Can you identify this FJ40 Coil/Electronic Ignition?

[Ackcruisers]

They were off when they installed the dizzy

They etched the side because they made du with what they did wrong

It’s the type of thing POs do ... it’s in the PO Manual ... Chapter 2 (Get it to run if you can) in that chapter the Manual says “what ever you do, fix it much later or be ok with your half arse results”

That’s funny. The PO manual also says wire It in such a way that will make it impossible for anyone to decipher; including the PO.

 

[Ackcruisers]

No choke button on the dash? There is no cable on the carb?

I also broke a distributor clamp screw. Get a new clamp, they come with a screw and square captive nut.

The choke that came with this Colombian import flip was some cheap aftermarket that didn’t even work. I removed it and will be installing the OEM version when I get my ‘76 wiring harness back from being cleaned and load tested.

I’m not seeing the broken distributor cap screw...

 

[Dizzy]

The distributor clamp on the block that holds the distributor, that screw which holds the distributor came with a square nut, not hexagonal like yours, that stays put on the clamp, on my two '75 2Fs, and the replacement one from City Racer. I suspect that the Toyota screw is garbage after 40 years of service, and, it was a rather unpleasant surprise when mine broke the other day.

 

[TWatson]

Got very similar images on the Porter Instructions attached below. I had one new in the box. Was going to clean them up, retype them and run them through google translate but thought I’d send along the raw photos. Sorry for the angle, shot down into the box instead of ripping it open to lay flat.

 

[4Cruisers]

@Dizzy, the non USA coil part number for my 76, 2F is 19500 as shown in the image below. It appears the coil replacement they used matches #19500 here: FJ40 IGNITION COIL, UP TO 7412. It’s a gel high output up to 7412 coil. (I’m not sure what the numbers 7412 mean?).

7412 is December 1974. Likewise, 7501 is January 1975.

 

[4Cruisers]

Here's where your octane selector adjustment should be, pretty much the "neutral" position:

 

[4Cruisers]

 

[Ackcruisers]

Got very similar images on the Porter Instructions attached below. I had one new in the box. Was going to clean them up, retype them and run them through google translate but thought I’d send along the raw photos. Sorry for the angle, shot down into the box instead of ripping it open to lay flat. View attachment 2169705View attachment 2169706View attachment 2169707View attachment 2169708

Thanks for taking the time to post this.

 

[Dizzy]

R=red, W=white, L=light purple (blue in harness), G=green, Y=yellow, B=black, O=orange
first letter is main color, second is stripe; RH is right-hand, etc.

 

[Ackcruisers]

Just finished reading Hayes Chapter 4 section 5 - ‘Distributor Removed and Installation’ @JohnnyC . if I’m going to redrop the dizzy after rotating it counter clockwise, it appears I would need to completely reset the timing.

 

[Dizzy]

Take careful note of how deep the distributor is seated now. Take a photo of the clamping depth before removal. The tang of the dissy does not go far into the oil pump.

I initially did an installation with the clamp off so I could see the level of engagement, then I did it for real with the clamp loose on both clamp bolt, and engine block screw. Then I tightened the block screw, and lightly seated the distributor clamp.

#1 top-dead-center is when you can see the piston thru the spark plug hole, and the valves both have clearance; #6 Top-dead-center also occurs at the flywheel line, but it isn't the one that you want. The #1 piston will be visible thru the spark plug hole.

Here is how my distributor is currently seated (below).

The helical cut on the cam gear is about a 15 degree turn, and therefore the oil pump tang. It is like shooting an arrow with knowledge of wind direction.

The cam will always drive the distributor rotor to get spark, but running the oil pump below is dependent on correct distributor installation.

 

[Dizzy]

Some photos.

Notice how the #1 and #6 wires are kinda reaching from the far side, it isn't as clean as the OE retard distributor, but the octane selector gets its clearance.

 

[Ackcruisers]

Thanks for this @Dizzy. Very useful. As you can see in this video my vacuum advancer is slipping out as there is nothing to hold it in place. The PO just decided to remove the octane adjustment mechanism off to get distributor in the awkward position. I will be ordering a new distributor or at the very least, finding new octane adjusting dial. Also will is tall new clamp.

