage, Australia:
"I'd like to hear your thoughts on the durability/reliability of Toyota's A442F transmission (used in the US landcruiser from 1993-1994/95) and the A343F that replaced it for 1995-97. Many people have noticed that Toyota only changed the tranny to the A343F in the US, and left the A442F in other countries. Can you speculate as to why this was done (was it cost-saving?) In any case, what is your opinion on each of these trannies? What are the pros and cons of each and, in your opinion, which will hold up longer? Thanks! Vik
Both the A442F and A343F transmissions is capable of holding 450K/W of power when fitted with an Extreme Stage II Blue Print Valve Body. These valve bodies are the direct result of a development program that was introduced for the Extreme Fully Blue Printed Landcruiser transmission range. The valve body is the same unit that was developed for that unit. The Valve Body can be brought separately for $795.00 Australian but is sold as a change over unit with a deposit being charged until the old valve body is returned. I don't know why the A442F was replaced with the A343F but if I was to guess I would say weight ( both dead weight and centrifugal weight ), The smaller 2.7 and 3.4 litre Landcruiser Prado engine's are just to small for the A442F heavy weight. The A442F is much larger than the new design and for this same reason I would say that the older A442F transmissions is a little stronger."

 

[95ToyCruiser]

Mine is leather with electric seats.

I am intrigued by the "rear heat" hi/lo button, considering I can't find any vents/controls for a rear heater....

It has a low/rough idle.... as the story goes - a customer brought it to TorFab because they believed the headgasket went. Unsure what made them think that. Tor somehow got the vehicle for himself with plans of a swap, 2 years later I now have it. Supposedly sat for 2 years and runs/drives pretty damn well, great oil pressure.

Low/rough idle... but plug wires don't look all that new. Plan (to at least start with - as I've already disassembled the AFM and verified there's nothing going on with the flapper door rubbing/scraping) is to start with plugs, wires, cap, rotor and retime - then verify that the TPS is accurate.... then check for vacuum leaks.

It isn't acting like a BHG....

The rear heat is just 2 vents under the center console, there is a separate heater core under the pass seat.

Roughy/ low idle, check the intake tube, they rip and will cause such an issue..check with propane (search before you do if you don't know how!!)...

I have both a 93 and a 95... Couldn't really tell you which one I like better...

The 95 has leather, power seats, keyless entry, ultra gauge...(I'm taking when I'd drive it on the street, it's a wheeling rig now) but I love my 93, it's got more character and is my DD (over 100 mi/day)..

I will say, with just over 200k, my birfs/drive flanges are about shot, and will be upgrading to 95+ soon...

Good luck!!

Welcome to the addiction!!

 

[waterweber]

Let me know if you need any random engine parts. I have a ton of stuff left over from my diesel swap.

 

[toyotaspeed90]

I'm very well versed in (older) Toyota ECU's, especially AFM based pre-cat o2 systems. As I said - I've had a lot of older Toyotas and most of them include modifying things like engines (anyone heard of a 7age?, how about my coined term SW11 - first 5sfe into an AW11 without cutting the chasis mounts), engine swaps, wiring, and customizing ecu's, even....

The AFM tube was my first suspicion - I mentioned above that I pulled the AFM and checked it (including the tube). I also looked to see if there were any electronic controls on the EGR, and other than the diaphragm by the firewall (that I haven't looked at closely) I'm not seeing any electronic components, and could desmog the rig soon. The tube appears to be in good condition and I didn't notice any other vacuum leaks (the reason that's a problem on AFM vehicles - post AFM, is that the AFM monitors air coming in and even keeps the fuel pump running - any leaks post AFM means air is bypassing the AFM and not being properly metered.... which can cause a rough/searching/low idle). However, after re-assembly the low idle went away. I didn't want to say that it had gone away until after I had a little more opportunity to drive it, but it seems to have.

I said I think the trans is an issue - and I still think that or the transfercase is the problem. As an example - I live in an area that has steep hills (steep enough that in a Prius C you can't see the road you're driving up unless you sit way up in your seat) and the speed limit is 15mph. When I turn onto my street and start going up - the cruiser almost doesn't respond to throttle. It will crawl, but almost acting like it has no traction. Something will "shift" and all the sudden it feels like there's traction and it will climb just fine. The other issue it exhibits - is that from a standing start it will act like there's no power from 0-(under) 10mph, shift to 2nd and then take off just fine.

I've ordered the plug wires (nobody locally had them and for the same price as local I could get NGK online via Amazon Prime) and when they get here I'll run a compression test - and if good, throw in the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and re-time it. Then check the trans fluid and plan on changing that if dark or low.

This is meant more as a joke - but it has 291k miles and i'm pretty sure the item that has worn the most is the key... there's almost nothing of it left.

Although covered, there's no tears (passenger nor driver seat):