1987 FJ60 build

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More fun! I guess the added heat was too much for the starter solenoid, I yanked the starter and replaced the solenoid, returned my Advance Auto parts Gold battery under warranty, got a silver in exchange (grrrr!!! Stupid store!)

Now it's leaking from my front axle pinion seal. Gt one on order and will change it when I get it.

Some pics when I change it. I am searching for a TBI parts car to get rid of my carb. Only for fun, it kicks over every time
 
you'll need a fabbed up fan shroud, especially now that a/c is operational. It makes a big difference in cooling and in the air flow across the a/c condenser, which means cooler air from the a/c.
 
It's been in the high 90's and the engine sits around195 with the a/c running, and it cools just fine. I have a new radiator, 185 degree thermostat and new water pump, so things are optimal. I may rethink that with some off road stuff when I am not moving so much.
 
damn I wish you had told me, I think I have an extra one I would have given you
 
I think they're normal screws, but I don't have those. Home Depot or ACME :)
 
rear bumper 1.webp rear bumper 2.webp tail light lens.webp FJ62 mirror.webp

Mounted my genuine imitation FJ62 mirrors. Love it, I can see behind me now.

My girlfriend told me I had no tail lights. They worked, but the inside of the lens was filthy, so I took them apart, cleaned them, and then put in new bulbs.

Started my rear bumper build. Made some sparks today, tacked the rear bumper to the arms I made from 1X3 steel bar stock.

More to come, as I plan to mount the rear tire and high lift our there, too.
 
rear bumper closed back.webp rear bumper open.webp rear bumper side view.webp rear bumper closed side.webp

Rear bumper build cruiser porn! Adults only!!!

I tacked up the rest of my bumper and tire carrier.

Still have to mount the oil lite bushing in the hinge part, add a tag mount and light, make a plate with some wheel studs to hold the spare and make a high lift jack mount on the tire carrier.

I should have decent visibility out the rear window, from what I measured.rear bumper side view.webprear bumper open.webprear bumper closed back.webp
 
IMG_1538.webp View attachment 938835 IMG_1536.webp IMG_1535.webp Found a guy who welds for money, and gave him $50 for the welds in the thick material.

Ground everything down, then took a flap disc to it for a long while.

I put a piece of pipe with an oil lite bushing in the swing arm of the tire carrier, and used a Grade 8 3/4 dia bolt as my pivot.

I cut off a 1/2 dia muffler clamp and used it to make the latch part. I welded a nut to the bottom and just thread the latch into the nut, through the swing arm.

I used wheel studs to hold the spare to the carrier, (obvious choice), and to hold the hi lift to the back of the carrier, (not so obvious). I will always have a lug wrench with me to take things off, so that seemed like a good idea to me.

I covered everything with primer, then with rustoleum, two coats.

Mounted to the frame with 3/8-18 grade 8 bolts.

Hung the spare and jack, and took some pictures. It seems very sturdy.

The rear window is pretty unobstructed, I am happy about that.
IMG_1538.webp

IMG_1533.webp
 
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John, I am researching my AC install. Don't know too much about it, but I know with knowledge of the model of operation, and some pointers
I will get it.

I don't have it now, but will get a Sandberg 508 compressor and put it on the driver's side.
I need to find a "dryer" for it and hose connections between the Toyota and the Sandberg.
And O rings. Where does one get those?

Hints, directions, pointers and shrugs would be appreciated. Since it started snowing today, won't need
for several months, but I like to plan ahead.

I need to post of pic of the snow on the rig in the next day or two, so people can compare what difference
3 days make in weather up here. Last Sat, Monday and Tuesday were great working weather. Not so
much today nor this coming Saturday when I get some time again.

Next major event coming up will be exhaust installation on Monday

dougbert
 
Doug
I used a compressor from a mid 90's Tahoe, mounts on the drivers side.
I used the hose from a Tahoe, with the muffler in it, and had the ends that fit the Toyota fittings on the condenser and evaporator put on it at a local hydraulic hose shop.
I used the stock wire to the a/c clutch to trigger a relay, which runs power from the battery, through a fuse to the clutch.
I used the stock tachometer in the dash, since it also sends some signal through some voodoo electrical magic to the a/c amplifier, (on the heater box, passenger side, inside where your passenger's feet go), that allows the a/c clutch to get power.
The stuff under the dash stayed stock, and works just fine.
I pulled a vacuum in the system, made sure it was sealed, and charged it with just under a can of Freon.
Blows cold, I ended up adding the rest of the can a few days later.
There are more details and pics in my thread, post #119 and #120

IMG_1320.webp
 
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Started working on the rust holes in the driver's side floor. I found out it was much worse than I thought, once I started grinding back to good steel.

I made a patch piece and worked on tacking it in place. Wasn't easy to make the patch piece mate up to the curvy floor, I got it pretty close.

The welding isn't going too well. I burnt through the floor material a few times, and couldn't get the weld bead to follow the wire. I had the speed turned down very slowly, still too hot.

More tomorrow......
drivers floor hole.webp
drivers floor patch.webp
 
That kind of rot is pretty intimidating. I've got a project truck where the whole body looks like that floor.
its been a project truck for 15 years now haha.
Maybe one year I will find enough time to have a go at it
 
My tribute to Seurat:floor 1.webp floor2.webp

I got some time to finish the welding on the floor. I searched u tube, and it seems like the best way to go without blowing through the floor material is to just weld a dot in one place, then a dot in another place, and so on, until the seam is filled. I did that for quite a while, and filled it in pretty well.

There were still some light holes I could see from underneath, so I mixed up some JB Weld and filled in the holes. I now have a solid floor!

Pics are of after the welding was done, before the JB Weld. I will post the after JB Weld and paint this weekend.
 
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