If I understand your recommendation, the following is the process.

1/Find TDC of cylinder #1. This is achieved by looking inside spark plug hole to see position in the top “closed” position. Turnover engine until TDC is achieved.

2/Once TDC is identified, make note of seated depth of dizzy - important as too deep will impact function of oil pump.

3/Remove distributor cap and disconnect Porter CDI wires. Make note and mark position of the rotor before removing. It should be pointing at cylinder #1. (The firing order is clockwise 1,5,3,6,2,4). The cap wires need to be routed this way with install.

4/loosen clamp and pull dizzy out and spin counterclockwise so the advancer is now on left as in your photos.

5/ install new octane dial and dizzy clamp.

6/drop dizzy back in making note of depth and the advance as the gears sync a few degrees of angle?

7/tighten clamp install distributor cap with wires attached to the correct firing order (clockwise from #1 cylinder) 1,5,3,6,2,4

 

[Dizzy]

#2: The oil pump just barely engages with the distributor. Therefore, it is easy to not go deep enough.

#3: Remove distributor. Position distributor housing where you want it. The housing defines where number 1 is on the cap, turn the rotor to point at number 1. The new cap has numbers assigned on the plug wires. Using a long narrow slotted screwdriver turn the oil pump's slot to match your new location of housing and rotor.

After that, loosen the clamp screws (but, I did a trial without the clamp to make sure that the O-ring on the distributor is not visible, then I did it for real with the clamp, obscuring the view of the O-ring on its way in. You can't actually do anything without installing the clamp first, other than feeling out how to seat it in the oil pump.

Turn the rotor of the distributor 30 degrees (I said 15 degrees earlier, but I was going from memory, not the manual) counter-clockwise to number 1 on the cap.

Insert the distributor watching the rotor turn 30 clockwise as the distributor is being inserted against the camshaft gear, if the gears mesh about correct, then the tang of the distributor will go into the oil pump slot, if it doesn't, then the oil pump gets no spin from the distributor, the distributor will sit high, and you will have no oil pressure.

Make sure that the rotor is pointing to number 1 on the cap.

Make sure that the distributor is seated deeply enough.

Tighten the clamp on the block, and loosely on the distributor-so that you can precisely time the motor to the ball on the flywheel, and check for oil pressure, immediately.

 

[Dizzy]

The vacuum advancer diaphragm is just missing a screw.

 

[4Cruisers]

The vacuum advancer diaphragm is just missing a screw.

It's a 5mm machine screw IIRC, screws into the distributor housing just behind the vacuum canister to housing mating surface.

 

[Ackcruisers]

Thanks @Dizzy and @4Cruisers much appreciated. I’ve ordered parts for the octane advancer etc... Will be tackling the repositioning of the dizzy as soon as parts arrive.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Thanks @Dizzy and @4Cruisers much appreciated. I’ve ordered parts for the octane advancer etc... Will be tackling the repositioning of the dizzy as soon as parts arrive.

@4Cruisers stocks alot of what you need as well...........



, Support your Fellow Members when u can , Especially when it's there area Of Self taught Expertise .........

@4Cruisers is My personal Points Dizzy go to guy , for parts and beyond ..

just my :

 

[4Cruisers]

Thanks @Dizzy and @4Cruisers much appreciated. I’ve ordered parts for the octane advancer etc... Will be tackling the repositioning of the dizzy as soon as parts arrive.

Update?

BTW, when you install the missing machine screw that holds the advancer in place make sure the advancer actuator moves freely when vacuum is applied to the port on the canister. If you use too long of a screw it can contact the actuator rod and keep it from moving.

 

[Ackcruisers]

Thanks for the additional insight. Much appreciated. I’ve not had a chance to tackle the repositioning of the distributor yet. I’m working on swapping out the exiting wiring harness with a 1976 US harness. My plan is to get everything running with new harness installed and then tackle dizzy. The parts I’m using are below. I have no idea why they installed the dizzy this way. The image below is how it was installed as soon as it was lifted and put into the truck.