1989 HDJ74 FRP to FST conversion

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An incredibly captivating, informative, and inspiring thread. This is truly the bible for soft top enthusiasts.
I also decided to create something similar. I managed to find almost all the necessary parts. However, the rails above the door have become an unsolvable challenge for me.

I compared the parts from the soft top and FRP models.
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The difference lies only in two parts: Drip rail 61267-90K01 (available only on the soft top) and the Outer rail (soft top: 61211-90K01, FRP: 61211-90K02).

I would like to ask if it is possible to reuse the FRP model rails for the soft top by adding 5 captive nuts and fabricating a DIY drip rail. Are there any other obstacles?
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Thank you in advance!
 
@Economist LC76 that is exactly what I did. I used 5 rivnuts and did not add a drip rail. To lack of a rail has not been an issue.
 
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Among the parts I couldn’t find was the rear door stopper for the soft top, 67209-60011.
However, the longer standard stopper, 69470-60020, is available. It needs to be cut down manually with a hacksaw and one hole needs to be drilled out. Might be useful for the soft top maniacs
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I absolutely love this thread — it’s a perfect challenge for my project!
Hope it’s okay if I chime in with a small addition.
Strangely enough, the roll bar was never offered for soft top models, so there are no factory nuts on the B-pillar for mounting it. And the rear crossbar can’t be installed properly because of the roll bar interference.
My solution is to first lower the roll bar by 1 inch (by trimming the vertical tube), and only then install captive nuts on the B-pillar for proper mounting.

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I’m getting the soft top ready for Solid Axle Summit this upcoming week, and I figured it might be a good time after only three years to panel bond the fourth piece of the B pillar and install the rollbar. I have no idea what kind of gunk accumulated on The final B pillar piece, but it was bad enough that I had to take it into the house sink and scrub it down with Dawn. I got it clean, scuffed up the mating services with some mild sandpaper, and hit it with 3M panel bonded adhesive. Let’s see if this actually works.

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Since my dome light wire has long since disappeared down the passenger side B pillar, here’s a shot to remind me in the future that there are two channels… One tubed and one free.

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And here we are in 2025. This truck lives outside and the soft top has taken a beating from the Texas sun. The vinyl windows have clouded and I’ve got a tear in the passenger side flap. It’s still my favorite thing I’ve ever done to a cruiser.

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I finally got an M10 nutsert mandrel, and put a couple of anchors into the B pillar. My moderately redneck tape measure and blue tape measurements were within a 16th of an inch either side. With a new set of rollbar pads from @joekatana we are tied together and in business.

Annoyingly, the threads on the M10 rivet nuts are M10x1.5 not 1.25 or 1.75 that our JIS trucks are. So it has to be Advance Auto flange bolts for now.


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Also, I lost one of my nuts along the way. Don’t read into that.

A replacement 94184-61001 is on the way.

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When are you getting to SAS? I will be at 4J RV park 1-4 August and I'd like to see this thing in person. Thx
 

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