Where did you send your pump and injectors?
Builds 1988 BJ74 “Number 1” (10 Viewers)
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FJBen
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- #1,122
I sent my pump and injectors to Diesel Engine Repair | Diesel Fuel Injection | Portland, Oregon - https://www.dfispdx.com out of Portland. I read a few good reviews on here decided to try them. They rebuilt my IP and were able to clean the injectors. Very helpful afterwards as well.
FJBen
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- #1,123
After a few mixups on the clutch master, @cruiseroutfit got me all sorted out. Just took a few days longer to get, which is no big deal and their customer support is great so no complaints from me at all. Just 
On the left is the original. Middle is the correct replacement, and the right was the incorrect one. The only mods needed are bending the line to fit the clutch on the side instead of the top, and forgoing the heat shield or tapping the front with a smaller screw. I chose to forgo at this point. Pretty easy to replace, bleed and then adjust. I may adjust the pedal a little more, it's letting out closer to floor, I might let it out a little more.
It was 63 degrees when I fixed it this weekend. This morning....
that wind chill was no joke this morning. Cruiser started pretty easy considering. The only "new" issue popping up is when it's cold and you turn the key. There is a pause before it engages the starter. Like a second or 2. I have a sneaking suspicion it's a grounding issue, that it also leading to wimpy wipers and the mist function being really hit or miss. When it warms back up next week, I plan on cleaning and checking grounds.
And of course shameless photo in the frigid cold.
On the left is the original. Middle is the correct replacement, and the right was the incorrect one. The only mods needed are bending the line to fit the clutch on the side instead of the top, and forgoing the heat shield or tapping the front with a smaller screw. I chose to forgo at this point. Pretty easy to replace, bleed and then adjust. I may adjust the pedal a little more, it's letting out closer to floor, I might let it out a little more.
It was 63 degrees when I fixed it this weekend. This morning....
that wind chill was no joke this morning. Cruiser started pretty easy considering. The only "new" issue popping up is when it's cold and you turn the key. There is a pause before it engages the starter. Like a second or 2. I have a sneaking suspicion it's a grounding issue, that it also leading to wimpy wipers and the mist function being really hit or miss. When it warms back up next week, I plan on cleaning and checking grounds.
And of course shameless photo in the frigid cold.
FJBen
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #1,124
Looking at getting some new tires in the next few months. I have 28,000 on these tires and there is still tread, but I like to keep my tires a little more treaded than that. I really like the Geolanders, they have been an excellent tire. My only complaint is that the 255/85r16 is a little narrow and that it looks a little small on my rig sometimes. Especially with the flares when you look from the front/rear.
There are a couple of 35x10.50 or 34x11 tires out there and that seems like a good size as well. Yokohama Geolanders come in a 285/75r17. Thats basically a 34.1x11.2x17 according to them.
The problem is that it requires me to get different rims, and I'm pretty picky (and cheap) to find the good ones.
I actually liked this more than I thought I would. These are the 17" steelies. They would require a spacer...and holy cow did prices goes up since I purchased my Yoko's.
bad photoshop attempt
There are a couple of 35x10.50 or 34x11 tires out there and that seems like a good size as well. Yokohama Geolanders come in a 285/75r17. Thats basically a 34.1x11.2x17 according to them.
The problem is that it requires me to get different rims, and I'm pretty picky (and cheap) to find the good ones.
I actually liked this more than I thought I would. These are the 17" steelies. They would require a spacer...and holy cow did prices goes up since I purchased my Yoko's. bad photoshop attempt
Have you looked at the Toyo RT’s?Looking at getting some new tires in the next few months. I have 28,000 on these tires and there is still tread, but I like to keep my tires a little more treaded than that. I really like the Geolanders, they have been an excellent tire. My only complaint is that the 255/85r16 is a little narrow and that it looks a little small on my rig sometimes. Especially with the flares when you look from the front/rear.
There are a couple of 35x10.50 or 34x11 tires out there and that seems like a good size as well. Yokohama Geolanders come in a 285/75r17. Thats basically a 34.1x11.2x17 according to them.
The problem is that it requires me to get different rims, and I'm pretty picky (and cheap) to find the good ones.
bad photoshop attempt
View attachment 2934814
Looks like the confusion was non-boosted vs. boosted clutch. 7x's are a bag of fun when it comes to the many, many configurations they could have. Sorry for the mixup but glad to hear we were able to get it sorted!
How much of a lift are you using now? If not more than 2” how about 235/85/16? That’s what I use now. Thinking of 255/85/16 when it’s time to replace. Of course I don’t have any fender flares, so….
FJBen
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- Thread starter
- #1,131
I suppose it was bound to happen again. I come outside to my cruiser and my old friend sitting right underneath. That small .50 cent size puddle under the middle of my rig. Let me make sure it's actually coming from mine. Smell test...yep 90wt.
Ok, so let think, why did this just start again. I was just under there bleeding the clutch no leaks...however, that one day I did come out and a Land Rover parked next to me!!!
