1984 FJ60 distributor

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Joined
May 10, 2024
Threads
6
Messages
68
Location
Salt Lake City
Hello,
Can anyone point me in the direction of an OEM distributor that won't cost me my first born child?

I definitely want to contact JimC about rebuilding the one I have but I need another to run whilst I wait as I hear the rebuilding takes some time.

Also can anyone confirm that Jim C is still in the business of such things?

Thanks!
 
You’ll be extremely lucky if you find a used original electronic distributor for sale.

If you want a spare or a backup, the best option is to get a new Toyota points distributor. It uses points instead of an electronic pickup but it’s compatible with your engine. Lots of guys have used it.

 
Far as anyone knows he is.

Post a wanted ad in the classified section and make sure you get one with a working vacuum advancer.

Price will depend on condition

Www.TLCPerformance.com
 
I definitely want to contact JimC about rebuilding the one I have but I need another to run whilst I wait as I hear the rebuilding takes some time.
You can do an awful lot of work on your own dizzy in a day or over a weekend. They are not hard to work on once you figure them out. I think it was @4Cruisers who sold me a new vacuum advance module, I think he has new bearings and such as well. I found a spring kit at my FLAPS, followed the included instructions for my own shadetree recurve.
Not wanting to step on any toes, especially a Guru's, but don't be afraid to work on your own rig. You can rebuild your own carb too.

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No vacuum advance and the internals look different
 
That appears to be a 3FE (fuel injected) distributor.... I may be wrong though.
Curious on this topic as I also am searching for a distributor solution.
I found some optical reluctor conversion bull**** in my unit, connected to a relic of an electronic box of wizardry that apparently is for a motorcycle!
 
That appears to be a 3FE (fuel injected) distributor.... I may be wrong though.
Curious on this topic as I also am searching for a distributor solution.
I found some optical reluctor conversion bull**** in my unit, connected to a relic of an electronic box of wizardry that apparently is for a motorcycle!
That's pretty cool actually, the ingenuity of it at least
 
You’ll be extremely lucky if you find a used original electronic distributor for sale.

If you want a spare or a backup, the best option is to get a new Toyota points distributor. It uses points instead of an electronic pickup but it’s compatible with your engine. Lots of guys have used it.

Is that what they call a "small cap" distributor for the 2f?
 
You can do an awful lot of work on your own dizzy in a day or over a weekend. They are not hard to work on once you figure them out. I think it was @4Cruisers who sold me a new vacuum advance module, I think he has new bearings and such as well. I found a spring kit at my FLAPS, followed the included instructions for my own shadetree recurve.
Not wanting to step on any toes, especially a Guru's, but don't be afraid to work on your own rig. You can rebuild your own carb too.

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Hey Pighead, I remember an old post from Mr. Chenoweth that references the DIY MSD spring recurve. He actually tested it and plotted it on a graph with the stock US distributor curve and one that he recurved. I remember the MSD springs appeared to actually retard the timing for a bit through the middle of the rpm range.

So, all that being said, perhaps you have different tricks that you’re using. Any info or thoughts would be interesting to hear.
 
The one that CR lists, the 61180, is a mid-cap dissy. The 61080 with adjustable octane selector is a small cap.
 
The one that CR lists, the 61180, is a mid-cap dissy. The 61080 with adjustable octane selector is a small cap.
How does the octane adjustment actually work?
 
Advances or retards timing a few degrees by rotating the base plate the points sit on.
 
How does the octane adjustment actually work?
Check out my Posts #26 and #27 here:

 
If you want a spare or a backup, the best option is to get a new Toyota points distributor. It uses points instead of an electronic pickup but it’s compatible with your engine.
I've converted several of the 19100-61180 points distributors to Toyota electronic ignition, using good used FJ60 cams, new Toyota 4M distributor breaker plates (modified), and both used and new aftermarket signal generators. I still have parts available to convert more. It plugs right into the stock igniter. Here's a thread with details, specifically Post #19:

 
@4Cruisers Your work is art. Are you still doing these modifications? If so let’s talk outside of this thread.
 
Hey Pighead, I remember an old post from Mr. Chenoweth that references the DIY MSD spring recurve. He actually tested it and plotted it on a graph with the stock US distributor curve and one that he recurved. I remember the MSD springs appeared to actually retard the timing for a bit through the middle of the rpm range.

So, all that being said, perhaps you have different tricks that you’re using. Any info or thoughts would be interesting to hear.
It seems that the only different trick I have is blissful ignorance due to my poor search ability. I was not able to find that thread, or that post by @FJ40Jim prior to my attempt at the shadetree recurve. Had I found it, I may have saved myself the 20 bucks it cost for the spring kit. But I did buy it and then even read the enclosed directions (!). Picked 2 of the lighter springs that somebody, somewhere thought would give a full advance of some dizzy with some weights at about 3500 RPM. Because that's about where I usually shift. I was not expecting to get it right the first time. It seemed to work so I called it a day. I wish that there was an easy correct answer for exactly what springs I really want but I'm used to not knowing what I'm doing.
And; my engine is really not stock and is really, really de-smogged. Since my recent valve job (LS valves) and headwork (fairly extensive port matching and polishing) I have been advancing my timing slowly trying to figure out just how much base advance to use. I'm at 36* BTDC right now, which makes me nervous, the engine seems like it wants more. I haven't been able to get it to ping even if I try really hard and my manifold vacuum keeps increasing.
I don't know if the MSD springs are retarding my timing and the base timing increase is covering it up or the new vac advance module is affecting it or what. My seat of pants is not that sensitive. I would love a definitive answer, realize that there probably is not one for this engine in this setting.
The MSD springs did not kill my engine, it's feeling better.

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