I think my cruiser got "Rovid19". Sometimes contagious from parking next to Land Rovers. The tell tale signs. Mild symptoms include blown bulbs, intermittent wipers on every setting, buttons on dash that do nothing, a propensity for the driver to say "alu-min-e-um" and the most obvious symptom oil leaks.
So now I'm deep in contemplation on what to do again.
Cheapest: Pull the tranny/tcase AGAIN, replace the seal and hope it lasts another 13,000 miles like last time. Also the fastest method. Last time I had the tranny down in an hour so barring any other issues, 1/2 day project.
H55F rebuild: going to take longer for sure. Will have to buy another vehicle as we are down to 3 usable with 3 drivers at the moment in 3 different directions. I still have to find a B series H55f input shaft that doesn't exist new anymore. Plus rebuild a t-case I just did 13,000 miles ago. I could potentially have a shop repair and spray weld the input shaft, hopefully they wouldn't screw it up. I would probably be down for a few weeks at minimum.
H55F NEW with adapter plate. By far the most expensive. We are looking at $3000 just for the tranny. Plus adapter plate, plus driveline mods. Thats a nuclear option.
I still haven't found a better or off-set seal. I will keep going down this rabbit hole again for find a seal and see if I need to replace the speedi-sleeve.
Ok, so let think, why did this just start again. I was just under there bleeding the clutch no leaks...however, that one day I did come out and a Land Rover parked next to me!!!
I think my cruiser got "Rovid19". Sometimes contagious from parking next to Land Rovers. The tell tale signs. Mild symptoms include blown bulbs, intermittent wipers on every setting, buttons on dash that do nothing, a propensity for the driver to say "alu-min-e-um" and the most obvious symptom oil leaks.
So now I'm deep in contemplation on what to do again.
Cheapest: Pull the tranny/tcase AGAIN, replace the seal and hope it lasts another 13,000 miles like last time. Also the fastest method. Last time I had the tranny down in an hour so barring any other issues, 1/2 day project.
H55F rebuild: going to take longer for sure. Will have to buy another vehicle as we are down to 3 usable with 3 drivers at the moment in 3 different directions. I still have to find a B series H55f input shaft that doesn't exist new anymore. Plus rebuild a t-case I just did 13,000 miles ago. I could potentially have a shop repair and spray weld the input shaft, hopefully they wouldn't screw it up. I would probably be down for a few weeks at minimum.
H55F NEW with adapter plate. By far the most expensive. We are looking at $3000 just for the tranny. Plus adapter plate, plus driveline mods. Thats a nuclear option.
I still haven't found a better or off-set seal. I will keep going down this rabbit hole again for find a seal and see if I need to replace the speedi-sleeve.
Although the symptoms of “Rovid19” may linger for years, there is light at the end of the tunnel. Initially the smell of “gear oil” will cause headaches and possibly a sore throat but these symptoms will fade over time and no, wearing a mask will not help. Leave a pair of shoes near the back door so you don’t track oil into the house. (It may not seem like a big deal but that’s how Rovid19 spreads). As a previous owner of 4 Land Rovers I’m seen as somewhat of an expert in this field so feel free to reach out if you need more info.
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FJBen
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- Thread starter
- #1,133
Engineering folk might like this. Might interest some H55F users, hopefully it will fix mine.
Most might find it boring so I've attached a coloring sheet of a double cab you can print off color it.
Remember don't eat the crayons and only draw on the paper.
So in order to find different options for fixing my H55F leak, I started researching the different seal brands. NOK I believe is the OEM supplier. Could be wrong here as well.
The NOK seal was too tight with the speedi sleeve. The Harwal seemed to fit decent but has failed. There are some other brands I looked up that seem to fit, although I've never heard of them. I decided to try and find the SKF brand as I've heard good things about them. It appears they have a couple different avenues that might work for this application. I looked and researched WAY more that I wanted to know about seals. WAY too much.
Aktiebolaget Svenska Kullagerfabriken founded on 16 February 1907.
Sven Wingquist, inventor of the double-row self-aligning ball bearing, was one of the founding members and the first Managing Director.
1909 a subsidiary SKF started in US in 1909.
In 1990, SKF acquired CR Seals, Chicago Rawhide. CR Seals patented the "Perfect Oil Seal" in 1928. (insert @Gun Runner 5 or @cruiserdan age joke here).
That seal was made of leather. I didn't know the old seals were made of leather, however I never thought of it either...
anywho...new tech in radial seal design:
\The sealing lips of SKF radial shaft seals are manufactured from several materials and two different main designs. For detailed information, refer to the section Sealing lip materials. There are two main sealing lip designs that differ in the execution of the sealing lip edge. The “conventional” sealing lip (fig 2) has a straight edge,
whereas the SKF WAVE lips (fig 3) are moulded with a hydrodynamic feature that results in the lip taking a sinusoidal path on its counterface surface.
SKF WAVE seals represent one of the most important developments in radial shaft seals. The sealing lip is moulded to a special form, producing a relative movement on the counterface, imparting hydrodynamic properties. SKF WAVE seals are suitable for rotation in both directions. They pump the lubricant back into the bearing arrangement and expel contaminants. The sinusoidal form of the sealing lip considerably extends the path (fig 4) on the counterface surface and at the same time reduces the specific surface pressure at the sealing lip/counterface contact.
As a consequence, SKF WAVE seals produce up to 20% less friction (diagram 1) resulting in up to 30% lower temperatures (diagram 2) than conventional lip designs. Reduced friction and the sinusoidal path of the sealing lips help prevent the formation of deep tracks in the counterface, resulting in significantly extended service life. SKF WAVE seals are recommended where demands for operational reliability and long service life for machines and equipment are high.
Market speak? CHECK! does it work, I sure hope so. It appears a few companies use technology but SKF is the one I could find that had the right size.
The sinusoidal pattern, present in this sort of seals, support wet-running applications in various machines. While the shaft of the seal rotates, every point of the sealing lip coats a different place of shaft repeatedly and moistens it with the medium. This, as a result, lowers temperature rise and friction at the sealing place. Even the wave-like pattern of the contact path offers self-cleaning advantage. If any small dirt particle comes under the sealing lip, they are quickly removed from the contact area. It reduces the chance of tearing down and expands operating life of the equipment
There...you either had a small learning experience or you got to color....
Most might find it boring so I've attached a coloring sheet of a double cab you can print off color it.
Remember don't eat the crayons and only draw on the paper.
So in order to find different options for fixing my H55F leak, I started researching the different seal brands. NOK I believe is the OEM supplier. Could be wrong here as well.
The NOK seal was too tight with the speedi sleeve. The Harwal seemed to fit decent but has failed. There are some other brands I looked up that seem to fit, although I've never heard of them. I decided to try and find the SKF brand as I've heard good things about them. It appears they have a couple different avenues that might work for this application. I looked and researched WAY more that I wanted to know about seals. WAY too much.
Aktiebolaget Svenska Kullagerfabriken founded on 16 February 1907.
Sven Wingquist, inventor of the double-row self-aligning ball bearing, was one of the founding members and the first Managing Director.
1909 a subsidiary SKF started in US in 1909.
In 1990, SKF acquired CR Seals, Chicago Rawhide. CR Seals patented the "Perfect Oil Seal" in 1928. (insert @Gun Runner 5 or @cruiserdan age joke here).
That seal was made of leather. I didn't know the old seals were made of leather, however I never thought of it either...
anywho...new tech in radial seal design:
\The sealing lips of SKF radial shaft seals are manufactured from several materials and two different main designs. For detailed information, refer to the section Sealing lip materials. There are two main sealing lip designs that differ in the execution of the sealing lip edge. The “conventional” sealing lip (fig 2) has a straight edge,
whereas the SKF WAVE lips (fig 3) are moulded with a hydrodynamic feature that results in the lip taking a sinusoidal path on its counterface surface.
SKF WAVE seals represent one of the most important developments in radial shaft seals. The sealing lip is moulded to a special form, producing a relative movement on the counterface, imparting hydrodynamic properties. SKF WAVE seals are suitable for rotation in both directions. They pump the lubricant back into the bearing arrangement and expel contaminants. The sinusoidal form of the sealing lip considerably extends the path (fig 4) on the counterface surface and at the same time reduces the specific surface pressure at the sealing lip/counterface contact.
As a consequence, SKF WAVE seals produce up to 20% less friction (diagram 1) resulting in up to 30% lower temperatures (diagram 2) than conventional lip designs. Reduced friction and the sinusoidal path of the sealing lips help prevent the formation of deep tracks in the counterface, resulting in significantly extended service life. SKF WAVE seals are recommended where demands for operational reliability and long service life for machines and equipment are high.
Market speak? CHECK! does it work, I sure hope so. It appears a few companies use technology but SKF is the one I could find that had the right size.
The sinusoidal pattern, present in this sort of seals, support wet-running applications in various machines. While the shaft of the seal rotates, every point of the sealing lip coats a different place of shaft repeatedly and moistens it with the medium. This, as a result, lowers temperature rise and friction at the sealing place. Even the wave-like pattern of the contact path offers self-cleaning advantage. If any small dirt particle comes under the sealing lip, they are quickly removed from the contact area. It reduces the chance of tearing down and expands operating life of the equipment
There...you either had a small learning experience or you got to color....
That is really cool!
FJBen
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #1,135
LED upgrade. My poor marker lights looked like birthday candles in terms of light, and 1 was burned out. I wasn't really looking for the cool white look, but whatever.
I also upgraded the front turn signals as well. Since I have the ARB lights and the tail lights still incandescent, I don't have the hyper flash problem yet.
I also upgraded the front turn signals as well. Since I have the ARB lights and the tail lights still incandescent, I don't have the hyper flash problem yet.
I’m still trying to figure out what’s wrong with eating the crayons,
I’m still trying to figure what’s wrong with eating the crayons,
They'll stain...............nevermind.
I was insulted for a couple of minutes but after that I couldn’t remember why I was insulted.Charles may miss this reference so I'll answer on behalf of both of us:
I was insulted for a couple of minutes but after that I couldn’t remember why I was insulted.
Hello Charles,
If you cannot remember it, then it cannot bother/hurt you.
Just saying...
Juan
